bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Justin, your truck turned out awesome. And as you know you're never done!
rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1
- Thread starter rattle_snake
- Start date
Boosted1
Well-known member
Truck looks great.
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Looks awesome, can’t wait to finish up the yard projects other than just the weekly maintenance so I can get back on the fleet!
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks everyone for the comments!
Was able to knock out a few more upgrades that have been on the list for a long time. I swapped out the rest of the park/turn/brake light bulbs for LEDs. Now every bulb on truck is LED, current much lower in old harness and can leave lights on for a long time and it will still start. Also did LED compatible blinkers. Looks the same so no pics.
Finished windshield wiper system. I bought a new reservoir but it leaked and didn't fit in intended location with shock towers I added. So ended up with a cheap generic reservoir/pump and fit it near hydroboost.
Swapped out stereo head unit for one with a screen for backup camera. I had pre-wired the video cable into main harness. I wanted to use a factory style radio bezel to better match the rest of the dash. Problem is a DIN opening is bigger than the tapered bezel will accept, so I chose a unit that had a narrower face for back mount install. I was gifted one from a forum member (thanks Gump!) including shipping, who does that? So I cut it up.
old mount was a generic Volvo setup, an although it is a easy install the angle is wrong and looks is 'plastic'
So the unit needed to be mounted solidly itself and the bezel just a bezel. I made some simple adapter plates to secure the unit to the knob 'ears' that were bend out of the way previously. The knob holes are larger so allowed some adjustability to get face to center in bezel. Without CD mechanism depth is much shorter and allow use of recessed bezel mount, otherwise unit interferes with windshield wiper linkage.
Moved the Sniper screen off ash tray door to right of column. Cleans up the dash a bit.
Goes well with new instrument panel bezel
Was able to knock out a few more upgrades that have been on the list for a long time. I swapped out the rest of the park/turn/brake light bulbs for LEDs. Now every bulb on truck is LED, current much lower in old harness and can leave lights on for a long time and it will still start. Also did LED compatible blinkers. Looks the same so no pics.
Finished windshield wiper system. I bought a new reservoir but it leaked and didn't fit in intended location with shock towers I added. So ended up with a cheap generic reservoir/pump and fit it near hydroboost.
Swapped out stereo head unit for one with a screen for backup camera. I had pre-wired the video cable into main harness. I wanted to use a factory style radio bezel to better match the rest of the dash. Problem is a DIN opening is bigger than the tapered bezel will accept, so I chose a unit that had a narrower face for back mount install. I was gifted one from a forum member (thanks Gump!) including shipping, who does that? So I cut it up.
old mount was a generic Volvo setup, an although it is a easy install the angle is wrong and looks is 'plastic'
So the unit needed to be mounted solidly itself and the bezel just a bezel. I made some simple adapter plates to secure the unit to the knob 'ears' that were bend out of the way previously. The knob holes are larger so allowed some adjustability to get face to center in bezel. Without CD mechanism depth is much shorter and allow use of recessed bezel mount, otherwise unit interferes with windshield wiper linkage.
Moved the Sniper screen off ash tray door to right of column. Cleans up the dash a bit.
Goes well with new instrument panel bezel
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Still haven't fixed Cobra or dirt bike but '72 backfired on startup and then ran odd and wouldn't upshift in 'D'. So abort and drive the '14.
Assumed trans modulator/hose, inspection found hose popped off at manifold. Hose is not that old but was totally soft and junk. So replaced and all is well again.
After 1st round of CRF450 carb cleaning, bike wouldn't start. Started disassembly round 2 and found coil wire popped off, caught on fuel valve. So put back together and got it running but no idle, so idle circuit not happy still even with new jet and passage cleaning. So pulled carb back off for a more thorough cleaning....
Trying to get car and bike fixed before starting into boat PM, impeller.
Assumed trans modulator/hose, inspection found hose popped off at manifold. Hose is not that old but was totally soft and junk. So replaced and all is well again.
