Rebel Pioneer Mini Split Install
- Thread starter jonathan75
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jonathan75
Well-known member
That is true, if you run them both together it should work great. I will do a dual test during a very cold day and post the results.
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
Nice! It's about 45* F outside, the Unit is set at 78* and the thermometer on the opposite side of the space is reading 66*.
I can live with that. It does seem to struggle when the temp outside is below 30*. I chalk that up to not enough insulation.
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I can live with that. It does seem to struggle when the temp outside is below 30*. I chalk that up to not enough insulation.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
The mounting height is optimized for cooling. When used for heat you must turn the temp up around 5 degrees higher then the target temperature. Warm air rises and it can turn off before you reach the desired temperature.
It does work well and ever so quiet. I am very happy with this unit. Heating and cooling all in one and both work well!
Notgrownup
Well-known member
I guess in NC we need to have it for cooling primarily...
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
This winter had been great so far. Very mild.
Notgrownup
Well-known member
Yep...I forget where you are but it has been mild.., you around the RDU area?
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
Yes, North Raleigh.
Notgrownup
Well-known member
Bless your heart. Lol....I hate traffic lol. I use to live in Toronto so Snow Hill I kinda quiet.
cagullett1
Well-known member
Hey Jonathan, have you had a chance to turn the cool your garage yet this year? I've wanted one of these for a while and haven't decided if the 18k btu is worth the extra 12k btu in my 20x20.
Also, you mentioned previously you ran 10-3 NM wire because you had that laying around. Did you need the neutral wire, or would 10-2 (or 12-2) have been fine?
Also, you mentioned previously you ran 10-3 NM wire because you had that laying around. Did you need the neutral wire, or would 10-2 (or 12-2) have been fine?
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
I almost turned it on yesterday but didn't need to. I would stick to 18K unless your garage is really well insulated. You won't regret it.
You don't need the neutral wire. You only need two hots and a ground.
miketyler
Well-known member
Hi Jonathan - are you still happy with your Pioneer setup? I am looking at products for my garage/loft space something on the order of a 36k multizone (one each for garage and loft) with 24k for the floor and 12k cassette for the loft.
I have an email into them to get pricing and availability
I have an email into them to get pricing and availability
OP
jonathan75
Well-known member
Still works great! My brother just purchased one also. It is quiet and efficient. No complaints.
Fatboyslim
Active member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2014
- Messages
- 26
I installed a rebel 12k btu 230v in my garage this spring. Very quite and very good cooling. Very impressed with the unit.
cagullett1
Well-known member
What happened to the simply ductless system highseer used to sell? Now they only have the inverter+ versions. I was able to get a 12K BTU unit for roughly $600 shipped. Not it's over $100 more for the inverter+ version.
Pawl
Active member
I think it has to do with the government mandating a higher seer rating.
just an fyi, 240v is not any more efficient, it simply allows more current flow out of smaller wire/conductors. Hence why power lines are 1000's of volts.
Power or Wattage, not current (amps).
That is a misleading post, because you can absolutely increase electricity flow with higher voltage on the same wire.
Lets say you have a 14 gauge wire that is on a 15 breaker supplying 115,000 volts.
You could step that line down to 100 separate 115 volt circuits, and run (100) 15 amp space heaters.
So basically that 14 gauge 115,000 volt wire is supplying you with 1500 amps @ 115 volts.
Hi all,
So I am ready to order the 24K BTU unit for my 40' X 30' garage shop.
This thread was a great help to ensure I had the correct tools, etc.
However how the heck do I drill a 2.75" hole in my concrete block wall?
Just wondering.
Thanks
Jeff
So I am ready to order the 24K BTU unit for my 40' X 30' garage shop.
This thread was a great help to ensure I had the correct tools, etc.
However how the heck do I drill a 2.75" hole in my concrete block wall?
Just wondering.
Thanks
Jeff
Heel2toe
Well-known member
What was the temperature outside when you took that reading?
Im a little concerned as I had a Mitsubishi Hyper Heat unit installed a few months back and Im not sure it will be able to output enought heat for my garage.
I haven't finished insulating the space yet due to an injury I suffered in the beginning of the year so Im still slowly recovering however it struggled to even raise the temperature more than 20 degrees over ambient. Obviously sealing up the envelope and finishing the insulation will make a significant difference however when I shot my infared temp gauge at it I dont recall the air coming out being more than 80 degrees.
Should I reach back out to the guy that I had install it or does that sound about right? I dont recall the temperature outside however my unit is supposed to deliver 100% capacity up to 5 degrees and it certainly wasn't that cold when I tested it. Seeing your picture with temps coming over out ~120 makes me think something is wrong with my system.
Heel2toe
Well-known member
Jeff you will need to rent or buy a core drill if you'd like to have a clean cut through the concrete.
