Re-Coating Epoxy Floor

[yodash89]

Hello

So the story goes that I used Rustoleum Epoxy shield (water base) on the floor in my garage. I also clear coated. Now I’m not having trouble with peeling or anything of that sort. Surface prep was immaculate if I do say so myself. The issue lies in the face that I have some minor cracks that are showing through and also a couple of spots on the floor that didn’t get covered all the way. In short, it is just bothering me.

My question is what needs to be done to floor in its current state so that I can lay down Rustoleum Professional 100% solids epoxy. and I also want to clear coat. My plan is to lay the epoxy down pretty thick so as to cover the cracks that are showing through.

I have a floor buffer at my disposal with all the assorted pads, and also a pressure washer if needed. I can also rent equipment if it is necessary.

Pleas let me know your suggestions.

Thank you,

Yodash89

 

[MxRider2637]

I didn't know that rustoleum made 100% solids epoxy, i know that there concrete patch is though. It seems to me that you do not need to recoat the whole floor. If it isnt peeling and there is just a crack, then fill it and epoxy that section. The only reason i see is that you would need to recoat if the water based rustoleum isn't holding up well.

 

[yodash89]

Sorry, I meant the Rustoleum Professional product. The cracks that I have consist of mostly hairline cracks that didn’t get fully filled in with the initial coating. At this point I would just like to put on the industrial grade stuff; I should have just done it from the start, and been done with it.

 

[porphyre]

I'm sure some of the salesmen will chime in soon, but I'd suggest using an angle grinder, then patching then grinding again. Buy a kit of Rustoleum's Epoxy patching material. Use an angle grinder with a masonry disk and grind the crack into a shallow V. Just open the top up some. Put the patch material in. Then (and this is the important part) use the grinder again to smooth out the top. You may need one of those "cup wheel" things so that you can press down flat from the top. If you don't smooth off the patch it will show through when you coat the floor.

Obviously, you also need to call Rustoleum and ask them what their recommended method is. You may have to scuff the entire floor or they MAY tell you it's not recommended to cover the water based stuff with the solvent based stuff.

 

[1984GMC]

Yea I used the solivent bast rustolium on mine and it tuned out ok, Didn't really like how dark the grey was, compared to the Cantor stuff I laid down. The cantor with 1 coat was more glossy that the base and clear of rustolium, but both have been tough as nails.

 

[thegarageguy]

Just rolling on any epoxy isn't enough to cover or fill a crack properly. You have to figure most cracks are not superficial, therefore may be as deep as the slab. The epoxy needs to be made into a putty in order for it to not sag. Also, it's preferable to use an epoxy with some elasticity just in case there is still future movement in that crack.

Rolling on another thin coat wont do much and if there is future movement it will hairline. Once moisture enters the crack, it will begin to delaminate.

 

[CreteCoater]

In order to re-coat the epoxy you will need to scuff it with at least an 80 grit sander. DO NOT pressure wash it, if you do, wait at LEAST 48 hours before you recoat. Epoxy has a 24 hour window from the time it is applied to the time you can recoat, anything over 24 hours requires sanding.