rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

Got the inside of the bed painted. I did 2 coats of sealer, but just one on center of bed floor, as to not walk on it. Then same for top coat. Plan to put a rubber mat on beat up bed floor.

I decided not to repaint the doors. I went back over the few problem areas and found them to be not worth the risk of screwing the doors up worse compared to all the other errors in the paint job. I did fix one upper door jam on cab, and I fixed it so well I made some runs in it. So I laughed and felt like I made the right decision. Forgot to do inside of tailgate so more painting to go.
So instead I hung the 2nd door, and put the front clip on. Didn't make it far into door reassembly before turd polishing took over. Need new gaskets, clips, rubber bits and such so put in an order for parts.

 

[ntsqd]

I was once told that you keep painting until the drips and sags run off the vehicle. Then you don't have to sand them down.
I'm gonna go way out on the skinny limb and guess that's not how the Pro's do it....

A ~1/2" thick rubber bed mat made a huge difference in how much our pop-top camper moved around on wash-board roads. I've started to think that those are required equipment in any pick-up. Also just about kilt all of the "bed noise" when driving empty.

 

[WoodsTruck]

I got involved with a body work project 2 years ago, got to the youtube thing and found some Russians were using a clay like product to putty over a run, then sand the run down until it was gone. The putty stuff kept the sandpaper out of the surface paint until the operator was done cutting the run out. Not sure if it was water soluble to know how it was removed once the sanding was done.

 

[rattle_snake]

So hypothetically speaking, how would one remove/blend overspray from a subsequent coat of paint? Single stage Urethane.

Asking for a friend haha

 

[zmotorsports]

With single stage urethane I generally buff/polish the affected areas. Works better with clearcoat but single stage can be polished as well for similar results.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Wet sand, buff/polish. Rattle can job.

 

[rattle_snake]

Managed to find some time to re-plumb the fuel system on the truck. Figured since bed was off, it was the time to do it. During peak heat of summer the fuel would boil in tank and vent excessively. I think this was due to return style system being run close proximity (parallel) to the exhaust. I built some heat shields but was not quite enough and they were a band-aid type solution which I don't like. I knew the only real solution was to move lines to the left frame rail away from heat source, just have to re-work everything.

I made sure I spilled fuel all over while removing the lines and hoses. I was able to re-use most everything so the job was really to move and adapt as needed. First step was to rough-in the line on the left side and pick a spot to transition to hoses up front. Then add bends near tank and mount fuel filter. I put supply line with filter on bottom so it could be accesses easier for maintenance/replacement.


I added bracing for bump stops then out-boarded them later, so bracing was right in the way. As much as I wanted to cut them out, it was of little value so I just went around with some bends. Brake line and wiring were in the way so had to move and relocate as needed, put fuel lines down low to clear.


The rear cab support has only a small opening along frame so had to get creative to get all 4 item though there. I had filled many of the unused holes in frame so drilled new in the right places for brake line, and mounted wiring in piggyback fashion. Don't want to use any zip ties but did use some Velcro straps. No tools needed and reusable.


Up front the lines are shorter and end at back of block instead of going to front. This keeps away from exhaust further. The left header is a block hugger and exhaust wraps under the oil pan to cross over to the right side. So much cooler here than the right side. But a broken u-joint could allow the shaft to damage the fuel lines (and everything else).


Lines run up firewall to EFI throttle body which houses regulator and gauge. I added one dual hose clamp on steering column bolt to support the long length and keep them out of trans shifter linkage. This also keeps lines off sharp pinch weld and lines are curved enough to allow movement of frame/cab/engine.


Overall a cleaner install under hood and should mitigate the fuel heating issue.

 

[rattle_snake]

After fuel system was re-worked, I took it out for a short test drive in the sun. Some tire spin may have occurred.


Then had my neighbor help me install hood and set bed back on chassis. Good to have all the body panels off the shop floor.




