rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[zmotorsports]

I don't mind leaning forward to reach park or reverse but wanted to have 1,2,D within comfortable reach while driving. What did you do to make a auto floor shifter work on your '84 square body?

I initially though that tilting it back would help with reach to R, P, but it didn't really and looked goofy. I don't think I posted v1.0

I agree. Catch can can prevent getting burned with coolant. Burping the system can spray your feet, or it can vent itself at any time. It can also act as an memory element, providing evidence of an event that pushed coolant out.

Justin, similar to you, I fabricated a base in which to mount the B&M Quick Silver on to raise it up enough to be comfortable. Also like you, I had mine to where I just had to lean forward for Reverse and Park, but the ratcheting for the forward gears was able to be performed sitting in standard driving position without having to exert any body English to reach. As you are aware, when racing everything has to be comfortable without taking eyes off of road or maneuvering one's body for certain functions. That being said, this was early on in my fabrication journey, being still in High School, so mine looked nothing as nice as yours. The later ones I did when I had my speed shop I was much more pleased with.

As for cooling system catch cans, I think they are much more of an integral part of the system than merely getting burned by coolant or showing evidence of coolant being pushed out because in a normal functioning system that has the correct pressure cap on it, coolant will get pushed out. The catch can goes one step further to allow that coolant that has been expelled from the radiator to actually be drawn back in when the system cools and therefore prevents air pockets in the system.

One of the services I really pushed back when I had my speed shop was the installation of surge tanks into the cooling system. I found owners were less likely to keep an eye on their coolant levels and just wanted to drive their cars until one day all of a sudden they are down enough coolant that the system is not functioning as it should and they have no idea when the coolant was lost, whether it was a sudden loss or over a period of months. The surge tank allows the owner to open and verify the level occasionally without ever having to remove the radiator cap. Because the surge tank is vented to atmosphere, all they have to do is check it occasionally for any evaporation from the surge tank. I'd tell my clients to just check it every once in a while, when they checked other vital fluids and there should be no need to remove the radiator cap if everything is functioning fine.

 

[ntsqd]

The NHRA really only wants a catch can in order to keep coolant off the race track. They don't care if the cooling system can pull that expelled coolant back into the system when it cools off (we do or should!). Same reason is why the Nitro cars have to have a 'diaper' under the oil pan, when (not if) they poke a hole in the oil pan the NHRA wants to keep their track clean. Can't say that I blame them, going fast over someone's patch of coolant or oil seems like a really bad idea to me! Not to mention the downtime and cost of cleaning it up, which can be huge when it is a televised event.

 

[zmotorsports]

The NHRA really only wants a catch can in order to keep coolant off the race track. They don't care if the cooling system can pull that expelled coolant back into the system when it cools off (we do or should!). Same reason is why the Nitro cars have to have a 'diaper' under the oil pan, when (not if) they poke a hole in the oil pan the NHRA wants to keep their track clean. Can't say that I blame them, going fast over someone's patch of coolant or oil seems like a really bad idea to me! Not to mention the downtime and cost of cleaning it up, which can be huge when it is a televised event.

Agreed Thom, which is why I prefaced stating regardless of whether it is an NHRA guideline or not, they still add benefits other than merely puking coolant on the ground. Even for those with street/strip vehicles, most spend much more time and miles on the street than they do a quarter mile at a time on the dragstrip. The benefits are numerous.

 

[rattle_snake]

Mike,
As you know on these old Ford trucks the radiator just wasn't filled to the brim and the air pocket is the surge/overflow mechanism. It is the highest point in the system to allow this. So I don't expect it to push/pull any coolant out under normal operation, only overheat. I'm not sure filling the radiator more or all the way up is helpful. What do you think?

 

[ntsqd]

I have my own process that I'm not convinced is correct, so I'm interested to read what those with more experience in this sort of thing have to say.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Mike,
As you know on these old Ford trucks the radiator just wasn't filled to the brim and the air pocket is the surge/overflow mechanism. It is the highest point in the system to allow this. So I don't expect it to push/pull any coolant out under normal operation, only overheat. I'm not sure filling the radiator more or all the way up is helpful. What do you think?

