dthor68
Well-known member
I appreciate that rattle_snake! Nice looking shop.
rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1
- Thread starter rattle_snake
- Start date
I appreciate that rattle_snake! Nice looking shop.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Another busy weekend in the shop fixing broken stuff and finishing things the right way. Seems like I had to work on almost everything with wheels and a battery. Without A/C I would just complain and procrastinate until cooler weather.
Decided to change mufflers again on my cobra. For last 5 years I have had Magnaflow 14"x4" round (aka magnapak) mufflers in Bolra tubing. Like the Bolra stinger mufflers (5"x10"), the round MF did little muffling and were loud as F in all conditions. The only aspect I didn't really like was the blatty sound at high load/low rpm. Raspy would be the word flatbillers would use, bro.
So it was time for change. I bought the largest case (oval 14x9x4) straight through mufflers that would fit to quiet things down. MF makes a cat back with these, but I'm cheap and have a welder. The cobra's IRS needs a offset/offset on the same side so this narrows muffler possibilities down a lot. MF had this muffler available only in polished for extra $30. The polish is done before the mufflers are welded so half-assed, really. I was concerned that since the perforated internal tube was so close to one side of the case they wouldn't attenuate well and may be too similar to the round. The perforated tube actually makes a curve to get it away from the wall, and results are quiet different.
I like the adjustability of the Bolra tubing, but the original design put the short muffler in an odd place. I adapted the longer magnapaks in as best I could and tig welded them myself (1st attempt at tig welding). To get the new oval muffs centered in the floor pan cavity, I bought a length of SS pipe to add as needed.
Left side mocked up. Only needed a small wedge to connect the tailpipe.
Once adjusted so all hangers were neutral, the right side tail pipe was hitting the diff brace so I hit it with the grinder until it cleared.
I was not able to find 309 mig/tig locally so I ended up getting a roll of ER308L mig wire and used with C25, at 110V, on autoset (yes, I broke all the rules). It welds for me just like mild steel, fast and ugly. I tacked on the car and finish welded on the bench.
I refrained from grinding all the welds and polishing the tubing. I had previously polished the tail pipes, but didn't have half a day to spend turd polishing. No one ever sees the bottom of the car, except for all of you.
So, how does it sound?
Idle: little quieter
part throttle cruise: much quieter, drone is gone
Low rpm/high load: rasp is gone
WOT: similar, LOUD
Decided to change mufflers again on my cobra. For last 5 years I have had Magnaflow 14"x4" round (aka magnapak) mufflers in Bolra tubing. Like the Bolra stinger mufflers (5"x10"), the round MF did little muffling and were loud as F in all conditions. The only aspect I didn't really like was the blatty sound at high load/low rpm. Raspy would be the word flatbillers would use, bro.
So it was time for change. I bought the largest case (oval 14x9x4) straight through mufflers that would fit to quiet things down. MF makes a cat back with these, but I'm cheap and have a welder. The cobra's IRS needs a offset/offset on the same side so this narrows muffler possibilities down a lot. MF had this muffler available only in polished for extra $30. The polish is done before the mufflers are welded so half-assed, really. I was concerned that since the perforated internal tube was so close to one side of the case they wouldn't attenuate well and may be too similar to the round. The perforated tube actually makes a curve to get it away from the wall, and results are quiet different.
I like the adjustability of the Bolra tubing, but the original design put the short muffler in an odd place. I adapted the longer magnapaks in as best I could and tig welded them myself (1st attempt at tig welding). To get the new oval muffs centered in the floor pan cavity, I bought a length of SS pipe to add as needed.
Left side mocked up. Only needed a small wedge to connect the tailpipe.
Once adjusted so all hangers were neutral, the right side tail pipe was hitting the diff brace so I hit it with the grinder until it cleared.
I was not able to find 309 mig/tig locally so I ended up getting a roll of ER308L mig wire and used with C25, at 110V, on autoset (yes, I broke all the rules). It welds for me just like mild steel, fast and ugly. I tacked on the car and finish welded on the bench.