I painted the inside of the tailgate which should be the last piece. Long way to go on re-assembly but over the hump now and can putter away on little things and not be dependent on weather. Trying to prioritize the items needed to get it back on the road, like glass, mirrors, bumper and so on.

 

[Boosted1]

Looking good. How are those AN fittings to hard lines attached? Some look like they are just press on / over the hard line.

 

[zmotorsports]

Lookin' good Justin. Don't wear out those new shoes already.

 

[ntsqd]

A trick that I've used for years to manage the tubing to hose junction is to use tube nuts & sleeves on the tubing (a Rol-Air 37° flaring tool being well worth the investment!) and connect those to a bulkhead union. I put the union thru a hole in something, either a tab that I make or some existing structure (the latter being my preference). The hose connects to the other side of the union.

Since any disassembly that might happen will likely be the hose being removed from the union fitting I always place the 'fixed' hex of the union fitting body on the hose side of the tab/bracket/etc. so that it is easy to back-up with a second wrench.

It would appear that I've never taken a pic of any of these connections. The closest is my experiment with wash-down poke-n-hopes and nylon tubing on the "Bronc-up ('70 Bronco SuperCab Pick-up). https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-gPdtdCt/1/1d3a3bb8/O/i-gPdtdCt.jpg

 

[rattle_snake]

Looking good. How are those AN fittings to hard lines attached? Some look like they are just press on / over the hard line.

There is a male/male union to connect the hose to line. Lines are flared at 37 (not 45) and use a sleeve and tube nut. Hoses uses a reusable hose end.

Lookin' good Justin. Don't wear out those new shoes already.

Uh, ya my foot slipped?
She won't take more than 1/2 throttle even from a roll with weight off. Still surprised the limited slip in rear works so well on pavement.
Sadly these tires will die from old age before they are worn down.

A trick that I've used for years to manage the tubing to hose junction is to use tube nuts & sleeves on the tubing (a Rol-Air 37° flaring tool being well worth the investment!) and connect those to a bulkhead union. I put the union thru a hole in something, either a tab that I make or some existing structure (the latter being my preference). The hose connects to the other side of the union.

Since any disassembly that might happen will likely be the hose being removed from the union fitting I always place the 'fixed' hex of the union fitting body on the hose side of the tab/bracket/etc. so that it is easy to back-up with a second wrench.

It would appear that I've never taken a pic of any of these connections. The closest is my experiment with wash-down poke-n-hopes and nylon tubing on the "Bronc-up ('70 Bronco SuperCab Pick-up). https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-gPdtdCt/1/1d3a3bb8/O/i-gPdtdCt.jpg

Interesting idea of securing the tube end. I like it, much better than a p clamp near end, for reason you have mentioned. could just swap out a regular union for bulkhead union, weld on a tab. This is how my AN brake lines are done, fixed mount for hardline.
Thanks for passing the info along... but now I want to change, er 'fix' them, but I know better and should move on with the other 100 things first.

And yes a roller-style 37* tool is very handy. In my ignorance I originally used a regular 45* swedge-style flare and they leaked. My neighbor has a rigid 377 so redid the flares and this time no leaks and no need to over torque.

 

[ntsqd]

I *think* that I stole the idea from WWII era aircraft, but it's been so long ago that I'm not sure any more. First time that I used it was a Pro Mod car's fuel system that I plumbed in the late 80's. Owner wanted to use AL tubing for the -12 supply and the -8 return, and I was concerned about fatigue failing that tubing from vibration.

In AL tubing you can do what you did the first time and it will work. BUT it does work the tubing pretty hard and that stuff fatigue fails pretty fast if you aren't careful. I wouldn't try it on steel or SS tubing. I've yet to work with the Cu-Ni tubing, but I'll learn about it in the next month or so.

 

[stockerwithalocker]

Fyi if you get any leaks on the flares try seco seals (seco7-c-size). We use them on our plumbing fittings at work with gases and liquids.