Remove radiator cap, replace Ford with GM or Toyota product, replace radiator cap.

Fixed

I always fill the engine from the top radiator hose first, and top off the radiator as necessary. This is very helpful with an LS that notoriously get air pockets.

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike,
As you know on these old Ford trucks the radiator just wasn't filled to the brim and the air pocket is the surge/overflow mechanism. It is the highest point in the system to allow this. So I don't expect it to push/pull any coolant out under normal operation, only overheat. I'm not sure filling the radiator more or all the way up is helpful. What do you think?

Justin, I prefer to have coolant right to the radiator cap as that is when they operate most effectively and consistently. Air isn't the best media to transfer heat to these things. Kind of like a temp. sensor, air against a temp sensor will give erroneous readings, if they register at all, so having coolant full and to the cap will allow much more accurate expansion and retraction of the coolant via the surge tank. Plus air isn't as compressible as fluid, so generally with every pound you raise the cooling system you can get about 2 degrees of temperature protection before boiling.

If there is a lot of air in the top of the radiator's tank, I would think that will hinder the accuracy of controlling that boiling point. At least that has been my experience and opinion and why I always incorporated a surge tank into any car I was building, whether they came from the factory with one or not and regardless of whether it needed to meet any NHRA criteria or not.

Not sure if that helps or not as you are already incorporating a surge tank into your build, so it's a moot point.

Remove radiator cap, replace Ford with GM or Toyota product, replace radiator cap.

Fixed

I always fill the engine from the top radiator hose first, and top off the radiator as necessary. This is very helpful with an LS that notoriously get air pockets.

I don't mean to muddy Justin's thread with any more Ford vs. Chev comments than I already have. However, my cousin called me the other night about a friend who just bought an old "hot rod" pickup and needs some work done to it and gave him my name. He said it's a Model A Ford pickup with a small block Chevy in it. I jokingly told him "Oh he wanted to make that Ford run did he?" We banter back and forth quite a bit so I know he had to see that coming. He couldn't have walked into that one completely blind.

 

[ntsqd]

I fill full with a coolant recovery tank connected, that is at least 1/2 full. Then let the system find it's desired level.
Needs to be the right cap though, learned that early on. Can you even buy just a pressure cap that doesn't have a vacuum relief valve in it any more?
Occasionally that process results in a cold level lower than I think it should be and need to add some more coolant. Rarely do those systems go back to that lower than I'd like level. Which makes me suspect an air bubble or bubbles caused it. This has made the coolant system vacuum tool that Mike showed in his thread a couple pages back an intriguing idea. Ping'd a friend in the Auto Technician trade about it and his response was "Oh, yeah, some of these late models won't fill any other way. Rather than guess or take the time to look it up I just use it on everything."

For decades the best SBF Windsor cylinder head option was the C9OE casting, and those were extremely hard to find. Unless you did a Cleveland head conversion, which has it's own set of best casting rarities, all with compromised in the exhaust ports, and requiring different pistons. There wasn't an after-maket head option. Getting a Ford to run with an SBC took a lot more work. The same amount of effort and money resulted in less HP because of that handicap. Thankfully the the after-market has pulled their heads out of their behindular zones and realized that there IS a market for a performance SBF Windsor head.

 

[zmotorsports]

This has made the coolant system vacuum tool that Mike showed in his thread a couple pages back an intriguing idea. Ping'd a friend in the Auto Technician trade about it and his response was "Oh, yeah, some of these late models won't fill any other way. Rather than guess or take the time to look it up I just use it on everything."

The GM LS family of engines is particularly fussy as well about getting air trapped in the cylinder heads so the AirLift (or equivalent) vacuum fill tool is almost a must to remove any guesswork and instill confidence in having a fully filled cooling system. Like your mechanic friend, I too use it on every cooling system I open, but just as important as ensuring there are no air bubbles, I use it to pull a vacuum and walk away to make certain there are no leaks and the system is tight before I waste time and materials filling with coolant only then to discover a leak somewhere in the system, such as a hose connection or clamp.