I refrained from grinding all the welds and polishing the tubing. I had previously polished the tail pipes, but didn't have half a day to spend turd polishing. No one ever sees the bottom of the car, except for all of you.
So, how does it sound?
Idle: little quieter
part throttle cruise: much quieter, drone is gone
Low rpm/high load: rasp is gone
WOT: similar, LOUD
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Justin....you've officially got "the old," but don't worry I'm right there with ya! I bet it sounds much smoother with those mufflers.
H-pipe and "better" mufflers are in the future for my '49. The true dual Smithy's have run their course of "nostalgic want".
H-pipe and "better" mufflers are in the future for my '49. The true dual Smithy's have run their course of "nostalgic want".
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Haha, yes I am going through the acceptance phase of being old. I made it to 41 with a ridiculously loud pipes and blasting stereo. Some day I'll grow up, but the bikes, boat and old truck will still be obnoxious until further notice.
I drove a big, loud & smokey 7.3 diesel for a long time. When I got the super quiet 6.7L, I realized the benefits like being able to have a conversation or order a hamburger. Or hook up a trailer without suffocating in diesel fumes. It was the beginning of the old I guess.
Now that the drone is gone I can hear the rear end noise very well, so it's still not good for long trips. Somebody (me) replaced the failed rubber differential and IRS cradle bushings with solid ones to survive 6000 RPM clutch drops at the drag strip on slicks.
Then camber caster plates in front. handles great, but tons of road noise.
Last edited:
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
I got passed by a Mustang on Val Vista and Elliott last week and I couldn't help but think how obnoxiously loud it was.......then I thought, damn I'm getting old!
I think it hits in your mid 30's. I find all my friends are going with quiet exhausts these days. My buddy got an exhaust given to him by a well known performance company to run on his race UTV. The first time I saw it I said "that looks badass" and he responded "if it's too loud the factory exhaust is going right back on". This guy dailys a Cummins and had an LS powered Nissan drift car......but I think he's getting old now.
I think it hits in your mid 30's. I find all my friends are going with quiet exhausts these days. My buddy got an exhaust given to him by a well known performance company to run on his race UTV. The first time I saw it I said "that looks badass" and he responded "if it's too loud the factory exhaust is going right back on". This guy dailys a Cummins and had an LS powered Nissan drift car......but I think he's getting old now.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Good call on the mufflers Justin. My son tells me I'm an "old fart" because when I put my LS in my Jeep I wanted a fairly quiet muffler yet one that still gives off that hint of a throaty V8 under the hood. I ended up with a Magnaflow common chamber muffler and it is perfect where the only time I hear it is when I get on the skinny pedal, otherwise it is quiet as can be.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
I got passed by a Mustang on Val Vista and Elliott last week and I couldn't help but think how obnoxiously loud it was.......then I thought, damn I'm getting old!
I think it hits in your mid 30's. I find all my friends are going with quiet exhausts these days. My buddy got an exhaust given to him by a well known performance company to run on his race UTV. The first time I saw it I said "that looks badass" and he responded "if it's too loud the factory exhaust is going right back on". This guy dailys a Cummins and had an LS powered Nissan drift car......but I think he's getting old now.
A few years back there was a built 99-03 GT running around in chandler. Was next to it one day leaving a stop light and it was crazy loud. I saw the car for sale on CL shortly after. It has a blower, O/R H & MF magnapaks. Hmm, I though, just like mine.... Am I that guy? Guess so.
I've had the car on the dyno a few times, fun to listen but too loud to record with a cell phone.
Seems the exhaust trend on newer coyote mustangs are minimal round muffler systems, extra loud raspy.
Perhaps he's right but it's your Jeep! Can you share the PN of that muffler?
