rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[TTMotorsports]

Hey Justin, I just noticed that your utility trailer is a PJ Trailer. I am looking at one of their car hauler flatbeds. Have you been happy with their work as far as trailers go? I've crawled under and all over the ones here that I've seen and they seem to be very well built. We also have a couple of local trailer builders here that I could get one just a little cheaper but so far I don't think they compare to the PJ's that I have looked at. I would like your opinion if you don't mind.

Thanks.

Don't want to derail his thread but I have a PJ 22ft B6 Car trailer. It is a beast and VERY well made. I have 2 other friends with their B5 car trailers as well. Dexter axles with the easy grease fittings, good welds, powdercoated frame. overall very happy with the trailer. MUCH MUCH MUCH nicer than the carson and big tex I have used in the past.

Only issue one friend is having is that 3 different weld seam areas the powdercoating is flaking off or rust is coming up because of bad prep on powdercoat. Easy fix to grind and paint that area for them though.

 

[MP&C]

sub'd

 

[zmotorsports]

Don't want to derail his thread but I have a PJ 22ft B6 Car trailer. It is a beast and VERY well made. I have 2 other friends with their B5 car trailers as well. Dexter axles with the easy grease fittings, good welds, powdercoated frame. overall very happy with the trailer. MUCH MUCH MUCH nicer than the carson and big tex I have used in the past.

Only issue one friend is having is that 3 different weld seam areas the powdercoating is flaking off or rust is coming up because of bad prep on powdercoat. Easy fix to grind and paint that area for them though.

Thank you for the feedback. I too had a Big Tex (20') for many years and although it did the tasks I asked of it I wasn't all that impressed overall. I was going to just fabricate one to match my utility trailer that I built several years ago but I don't have the time and to be honest have been quite surprised at the pricing once I started looking.

Thanks again for the feedback.

 

[rattle_snake]

Getting caught up on this thread. Didn't realize I wasn't subscribed.

Treasure that time with your dad my friend! I'd give anything for 1 more day of wrenching with mine!

Nice work making the trailer "yours". It amazes me how some people just live with things "as-is".

I got our bikes out of cold storage and running a few weeks ago, haven't put any real time on them yet, however.

My dad has back/neck issues and was unable to walk just a few months ago, had a surgery. Didn't know if he would be able to travel anymore. Definitely changes one's perspective.

I pretty much have to modify everything especially if it has wheels.

'cold storage'? like a walk in freezer?

 

[rattle_snake]

Hey Justin, I just noticed that your utility trailer is a PJ Trailer. I am looking at one of their car hauler flatbeds. Have you been happy with their work as far as trailers go? I've crawled under and all over the ones here that I've seen and they seem to be very well built. We also have a couple of local trailer builders here that I could get one just a little cheaper but so far I don't think they compare to the PJ's that I have looked at. I would like your opinion if you don't mind.

Thanks.

Mike,
I'm very pleased with the PJ products. I looked at some others and the build/quality difference is noticeable for not much more $. Heavier material, better coupler, jack, a spare with a stout mount, Dexter axle and so on. The design of the latches, hinges and removable deck rails show PJs experience and expertise.
Many of the cheaper, smaller utility trailers flex a lot at the tongue/front of the deck. My polaris quad is 750lb and was rock solid over some nasty roads. Very happy.

I had a PJ dovetail car trailer for my drag car and bronco and was very happy with it as well. Definitely recommend their product, even bought another myself. An old pic of it in action.

 

[rattle_snake]

Why ain’t I been subscribed to this one!

So many similar lines of thinking!

My wife thinks I'm crazy, so you might be too!

 

[rattle_snake]

Don't want to derail his thread but I have a PJ 22ft B6 Car trailer. It is a beast and VERY well made. I have 2 other friends with their B5 car trailers as well. Dexter axles with the easy grease fittings, good welds, powdercoated frame. overall very happy with the trailer. MUCH MUCH MUCH nicer than the carson and big tex I have used in the past.

Only issue one friend is having is that 3 different weld seam areas the powdercoating is flaking off or rust is coming up because of bad prep on powdercoat. Easy fix to grind and paint that area for them though.

No worries, thanks for sharing ans stopping in. Good luck with your new building.

sub'd

Given your capabilities and accomplishments that's an honor. Like many others I lurk and steal ideas from your threads. Thanks!

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike,
I'm very pleased with the PJ products. I looked at some others and the build/quality difference is noticeable for not much more $. Heavier material, better coupler, jack, a spare with a stout mount, Dexter axle and so on. The design of the latches, hinges and removable deck rails show PJs experience and expertise.
Many of the cheaper, smaller utility trailers flex a lot at the tongue/front of the deck. My polaris quad is 750lb and was rock solid over some nasty roads. Very happy.