Hi folks,
I live in houston subrubs and got pioneer inverter+. Jonathan thanks for very detailed and excellent explanation of install.
I was wondering if anyone in houston area did the self install. I bought two of these units, drilled hole thru brick and hung indoor unit on wall. My wall is 11 inches long so the large copper pipe just barely comes out. I dont think i can bend it.
i probably need to bend line set extension. I am going to include picture. any suggestions are much appreciated.
I live in houston subrubs and got pioneer inverter+. Jonathan thanks for very detailed and excellent explanation of install.
I was wondering if anyone in houston area did the self install. I bought two of these units, drilled hole thru brick and hung indoor unit on wall. My wall is 11 inches long so the large copper pipe just barely comes out. I dont think i can bend it.
i probably need to bend line set extension. I am going to include picture. any suggestions are much appreciated.
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chrispyny
Well-known member
Ouch. That *****. I would recommend the low side flare be cut off, cut the tube back 6 inches, have a 2 foot section brazed on (you or hire a pro) and then bend and add flare. Simple fix. Just time consuming. If you do this, your brazed joint should be inside the wall, and your bend will be free and clear copper pipe, good luck, keep us posted.
Buy some copper pipe and start practicing your brazes. Once they look pretty, do it yourself. You need ore than a propane torch to get it done.
Also, while brazing, purge with nitrogen to prevent scaling and **** building up inside copper pipe, contaminating your system.
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justinjoyal
Well-known member
Please tell me the indoor unit was properly installed and doesnt actually sit like it does on the picture....
That suction line can be bent without problem btw.
That suction line can be bent without problem btw.
I finally installed both of them. I couldnt bend the larger copper pipe so 5-6 inches of casing is needed. i am going to custom build the casing of 6-10 inches from the wall and leave it as is. since its on the side of the wall, i think it would look nice as well.
I vaccummed and checked for leaks. so far no leaks and the units are functioning very well for last 5 days. i will check for leaks again this weekend. if everything is in good shapre i will do the casing around.
I will put some pictures. if anyone in houston area needs help with this, let me know. i think i learned quite a bit on this project and thank all of you on this site.
I vaccummed and checked for leaks. so far no leaks and the units are functioning very well for last 5 days. i will check for leaks again this weekend. if everything is in good shapre i will do the casing around.
I will put some pictures. if anyone in houston area needs help with this, let me know. i think i learned quite a bit on this project and thank all of you on this site.
handymancanfixit
Well-known member
I think what he was referring to is that the indoor unit does not look level in the pic you posted. Is that just the angle of the photo, or is it really out of level that bad?
roadrunner255
Well-known member
I will be installing 2 of the single 18K units for my 1400 sq ft detached garage.
Can the line set and drainage tube be installed on either side of the inside unit?
Thanks!
Can the line set and drainage tube be installed on either side of the inside unit?
Thanks!
They can, but you won't have much of a lead if you install it on the left (?) side. It may or may not be easier to hook up that way.
FWIW the leads on the 12k unit I installed were a bit too short to make it through my brick wall, even using the right side hole. That made the 90 degree turn coming out of the wall a bit tricky to bend. The damn pipes are easy to kink so be careful.
FWIW the leads on the 12k unit I installed were a bit too short to make it through my brick wall, even using the right side hole. That made the 90 degree turn coming out of the wall a bit tricky to bend. The damn pipes are easy to kink so be careful.
stretchhenry
Member
Best to check the manual for your mini-split. My LG came with short connecting pipes that exited from the right hand side of the air handler but could be bent depending what side your hole was.
roadrunner255
Well-known member
Did you braze on a new line?
I've got 9" of wall to go thru since I have a metal building.
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Hi Jonathan,
I am brand new to this forum but was wondering if you are still pleased with your pioneer mini-split?
Does it meet your needs with heating?
Thanks
handymancanfixit
Well-known member
I used a Spyder hole saw with carbide teeth to bore through brick and sheathing for a 4" bathroom vent pipe. The Lowe's stores near me carry them. Cost me $50 bucks for the saw and arbor. I priced renting a core drill and bit at $150. I then used the same hole saw to bore through roofing shingles and sheathing so that i could install a plumbing vent pipe. I have definitely gotten my money's worth.
http://www.spyderproducts.com/toolpages/spyder-hole-saw/
sharkytm
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Just to add my experiences to the big Pioneer thread. I purchased a 120V, 9K Btu system, shipping was relatively quick on 2 mini-pallets. Liftgate delivery at no added cost, which was nice. Pallets were banged up, but the packaging did its job and nothing inside was damaged. I used a wall bracket, so couldn't use the heavy anti-vibe feet that I purchased, but if it was pad-mounted, they looked pretty sturdy. I'll use them for something else. The included condensate drain line is really cheap, so I swapped it with heavier-wall marine bilge pump tubing.
