rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[ntsqd]

It's a Tilton. Next step up would possibly be an AP. Never been all that impressed with McLeod clutches.
Maybe my standards are out of whack, but 30k seems like a short life. How much power are you pumping thru it?

 

[rattle_snake]

Never heard of Tilton. What actual reason would their product be better, assuming they have what I need?

Any high HP ceramic clutch intended for racing isn't going to have a long life especially when driven aggressively on drag radials or slicks.
Car makes about 550 Tq w/o nitrous, 700 with. OEM clutch only made it 30k. I think I have used up 5+ sets of rear tires for one clutch.

I find is ironic that clutches are rated in hp, as a clutch has nothing to do with time, only torque.

 

[ntsqd]

Tilton has been in the road racing and circle track clutch biz for a long time and is highly regarded. Along the way they've also become one of the go-to's in high HP desert racing. They don't rate they clutches in HP, they rate them in lb-ft torque.

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes at least Tilton uses tq. Mcleod uses both now.
I guess '1000 hp clutch bro...' sounds cooler.

Looks like they have quality products.

I ordered another Mcleod RXT so I can just install it and not have to mess with adjusting the pivot/fork/linkage again. I know how it will perform and feel. They appear to only come with a flywheel now, I stayed with aluminum. Bought a Ford TOB to toss in as well.

Will I put another hard 30k on it? I dunno. Sometimes I just want a newer car but that comes with a monthly payment for a product that deprecates in value. Terminator Cobra value goes up even as I put miles on it.

 

[ntsqd]

Mac Tilton is known to be a character (I'm being gentle) with a very sharp mind (& tongue). He's retired from the biz and last that I knew was pursuing his other hobby, Perazzi class shotguns.

Bolts in with little to no messing about has value.

At some point you just need/want an appliance to get back and forth. I hate that point. "Life's too short to drive boring cars" <-- sticker seen on the rear of a Celica GTS that used to pass me several times a week on the drive home in my mild pre-runner FSB.
I'm starting to think that an all stock 5.3 LS powered Vega Wagon would make a good commuter....... Probably should build the two projects inline ahead of it first, either of which will make an OK-ish commuter.

 

[rattle_snake]

"Life's too short to drive boring cars"

I need 500+ hp that hooks to get to work and back, happily. Or something like that.
Cobra is the summer weather commuter and the old trucks & motorcycles for the rest of the year.

My 1st car was an '84 Celica GTS. 22RE 5 spd. slow but impressive audio system. Did a clutch myself at 16 on that car.

 

[Mark_17]

Check the wear on the input shaft. When we dropped the trans on my friends ~800hp propcharged fire chicken, the Mcleod had a small contact area on the input shaft and it was heavily worn.

WARNING! McLeod RXT Serious flaw in design/manufacturing - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

General LSX Automobile Discussion - WARNING! McLeod RXT Serious flaw in design/manufacturing - Ok, not sure where to start. But to make a long story short, I went through 4 McLeod RXT and two RST clutches with my turbocharged LS swapped Toyota w/ a T56 Magnum in a matter of 20k miles. During...

ls1tech.com

This was the same issue he experienced. We both use Monster clutches and have had really good experiences .

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for the heads up, will see what has happened when I open it up.

Bought from Summit racing so returns are easy If I change my mind on what clutch to run.

 

[rattle_snake]

After seeing some professional level mechanic stools like the viper, I realized what a flaming pile the stool I have is. Bad knees **** and a stool can be very helpful when having to work close to the ground for a period of time. @PugetDude made a nice setup for a lot less so I figured I could trud polish mine.

The typical cheapest flimsy import junk. Had some leftover 3" casters


The casters are ****, and two had snapped off. So I did a janky repair and welded a stud to the broken stud.


The frame was 3 pieces for knockdown packaging. Solid as a wet noodle. Welded it up.


Added a piece of scrap bedframe angle to connect the ends and make a loop.


One issue with the stool is that it is too small, too short, base not wide enough. Why the casters failed. Maybe I should eat less.
So I widened the track width and strectched the wheelbase.
I also cut the corners off the casters so they don't stick out as far.


Cleaned and painted blue to go with the North side equipment. Removed the caster brakes.


Put the *** pad back on and tried it out. Rolls so much better, wow. Sits about an inch taller which helps.


Next step it to recover the seat pad, and perhaps make a back rest.

