zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
And now it begins.....
rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1
- Thread starter rattle_snake
- Start date
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nitrous...
ntsqd
Well-known member
For handling I'd have a look at using stuff like GM A or G body front suspension, with say 70's Impala spindles. Off the shelf 12" front rotors and lots of cool roundy racing suspension parts that should work with those spindles. I *think* that stuff will bolt to a fabricated roundy racer Camaro type front steer front sub-frame. I've pondered this sort of thing, but have not done the deep dive to sort it all out.
Could go with the "truck trailing arm" rear design. Simple, works well (enough), and has parts available, again, from most roundy racing vendors. The big parts should be simple enough to fabricate.
Some of the vendors:
AFCO (now owned by Speedway Motors)
Lefthander Racing
Behrents
Bonus points if you opt to go Wide 5 wheels and hubs.
Could go with the "truck trailing arm" rear design. Simple, works well (enough), and has parts available, again, from most roundy racing vendors. The big parts should be simple enough to fabricate.
Some of the vendors:
AFCO (now owned by Speedway Motors)
Lefthander Racing
Behrents
Bonus points if you opt to go Wide 5 wheels and hubs.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
ntsqd
Well-known member
I know that you're poking fun, but the truck front suspension stuff ain't the same - nowhere near as good, and it doesn't just bolt on the good parts.
Besides, the 'formula' that I just laid out is more or less what is under every (Winston) Cup car since sometime in the 70's.
Actually, could probably find used Cup car parts on that used race car parts page.
Besides, the 'formula' that I just laid out is more or less what is under every (Winston) Cup car since sometime in the 70's.
Actually, could probably find used Cup car parts on that used race car parts page.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Absolutely poking fun(mostly), haha!
The rear suspension that we see on NASCARs does have its history rooted in GM pickups, however.
ntsqd
Well-known member
In the early days they just used the OEM truck trailing arm parts. Now it's all custom I'm sure.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
Last week I was driving home from Texas; after 800mi I pulled into a QT in Tucson to get a few gallons of diesel to make it all the way home. I navigate my 40' trailer through the gas station to find the only diesel pump being occupied by a crack head on a bicycle filling a gallon water jug with gas......
Looking forward to the build!
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
C'mon, Ryan. We know the real reason you chose Quik Trip was for their outstanding selection of roller food...
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
In full disclosure you're 100% right; I hit another QT further north and got 2 hot dogs!
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you put ketchup on them I am going to have to put you on the ignore list.
Sorry, man, but you know the rule.
ntsqd
Well-known member
Another one for inspiration:
Can't say that I'm a fan of those wheels though. Esthetics-wise they just don't work well on the truck.
The suspension goodies that he used: https://qa1.net/product-result/?ymmq=yr_1970~mk_ford~md_f-100
Can't say that I'm a fan of those wheels though. Esthetics-wise they just don't work well on the truck.
The suspension goodies that he used: https://qa1.net/product-result/?ymmq=yr_1970~mk_ford~md_f-100
plain2car
Well-known member
Justin, if you want to see one still for sale, take a short drive along AZ Ave. just south of the 202 san tan on east side of the road there is a chevy and a ford for comparison. (I believe at the storage facility) both are in pretty darn good shape - especially the ford (swb) .... I suppose if you get desperate for assistance there MIGHT be someone on here that has SOME ford truck knowledge....
can't wait to see the plan unfold!
can't wait to see the plan unfold!
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
HmmmJustin, if you want to see one still for sale, take a short drive along AZ Ave. just south of the 202 san tan on east side of the road there is a chevy and a ford for comparison. (I believe at the storage facility) both are in pretty darn good shape - especially the ford (swb) .... I suppose if you get desperate for assistance there MIGHT be someone on here that has SOME ford truck knowledge....
can't wait to see the plan unfold!
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Yes, yes it does...
I spent 2 hours yesterday just looking at the truck planning in my head how I want it to look.
But before I could do that I had to deal with extreme gas fumes. Found two puddles from leaking fuel connections. Shoved the cracked hose on further, tighten clamp.
Absolutely!
Why GM over the mustang II stuff? There are a ton of MII kits from off the self (mild) to full race (wild). It's been the standard IFS for custom builds. but I don't know much about either.
I think the tunability of instant center from an adjustable 4 link is worth it over the other geometries. Parallel 4 link with panhard bar.
Dude needs a solvent to cut some drugs..
QA1 stuff is way expensive compared to Mustang II of similar level. Can get MII kits with QA1 coilovers for example.
Ya, modern wheels don't do it for me.
Everyone and there brother does a coyote. I want something unique that looks, feels and sounds 1970s. A coyote covered in wires and plastic isn't it. Might be the cheapest way to big power.