After 1st round of CRF450 carb cleaning, bike wouldn't start. Started disassembly round 2 and found coil wire popped off, caught on fuel valve. So put back together and got it running but no idle, so idle circuit not happy still even with new jet and passage cleaning. So pulled carb back off for a more thorough cleaning....
Trying to get car and bike fixed before starting into boat PM, impeller.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
Check to see if the tank/petcock has a filter in it. I've had those get clogged on Honda's before.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
It doesn't but it flows fine. Runs fine on main circuit, will wheelie at WOT. Just won't idle, no control with pilot screw so idle circuit not flowing properly. Waiting on some carb cleaner that is made for motorcycle carbs (PJ1) that won't destroy the slide seals, o-rings and so on.
ntsqd
Well-known member
Did I ask this already? Mind sharing who you're sourcing stuff like door seals etc.. from for the F truck? I've got two now old (they don't seem like it to me, but then maybe I'm now old) trucks that need window seals and door seals and.....
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Sure,
Before I knew better I used LMC for door gaskets and window channels. They seem to be fine but others avoid.
This last round for body items I bought from Denis Carpenter. Today I would buy seals from DC.
The windshield/back glass/wing seals are from Steele, more expensive but nice, fit well. Over $500 for those 3 items.
Before I knew better I used LMC for door gaskets and window channels. They seem to be fine but others avoid.
This last round for body items I bought from Denis Carpenter. Today I would buy seals from DC.
The windshield/back glass/wing seals are from Steele, more expensive but nice, fit well. Over $500 for those 3 items.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Farting around with minor tweaks induced by someone's OCD. Drive door leaks at highway speeds so still adjusting hinges for a balance of fit and seal.
Adjusted the C6 transmission vacuum modulator to raise part throttle shift points. It would shift into 3rd by 10-15 mph at light load, and at medium would still shift very early. I had to fabricate a really short screwdriver to adjust, cranked it in a turn or so, I think it is bottomed out. It did raise shift points some and is better at typical/medium throttle like accelerating with traffic from light. I believe to go further I can lengthen rod behind modulator. WOT shifts are same I as there is no vacuum at WOT just like before. My Dakota digital dash has a max RPM feature and it indicated 5200 upshifts in 'D'. HP peak is 5500 for this engine.
Shimmed the tailgate handle so it was not so floppy. A PITA but I got a bit smarter and shoved shims in the latches to unload the mechanism to work on it. I did manage to drop the handle and chip it up. Dooh. Not a big deal, as the tailgate itself got dropped during assemble also. Face down of course, on the corner. My dad was in town and helping and it slipped. Had to hammer the hinge pocket back to a round-ish shape. That same day my FIL pass away from cancer. Put things into perspective and was just glad to spend time with my dad in the shop. Never know when that last time will be.
Adjusted the C6 transmission vacuum modulator to raise part throttle shift points. It would shift into 3rd by 10-15 mph at light load, and at medium would still shift very early. I had to fabricate a really short screwdriver to adjust, cranked it in a turn or so, I think it is bottomed out. It did raise shift points some and is better at typical/medium throttle like accelerating with traffic from light. I believe to go further I can lengthen rod behind modulator. WOT shifts are same I as there is no vacuum at WOT just like before. My Dakota digital dash has a max RPM feature and it indicated 5200 upshifts in 'D'. HP peak is 5500 for this engine.
Shimmed the tailgate handle so it was not so floppy. A PITA but I got a bit smarter and shoved shims in the latches to unload the mechanism to work on it. I did manage to drop the handle and chip it up. Dooh. Not a big deal, as the tailgate itself got dropped during assemble also. Face down of course, on the corner. My dad was in town and helping and it slipped. Had to hammer the hinge pocket back to a round-ish shape. That same day my FIL pass away from cancer. Put things into perspective and was just glad to spend time with my dad in the shop. Never know when that last time will be.
ptt49er
Well-known member
Condolences to you and your family!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Sorry to hear that Justin.