I was planning to use a muffler as a bank equalizer/cross over on my 72 Ford which sounds like what you have done on your Jeep.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'll see if I can locate the part number that I used. It was a Magnaflow knock off but was stainless steel common chamber.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Jones makes a Magnaflow copy in all sizes and flavors. That is what I originally used on the K5. Very high quality, just pull the first number off of the Magnaflow number and you've got the Jones part #. About half the price it less.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
I again attempted to tune the carburetor on my kid's 125cc quad before camping trip this weekend. Idle circuit has never worked and choke must be used to keep it running. I ordered a set of pilot jets, but they didn't fit the knockoff turd marked as a 'Keihin'. I noticed that one of the choke plate screws was missing, for who knows how long. I pulled the spark plug but didn't find any damage. I reassembled and took it for a short test ride, ran as expected until it didn't.
Upon inspection with a bore scope, the intake valve didn't close all the way and compression leaking out intake. Well Sheeit. Should have kept looking for that screw...
I pulled the head and found this
Intake valve bent. I found an appropriate replacement spring/valve package on ebay for $12. Lapped the valve. Getting the locks installed was a little challenging. Set the lash and got the head assembled and installed easy enough.
Had to unbolt the motor to get the head off/on. Overall easy to work on even though an OHC design. Kind of like working on a kids toy but same rules and techniques apply as big boy toys. Fired right up and ran same as before.
Next step was to try yet another new carburetor ($16). Installed and it started right up and idled nicely. Tuned idle circuit and tried a few needle positions. For the first time, the quad runs properly. Then I bypassed the brake lever starter lockout. Next step is to re-gear to a lower ratio.
Upon inspection with a bore scope, the intake valve didn't close all the way and compression leaking out intake. Well Sheeit. Should have kept looking for that screw...
I pulled the head and found this
Intake valve bent. I found an appropriate replacement spring/valve package on ebay for $12. Lapped the valve. Getting the locks installed was a little challenging. Set the lash and got the head assembled and installed easy enough.
Had to unbolt the motor to get the head off/on. Overall easy to work on even though an OHC design. Kind of like working on a kids toy but same rules and techniques apply as big boy toys. Fired right up and ran same as before.
Next step was to try yet another new carburetor ($16). Installed and it started right up and idled nicely. Tuned idle circuit and tried a few needle positions. For the first time, the quad runs properly. Then I bypassed the brake lever starter lockout. Next step is to re-gear to a lower ratio.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
A friend of mine convinced me it was a good idea to store his chainsaw at my place so I could use it whenever. It's a Craftsman (MTD) 55cc. It seems to let me down more often than not. If it starts before the trip , it likely won't when I get there. If it does it throws the chain.
I don't like to return thing in a worse condition than I receive, so I put an new chain on it, a plug and rebuilt the carb. After all that I still wouldn't start. I almost bought a Stihl, decided to wait, and tried one more time. Fired right up 1st pull
So I think it's a perfect time to give it back and get something reliable. Belated fathers day gift to myself. I've got a 1975 Stihl saw that starts easily but has a bad bar oil pump but can't get parts, so it need to go as well.
The smallest 'toilet' I have had to work on. $3 rebuild.
I don't like to return thing in a worse condition than I receive, so I put an new chain on it, a plug and rebuilt the carb. After all that I still wouldn't start. I almost bought a Stihl, decided to wait, and tried one more time. Fired right up 1st pull
So I think it's a perfect time to give it back and get something reliable. Belated fathers day gift to myself. I've got a 1975 Stihl saw that starts easily but has a bad bar oil pump but can't get parts, so it need to go as well.
The smallest 'toilet' I have had to work on. $3 rebuild.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Puttering on a few little projects so my foot can heal, or at least that was the plan.
Made a Cigar ashtray out of a piston and horseshoe, for a 'horsepower' theme haha.
TIG'd a nut in wrist pin hole to a piece of wire, to connect to shoe.