 

[rattle_snake]

Fyi if you get any leaks on the flares try seco seals (seco7-c-size). We use them on our plumbing fittings at work with gases and liquids.

Interesting, saving away for future. Could have used those on hydroboost ANs. The cheap import steel adapter fittings were junk.

 

[stockerwithalocker]

Interesting, saving away for future. Could have used those on hydroboost ANs. The cheap import steel adapter fittings were junk.

If you do it again try g&j aircraft and competition in California. They are the go to for hoses and all the goodies.

 

[ntsqd]

I've been using Orme Bros. ever since Tom Lee of Lee Power Steering suggested them when we were plumbing the YJ from Hell. I found their phone guy to be able to mentally assemble the parts list, by part number, as I told him what I was doing.
I've heard good things about G&J, but never dealt with them. Doubt that you can go wrong with either vendor.

 

[rattle_snake]

With single stage urethane I generally buff/polish the affected areas. Works better with clearcoat but single stage can be polished as well for similar results.

Wet sand, buff/polish. Rattle can job.

How more specifically should one go about this?
What wet sand grit to start with? or try buff/polish first?

I don't have a buff/polish machine. Not sure what to buy. orbital type or circular. Already have similar tools, sanders and grinders, can pad be adapted to them for limited use?

 

[WoodsTruck]

You lump me in with ZMotorguru and expect me to answer?

I just use one of these:

Meguiar's G3500 Meguiar's DA Power Systems | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Meguiar's DA Power Systems with qualifying orders of $125. Shop Buffing, Polishing & Applicator Pads at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Bears Fan]

Great job on rerouting all the lines, what a PITA! the braided flex hose sure looks like it made the job a bit easier

The old Ford is looking good

 

[zmotorsports]

How more specifically should one go about this?
What wet sand grit to start with? or try buff/polish first?

I don't have a buff/polish machine. Not sure what to buy. orbital type or circular. Already have similar tools, sanders and grinders, can pad be adapted to them for limited use?

Justin, on solids and clear I will determine the amount of orange peel it has vs. what I want to determine where to start with color sanding. If I am going for show quality, flat and mirror finish I will generally start with about 600-grit wet and then "flow-coat" another 2-3 coats of clear before starting the color sanding or "cut & buff" process.

If a street job and just a little dust or dirt nibs are in the finish I will hit them with either 1000 or 1200 grit then jump to 1500 grit for wet color sanding. I sometimes will go as fine as 2000 but generally I can polish out 1500 grit scratches with relative ease.

I start with a white compounding pad and 3M Micropolishing compound. This step is to remove the sanding scratches but will leave some heavy swirl marks. From there I swap over to a yellow polishing pad and 3M Finesse-It polishing compound. This step is to remove the heavy swirl marks and you can really see the shine pop. From there I will go to a foam pad and use 3M Imperial Machine Glaze which removed the last remaining swirl marks. Last step is a coat of 3M Imperial Hand Glaze applied by hand. Also, I give the surface a wipe down between each step to prevent the courser previous step's compound from being introduced into the next subsequent step and causing more scratches.

As for a buffer, I have an old Black & Decker variable speed electric polisher that I have used for nearly 20 years now. I like the variable speed so I can adjust when I get near tight areas. Urethane is tricky because it requires so heat to be generated to properly polish the finish but too much heat generated and you can burn through or burn back an edge very quickly.

A couple of tips, when polishing up to an edge, keep the wheel rotating "OFF" the edge and avoid tilting the buffing wheel where the wheel will catch the edge coming back on. This will burn back an edge in a heartbeat if not paying attention. Another tip is to use some masking tape on the edges or areas to prevent buffing. Lastly, don't focus on edges, they get enough by accident. Focus on the flat surfaces and then lightly breathe over the edges as final passes.