Enjoy the time with your dad while you can. I'd give anything to have another day with mine. Now I just want to spend as much time as I can with my son but I guess he isn't to the point where he's come to that realization yet.
ntsqd
Well-known member
Thank you and my condolences!
EDIT: Ordered some of the bits that my '96 Bronco needs from DC. Thanks again!
Sure wish there was an equivalent Bowtie operation as I need some parts for the '73 SB-SS that I inherited from my Grandfather.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Sure your welcome. I assume there is an equivalent for GM stuff. Some of the vendor have both.
Got the CRF450X running properly. Just cleaned carb again in same fashion with safe chems, There was still some yellow goo in it so maybe the petcock line still had some old fuel. Was able to R&R it in a fraction of the time now that I re-familiarized myself with process.
Now it starts immediately and purrs like a lion. Been frustrated with it and my ongoing headaches prevent wanting to use it so contemplated selling it. But after a WOT pull through the gears and resulting smile maybe I'll keep it awhile longer....
Got the CRF450X running properly. Just cleaned carb again in same fashion with safe chems, There was still some yellow goo in it so maybe the petcock line still had some old fuel. Was able to R&R it in a fraction of the time now that I re-familiarized myself with process.
Now it starts immediately and purrs like a lion. Been frustrated with it and my ongoing headaches prevent wanting to use it so contemplated selling it. But after a WOT pull through the gears and resulting smile maybe I'll keep it awhile longer....
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Wasn't getting updates on this thread again?
Condolences on your loss Justin, hope the Mrs. is doing ok!
Condolences on your loss Justin, hope the Mrs. is doing ok!
Ohmthis
Well-known member
Justin, sorry for the loss!
PhantomEB
Well-known member
Sorry for the loss,
I doing the same here but like you, I know my father would want me not to greive the loss but remember the good times. He would want me to keep on getting set up for camping trips like he always was.
I doing the same here but like you, I know my father would want me not to greive the loss but remember the good times. He would want me to keep on getting set up for camping trips like he always was.
Monza Harry
Well-known member
Justin, someone's OCD? I don 't think so Tim! [Al Borland (Tool Time, LOL!) quote] Own up we know who's OCD it was and it is why we keep coming back! As for your doors' wind leak you may need to pull the upper frame in [YES bend it back] as the body twist will push the tops out. Only longer term fix is to stiffen the frame [box it] and body [seam weld all joints], not a small undertaking, especially on a freshly painted project.
And as well stated above by many I'll add my condolences and well wishes to the collective outpouring above. Harry
ntsqd
Well-known member
I've long been really hesitant to box C truck frames. Every design feature about them is designed to tolerate some twist and flex w/o destroying itself. The problem boxing such a frame raises is when the boxing intersects a cross-member. If the goal is longevity then how do you address this junction and maintain that tolerance? If you don't maintain it you risk the even reduced flexing and twisting now tearing up the frame at those junctions because the resulting welded 't' joint that most would resort to is far less tolerant than the original rivets.
If the truck is going to be caged, then boxing the frame isn't as important if the cage is a well designed, load-bearing cage.
If the truck is going to be caged, then boxing the frame isn't as important if the cage is a well designed, load-bearing cage.
Monza Harry
Well-known member
Boxed correctly, which includes through boxing at the joints/crossmembers is just fine! You are right, done 1/2 @$$ is making a stress riser somewhere, Justin has shown his perpencity for high quality work I have no reason to believe he would shortcut this and we would flame him if he did! 
For as much as he'll end up driving this I'd just wrestle with the window frame once a year. Harry
For as much as he'll end up driving this I'd just wrestle with the window frame once a year. Harry
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks everyone for the kind words. Yesterday would have been my FIL's 73rd birthday so a rough day for my wife.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Well Ok Harry you got me on that one!
Thanks for tip on bending the door frame, will try that.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Got the dirtbike out last weekend for a desert ride. Getting warm so have to get some trips in. Started fine but didn't want to stay running at idle for some reason. I decided to ride it anyhow and it cleared up quick enough and ran perfect the remainder of the day.