I had a PJ dovetail car trailer for my drag car and bronco and was very happy with it as well. Definitely recommend their product, even bought another myself. An old pic of it in action.

Thanks for the reply and feedback Justin. Sorry to sidetrack your thread with trivial trailer questions but I really appreciate the information.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

That Bronco........

 

[rattle_snake]

That Bronco........

It went to a good home....
Bought it stock and did a few 'modifications' over the 8 years I had it. Used the $ to buy a bigger/faster boat when my kids were little which got way more family enjoyment than the bronco would have.
I'm afraid my 72 F250 may snowball similarly, but with a big block, 'tons & 40s

 

[rattle_snake]

Ended up using some simple pieces of 1-1/4 pipe for motorcycle wheel chocks. The removable rails made it easy to do welding on the table. Was planning to put PVC pipe caps on them but works well enough without.

The rail system has captive fasteners of all one size and decent quality. There is so much cheap junk available today it's refreshing to see something done right.

 

[nsula_country]

O I C now...

At first when you posted the pics of your new trailer, I wondered why the vertical uprights had holes in them. Thought they were for ratchet binder hooks. Had NO idea that they were adjustable/removable.

On most trailers, the top rail is structural to stiffen the light gauge frame.

CT

 

[rattle_snake]

The rails are removable, but not adjustable up and down.
The holes in the up-rights are for hooks and are very handy. I was going to weld single links of chain all over for tie-down points but no need on this trailer. Interestingly it also has stake pockets.

Loaded up 460 block and crank to drop off at machine shop. Heads went to WA state to get ported and rebuilt. Trans will go out soon for build.
That means the critical path is going to be the truck itself so need to sell the motor and trans while still running in the truck and then tear it down. Lots of logistics for removing and storing the bed, hood, cab and so on someplace other than inside the shop.

 

[cspcrx]

Rattle Snake did you install your own Ductless AC? What unit do you have and are you happy with it in the AZ heat? I am in Peoria and as it get closer to summer I wish more and more I had one. I don't have a separate shop just a 4 car attached garage, fully insulated, and struggle with working in there during the summer months.

 

[rattle_snake]

Rattle Snake did you install your own Ductless AC? What unit do you have and are you happy with it in the AZ heat? I am in Peoria and as it get closer to summer I wish more and more I had one. I don't have a separate shop just a 4 car attached garage, fully insulated, and struggle with working in there during the summer months.

Yes I did most of the install. Perhaps I'm a control freak.
There are details of it in my shop build thread starting about here
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=318925&page=28

I put in a pair of Daikin 18k units. They are cheap to run, maybe $25/month. A/C is a game changer, I'm very happy with them and the control HW/app to program like a thermostat.
I highly recommend a mini-split in your garage, you will love it and won't dread working in the summer anymore. Just have to mitigate moving vehicles in and out at times. I would guess an 18-24k unit would be enough for your 4 car.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Rattle Snake did you install your own Ductless AC? What unit do you have and are you happy with it in the AZ heat? I am in Peoria and as it get closer to summer I wish more and more I had one. I don't have a separate shop just a 4 car attached garage, fully insulated, and struggle with working in there during the summer months.

Not to **** in, but I installed mine myself (Panasonic) and it's the best money you can spend on your garage. The install is cake if you have 230v electric close by. The only thing you will want to do is pay someone to pull a vacuum on the system and charge it.

 

[cspcrx]

Thanks guys. I have 230, when I had my sub panel installed in my garage I installed it on an exterior wall and ran large enough wire. My electrician said it would be easy to add an exterior box outside below it.

Where did you guys buy your systems?

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Mine came from a friend that works in distribution, so I was given a decent deal as they were switching product lines. You ordinarily need to be registered contractor to buy through them. I'd order it online if you don't have a contractor connection. Sigler or RE Michaels are probably 2 of the biggest in town.

 

[nsula_country]

The rails are removable, but not adjustable up and down.
The holes in the up-rights are for hooks and are very handy. I was going to weld single links of chain all over for tie-down points but no need on this trailer. Interestingly it also has stake pockets.

On most of my trailers I have welded a 3/8 chain link then used a "quick link" as the hook point.

Loaded up 460 block and crank to drop off at machine shop. Heads went to WA state to get ported and rebuilt. Trans will go out soon for build.
That means the critical path is going to be the truck itself so need to sell the motor and trans while still running in the truck and then tear it down. Lots of logistics for removing and storing the bed, hood, cab and so on someplace other than inside the shop.

