rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[WoodsTruck]

I have a bad habit of digging through the scrap bin at work. I like to have various sizes of round stock to use in the press. Seems like I can usually make something work.

 

[ntsqd]

Sounds like a great habit and resource to me.

I see that the plasma table has Z-axis lead screw. I can't imagine contour cutting with a plasma so I'm guessing that it is mostly for setting the cutter height. AKA a 2.5 axis machine. Think you can figure out how to ramp in and out? Is it a G-code processor? Manual code editing?

School had a Bridgeport Bandit, a 2.5 axis machine. One of the Profs wrote a BASIC (!!!) program to output 3 axis steps code for a student assignment. Overall it cut a "bolt" from a block of wood and the 3 axis linear steps was how it cut the threads. 360 steps per single revolution. The bolt threads couldn't be very long or the resulting program wouldn't fit on a 5in floppy......
Maybe an approach like that (please god, not in BASIC) would get you there?

 

[ntsqd]

BTW, I figured out that if I exchanged the Z values for the start and end of the thread that it cut the threads left-handed! He didn't even know it would do that.

 

[rattle_snake]

The Z axis is for torch height control. The material is never flat, so it adjusts Z such that arc voltage is constant. The controller SW used G code and it can be manually edited. Someone has figure this out.

The machine also has initial height sense, so it drops torch to find Z offset. This doesn't work with a moving rotary cutter, but if I gate the power to the router similar to the plasma it should work.

 

[rattle_snake]

Dove into g code a bit, just enough to hack a solution. Add line to manually lower the cutter on each feature. Value can negative so can zero axis and let it go.

I could write a script in python to automatically add the code to any .nc file. There are online g code editors and decoders that can be used as well.

 

[ntsqd]

Sub-routines supported?

 

[rattle_snake]

anything I dream up. but easiest is just search and replace with text editor. append '\nG0 Z-.187.' to dwell and done. one click.

 

[rattle_snake]

 

[rattle_snake]

Dirt bike pissed itself. Aftermarket oversize tank cracked, junk.


My semi-fancy tank cap did't fit the new tank. So boring bar.


I prefer the black color like the OEM.

 

[PhantomEB]

I have a bad habit of digging through the scrap bin at work. I like to have various sizes of round stock to use in the press. Seems like I can usually make something work.

I have a small surplus of anything the machinist throws out. He’s taught me to Dig out old rusted out pipe studs for when I get a small mill/lathe and make my own spacer plates, rods, whatever.

 

[WoodsTruck]

A mill/lathe would be a nice "add" to the shop. Maybe when I retire.
Drill, grinder, bandsaw and welder get me by for now.
I salvaged all the material for the black ramps, pedestal and bunk on my wheelbarrow out of the scrap bin.
Oh, and the white storage pouch was recycled from a big banner from when we delivered the giant Christmas tree to Portland. They wanted to reuse it but they had printed the year on it. I was asked to make it go away.

 

[ntsqd]

I went a long time w/o a mill, but I've had a lathe since the late 80's. Even a worn out, babbit-bearing head-stock Atlas can make projects SO much easier.

 

[PhantomEB]

Now i come to this thread after adding in a Double din Alpine deck onto Amazon since I tend to want similar units as far as truck stereos (Bronco already has Alpine deck and planning JBLs for marine speakers since I gonna run a JBL pill on the cage). Now Justin’s work has me thinking a Sub box on the transmission hump in the back seat of my Dodge. Then a removable carpeted platform for the dogs so they can see out on road trips.

10” JBL sub more than enough? What Amp as long I can put it under the passenger seat….

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes a single 10 can be enough. I would use a class D type sub amp for under seat use. small and less heat.

 

[rattle_snake]

Finished out the passenger door panel. routed edges. Wrapped the base.


Ready to install


Actually fits correctly. Miracle.


Matches nicely.

 

[rattle_snake]

Driver door was CNC for both metal and foam. Transferred the clip locations and made pockets in the back side of the lower foam layer.


The stack up.


The material has a fair amount of stretch. Have to make sure there is enough adhesive to stay in concave areas.


Trim at the end makes the back side look decent.


Used a small amount of adhesive foam tape to secure the areas the armrest won't.


The speaker location in the left door is higher up than the right, and interfered with the new thicker panel. Trimmed the top of the speaker, and moved the speaker down a bit in the hole. Between the two I was able to get things to fit.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Door panels turned out great!