I had ordered a 25' lineset, it came packed separately. I cut about 3 feet off of. I didn't need a special flaring tool, my old brake line flaring tool worked a treat. I did forget to put the flare nut on the liquid line before flaring it the first time (as per protocol), but I had plenty of extra to cover the difference. I purchased a RobinAir 15310 vacuum pump, Mastercool 59661 gauge/hose set (with integrated shutoffs, which are key), a YJ R410a adapter, and a CPS micron gauge. I had THHN around from other projects, but elected to purchase some 14-3+g UF-B to run from the inside unit to the outside unit as per local code. This isn't available at a big-box store, they only had 14-2+ground, and I needed 14-3+ground. I already had a Nitrogen tank and regulator for the low-pressure test, but needed to buy a high-pressure regulator to run the full-pressure 450PSI test.
Basically, I followed the install instructions, mounted the indoor bracket, drilled the hole at the requisite angle, mounted the indoor unit, connected the lineset, drain, and UF-B, ran the lineset cover base, bundled the first few feet of the lineset, ran and secured the lineset to ground level, did the electrical connections first, then cut and re-flared the lineset. Connected it up, did a vacuum pull to 500 microns to check for gross leaks, then 150PSI N2 pressure test with leak-check solution on all joints. When that had held overnight (not necessary, but it was late when I got it installed), I did another evac to 500 microns, held for an hour, then N2 to 450PSI again held overnight. Finally, I changed the oil in the vacuum pump, pulled it to 300 microns, waited 3 hours (it held at 380 microns), and released the charge. Tested the AC, tested the heat, cleaned everything up... done and finished!
All told, almost $500 in tools, $750 shipped for the system, and $350 in additional supplies (lineset cover, AC disconnect, conduit and fittings, UF-B). $1535, and I've got the tools to do it again, extra lineset cover that I'll likely sell, and a bunch of experience. If I wanted, I could sell the tools as well. Not bad compared to $4000 quoted install price from 2 local companies.
Pictures:
Lineset run, everything mounted. I used the 4.5" Fortress cover from Rectorseal, and should have gotten the 3.5", but the supply house was out of stock and I didn't want to wait another week to get it from Amazon (they were backordered as well).
Pressure Test at 450PSI from a Dry Nitrogen tank. I did a full triple-evac on the system.
Final micron reading before releasing the charge.
I had ordered a 25' lineset, it came packed separately. I cut about 3 feet off of. I didn't need a special flaring tool, my old brake line flaring tool worked a treat. I did forget to put the flare nut on the liquid line before flaring it the first time (as per protocol), but I had plenty of extra to cover the difference. I purchased a RobinAir 15310 vacuum pump, Mastercool 59661 gauge/hose set (with integrated shutoffs, which are key), a YJ R410a adapter, and a CPS micron gauge. I had THHN around from other projects, but elected to purchase some 14-3+g UF-B to run from the inside unit to the outside unit as per local code. This isn't available at a big-box store, they only had 14-2+ground, and I needed 14-3+ground. I already had a Nitrogen tank and regulator for the low-pressure test, but needed to buy a high-pressure regulator to run the full-pressure 450PSI test.
Basically, I followed the install instructions, mounted the indoor bracket, drilled the hole at the requisite angle, mounted the indoor unit, connected the lineset, drain, and UF-B, ran the lineset cover base, bundled the first few feet of the lineset, ran and secured the lineset to ground level, did the electrical connections first, then cut and re-flared the lineset. Connected it up, did a vacuum pull to 500 microns to check for gross leaks, then 150PSI N2 pressure test with leak-check solution on all joints. When that had held overnight (not necessary, but it was late when I got it installed), I did another evac to 500 microns, held for an hour, then N2 to 450PSI again held overnight. Finally, I changed the oil in the vacuum pump, pulled it to 300 microns, waited 3 hours (it held at 380 microns), and released the charge. Tested the AC, tested the heat, cleaned everything up... done and finished!
All told, almost $500 in tools, $750 shipped for the system, and $350 in additional supplies (lineset cover, AC disconnect, conduit and fittings, UF-B). $1535, and I've got the tools to do it again, extra lineset cover that I'll likely sell, and a bunch of experience. If I wanted, I could sell the tools as well. Not bad compared to $4000 quoted install price from 2 local companies.
Pictures:
Lineset run, everything mounted. I used the 4.5" Fortress cover from Rectorseal, and should have gotten the 3.5", but the supply house was out of stock and I didn't want to wait another week to get it from Amazon (they were backordered as well).
Pressure Test at 450PSI from a Dry Nitrogen tank. I did a full triple-evac on the system.
Final micron reading before releasing the charge.
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co-pilot
Member
nice job!....
work-n on my 18k btu garage install rite now..
work-n on my 18k btu garage install rite now..