This pic doesn't show scale vey well as everything is large. The piston is out of a BBF at 4.360", and the horseshoe is freaking huge! 2x a 'normal' size. And a big stick and a heavy weight IPA.
Also got some gently used aluminum horseshoes from farrier, didn't know they existed.
Made a Cigar ashtray out of a piston and horseshoe, for a 'horsepower' theme haha.
TIG'd a nut in wrist pin hole to a piece of wire, to connect to shoe.
This pic doesn't show scale vey well as everything is large. The piston is out of a BBF at 4.360", and the horseshoe is freaking huge! 2x a 'normal' size. And a big stick and a heavy weight IPA.
Also got some gently used aluminum horseshoes from farrier, didn't know they existed.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Got the old engine (390 FE) & trans sold in 2 days on CL. Advertised it while in truck running/driving.
So the F250 project has officially started (again).
Had front clip disassembled in a few hours. I forsee a lot of turd polishing and unnecessary modifications being done to it....
And motor out in a few more. Not bad for a one-man show. Love the air-over-hydro mod on the hoist.
So the F250 project has officially started (again).
Had front clip disassembled in a few hours. I forsee a lot of turd polishing and unnecessary modifications being done to it....
And motor out in a few more. Not bad for a one-man show. Love the air-over-hydro mod on the hoist.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Nice work on the extraction. I understand about the one man show stuff. FE's are awesome, but too expensive to work on!
I didn't know about aluminum shoes either...can't imagine they would have lasted well in our terrain/soil type.
Ashtray is a great mix of used parts!
I didn't know about aluminum shoes either...can't imagine they would have lasted well in our terrain/soil type.
Ashtray is a great mix of used parts!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Justin, I am terribly sorry. I completely spaced this off until last night when I was cleaning up in the shop after mowing the lawn. I kept thinking there was something I was forgetting to do and then it hit me.
The muffler I am using on my Jeep is a Magnaflow knock-off made by Flow II, part number is 58278. It is a stainless steel common chamber muffler with dual 2.25" inlets and a single 3" outlet.
https://www.carid.com/different-tre...teel-oval-bare-exhaust-muffler-mpn-58278.html
Again, sorry for the late response.
nsula_country
Well-known member
Justin,
You have been busy with a bum foot! I see that the transformation has begun!
Dogfishhead is good beer.
Ashtray had me a little confused at first. How the hell did he TIG steel to AL?
What size tires are on your 72?
I plan to keep 16" wheels on my 75 and am contemplating tire size. Has 750-16 now. Was thinking 235/85R16 or 245/75R16. Have a wheel in mind, old school. Just don't know if I want to keep it around 32" or go shorter. This one will not be transformed into a 4x4 with a fire breathing 460+ cid. LOL
Thanks,
CT
You have been busy with a bum foot! I see that the transformation has begun!
Dogfishhead is good beer.
Ashtray had me a little confused at first. How the hell did he TIG steel to AL?
What size tires are on your 72?
I plan to keep 16" wheels on my 75 and am contemplating tire size. Has 750-16 now. Was thinking 235/85R16 or 245/75R16. Have a wheel in mind, old school. Just don't know if I want to keep it around 32" or go shorter. This one will not be transformed into a 4x4 with a fire breathing 460+ cid. LOL
Thanks,
CT
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
No problem, thanks for the PN
I welded a short 'L' shaped piece of 1/8 wire to a 1/4-20 nut on one end and the horseshoe on the other. A socked head cap screw secures to nut inside the wrist pin hole.
Tires are 245/70-17
I can't seem to decide on wheels/tires for my old Ford. Love the look of swampers but a poor choice for my needs. Considering 17x10 slot mags.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
Slot mags or Western Turbines!