 

[stinkity stoink]

The interior is really looking nice !!

 

[zmotorsports]

Phenomenal job Justin. Just excellent workmanship.

 

[ntsqd]

When can you start on the 4 door panels for my Wagon(eer)?

 

[PugetDude]

I am willing to jump right to the interior on my unfinished '32 if you're interested and available...

 

[rattle_snake]

Door panels turned out great!

Thanks Marc. Not sure why I stalled out for so long on doing them. The CNC capabilities really improve quality.

The interior is really looking nice !!

Thanks Dave. The seat was a bit out of place, now with the doors matching it's coming together.

Phenomenal job Justin. Just excellent workmanship.

Thanks Mike. I'm still working on slowing down, enjoying, and making a better product.

When can you start on the 4 door panels for my Wagon(eer)?

Do you have a complete set of cad files to send me? haha

I am willing to jump right to the interior on my unfinished '32 if you're interested and available...

What type of overall design style are you going for? Key elements?

 

[ntsqd]

Do you have a complete set of cad files to send me? haha

No, but give me a couple of days. What file format?

 

[rattle_snake]

Pulled the dash pad out of the 72 F250. Not a fun job have to remove everything in dash to have any hope. Arms all cut up. But it's out.
Spent some time removing the silicon from the cover and the duct tape over the cracks. The pad is hammered dog ****. There is no metal base. Even the cheap repops are $500, so going to stabilize and repair this one, wrap in vinyl. The plastic cover I have doesn't fully cover the front edge and isn't really useful. Due to the amount of filler needed, thinking body filler instead of epoxy.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Looking forward to see how you get a skin to lay down on the dash well. Been staring at a cracked dash in my Bronco for 36 years now and haven't done anything serious about it yet. I did buy an aftermarket pad from a vendor but I have to lift the top to tip the windshield out of the way to get to the screws to change it. Always wondered what could be done with the existing pad.
Can you integrate a shallow tray in the center where you have the rectangular cutout, similar to the newer F-series pickups?

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for the idea of a tray. The rectangular 'hole' is where the speaker would have been, perforated foam but just gone now. I plan to just fill in the rectangle hole. Contemplating how to trim around the defrost vents and address the ends. On the 76 F100 dash I wish I would have sewn the ends. My plan this time is to make a painters tape template, transfer that to vinyl, test fit and go from there.

 

[LXCam]

What type of overall design style are you going for? Key elements?

Justin, Scott’s going full on 70’s pimp mobile.

Ya gotta hook him up

 

[WoodsTruck]

Can you extract the defrost ducts and make a recess for them to drop into once the cover is installed?
I did something similar with a lower panel cover in my work truck. Popped the headlight switch out and covered the panel, then popped the switch back in. Darn XL work trucks don't have a storage cubby in the arm rest like my Lariat's do so I had to improve a place to put small items.

 

[PugetDude]

Justin, Scott’s going full on 70’s pimp mobile.

Ya gotta hook him up

Shagadelic!

 

[ntsqd]

I'm also interested in how you approach the cracked dash. An old project of mine had one not that bad, but far from nice and I really didn't know what to do about it.
An idea that I'd had was to smooth it out using body filler etc, and pull a mold off of it. then lay-up a fiberglass dash "pad". Only I'm not that skilled with fiberglass and the odds of my making huge mess of it were high.

And LXCam, she's lovely, but that car......... es muy feo!

 

[rattle_snake]

I had to stare at it for awhile trying to formulate a plan of attack. There were a few cracks that went all the way through. One that was too much for just filler so I used some foam to fill most of the void.
Rehab step one was to get down to a clean layer for filler to adhere to. I used a roloc scotchbite to sand the edges and remove any old adhesives. Also sanded down the ridges of foam and cracked top layer. They will need more but first need to be stabilized else it just keeps cracking.


1st round of filler applied. I used a two layer sandwich of 3/16 foam board to fill in the speaker hole.


Used some filler on back side to reinforce the thin foam areas at the cracks.


Started to sand down the first layer. Will have to sand down into the foam to get the ridges out. Now that it's semi-stabilized the edges can be feathered without just breaking off.

 

[larry4406]

You peaked my curiosity at the padded dash repair!

