rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

Old trick that I've no idea if valid or not. Paint the head-pipes with junk aerosol paint. Drive the truck, hard, a couple of times. Install the x-over where the paint burned back to.

This was borrowed from the same trick with header collectors, trim them back to where the paint quit burning. Intuitively this makes sense to me, but I can't come up with the reason why you'd do this. Beyond being something more "scientific" than a wet thumb in the wind anyway.

Interesting. Only thing I have is that once the gasses cool they contract, and need less pipe area for same velocity.

 

[rattle_snake]

With loud pipes in, next hack is to lower the suspension on the cheap. Start with the rear. Axle flip is too low and basically no travel without a C notch, so I just flipped the forward hangers. Fun times removing rivets. I welded the hanger on instead of drilling lots of holes. Also easier to relocate. I picked a spot directly above and tacked them in. Driveshaft is too long now. Set truck on it's weight. Axle centerline was short by an inch, so moved the hangers and buzzed them in. Drop came out to 4.5". Pinion angles up doing this, too far but not too bad.

 

[SilverJimmy]

Saw this @ SEMA 2022, Ridetech’s Ford solution. Look like a nice setup. Had a couple done trucks in their booth.
Please do it so I can decide if it’s what I want for my 73 F100 I’ve had for 40 years!

 

[WoodsTruck]

In reference to your grounding clamp on the exhaust pipe.
I picked up a long flat braided grounding strap to wrap around items too large to clamp the ground to. Bring the ends together and clamp those for a ground. There is a lot of surface area for the strap to find adequate ground usually.

 

[ntsqd]

Similarly, I found a partial jumper cable in the junkyard one day. Only one 1/0 cable and the clamp torn off of one end. It was free.
I use it to ground things when I don't want to risk arc marks or in odd situations.

Just now, sitting here, it occurs to me that what I should do with the magnetic grounding 'clamp' that I've had for years and never gotten around to installing on the welder's ground cable is that I should put it on the other end of the jumper cable.

Looks like the ridetech spindle is based on the '67-'69 Camaro spindle if you buy the "pin" version. Seems like an odd choice. I *think* that the rear steer vintage Nova's etc. (up to '75?) might be that same spindle.

 

[zmotorsports]

I spent 2 hours yesterday just looking at the truck planning in my head how I want it to look.

Justin, if I could give one bit of advice, build the truck to what YOU want it to be. NOT the Garage Journal peanut gallery.

Trust me, I know this is harder said than done, but I have gone down a rabbit hole before after being "persuaded" to go a different direction than I had originally intended. You know what you want, and you know what your budget is and don't let us force you to deviate from that.

Are there knowledgeable people here to lean on for information or answer questions? Hell yes. However, there are some that just want to force their ideas, thoughts and opinions into YOUR build and before you know it, you are over-budget and the build is on a trajectory that you didn't even see coming. Some ideas are good and justified and make sense, however, there are others that do nothing more than alter your plans.

When I was building my last lowered shop truck, I just wanted a nice, clean build that had immaculate paint, polished aluminum wheels, nice stance and yet appeared all OEM under the hood, but had a few "minor" tweaks for performance where they were less noticeable. Things like a mild cam and some mods inside the transmission were about all I did to it, I even kept the OEM exhaust manifolds to keep with my theme. However, if I had listened to many onlookers, I would have had a pro-street version with monster engine, big tire, and only felt at home on the dragstrip and less pleasing to daily drive.

Just a thought as I am following along on your build.

 

[ntsqd]

So the rear is down 4.5", what's the plan for the front or is that still being worked out?

 

[rattle_snake]

Saw this @ SEMA 2022, Ridetech’s Ford solution. Look like a nice setup. Had a couple done trucks in their booth.
Please do it so I can decide if it’s what I want for my 73 F100 I’ve had for 40 years!

Looks like a nice kit but I'm going to do something custom. No bolts. No bags.

In reference to your grounding clamp on the exhaust pipe.
I picked up a long flat braided grounding strap to wrap around items too large to clamp the ground to. Bring the ends together and clamp those for a ground. There is a lot of surface area for the strap to find adequate ground usually.

Hmm, that is a slick idea. I did grind the rust off where the clamp is. Same for frame on both sides.