I'm confused. You are rebuilding the engine/trans in the truck or another engine/trans that you will put in the truck for the transformation? You may have expressed this earlier and I missed it...

CT

 

[rattle_snake]

Not to **** in, but I installed mine myself (Panasonic) and it's the best money you can spend on your garage. The install is cake if you have 230v electric close by. The only thing you will want to do is pay someone to pull a vacuum on the system and charge it.

No problem, great advice!

Thanks guys. I have 230, when I had my sub panel installed in my garage I installed it on an exterior wall and ran large enough wire. My electrician said it would be easy to add an exterior box outside below it.

Where did you guys buy your systems?

I got my stuff through a friend who owns an A/C business. Send me a PM for contact info if you would like.

I'm confused. You are rebuilding the engine/trans in the truck or another engine/trans that you will put in the truck for the transformation? You may have expressed this earlier and I missed it...
CT

I'm building a 460 for the F250 and going to sell the 390 it has now. I like FEs, but the 460 is less money for more power.
More specifically, more torque down low due to the extra cubes and can still use factory crank/rod/heads and so on.

 

[cspcrx]

PM sent thanks

 

[rattle_snake]

With 460 sent off to machine shop I was able to bring my engine stand up to my appearance standards. The Home Depot/Harbor Freight orange paint was simply unacceptable. It did hold the engine off the ground but was irritating.

So I disassembled and gave it a quick paint job. De-burred the holes, broke all sharp edges, standard OCD stuff.
Also added some spacers to the rear axles to center the wheels.


And some fresh SAE hardware to replace the metric fasteners, well, just because. Also found a 1/2 bend hitch pin for the head in yellow zinc to match.

 

[rattle_snake]

Upgraded my engine hoist with a (gasp) 'HF' air-over-hydraulic ram. I borrowed the idea from a member here, who shall remain nameless, in his 'Barndominium' thread. I fully blame him for the money spend on it just like the welding table project....


The existing ram leaked badly out of the release valve, so could not be left installed on the hoist. This made it a pain to use, and made a mess all over the floor. So I convinced myself that the purchase was justified. Uh, safety, ya that's it. Like the engine stand, I got the hoist for free from a friend long ago.

As stated in the previous post orange tools are unacceptable so naturally the ram had to be repainted immediately. I fought off the urge to repaint the entire hoist (for now) as it is already a permissible color scheme and there are other machines in violation that should be corrected first.
Anyhow, the AOH function is great making the tool more useful and convenient. Hoping to use the hoist more often to avoid injury as I get old and things fall apart.


Also made a release valve knob on the lathe, so I don't have to fumble with the handle to lower a load. Up and down easy with one hand.

*scratch in paint was intentional to match the rest of the vintage hoist

 

[OutlawDrifter]

"Don't 'antique' the equipment"

Those words come to mind for some reason...


AOH will definitely make installing the BBF much more enjoyable! I guess maybe I should try that out next time I pull my hoist out. I'm still on the hunt for a discount priced (used) gantry crane to put in my shop.

 

[bradpac]

Air over hydraulic is great, especially if you're a one man band. I bought a Larin engine hoist 15 years ago with one, still going strong. Being able to stand at the engine and raise it up and tug on it at the same time is a big convenience. If only it had a remote bleed to let it down as well.

 

[nsula_country]

When I buy a harbor freight shop hoist... I'm also buying the AOH cylinder. Should be an option.

CT

 

[rattle_snake]

The unthinkable has happened.

It seemed that life was going OK. Sometimes events happen that we cannot foresee.
I never though I would have to come out and say this.

I own a Chevy.


Of course I know better. I've considered therapy but in denial at this point. Outlaw drifter bought a F150 and a Mach 1 so why not?

2001 Burb with only 200k, 5.3

Why? Why would a Ford guy do such a thing?
It was cheap, really cheap.
The real reason?
Mrs. rattle_snake enjoys taking her horses out riding and sharing one truck wasn't working. The 72 Ford solved this issue but is about to be blown apart and under construction for the next year or so. So this is our local scab tow vehicle that can be left connected to the horse trailer. Doubt it will get more than 500 miles over the next year.

 

[zmotorsports]

The unthinkable has happened.

It seemed that life was going OK. Sometimes events happen that we cannot foresee.
I never though I would have to come out and say this.

I own a Chevy.


Of course I know better. I've considered therapy but in denial at this point. Outlaw drifter bought a F150 and a Mach 1 so why not?