Then did first oil change on wife's new explorer with turbo 4. Had to figure out best way to lift it on 2 post. No sure how to get new fangled contraption into 'N' unless it is running.
Has one of those belly panels that covers oil pan and filter. May accidently loose it next time.
Put a new impeller in the boat to get it ready for this season. I happened to go inside for something and my younger daughter asked if she could help. Heck ya, so we rebuilt sea pump and installed it pretty quick. I rambled on about o-ring theory and some other technical jargon but not too much. She was able to appreciate the difficulty of accessing the bolts down on the bottom of the motor to install pump. lots of contortions.
Old Ford has had an exhaust leak for a bit. Drives me nuts and sounds terrible. Couldn't quite figure out where is was coming from, so had the Mrs. put a slight load on it in gear while I inspected. Right header at head. Now that engine is lowered in chassis it is TIGHT fit on that side but just enough to slip gasket out. Happened to have a spare set on hand so popped a new one in, problem solved.
Then did first oil change on wife's new explorer with turbo 4. Had to figure out best way to lift it on 2 post. No sure how to get new fangled contraption into 'N' unless it is running.
Has one of those belly panels that covers oil pan and filter. May accidently loose it next time.
Put a new impeller in the boat to get it ready for this season. I happened to go inside for something and my younger daughter asked if she could help. Heck ya, so we rebuilt sea pump and installed it pretty quick. I rambled on about o-ring theory and some other technical jargon but not too much. She was able to appreciate the difficulty of accessing the bolts down on the bottom of the motor to install pump. lots of contortions.
Old Ford has had an exhaust leak for a bit. Drives me nuts and sounds terrible. Couldn't quite figure out where is was coming from, so had the Mrs. put a slight load on it in gear while I inspected. Right header at head. Now that engine is lowered in chassis it is TIGHT fit on that side but just enough to slip gasket out. Happened to have a spare set on hand so popped a new one in, problem solved.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
I like quick easy exhaust fixes.
I'll have to look under one of the new Exploders at the dealership, didn't realize they had "factory armor". I'm not crazy about Ford's obsession with the dial-o-matic gear selectors.
You must still be a cool dad if you have a daughter coming out to the shop! I'm finally gaining some intelligence back in the eyes of the oldest, and the youngest daughter still stays scarce from "home" since she moved out on her own. Probably doesn't help that her current suitor doesn't like me either...feeling may be mutual.
I'll have to look under one of the new Exploders at the dealership, didn't realize they had "factory armor". I'm not crazy about Ford's obsession with the dial-o-matic gear selectors.
You must still be a cool dad if you have a daughter coming out to the shop! I'm finally gaining some intelligence back in the eyes of the oldest, and the youngest daughter still stays scarce from "home" since she moved out on her own. Probably doesn't help that her current suitor doesn't like me either...feeling may be mutual.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Not sure how cool a dad can be to a teenager... but she really likes to water ski and camp at the lake so I try to provide those experiences.I like quick easy exhuast fixes.
I'll have to look under one of the new Exploders at the dealership, didn't realize they had "factory armor". I'm not crazy about Ford's obsession with the dial-o-matic gear selectors.
You must still be a cool dad if you have a daughter coming out to the shop! I'm finally gaining some intelligence back in the eyes of the oldest, and the youngest daughter still stays scarce from "home" since she moved out on her own. Probably doesn't help that her current suitor doesn't like me either...feeling may be mutual.
Hopefully current suitor understands you have a tractor and plenty of land to dig holes in.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
While working on exhaust gasket I figured I should inspect plugs now that they have 2k+ miles on them.
1234
5678
Not too inconsistent for a dual plane v-8 with throttle body EFI.
1234
5678
Not too inconsistent for a dual plane v-8 with throttle body EFI.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Pulled boat out and around block to blow paint dust off and check tires. Jacked up one at a time, spun and looked for bubbles and irregularities. Topped of tire pressure and ready for another season. Try not to be the guy broke down on the side of the road changing tires when it's so F'n hot you can't touch asphalt. Or dead boat battery on ramp.