Justin, if I could give one bit of advice, build the truck to what YOU want it to be. NOT the Garage Journal peanut gallery.

Trust me, I know this is harder said than done, but I have gone down a rabbit hole before after being "persuaded" to go a different direction than I had originally intended. You know what you want, and you know what your budget is and don't let us force you to deviate from that.

Are there knowledgeable people here to lean on for information or answer questions? Hell yes. However, there are some that just want to force their ideas, thoughts and opinions into YOUR build and before you know it, you are over-budget and the build is on a trajectory that you didn't even see coming. Some ideas are good and justified and make sense, however, there are others that do nothing more than alter your plans.

When I was building my last lowered shop truck, I just wanted a nice, clean build that had immaculate paint, polished aluminum wheels, nice stance and yet appeared all OEM under the hood, but had a few "minor" tweaks for performance where they were less noticeable. Things like a mild cam and some mods inside the transmission were about all I did to it, I even kept the OEM exhaust manifolds to keep with my theme. However, if I had listened to many onlookers, I would have had a pro-street version with monster engine, big tire, and only felt at home on the dragstrip and less pleasing to daily drive.

Just a thought as I am following along on your build.

Mike,
Have to agree with you on this one. I'm definitely guilty of it myself.
The key to this stage of the build is 'cheap' and 'fun'.

So the rear is down 4.5", what's the plan for the front or is that still being worked out?

Similar plan, modify the existing beam setup. Target is 2" drop. Replace RA bushings. Cut a coil. Move the transverse beam mount point up to correct camber. New shocks. A junk yard sway bar at some point.

 

[rattle_snake]

With rear end lowered, the driveshaft is too long. It's too long at ride height, and the issue compounds when suspension is at full droop. And on top of that lowering the suspension has moved the range of motion up, but the droop limit was not. So the shocks allow the springs to droop 4" more than stock, and the shackles invert. So the hack is to chop the driveshaft and limit droop.

Driveshaft shrinker


After math and stuff, I determined I needed to shorten by 1-1/2". This yields 2" of slip yolk range at ride height, like it was before. I used the drop as a sleeve by removing a slice. Trim like a piston ring until there is a small gap for the tubing inner weld. Then weld all three pieces together.


Since the sleeve is short, it won't align the tubing by itself. And to clock the ends easily I clamped them to the table with shims to get everything level. Then bracing and clamps for the orthogonal plane. This leaves 3 windows open to start welding.


I chose to grind my ugly welds, haha


Slap it back in. Well almost. It's still a few inches too long at the over-droop condition. It will destroy the u-joints when it bottoms out the slip yolk and binds up. So before it can be installed have to deal with limiting axle droop.


The original adjustable limit strap, aka chain. Strong, cheap and readily available. Not quiet or light weight. I set the length to prevent the slip yolk from bottoming out. This is just temporary until I get new shorter shocks installed to limit the droop, and now I know what the extended max length can be.


Pinion is way off but went for a quick test drive. It vibes as expected. Need to cut axles perches and clock axle about 18*.
After that can move on to the front end.

 

[lilscorpion]

You have (yet again) renewed my desire to come hang out in your shop and just listen to music…can’t even imagine.

 

[Jgaz]

The step bumper over the fab bench still gets the award for the coolest “back of bench” shelf.

 

[stockerwithalocker]

I’m assuming you are sticking with beams? If so, are you thinking of a cut and turn, or another trick up your sleeve?

 

[rattle_snake]

You have (yet again) renewed my desire to come hang out in your shop and just listen to music…can’t even imagine.

It puts a smile on my face. I had a bunch of friends over for my birthday party last Saturday. The system got a lot of reactions. Some asked for the full experience.

The step bumper over the fab bench still gets the award for the coolest “back of bench” shelf.

Thanks I'll take it.
I may do a roll pan on the 76, and would have another bumper....

I’m assuming you are sticking with beams? If so, are you thinking of a cut and turn, or another trick up your sleeve?

For the near term, yes. For just 2" drop the caster increase is fine. For camber, math says 2-3* which appears to be correctable by just moving the beam mount up the same. Can't really cut/weld the forged beams. Can be bent, but drilling a hole seems easier.