2001 Burb with only 200k, 5.3

Why? Why would a Ford guy do such a thing?
It was cheap, really cheap.
The real reason?
Mrs. rattle_snake enjoys taking her horses out riding and sharing one truck wasn't working. The 72 Ford solved this issue but is about to be blown apart and under construction for the next year or so. So this is our local scab tow vehicle that can be left connected to the horse trailer. Doubt it will get more than 500 miles over the next year.

Justin, you'll be selling those damn Fords now once you start driving that Chevy.

We all go through it. I was stupid once and bought not one Ford but two.... Hard lessons have be learned and experienced.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Justin, hit me up when you need a tow.

 

[zmotorsports]

Justin, hit me up when you need a tow.

And the jokes will just keep coming.

I have a co-worker that is a full blown Ford guy and he and I are constantly sending texts back and forth with memes pertaining to the Ford vs. Chevy debate. The things we do to keep ourselves entertained.

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, you'll be selling those damn Fords now once you start driving that Chevy.

We all go through it. I was stupid once and bought not one Ford but two.... Hard lessons have be learned and experienced.

Hard lesson in progress. I just figured you went Chevy due to a head injury or senility.

Justin, hit me up when you need a tow.

Thanks, I'm at Dobson & Chandler Blvd. See you soon.

And the jokes will just keep coming.

I have a co-worker that is a full blown Ford guy and he and I are constantly sending texts back and forth with memes pertaining to the Ford vs. Chevy debate. The things we do to keep ourselves entertained.

Yes, the things we do to keep ourselves entertained. Been going on for over 100 years now. I even have friends that think Ram/Dodge is the way to go. What do you even say to them?

 

[zmotorsports]

Yes, the things we do to keep ourselves entertained. Been going on for over 100 years now. I even have friends that think Ram/Dodge is the way to go. What do you even say to them?

My father in law is a Dodge Ram guy. When he bought his new truck two years ago he went on and on about it being "loaded". I asked if he got the heated tailgate option. Without thinking he said "yep". Then he asked "what, heated tailgate"? I said yes, the heated tailgate so when your friends are pushing it their hands don't get cold.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

The unthinkable has happened.

It seemed that life was going OK. Sometimes events happen that we cannot foresee.
I never though I would have to come out and say this.

I own a Chevy.


Of course I know better. I've considered therapy but in denial at this point. Outlaw drifter bought a F150 and a Mach 1 so why not?

2001 Burb with only 200k, 5.3

Why? Why would a Ford guy do such a thing?
It was cheap, really cheap.
The real reason?
Mrs. rattle_snake enjoys taking her horses out riding and sharing one truck wasn't working. The 72 Ford solved this issue but is about to be blown apart and under construction for the next year or so. So this is our local scab tow vehicle that can be left connected to the horse trailer. Doubt it will get more than 500 miles over the next year.

Please let me begin my 3 part response:

1.

2. Welcome to the LS world and all it has to offer...let it sink in for a while, celebrate it, in all its glory.

3. Justin, at least now you'll have something big enough to car pool in when all the Fords let you down...

Wow, never thought I would see the day, as long as you stay away from the MOPAR products, I won't ever question your sanity.

How big of a horse trailer are we talking? Might be a good investment now, to put a larger aux ****** cooler in place. I have found that all of my LS stuff really likes Castrol oil, just an FYI.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

As long as your wife has a horse in the trailer, she should at least have a ride home from the repair shop......

I hope she knows how to run a team of horses, cause I have a feeling they will be pulling the Burb, more than the Burb will be pulling them......


True story, when I was in college I buried my F350 in the mud off of Baseline and Sossaman road trying to recover a friends Dodge 2500. For some reason another buddy showed up in a Chevy. We all left that night after hours of digging, but only 2 of us left with our front ends in tact (not hard to figure out who's blew an axle). I tried to get my uncle to pull us out with a backhoe, but he wouldn't do it in fear of losing his contractor's license. He later told me plan B was to hook up the mule team to extract our trucks.

 

[rattle_snake]

...How big of a horse trailer are we talking? Might be a good investment now, to put a larger aux ****** cooler in place. I have found that all of my LS stuff really likes Castrol oil, just an FYI.

just a 3 horse slant but trailer can get up to 7k. Burb has E tires but needs a brake controller. It's just for short in distances from home (<20 miles) no hills.

...We all left that night after hours of digging, but only 2 of us left with our front ends in tact (not hard to figure out who's blew an axle)...