 

[rattle_snake]

Have some leftover automation parts. Plan to make a horizontal rotary positioner for continuous welding link bars.

 

[zmotorsports]

Very tidy looking job on the drill press VFD Justin.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Mike. I'm happy with the way it came out. Better than the previous version, symmetrical. Fun project.

 

[rattle_snake]

I should focus on finishing out the CNC router project, but I'm a little burned out on it. Last step is workflow. Pick a CAM solution, figure out the process. As a distraction, add more power to power tools.

My neighbor got this HF belt/disc sander, didn't have space for it so it's been at my shop for a long time. I made a crude stand. It works and does stuff, but not very well. The disc side is useless IMO, so I removed it. The 1/3 hp motor stall easily and in general the tool is underpowered. Happened to have a 1 hp single phase motor available, so you can guess what the plan is here. The larger motor is not enclosed, which is not really appropriate for the application but it's what I've got. My 2x72 belt grinder has a non-enclosed motor and it has lasted a long time in the rough environment.


The belt side can pivot and be vertical or horizontal. The larger motor won't fit in the same space so design is open to either configuration.
The sander mechanism in general is light duty, plastic wheels. Can't really speed it up too much or load it heavily. It came with really tiny pulleys which are not ideal in that they have minimal belt contact which limits power delivery capacity. A bigger motor pulley will increase belt speed, so decided to change the driven side from a 40 mm to a 60 mm. The shaft is 11 mm, which isn't too common, but I was able to find one. The motor/drive side will get a similar sized pulley for the 5/8" keyway shaft, 2.5" or 63.5 mm. So a minimal overdrive ratio of 5% to start with. The motor can go below or behind the main body, have to pick a path.

 

[PugetDude]

I should focus on finishing out the CNC router project, but I'm a little burned out on it. Last step is workflow. Pick a CAM solution, figure out the process. As a distraction, add more power to power tools.

My neighbor got this HF belt/disc sander, didn't have space for it so it's been at my shop for a long time. I made a crude stand. It works and does stuff, but not very well. The disc side is useless IMO, so I removed it. The 1/3 hp motor stall easily and in general the tool is underpowered. Happened to have a 1 hp single phase motor available, so you can guess what the plan is here. The larger motor is not enclosed, which is not really appropriate for the application but it's what I've got. My 2x72 belt grinder has a non-enclosed motor and it has lasted a long time in the rough environment.


The belt side can pivot and be vertical or horizontal. The larger motor won't fit in the same space so design is open to either configuration.
The sander mechanism in general is light duty, plastic wheels. Can't really speed it up too much or load it heavily. It came with really tiny pulleys which are not ideal in that they have minimal belt contact which limits power delivery capacity. A bigger motor pulley will increase belt speed, so decided to change the driven side from a 40 mm to a 60 mm. The shaft is 11 mm, which isn't too common, but I was able to find one. The motor/drive side will get a similar sized pulley for the 5/8" keyway shaft, 2.5" or 63.5 mm. So a minimal overdrive ratio of 5% to start with. The motor can go below or behind the main body, have to pick a path.

Where are you going to put the nitrous injectors?

 

[SMOKEYBEAR]

I'd be burned out on the CNC router project as well. I've been following along as a spectator, might as well be written in hieroglyphics.

The belt grinder project here...on a dual level ( like a step) mounting surface, the motor could be located in the same position with the motor on the lower surface. The step would just have to account for the difference of the height of the two motors.

Edit, or a spacer to elevate the belt component above the new larger motor using the factory base plate in the background of the last photo if it has enough length to accommodate the new motor.

 

[rattle_snake]

Where are you going to put the nitrous injectors?

I haven't considered that part of the project. yet.

I'd be burned out on the CNC router project as well. I've been following along as a spectator, might as well be written in hieroglyphics.

The belt grinder project here...on a dual level ( like a step) mounting surface, the motor could be located in the same position with the motor on the lower surface. The step would just have to account for the difference of the height of the two motors.

Edit, or a spacer to elevate the belt component above the new larger motor using the factory base plate in the background of the last photo if it has enough length to accommodate the new motor.

I've had to learn a lot of stuff on the CNC router project. Figure it out as I go.

Yup, that is about what I ended up with.

 

[rattle_snake]

Picked a path for the sander build. Going to keep it horizontal, as I think it is easier to build that way. I made the 2x72 grinder vertical and mounted the motor on the pole with unistrut. Didn't like it enough to do it again.
Made a design in CAD and baked in bend deductions. Some day I'll have to figure out the right way to design bent things. A simple step design, with a skirt for rigidity. 1/8" steel.