 

[SilverJimmy]

In a past life I was a certified boat mechanic (so long ago we were mechanics, not “techs”!) and it was standard procedure to pressure and vacuum test every outdrive we rebuilt or serviced. Critical to keep the oil in and the water out. I’ve just always done the same on any system that I worked on where it made sense to do those checks.

 

[zmotorsports]

In a past life I was a certified boat mechanic (so long ago we were mechanics, not “techs”!) and it was standard procedure to pressure and vacuum test every outdrive we rebuilt or serviced. Critical to keep the oil in and the water out. I’ve just always done the same on any system that I worked on where it made sense to do those checks.

Don't even get me started on the whole "mechanic vs. technician" thing Sterling.

 

[ntsqd]

The only acceptable position with "Engineer" in the title that doesn't require college level Calculus classes operates a train.

The '04 Avalanche 5.3L for my Wagon project has it's surge tank in the pressurized side of the system. I first owned a system like that in a VW Caddy diesel and came to prefer it. Except when it was already warm and needed a topping-off.

 

[zmotorsports]

The only acceptable position with "Engineer" in the title that doesn't require college level Calculus classes operates a train.

The '04 Avalanche 5.3L for my Wagon project has it's surge tank in the pressurized side of the system. I first owned a system like that in a VW Caddy diesel and came to prefer it. Except when it was already warm and needed a topping-off.

Yeah, the trend I've noticed seems to be where radiator access is less than ideal or the radiator is quite a bit lower in the chassis, the surge tanks usually has the pressurized cap. Not sure I prefer one way over the other as I have both in my fleet and both styles of having the pressurized cap on the radiator or the surge tank perform similarly. But I agree, when the surge tank needs topping off, it needs to be cooled before releasing the cap.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for the insight Mike. Considering doing same for the 72 F250.

 

[rattle_snake]

Pics of the catch can mount.

 

[rattle_snake]

I finally put the hood back on the truck

 

[rattle_snake]

I wasn't really happy with the tan interior spray paint on the dash and vents, so I went back and painted them black. At some point I'll buy a new bezel.

 

[rattle_snake]

I came to realize that my front cover dipstick can have false readings with rear/dual sump oil pan. Once the oil level gets below the 'saddle' of the pan, the level in the rear is unknown. To mitigate that for now, I added an equalizer tube between the sumps. Drain plugs were M14-1.5, so replaced with banjo bolts and AN adapters.


The front drain is partially blocked and needs a deflector to not make a mess, but now can drain with the rear plug only directly into oil tub.

 

[rattle_snake]

I changed out the break-in oil for hot-rod oil. The oil was black like a diesel with maybe 50 miles on it. No glitter or metal, so cam is good, but a layer of black goo at the bottom. I put in 5 qts and the dipstick reads just over the max level, same as last time. Given the mishmash of parts that don't go together the markings aren't relevant.

 

[ntsqd]

Break-in cam lube? Usually it's high in molybdenum.

Sure looks like a non-humped rear sump pan would fit the chassis. Next engine?
Bonus would be more oil volume and further away from the rotating bits. Something shaped like: https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/products/16-674-351w-ford-rear-sump-4x4-truck-oil-pan.html
Building a pan like that isn't too tricky. Building the pick-up can be depending on what you've got to work with (aka can cut up). Helps to have a bare block to use as the fixture.

 

[rattle_snake]

Added a DSP to the cheap audio system. Was looking for some type of EQ but options slim other than the old school dash mount 1/2 DIN turds. Anything Audiocontrol is scarce and expensive now, was never a replacement for their products. So for $65 can get a full DSP with EQ, delay, X-overs, limiter, blah blah.
I decided to just stash it under the seat on enough cable to be able to set it on the seat to tune it. It does the things it should and makes a considerable improvement. I used my reference microphone to level the frequency response. Need to go back and set up the limiter.