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
+1 for above statement
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Turbines would be 1st choice, however I haven't found any 17". Don't think anyone makes them now. Can get in 16.5 8 lug used but avoiding the 16.5 size due to tire choice.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
I'm surprised nobody has made a good modern reproduction of these seeing as there are a lot of guys doing restomods on this generation of truck.
nsula_country
Well-known member
Swampers are cool (I am from the state that they were born in). But highly impractical. I do know an accountant/CPA that has an 80's LWB F150 that he keeps 33"-35" Super Swamper Boggers on. He doesn't care about tire wear, he just cares that he doesn't get stuck. His winch is to pull out other trucks.
I was looking at Western Turbines also. 16.5". Don't think they have any aftermarket manufacturers. Same for "Slots". Most original slots were 16" and 16.5".
Going a different route.
CT
TTMotorsports
Well-known member
Just did a search and had no idea people value those turbines for what they do. I have a set of 15x10s on my 65 chevy 4x4 truck 6 lug.
nsula_country
Well-known member
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
It's kinda like the following for the old Ultra buggy wheels. I was able to find modern reproductions of those from PRT.
TTMotorsports
Well-known member
Yes or even the old forged app wheels lot of desert guys love.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
Yeah, those were hot for a minute! I always thought they were one of the more refined looking race wheels.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Picked up a new Stihl chainsaw. Given my 1975 model still runs, it should out last me. Went with the old school MS 250 which is more than I probably need (typical decision for me) but uses a big boy chain type (.325) and makes 3hp.
Had a decent monsoon storm roll through last night and blow down some branches, perfect timing to try out my new toy, er, tool.
Had a decent monsoon storm roll through last night and blow down some branches, perfect timing to try out my new toy, er, tool.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Nice purchase, I've got an older model "Farm Boss". Definitely gets the job done.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Got the cab off the 72, built a dolly for the cab to move it around. Feels good to really get going on this project but also realize how much time and work it will take to get it how I want it.
After a long battle with 47 years of filth, I have the frame mostly cleaned up and ready for mock-up.
After a long battle with 47 years of filth, I have the frame mostly cleaned up and ready for mock-up.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Looking good Justin! Makes for a cleaner total build.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Been having some issues with 2014 F-250 suspension. Getting bad wheel hop/oscillations under certain conditions that didn't used to be there. The ICON shocks started leaking around 9 months old, and that was 4 years ago. The rebuild price was similar to new, and after speaking to some suspension guys the Icon 2.0 emulsions were not going to get me where I needed to be given vehicle and un-sprung weigh. The valving needed would generated lots of heat and hence pressure.
I decided to go with Fox 2.0 remote reservoir shock. I have avoided remote reservoir shocks to date, as they are most often found on mall crawlers and disco Jeeps that have never, ever left the pavement. They are the ultimate poser accessory for the flat-biller Bro's, and I don't wear my hat over my ears.
Bling-bling!
After ordering it ended up they were out of stock, so I was able to make a deal on an adjustable version without waiting 6 more weeks. These models have adjustable slow compression, which should help with my cab-over camper when truck is over 11,000 lbs. So thanks to the guys over at Accutune.
Given my truck is too long and heavy for the lift, I had to work on the ground like some of you poor souls. It sucked but I made it though. Better than a gravel parking lot at 115*.
So after spending lots of money, the problem is fixed right? Not so much. Still have some bounce. checked the wheel bearing, ball joints, steering, track bar and so on but all seems OK. Cranking down the comp does tighten up the ride but she is still a 8500# pig going down the road.
I decided to go with Fox 2.0 remote reservoir shock. I have avoided remote reservoir shocks to date, as they are most often found on mall crawlers and disco Jeeps that have never, ever left the pavement. They are the ultimate poser accessory for the flat-biller Bro's, and I don't wear my hat over my ears.
Bling-bling!
After ordering it ended up they were out of stock, so I was able to make a deal on an adjustable version without waiting 6 more weeks. These models have adjustable slow compression, which should help with my cab-over camper when truck is over 11,000 lbs. So thanks to the guys over at Accutune.