I am a Mopar E-body guy and they are plagued with cracked dashes.

Some links to repairs that may be useful that I have saved over the years

https://www.forebodiesonly.com/forum/attachments/the-book-of-plastic-repair-pdf.128867/ see page 8 for instructions

Are you sure you want to try to restore your own dash pad??

After seeing the prices of three speaker dash pads made on a steel frame I decided to try to undertake my own repair. I had two candidates to pick from. The one I used was better than the other candidate but not by a whole lot. This is about 17 hours into it. This will probably be the first and...

www.forebodiesonly.com

has anyone tried restoring their dash pads?

I just finished restoring a dash pad from a 73 challenger, I used a flexible epoxy adhesive and colored truck bed liner, I think it turned out pretty good

www.forebodiesonly.com

 

[WoodsTruck]

I had a custom seat made for my dual sport a while back. The guy built the seat up with multiple layers of various densities of foam to get the desired shape and firmness. On top of all that he applied a thin stretchable foam to cover all the seams and transistions from one from layer to the other. This also gives it that initial squishy feeling. I bought some for whatever use I'd find for it. I wonder if a skim layer of that stretchy type neoprene foam would help make a nice smooth and lightly padded feel under the vinyl cover.
I can do some digging to see where I found it. Found it.

Neoprene High Quality Skins - 1/16"x80"x48"

Check out the deal on Neoprene High Quality Skins - 1/16"x80"x48" at Foam Factory, Inc.

www.foambymail.com

 

[rattle_snake]

I looked around at the foam at the upholstery shop. There were a few types and I didn't know what I wanted so I didn't buy any. Now I wish I had.
The foam adds some more complexity. Not sure how the foam would react to the glue, it melts the foam in the rigid boards. So plan to just do the best I can with what I have. The pad is really past saving if perfect is the goal. Would be time and money ahead to buy a new pad and cover it. but perfect is not the goal of this truck. I'll do a 90% job, as the last 10% is 90% of the effort. The end product will be much better than the wavy plastic cover, and the matching fabric should bring it all together.

 

[rattle_snake]

Looking at a low cost laser for use on CNC table. Use would be engraving and perhaps cutting foam or fabric.
Can get a 5W air assist type for under $100. Anyone done this?

 

[ntsqd]

You're going to need to develop or adapt a quick change tooling head for that table.

 

[Swanny1953]

Phenomenal job Justin. Just excellent workmanship.

What he said!! I'm continually impressed by your willingness to tackle just about anything!

 

[tarbellb]

Looking at a low cost laser for use on CNC table. Use would be engraving and perhaps cutting foam or fabric.
Can get a 5W air assist type for under $100. Anyone done this?

CO2 or Fiber?

No experience retro fitting, but 5w CO2 seems on the very low end of usable power? 30w gets 1/8" ply cutting ability, 100w gets you 1/4" ply cutting

 

[slodat]

I looked around at the foam at the upholstery shop. There were a few types and I didn't know what I wanted so I didn't buy any. Now I wish I had.
The foam adds some more complexity. Not sure how the foam would react to the glue, it melts the foam in the rigid boards. So plan to just do the best I can with what I have. The pad is really past saving if perfect is the goal. Would be time and money ahead to buy a new pad and cover it. but perfect is not the goal of this truck. I'll do a 90% job, as the last 10% is 90% of the effort. The end product will be much better than the wavy plastic cover, and the matching fabric should bring it all together.

Generally speaking, foam from an upholstery supplier will work well with adhesives. For a dash pad you want either XLPE (cross linked polyethylene) or closed cell landau top foam. The later is definitely at any upholstery distributor. On the landau you want to scuff both sides with 80 grit. It has a skin on it and the adhesive won't bond to the skin. A few passes with 80 grit sanding block does the trick. Either foam can be shaped with round over router bits, sanding, etc. The denser XLPE has very little give, like an OEM dash.

Anytime the material (vinyl/leather) won't lay flat on its own you will need a seam. Materials will stretch some of course. This is a good way to sort out when and where you need seams. You can use masking tape as a pattern should you decide to add seams. Always happy to help. I don't have as much time on the forum these days, but I'm happy to help nonetheless.

 

[plain2car]

Justin, following along closely so YOU can do my dash as well.... LOL!!! hit me up next time you think about going to the upholstry shop, i will go as I need to get some material as well...