 

[lilscorpion]

It puts a smile on my face. I had a bunch of friends over for my birthday party last Saturday. The system got a lot of reactions. Some asked for the full experience.

Belated but happy birthday.

 

[Bob Heine]

I may do a roll pan on the 76, and would have another bumper.

Happy Birthday Justin!

I was thinking a slice off the top of another '76 tailgate would make a nice roll pan. I really like the idea of a roll pan for some reason....

 

[Ohmthis]

Justin, I have some questions on the lowering of the rear suspension. Was the hanger the only mod that you did? Did you measure before and after? How far is the axle from the frame now? I have a 66 f100 and I had planned one or all of the following options. Front hanger flip, a lowering rear shackle, and removing a couple of springs. I did the CV front swap, but haven’t put a fender on yet to see how much drop I have. My guess is around 4-6”. From what I’ve read, the front hanger flip AND the rear shackle may only get me 2.5-3.5” and bring my axle dangerously close to the frame. I have a feeling I will need to do a small c notch to give me what I want. I love following your builds. I’m curious to see what your “budget” sound system will be. Thanks!

 

[PhantomEB]

Only thing I got to say, is that interior is too mint not to keep! Throw new carpet in and a floor shifter!

 

[ntsqd]

I'll just put this right here, and see what that inspires..........

 

[PugetDude]

I'll just put this right here, and see what that inspires..........

Erection in 3...2...1.

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, I have some questions on the lowering of the rear suspension. Was the hanger the only mod that you did? Did you measure before and after? How far is the axle from the frame now? I have a 66 f100 and I had planned one or all of the following options. Front hanger flip, a lowering rear shackle, and removing a couple of springs. I did the CV front swap, but haven’t put a fender on yet to see how much drop I have. My guess is around 4-6”. From what I’ve read, the front hanger flip AND the rear shackle may only get me 2.5-3.5” and bring my axle dangerously close to the frame. I have a feeling I will need to do a small c notch to give me what I want. I love following your builds. I’m curious to see what your “budget” sound system will be. Thanks!

Yes at this time I only moved the forward hanger. Target was 4" drop so I moved the forward spring bolt up about 8". I ended up with 4.5".

I haven't measured the up-travel, but I think I have about 2-3" from bump stop to the axle.

The stock shackles are 4.5". A 6.5" would fit and lower truck 1".

Pulling leaves depends on how many are in the pack to start with. The F100 leaves are already pretty soft. Some remove the overload leaf. I'll have to look and see if it can even do anything before the axle hits the bump stop. If not, just extra weight. It's about 3/4 thick and would lower the same.

 

[Ohmthis]

Yes at this time I only moved the forward hanger. Target was 4" drop so I moved the forward spring bolt up about 8". I ended up with 4.5".

I haven't measured the up-travel, but I think I have about 2-3" from bump stop to the axle.

The stock shackles are 4.5". A 6.5" would fit and lower truck 1".

Pulling leaves depends on how many are in the pack to start with. The F100 leaves are already pretty soft. Some remove the overload leaf. I'll have to look and see if it can even do anything before the axle hits the bump stop. If not, just extra weight. It's about 3/4 thick and would lower the same.

How do plan to get your driveshaft angle back in line, shims? Yes, the overload spring is the one I’m talking about. I guess I’ll just experiment once I get to the rear lowering stage. Thanks Justin for responding.

 

[ntsqd]

FWIW, if it is to be pinion angle shims I've grown real fond of WFO's steel shims. No doubt others make them, but one of the two WFO founders is a college classmate of mine.

A friend put me onto flipping O/L's upside down as a way of getting out of contact while maintaining the existing ride height. In an off-roader this also helps with not allowing the leaf springs to kink over the sharp edge of the spring perch when you use all of their travel. A different friend told me that he uses a hammer drill on leaf springs with great success. With a flipped O/L I'd be tempted to put a urethane bump-stop on the forward tip of the O/L if doing so left a small air gap between the spring and the bump-stop or trim the bump so that there was one. Instant, inexpensive traction bars.