Hope that helps Justin. That is the process that I've been using for a couple of decades now for either street or show jobs but I am sure there are newer and other processes that some people use now to cut the time down.

I think you can go back to where I painted the rear quarter of my Jeep in my Projects 2.0 thread to see the exact compounds and buffer that I use as well as the process.

 

[don long]

I couldn't have put it any better. I totally do the same process on all my show paint jobs!!

Truck is lookin goood

 

[zmotorsports]

I couldn't have put it any better. I totally do the same process on all my show paint jobs!!

Truck is lookin goood

Thanks Don. Do you also use the 3M products or something else? I think I read somewhere lately where there has been a pretty large shift to other products whereas the 3M polishing compounds used to be king. I still have quite a bit of the 3M compounds so I am not anywhere near ready to change over, plus I don't do nearly as much paint and body or polishing as I once did.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

For some reason my subscription hasn't been sending me notifications about updates, I was a whole page behind.

Pickup is looking great Justin! Fuel lines turned out awesome, and that color just keeps looking better.

 

[don long]

Thanks Don. Do you also use the 3M products or something else? I think I read somewhere lately where there has been a pretty large shift to other products whereas the 3M polishing compounds used to be king. I still have quite a bit of the 3M compounds so I am not anywhere near ready to change over, plus I don't do nearly as much paint and body or polishing as I once did.

Hi Mike
Like you my supply of 3M is still good so no change of product is in the near future for me.
I'm still very pleased with this 3 step process and the foam pads

 

[zmotorsports]

Hi Mike
Like you my supply of 3M is still good so no change of product is in the near future for me.
I'm still very pleased with this 3 step process and the foam pads

Awesome. Thanks Don.

 

[rattle_snake]

Paint job is pretty much complete. I had planned to putter along on the trim rehab but I guess I can't operate at that speed so finished it out. I did take time to address many minor issues and Band-Aids that had been done in the past. Fixed fuel filler leak. Replaced the clips inside doors for lock and latches so everything works smoothly. Re-worked e-brake onto chassis. Cleaned things that no one will ever see. But still same list of todo items that existed before paint job started.

But it is a different color now. All new rubber and plastic bits as needed. New windshield glass, seals. Wing window seals, and so on.


All body panels and all but one piece of trim is original to this truck. Trim isn't perfect, but polished up it is good enough. To get any better, just trash all and buy new. It fits the quality of paint (or lack there of). I did buy all new trim clips but otherwise restored the original fasteners.




With enlargement of rear wheel opening the lower trim had to be cut down to fit properly. So had to re-form ends on 4 pieces

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Wow Justin!

Looks too nice to drive now. Awesome job my friend, awesom job

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Looks fantastic on the interweb!

 

[zmotorsports]

The truck turned out fantastic Justin. Great job. Hope you can drive it and enjoy it trouble free now.

 

[jhn9840]

Great looking truck

jhn9840
John

 

[Bodj Built]

Incredible job!

 

[PugetDude]

Pics look great!

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks guys. Drove the truck to work today. Felt good to roll down the road in style. Lots of reactions to it.
Looking forward to taking it out wheelin'.

 

[LXCam]

Killer job J, ya done reallll good bubba

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks 'Cam!

Enjoyed putting clean shiny stuff back together. I painted tool box latch to match, and replaced the seal. Was a filthy mess now nice and clean. All the tools in this box but bro-dozer drop hitch is in 2 soft bags. little one is winch recover gear and other tools and parts.


Also bough a new dash bezel since I was ordering 'stuff'. More fitting with chrome like A/C, controls, knobs and so on. Next is radio bezel and new head unit with screen for back up camera.

 

[harley jim]

Justin that's a beautiful truck

 

[Mr.zippy]

That is fabulous Justin. I would be proud to call that mine!

 

[royce]

That's my vision of the perfect pickup truck.
Well done Justin

 

[no704]

great job and thanks for sharing. My ‘73. Waiting to get my shop built to tear into.