The green 72 ford is a long bed. It now has a for sale sign on it. The old 'chev looks good to.Justin, if you want to see one still for sale, take a short drive along AZ Ave. just south of the 202 san tan on east side of the road there is a chevy and a ford for comparison. (I believe at the storage facility) both are in pretty darn good shape - especially the ford (swb) .... I suppose if you get desperate for assistance there MIGHT be someone on here that has SOME ford truck knowledge....
can't wait to see the plan unfold!
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
nice wiring hanging over exhaust manifold.
had a few mirrors over the decades
Seat in nice shape
Lots of holes everywhere in the bed
Custom trim level with no moldings like I wanted
Missing a tooth...
ntsqd
Well-known member
M II stuff are basically Pinto parts, they're that small and flimsy. Works fine for a hot rod cruiser. I have no faith in it being stout enough for anything heavy that will get driven hard. There has been a LOT of development in GM suspension parts for use on circle tracks. Seems like the better idea, parts that are designed for heavier cars and racing loads will do better in your use.
Simple panhard/trac-bar, or something more exacting like a Watts Link or a WOB link?
Simple panhard/trac-bar, or something more exacting like a Watts Link or a WOB link?
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Justin, I have an 8BA Flathead with a T-5 hanging on it if you really want to get nostalgic... highway patrol dual exhaust manifolds, twin deuce intake, ready and waiting for a nitrous conversion....
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
I worked for a now defunct shop called Industrial Chassis in Phoenix for my first job out of school. He had Dodge Dakota based IFS systems that we built for F100s of all years. I don't think you can get them anymore though. He had the same argument as @ntsqd as far as Mustang II suspension was concerned on these trucks. The Dakota track width was a great fit for the F100's too, so the factory Dakota suspension geometry was well maintained. People really liked them, but the demand just wasn't there I think.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
Austin, did you work with Wes?!
Geezershop
Well-known member
Have you thought about the Crown Vic front suspension swap?
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Supposed to be almost a bolt-in, just a couple of spacers required.
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
No, he must have been there and gone before me.
ntsqd
Well-known member
I'm curious how that could be. Know of any builds that did this by chance?
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thank you for the wisdom. I will look into this more.
Thanks!
I would put that in an 8N tractor... some day.Justin, I have an 8BA Flathead with a T-5 hanging on it if you really want to get nostalgic... highway patrol dual exhaust manifolds, twin deuce intake, ready and waiting for a nitrous conversion....
Interesting.....
Yes trying to avoid that because of:
-casting looks out of place
-too wide. need wheel with lots of backspacing
-different bolt pattern than the 9"
It fits nicely. still have to do steering linkage, wheels, rear end. and if performance is wanted, new springs, shocks.
There are many builds with CV front end.
example:
Easy to get $4k into a CV setup.
I guess I want to do it the hard way, full custom. Build it myself. One of a kind. For the challenge.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Figured I would rack the old truck and see what could have gone wrong...
Found the source of the nasty vibration...
Has a small block c6 with no kickdown
No under coat to deal with.
I finally found the dipstick, it is under the brake booster. Oil level? off the bottom. Put a few quarts in. Brake fluid? Front reservoir almost empty, topped off.
Found the source of the nasty vibration...
Has a small block c6 with no kickdown
No under coat to deal with.
I finally found the dipstick, it is under the brake booster. Oil level? off the bottom. Put a few quarts in. Brake fluid? Front reservoir almost empty, topped off.
ntsqd
Well-known member
I wonder, do SBF C6's still garner the $$$ that they used to? Since you've mentioned using a much later trans it might be a small "rebate" on your eventual power-train purchases.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Not really sure. I had hear they were less common.
I may sell the engine/trans as a combo, while still running in the truck like I did with the 72 390/C6.
If I keep the 351 maybe learn to rebuild the C6 myself. I don't really need an OD trans given it will be just a 'around town' use. With enough torque, shallow rear end gears could be OK. Has a 3.25:1 in it now.
I may sell the engine/trans as a combo, while still running in the truck like I did with the 72 390/C6.
If I keep the 351 maybe learn to rebuild the C6 myself. I don't really need an OD trans given it will be just a 'around town' use. With enough torque, shallow rear end gears could be OK. Has a 3.25:1 in it now.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
I was able to get the '76 registered and insured so I can take it for a drive. Classic insurance so no emissions tests needed. I guess paper titles are a thing of the past.
Should be better with the u-joint secured and some oil in the motor. Will check trans fluid, and the diff. Start process of cleaning 48 years of grime off. Really needs door and window seals.
I ordered some cheap chambered mufflers for it. The exhaust is pretty ghetto. Going to chop it off at the existing mufflers, ditch them and the tailpipes. I bought a U bend to cut up into turndowns and extensions. I'm pretty sure that is the recipe for exhaust drone.