 

[rattle_snake]

Break-in cam lube? Usually it's high in molybdenum.

Sure looks like a non-humped rear sump pan would fit the chassis. Next engine?
Bonus would be more oil volume and further away from the rotating bits. Something shaped like: https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/products/16-674-351w-ford-rear-sump-4x4-truck-oil-pan.html
Building a pan like that isn't too tricky. Building the pick-up can be depending on what you've got to work with (aka can cut up). Helps to have a bare block to use as the fixture.

yes I used assembly grease, also a Driven Racing product.


But also break-in specific oil, same price as the regular hot-rod types. Not an additive.

And then this to keep cam and lifters happy.

 

[rattle_snake]

As for the oil pan itself, well use what I have is low cost route. This chassis will accept any of the three types, until I change it. Then who knows so hold off until then. The pan leaked at the dipstick casting, and the dipstick interfered with the headers, so I went away from a rear dipstick. I considered a front sump pan, but instead $15 in banjo fittings. Had I understood the issue when the motor was out, I would have welded in a tube or lowered the saddle to address the issue.

 

[rattle_snake]

Because carburetor with no choke, I decided to use the spare switch in the ashtray to control the idle stop solenoid for high idle. Turning on the A/C also does this, but it loads the motor and AFR goes leaner, which is the opposite of what I need. Again, carb problems that EFI solves inherently. So I needed to isolate the ISS from the A/C clutch control with a logical OR circuit, aka one diode. That way either A/C or the switch can turn on the ISS, but switch won't engage clutch.

A leaded diode is fragile, so I came up with a way to use heat shrink crimps to encapsulate the device and connect to the wiring.


Unfortunately there were no existing wires going from left engine harness to the cab, so I pulled the harness and added a single pin weatherpack. Could have route through the other two harness, but hopefully this is temporary.

 

[ntsqd]

yes I used assembly grease, also a Driven Racing product.


But also break-in specific oil, same price as the regular hot-rod types. Not an additive.

And then this to keep cam and lifters happy.

Was speculating on source of black stuff, might be from the break-in lube.

As to oil pan, fab is less $$ than buy. Last full bottom pan that I built was very low budget and used metal and some of the shape leftover from the T8 fluorescent light fixture that it was originally.

 

[plain2car]

Justin, thanks for the bracket picks.. it helps alot. the vents look better too...

 

[rattle_snake]

Black stuff, yeah not sure. New rings, carb running rich blowby. The oil didn't smell like fuel though. Existing sludge in oil passages and on block surface.

 

[rattle_snake]

Still fighting a power steering leak at the reservoir return AN fitting. Figured out a better method to drain without making a mess. Sealed the adapter fitting in with red locktite, still leaking. Next guess is the 37* mating surface of the AN, have to drain again and see if there is any indication of a problem.

 

[zmotorsports]

Still fighting a power steering leak at the reservoir return AN fitting. Figured out a better method to drain without making a mess. Sealed the adapter fitting in with red locktite, still leaking. Next guess is the 37* mating surface of the AN, have to drain again and see if there is any indication of a problem.

Justin, when doing brakes on street rods and race cars I used a lot of 37 degree flares and fittings. I found on occasion that one would leak or weep a bit. Sometimes just simply backing off and then making contact with a little tighten and loosen motions to let the sealing surfaces take a "set" is all that is needed to get them to seal properly.

 

[ntsqd]

And if there is damage to either surface and it isn't replaceable there are soft metal gaskets made for 37° fittings. Last that I looked Pegasus Racing carried them, and Summit might.

ETA: Sympathetic to fighting PS system leaks. Currently battling one myself and I've concluded that it must be the rebuilt steering gear. Sent the original off to Lee PS for a real rebuild. I'll see what that gets me.

 

[stockerwithalocker]

And if there is damage to either surface and it isn't replaceable there are soft metal gaskets made for 37° fittings. Last that I looked Pegasus Racing carried them, and Summit might.