Old truck looking good doing some work.
Old truck looking good doing some work.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
That's a great picture! I'll have to see if I can find the one of my buddy's '79 F250 hooked up to my '72 Glastron jetboat.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Love the picture Justin. Truck looks great hooked to the boat.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I agree, Mike- great mix of old and new.
OP
rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks guys. 'new' in this case 1998
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks guys. 'new' in this case 1998
So, older and slightly newer?
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
I was finally able to successfully trouble shoot fuel issue on cobra mustang. I built some hardware to datalog the fuel pump voltage boost regulator and output of the pump driver itself, but ended up using simple voltmeter on fuel pressure sensor to see issue. I was able to observe going in and out of failure mode twice so convinced issue was sensor. Bough one today, installed/re-assembled car and had successful test drive. Only took 10 weeks.
I am trying to accept I push myself too hard at times (all the time) to accomplish everything as quickly as possible. For this issue I was able to detach and work on it as I wanted to or had something worthwhile to try. I'm fortunate that it's a toy and not a DD, so no real time pressure to solve. So on to the suburban....
I am trying to accept I push myself too hard at times (all the time) to accomplish everything as quickly as possible. For this issue I was able to detach and work on it as I wanted to or had something worthwhile to try. I'm fortunate that it's a toy and not a DD, so no real time pressure to solve. So on to the suburban....
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Cobra made it to work today. All seems well with it. The Nitto 555R rear tires are very smooth at high speed but don't hook like the Mickey T's. Needs a good cleaning..
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
A/C season has started. The fan switch in my 72 ford that I 'refurbished' started having issues on high speed so I figured I would rewire for 2 reasons. Off load the high current and isolate magnetic field collapse back voltage spike. When fan is turned off, the energy stored in magnetic field has to go somewhere, and generates a high negative voltage, perhaps enough to arc across open switch terminals. Had same issue with A/C clutch, it fried the other HVAC switches for same reason.
The fuse box was also badly thermally damaged so I had added a relay and dedicated HVAC power supply to remove high current from it and factor harness. So phase 2 was to do similar for switch. This required 3 relays, one for each fan speed but can remove the existing one. Graphed the relays into the HVAC wire harness but still having issues with high speed. Dooh, too late I guess. Not sure switch can be removed without dropping HVAC box down for access. No fun.
The fuse box was also badly thermally damaged so I had added a relay and dedicated HVAC power supply to remove high current from it and factor harness. So phase 2 was to do similar for switch. This required 3 relays, one for each fan speed but can remove the existing one. Graphed the relays into the HVAC wire harness but still having issues with high speed. Dooh, too late I guess. Not sure switch can be removed without dropping HVAC box down for access. No fun.
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OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Hmmm, old Fords and their nuances.
We finally broke in to the 50s today...overcast and rainy. High 60s low 70s for the weekend.
We finally broke in to the 50s today...overcast and rainy. High 60s low 70s for the weekend.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Yes you have to talk and listen to the old iron. or is that talking to yourself? Or swearing at it? anyhow...
I guess I enjoy fiddling/puttering/turd polishing on it. Popped door panels off late last night and did slight tweak to driver door hinges to get it to shut 'just right'. Love the sound of the old Ford door especially with sound deading in it. Daughters were complaining that passenger door inner handle was hard to operate so I bent linkage a tad to remove free play and get door to open with less effort. Also adjusted pass door power lock actuator as it wouldn't fully unlock intermittently.
Then I found water heater leaking in garage so on to the next repair
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Water heater sounds like way less fun, and not tinkering.
I can actually hear a 70s Ford door open/close if I close my eyes...been in and out of enough of them!
I can actually hear a 70s Ford door open/close if I close my eyes...been in and out of enough of them!
ntsqd
Well-known member
Not sure what to make of this, I recall the sound of grandad's '73 C-10 door closing better than I recall the sound of his '72 F-100 door closing. Maybe it's because the the F-100 was sold off (much to my regret!) and I now own the C-10? Naw, that wouldn't be it......