 

[rattle_snake]

To correct pinion angle the axle perches have to be cut off and rotated the correct amount. Shims are available in, and work for a few degrees but not significant changes. For example to get 20* from a shim, one end would be almost 2" tall and the other zero. The spring bolt doesn't work at that angle, nor does the U-bolts and spring plates without an equal shim on top. Steel shims are not cheap and have to be bolted into the pack. Moving the perch is free if reusing the existing. Would be quicker to plasma them off and install new.

My method is this;

1. Measure pinion and driveshaft angles
2. calculate the needed correction
3. Remove the u-bolts from one side
4. Gouge the welds and use a air chisel to pop the perch off
5. Measure the angle of perch on other side
6. Position the loose one from measurements in step 2 and 5.
7. Tack weld
8. Reassemble U bolts loosely.
9. Do the other side
10. Snug u bolts and set vehicle on the ground.
11. repeat step 1. if angle needs further adjustment, repeat process.
12. Finish welding and torque bolts.

In my case I believe the pinion was 14* up, and driveshaft 3* (up). Pinion should be equal to trans, 1-2* degrees down from driveline in this case, so target is 1* up. The angles are dependent on one another but we can ignore this for simplicity. Correction is 14-3 = 11 down +2 down = 13 down as a starting point. At full droop the existing perch is 12* up, so need the new position to be 12* + 13* = 25* up

Under acceleration the pinion will rise and reduce operating angle, so a degree or two more is typically done.

In my case rotating the pinion down moves the ujoint down and makes driveline angle larger.

 

[rattle_snake]

FWIW, if it is to be pinion angle shims I've grown real fond of WFO's steel shims. No doubt others make them, but one of the two WFO founders is a college classmate of mine.

A friend put me onto flipping O/L's upside down as a way of getting out of contact while maintaining the existing ride height. In an off-roader this also helps with not allowing the leaf springs to kink over the sharp edge of the spring perch when you use all of their travel. A different friend told me that he uses a hammer drill on leaf springs with great success. With a flipped O/L I'd be tempted to put a urethane bump-stop on the forward tip of the O/L if doing so left a small air gap between the spring and the bump-stop or trim the bump so that there was one. Instant, inexpensive traction bars.

WFO has some nice stuff. For example, their max shim is 8*, and has a pocket cut for the mis-aligned pin bolt.

I had done similar experimentation with O/Ls on my 72. For this 76 F100, the O/L are pretty flat and already 'up'. I like the idea of the bumper on the forward O/L leaf to limit deflection.

 

[ntsqd]

The other way to do it, and is what Toyota at least used to do, is a very long 'keeper' on the rear end of the O/L leaf. Now when the spring tries to wind up it pulls the cross-bar of the 'keeper' down on top of the main leaf. Same result, possibly a better idea as normal spring compression is unhindered, and the 'keeper' length is set so that the cross-bar almost makes contact at full droop - so unhindered in that direction too.

 

[rattle_snake]

Back to normal life from my deer hunt this year. Took 6 years to draw a tag, did a group draw with a friend and his SIL who had never been hunting. AZ is buck only. Camper battery was dead as truck charge system has some problem. And the water pump wouldn't pump anything. I brought a new pump and installed but it appears the suction line has a leak. Can't access. Used some jumper cables to limp the battery enough for some lights, but the audio system would kill it quickly.
My friend shot a spike on opening evening at 17 feet as it was running towards him. I got a spike the next evening not far away. I care more about meat than number of points or ego. Hunted 2 more days and were happy to get what we did. Daytime was 75* even at 6000' elevation, so we packed the carcasses with ice blocks and kept them in the shade. There is no cell service in the area, which was a nice break from the noise and stress of life. I had a day to sleep in and do whatever. Went for a long ride to areas I had not explored. Then I played with sticks and rocks (cut firewood and re-engineered the firepit for better cooking). Had some good whiskey, cigars, and conversation around the fire. Both my girls requested me to be successful so they could enjoy venison sausage, and I did.

 

[rattle_snake]

The other way to do it, and is what Toyota at least used to do, is a very long 'keeper' on the rear end of the O/L leaf. Now when the spring tries to wind up it pulls the cross-bar of the 'keeper' down on top of the main leaf. Same result, possibly a better idea as normal spring compression is unhindered, and the 'keeper' length is set so that the cross-bar almost makes contact at full droop - so unhindered in that direction too.