Given my truck is too long and heavy for the lift, I had to work on the ground like some of you poor souls. It sucked but I made it though. Better than a gravel parking lot at 115*.
So after spending lots of money, the problem is fixed right? Not so much. Still have some bounce. checked the wheel bearing, ball joints, steering, track bar and so on but all seems OK. Cranking down the comp does tighten up the ride but she is still a 8500# pig going down the road.
Farmall450
Well-known member
Wow, great thread -- just need more time to read it!
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
This statement brought me so much joy...haha, thanks for the laugh!
Never did understand that craze
TTMotorsports
Well-known member
Have you check the radius arm bushings and bolts. And track bar did you check the hole to see if ovaled out. My dodge bolt and bushing were all tight and I couldn't get any play but had a shimmy. Removed nut from bolt and saw it was ovaled out. Drilled it out and welded in a 4130 step weld washer to fix it for good. Now its nice and tight.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
I wonder if you have a tire going bad? I had 2 tires go bad that drove me nuts trying to figure out what was wrong with my car. Turns out the belts broke, but took a while to show. Discount replaced both.
Accutune does a lot of chase truck shocks (75% Super Duties), so they should have you well valved. The track bar and steering box are typically what we wear out first.
Accutune does a lot of chase truck shocks (75% Super Duties), so they should have you well valved. The track bar and steering box are typically what we wear out first.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks. I just need more time to fix broken ****.
I guess I'm too old and/or uncool to understand either...This statement brought me so much joy...haha, thanks for the laugh!
Never did understand that craze
Yes, recently tightened the arm bolts on left side. Was getting a loud ping/pop noise when torsion applied to axle. Noise seems to have gone away. I modified the stock arms for more caster by moving bolt holes long ago. The trac bar is from Precision metal fab, will check the upper end. lower is stock ball joint.
I suspect the tires too. I had one in the last set of toyo muds break some belts and it was similar but worsened quickly and had a noticeable bulge in the tread. Will jack up wheel and spin to see if out of round.
Really hope this is not the case, was wanting to wear out a set instead of replace again early at $1700... Toyo fine print says no warranty if you have truck camper. Have to find another brand if failures continue. I think this set has 25k on them. last set has one fail at 17k. A tire failure with camper + trailer at speed would be catastrophic.
Edit: Front tires don't appear to have belt/tread separation. out-of-round is minimal, 1/8" or so
Truck has 46k miles on it. Had to do something about the shocks that were leaking for last 4 years anyhow, but looks like there is another problem.
I guess that's life, everything I own has some type of problem big or small.
Last edited:
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Finally made a decision on the 460 con rod debacle. Ring seal was questioned at the amount error in the piston/bore alignment. After many measurements and theories I convinced myself the rods were all bent to some degree.
So I removed them and they are all getting replaced at a competent machine shop. I couldn't find such a place here in AZ, so they are going to PPAM in WA where I bought most of the parts and had heads ported and machined. So a step backwards, delay and another pile of money thrown at it.
Had to ship the press fit rod/piston combo at 36 lbs! Going with new (NOS) truck/football style OEM rods that will need to be worked to match the balance of the old ones and crank.
So I removed them and they are all getting replaced at a competent machine shop. I couldn't find such a place here in AZ, so they are going to PPAM in WA where I bought most of the parts and had heads ported and machined. So a step backwards, delay and another pile of money thrown at it.
Had to ship the press fit rod/piston combo at 36 lbs! Going with new (NOS) truck/football style OEM rods that will need to be worked to match the balance of the old ones and crank.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Always a bummer to redo work that is done. Less expensive to make it "right" now vs. total failure at RPM.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Ya, I couldn't quite just be OK with it. I'm sure it would have ran 'OK' but after thinking through all the inherent issues I decided to replace them. Skirt misalignment, reduced ring seal, uneven big end bearing wear.
With this addressed I also feel more confident running Nitrous to get to 500hp/650tq. Bent rods and spray sounds like a bad idea.