Not perfect but came out ok. I need to remember that my press brake has a minimum bend-to-bend spacing and design accordingly.


Added a flange to bolt the pole to, that still allows access to the bolts inside.


Cut a 5x4.5 lug pattern to mount the pole to a mustang wheel.


Repurposed a leg from an axle stand that already had a 2 bolt flange on it. Cut to length and made end threaded with a nut and washer welded on.




Made an upgraded workpiece rest out of 1/4 SS, tig welded. 2 bolts instead of just one.


Abandoned the sideways switch provisions inside the casting and mounted a safety switch on the outside.


In vertical configuration


Waiting on a pulley for the driven side, then need to figure out a belt and a belt guard.

 

[rattle_snake]

Riding mower wouldn't start the other day, so tried to jump it with the tractor. Would start and run by die after a few seconds. The whole front end is covered in a fuel smelling goo. I just added fuel but tank is almost empty. No puddle. hmmm.
Can't put it in neutral so used tractor forks to just carry it over to the shop for diagnosis.

I removed the carb, cleaned everything and put it back together without the air cleaner assembly so I could see what is happening. Battery was shot so bought a replacement and replaced most of the terminals. Engine would start but made a lot of SMOKE. Shut it down, fuel dripping but from where? Fired again and the crankcasse vent shot a stream of fuel out.

Ahhh, engine full of fuel. wonderful. Love carburetors.

 

[rattle_snake]

Drained the mower crankcase fluid and put oil back in. Cleaned up the muffler and chassis to make it easier to see what exactly is smoking. Starts and runs OK. Ran for a short time and shut down for oil and filter change. But it runs.

I pulled the carb apart and the needle and seat looked ok. All clean inside. I assume if it has enough fuel in tank the pressure will push through the float and flood the crank. The carb did come with a shutoff solenoid that leaked, so I made a 'temporary' plug, long time ago. Seems that would help prevent this issue. Maybe the carb float is intentionally set that way, engine must be running. Cheap thing to put back on, then fill fuel tank.

 

[ntsqd]

With my pressure washer I can turn off the fuel from going into the carb. I deliberately run the bowl dry while idling after every use. Possible to do the same?

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes I suppose I could do that. The valve is just on keyed power, supposed to prevent backfire after shut down. But it has always backfired occasionally with or without the valve. The mower gets used all year, frequently so the carb doesn't need to be run dry like other things.

 

[ntsqd]

Ah! Manual valve on the washer.
Being me, I run it dry every time that I use it or for sure when I think that I'm going to use it again in an hour it turns into 1,378 of them.

 

[zmotorsports]

Picked a path for the sander build. Going to keep it horizontal, as I think it is easier to build that way. I made the 2x72 grinder vertical and mounted the motor on the pole with unistrut. Didn't like it enough to do it again.
Made a design in CAD and baked in bend deductions. Some day I'll have to figure out the right way to design bent things. A simple step design, with a skirt for rigidity. 1/8" steel.


Not perfect but came out ok. I need to remember that my press brake has a minimum bend-to-bend spacing and design accordingly.


Added a flange to bolt the pole to, that still allows access to the bolts inside.


Cut a 5x4.5 lug pattern to mount the pole to a mustang wheel.


Repurposed a leg from an axle stand that already had a 2 bolt flange on it. Cut to length and made end threaded with a nut and washer welded on.




Made an upgraded workpiece rest out of 1/4 SS, tig welded. 2 bolts instead of just one.


Abandoned the sideways switch provisions inside the casting and mounted a safety switch on the outside.


In vertical configuration


Waiting on a pulley for the driven side, then need to figure out a belt and a belt guard.

Nice job on the belt sander Justin. Good alteration on going with the industrial start/stop switch, those are my switch of choice for machinery as well.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Mike. Have to be extra careful with machines like this. Can get thin material wedged under the workpiece rest, so a quick shutdown may be needed at some point.

Driven pulley arrived, but I didn't look closely enough at the dimensions and it is very narrow, 4 mm. Less than half the size of the other and typical 1/2 belt. Not going to work at all.

The 11 mm shaft size is kinda odd. Considering making a adapter sleeve for the driven side to use a standard and readily available 5/8 pulley.