Interesting thanks for sharing.

In my case the truck barely has any power, haha. For now. With 4-link as final solution, I'm trying to limit time and money into the leaf setup. I may try the hammer drill tip to allow one of the two solutions at some point.

 

[ntsqd]

It just needs a bottle. That will fix the power issue. Until it doesn't.

Congrats on the Spike!

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks. It will taste delicious.

Last night I got one perch positioned and tacked in. On to the other side. I try to cut as much weld out as possible then go in at a 45*


This axle has slices in the tub that are filled with the perch weld. Have not seen that before. Slicked out the tube for welding in the new location.


Both sides cut and turned. Installed shorter shocks. They are the size for the front, and there is no size in between the front/back in this brand/type. Extended length is 3" shorter than the old.


I set the truck in it's weight and measured. Pinion was 8*, and driveshaft at 6*. So not enough. Even though I rotated perches 13*, it yielded a change of only 4*. I decided to go for a short test drive. The carb has a flat spot off idle, it coughed and then made some loud banging noises. Then the driveshaft exited stage left. Instead of stopping, I decided to put trans in N and coast into the shop, instead of pushing the truck. Then I went back and got the driveshaft. I actually found the caps


My tack welds came loose and pinion rotated until the cap bolts broke. It needed to move anyhow. I called it a night.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Use "alt 0176" for a ° symbol, as in 8°.
Or Randy uses it as 117°F when he gets off work.

Carry on.

 

[ntsqd]

and alt 0216 gets you "Ø" I use both of those daily at work.
Then there's alt 0177 for "±"
And a looking over of the right ASCII text chart will reveal a LOT more.
It's clumsy at first, but it doesn't take long before it's habit.

 

[rattle_snake]

I dunno, does Randy ever get off work? Man is a machine!

I like the nerdery of the proper use of symbols

 

[rattle_snake]

Luckily the hacked up driveshaft was not damaged from it's unintended exit. I installed a new Spicer 1310 u-joint and a set of yolk u-bolts. The yolk suffered some damage on one bolt hole but is still usable.
I was able to loosen the axle U-bolts, rotate the pinion to the angle I wanted, and weld in place on it own weight. Now the setup is 6° trans, 6° driveshaft and 5° pinion. I drove the truck to work today and there are no vibes at speed.
It rides much better with new rear shocks that actually do something, and connected on both ends. Next step is to move on to the front end and level the truck out.

 

[plain2car]

looks like we have some "cadd users" here.... I too use those.... side note: it appears that the green Ford was sold & all that is left is the LWB '67 chevy truck now. it would be nice to see the ford around town some now.

 

[rattle_snake]

It would but it seems most classics are tucked away in a collection and not driven much.
You should buy the 67 Chev....

 

[rattle_snake]

One of the battery clamps broke so I had a pair of vice-grips on it for awhile. Picked up some mil spec terminals but they came with metric hardware. I want simple, no metric. The post nut is special with a spacer built in. I can't have extra washers or spacers so I machined pockets on the mill to be able to use a regular hex cap bolt/kep nut.


The high current wiring was janky at best. I move the battery ground to the engine block, and crimped a lug on the damaged end to work with the lug type terminals. Also replaced the positive wire to the starter solenoid with a 2 ga scrap I had on hand, and the matching terminal.
The toothed kep nuts allow needing only one wrench to loosen/tighten the hardware.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice job Justin. I have used those MIL-spec battery terminations as well with good results. I have also been using the marine grade ones quite a bit over the past few years with great results, especially on the Jeeps and they've withstood the hard bouncing and rough environment very well.

 

[plain2car]

ditto on my '86 chevy, the terminals are new to me, but seem pretty nice. Justin, my '86 is already a big "time taker" for me, so another "project" would put me in the "dog house" with my financial adviser/wife!!! I think I am going to name the truck "del infierno"!! . One of these days I will PM you & see about meeting up to show you the chevy side of things....

 

[ntsqd]

doh! They're metric? I've been using SAE sized MAC & Snap-On tools on those terminal fasteners without any problems.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Figured