Clearly the GM front end was never meant for off road (ab)use. There is a reason you can buy SAS kits to retrofit a Ford D60 into a Chevy. That said the IFS is fine for even the tallest mall crawler.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

4L60E trans is the weakest link on the burb. Just trying to save you some headache, with your heat I would still do a cooler.

I pulled a show trailer and a smaller single axle all over KS, CO, MO, and IA with a similar burb. 250k miles, before we traded it for a new one at work. One of the welders bought it 7 years ago and is still driving it.

 

[zmotorsports]

4L60E trans is the weakest link on the burb. Just trying to save you some headache, with your heat I would still do a cooler.

I pulled a show trailer and a smaller single axle all over KS, CO, MO, and IA with a similar burb. 250k miles, before we traded it for a new one at work. One of the welders bought it 7 years ago and is still driving it.

Agreed, I would definitely put an auxiliary trans cooler on it, but then again I put them on about everything because I don't think the OEM coolers are adequate as soon as you do anything above freeway daily driving.

The 4L60E gets a bad rap but it is actually a good transmission if you keep it cool. I've built many of them from the late 80's into mid-90's beefing them up but the later model ones are pretty decent from the factory if you don't overheat or abuse them. However, that can be said about any of the transmissions though. My sister's Tahoe with the 5.3/4L60E engine had 225k on it when she sold it and now is nearing 300k with only routine maintenance and a few normal wear items so they can go the distance if maintained.

 

[rattle_snake]

After much deliberation I made a decision on materials for my furniture project. Going to make a TV stand, coffee table, pair of end tables and a bookshelf. Picked up 175 bdft of 'used' oak in 6/4 and 8/4. Style will be simple and robust, like build with simple hand tools and local available materials long ago. No fancy router profiles or shiny surfaces. Just thick *** planks with character. No fasteners, instead rabbets, dados and dowels.

Should keep me busy for awhile, and slow progress on the F250. Woodworking and engine building should be done simultaneously in the same area anyhow.

 

[nsula_country]

Welcome to the dark side. I felt the same way when the 75 Ford followed me home. But on the bright side, it's not a Dodge or as I think they call them now "Ram".

I had a 2001 K1500 truck. 5.3L/4L60. Never put a cooler on it, but did install a B&W gooseneck hitch. Pulled tractors, equipment and round bales. Up to 13 bales at a time on a flat deck trailer.

Sold it to a co-worker with 199k on it. He occasionally pulls a John Deere 350 dozer with it. Transmission has only had regular, synthetic Valvoline fluid changes. Rear end has slack. Lots of slack!

Not the best picture of it working hard, but you get the idea of what I put that 1/2 ton through. Tractor 10k, trailer 3.3k, 13,300 lb load. Half ton Chevy. A Ford would have left its drivetrain on the pavement.

Good trailer brakes were a must. The single piston rear calipers on the truck were "adequate" when unloaded, useless loaded. Some had 2 piston calipers. No rhyme or reason which vehicles got 1 vs 2 piston. This truck was 4x4 with tow package, 1 piston.

72 HP Tractor

View media item 92883
CT

 

[rattle_snake]

Cool thanks for sharing Curt.

Spent some time this weekend getting the Burb ready for duty. Changed the oil, and rotated tires. Found one rear brake pad at the limit, so installed a new set of pads. It has the dual piston calipers.
While doing the brakes I noticed that the rear u-joint had slack in it, which corellated with a clunk in the drive line when getting on/off the throttle. I pulled the driveshaft and found a broken joint cap void of any needle bearings. Used my new ball joint/ ujoint press to install a new joint. Would have **** out the shaft and wrecked the yolk in not too many more miles.

Also installed an electric brake controller and a backup camera for Mrs. rattle_snake.
The lift and the right tools made all these jobs so much easier. I would not have been so thrilled to tackle these projects without them.

The burb drove OK with empty trailer, so we loaded a horse and checked the squat, then another and a test drive. All was OK and should handle 3rd horse in the rear of trailer fine as there is no more tongue weight than 1 or 2.

Burb in it's natural habitat


Also changed oil in the Cobra (at only 2200 miles) and removed the rear wheels for a new set of rubber. Got 4100 miles out of this set of M/T ET streets S/S's. I drive 'gently' on them until I see cords coming through then another few hundred miles including some long smokey burnouts to finish them off. Got to get my money's worth! The line lock makes starting a burnout smooth and the car will lay down some impressively long and curvy patches.

Interestingly, traction doesn't deteriorate much as the tread wears. Even completely bald they hook up very well.
Front tires are 8 years old now and have 20k on them. This is 5th set of rear tires....