ETA: Sympathetic to fighting PS system leaks. Currently battling one myself and I've concluded that it must be the rebuilt steering gear. Sent the original off to Lee PS for a real rebuild. I'll see what that gets me.

We use coppers between our an fittings at work made by seco seal. Seco7 with the c designation for copper.

https://secoseals.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/SECO7-2-scaled.jpg

 

[bugnut]

Just a note from a bystander, once again the brain width of garagejournal comes forth. I never gave thought or heard of gasketing for a 37deg fitting. Thanks

 

[ntsqd]

Normal use they should not be necessary. The AN 37° system is intended to function without a gasket. It is only in extenuating circumstances, like an unreplaceable fitting with a buggered sealing surface, that the gaskets/sealing cone washers are used.

 

[Swanny1953]

I had a gas leak though one of the AN fittings on my ‘40 Chev. Tried the brass crush washer route, but didn’t fix the problem. Ended up having new lines made and getting new bulkhead fittings to solve the issue.

 

[rattle_snake]

I drained the system and removed the suspect fitting from the pump reservoir again. The seal surface had a few imperfections. That would do it. I bought a pair of cheap fittings, one is fine, the other is junk. I got what I paid for I guess. I popped it into the lathe for cleanup, turns out (no pun intended) the surface is far from uniform and had to take a fair amount of material off to get a clean cut all the way around. I cleaned up the threads and reinstalled with a lethal amount of 271. Now it seals properly. On to the oil leak....

 

[rattle_snake]

I drove the truck to work today. If I stop and idle for a bit it will blow a LOT of blue smoke on acceleration. Not sure if it's fuel from being rich or oil from rings or both.

 

[rattle_snake]

Made a cover to hide the battery stickers.

 

[rattle_snake]

After the addition of the latest audio gear, the cabinet door by the speakers has turned into a speaker cone. It vibrates significantly and makes lots of noise. Hard to tell if a speaker is being beaten to death. I added some vertical bracing to cut the large surface area into smaller pieces, which move the vibration/resonant frequency up away from what the subs are outputting. Might need one more.


The other problem was the left main speaker's mount. Too many loose jiggly pieces to allow movement. The enclosure would dance to the beat, not quietly. The 1/2" threated rod was like a guitar string. Zip tied some foam on to dampen. Not sure why the other side doesn't have same issue.

 

[rattle_snake]

I hooked up my brake bleeder apparatus as a 2nd catch can/separator to see if it would reduce the smoke under heavy throttle, and see how much oil it was consuming through the PCV system. Unfortunately it is a lot, oz a mile or so, which would require a BIG catch can. I expected oil in the hose but there wasn't much indicating that the oil is vapor/suspended. Not sure if my wacky heat crossover deal is making thing better or worse than a PCV on the valve cover. I can drill and put one in easy enough. Engine has new rings, but I suspect that they are mostly seated. Hopefully the blowby will reduce some. I bought a cheap 750 ml catch can with baffles, filter, screen, mesh

 

[rattle_snake]

Taking a break from the truck a bit. Made some wall art out of leftover junk. Used the negative of a mustang cutout from my daughters audio system project as the basis. Figured it would be cooler if it was illuminated, so devised a stackup that would accommodate.
I made a frame out of a board that was too short, so the corners are cut off. It didn't fit well and would require work to mount the steel so I cut it back apart and made it slightly smaller with groove to capture the steel on the face. The LED strip adhesive doesn't stick so well to wood, so I put down some foil tape first then a ring of LEDs.


Used some roofing flashing as the backing to be seen through the hole.


Capped with some pressboard to make it more robust and added a hanger.


I used some 3M foam weatherstrip adhesive to secure the metal to the face groove. It kinda looks like tar, crude to go with the theme. The metal is not square and just went with it.


Slathered some polycrylic on the wood and fired it up. Uses an Amp at 12V, which is quite a bit.