Should be better with the u-joint secured and some oil in the motor. Will check trans fluid, and the diff. Start process of cleaning 48 years of grime off. Really needs door and window seals.
I ordered some cheap chambered mufflers for it. The exhaust is pretty ghetto. Going to chop it off at the existing mufflers, ditch them and the tailpipes. I bought a U bend to cut up into turndowns and extensions. I'm pretty sure that is the recipe for exhaust drone.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
I drove the truck around the block and the vibes are gone with the driveshaft tightened up. Trans fluid level is OK. I put a quart of gear oil in the 9". The master cylinder is leaking front->back and out the back, need to be replaced, with all the hoses. Have a trans kickdown cable on the way.
I cut off the mufflers and tailpipes, and went for another drive. Sounds much better
I cut off the mufflers and tailpipes, and went for another drive. Sounds much better
ntsqd
Well-known member
If it has PS now I'd move right to a Hydra-Boost booster & late(r) model M/C. RA says that it is a Ø1.0" bore m/c and a '96 F-150 would be a Ø1.06" bore m/c. Albeit it is a aluminum bodied m/c with a plastic reservoir. This usually a move in the right direction for a good pedal feel. With the OE caliper (Ø3.0" piston) the pedal might still feel a little mushy, but with any later caliper Ø2.938" or Ø2.875" depending on if GM or Ford respectively) it should feel great.
ntsqd
Well-known member
FWIW there are two of what you don't want on FBMP. I wasn't even looking for them. All hail the FB Al Gore Rhythm.
Longbed chassis - 03+ CV X '14+ s550 Mustang:
Facebook
www.facebook.com
Shortbed chassis - CV x C-Notched:
Facebook
www.facebook.com
[EDIT] Just noticed this second one is a 67-72 chassis, so won't workeven if you were so inclined.
Longbed chassis - 03+ CV X '14+ s550 Mustang:
www.facebook.com
Shortbed chassis - CV x C-Notched:
www.facebook.com
[EDIT] Just noticed this second one is a 67-72 chassis, so won't workeven if you were so inclined.
Last edited:
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
The CV swaps leave the frame weaker than before. The K member isn't tied into frame much. It works, could be mitigated. There are bolt on adapters for those who want bolt-on solutions.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Dog loves any truck, ready to go for a ride.
Found source of clanging noise over bumps
Found source of clanging noise over bumps
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Step one to making the truck into something more of my own, was to change up the exhaust. Eventually I'll do a full system, but for now just some cheap mufflers on rusty pipes and manifolds. The existing system was pretty quiet with the really long glass pack style mufflers. I haven't used chambered mufflers in a long time, so decided to go that route. I ended up going with Jones full boar units to get the center in/offset out configuration I wanted. To make it more obnoxious, turndowns instead of tailpipes. I bought a 'U' bend to chop up into the pieces I needed.
Since the old mufflers were so long I extended the piping as much as I had to get the mufflers behind the cab.
I made my own hangers out of 3/8 rod bent as needed with some homemade dies in the press.
How does it sound?
Idle is loud with drone, but regular driving and heavy throttle are decent.
photos.app.goo.gl
Since the old mufflers were so long I extended the piping as much as I had to get the mufflers behind the cab.
I made my own hangers out of 3/8 rod bent as needed with some homemade dies in the press.
How does it sound?
Idle is loud with drone, but regular driving and heavy throttle are decent.
New video by Justin OShea
photos.app.goo.gl
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Throw a crossover on those twice pipes!
+10 points for the wheel peel
+10 points for the wheel peel
stinkity stoink
Well-known member
Let’s see what the homemade press dies look like. I love seeing peoples solutions and ideas.
ntsqd
Well-known member
Old trick that I've no idea if valid or not. Paint the head-pipes with junk aerosol paint. Drive the truck, hard, a couple of times. Install the x-over where the paint burned back to.
This was borrowed from the same trick with header collectors, trim them back to where the paint quit burning. Intuitively this makes sense to me, but I can't come up with the reason why you'd do this. Beyond being something more "scientific" than a wet thumb in the wind anyway.
This was borrowed from the same trick with header collectors, trim them back to where the paint quit burning. Intuitively this makes sense to me, but I can't come up with the reason why you'd do this. Beyond being something more "scientific" than a wet thumb in the wind anyway.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Slippery slope here Marc. To do a crossover and still be able to remove the system, I would have to add joints. It would be easier to start from scratch.Throw a crossover on those twice pipes!
+10 points for the wheel peel
I figured a bit of tire squeal is standard practice.
Hmm, well I'll have to come back and add a pic.
text version = 'Press die insert to shorten min length, and a small piece of steel tube cut axially to protect the fingers.'