Rebuild Old Walker Floor Jack??

[Kevin wrinkles]

I need someone who can get a rebuild kit or someone who will rebuild it at a affordable price it is a walker g874

 

[StanTheMan]

Hiball,
I also need parts for a Walker 784 Series E, but I can't figure out how to contact you.

 

[BB767]

Just thought in case someone was reading this and wanted after pictures of the Walker on this post, here are a few afters of it done to factory specifications, paint and all...







As mentioned earlier, more on this project can be found in the Garage Galley forum under: "Restored 1930's Auto Shop"

Here's a link to that thread:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51567

The actual Walker discussion part starts on page 22, post #421 and continues throughout the thread showing various Walker restoration photographs (among others) up to page 173, post #3460 and it's completion.

I hope this is helpful to future folks doing some background checks on Walker restorations when they come across this thread.

Thomas

 

[Hiball]

Very Nice Thomas...

 

[BB767]

Very Nice Thomas...

All the internal power cylinder refurbishment on both Walkers is a tribute to your excellent work Steve.

Not sure if you followed on my shop thread, all the twists and turns I went through to bring that Walker back to as new condition. It was a very rewarding project that turned out as well as I'd hoped it would.

They both operate flawlessly now and are visually nice to look at I think. Perfect in a 1930's Auto Shop. They'll be around long after I'm gone.

Thanks again Steve for all your extra efforts and patience.

Thomas

 

[LUCard]

I'm glad I found this forum!

My uncle, who was in his 80s and a life-long self employed mechanic, recently passed away. I inherited these two Walker floor jacks from him. They are not as old as the ones in the other pictures, and the identification tag is almost destroyed. I'd be grateful for any information on these jacks. I was close to my uncle and I want to return these jacks to working order.

The jacks will not lift at all.

 

[Hiball]

Pm sent with Information on your Jacks including Rebuild Kits.

Steven

 

[dognumb]

have accuired an Old walker jack..?? was told it was sent out to be repaired?? returned and will lift with no weight, but will not under a load...???... where does one start with what is needed.. its a nice jack and want to restore it..

 

[Hiball]

have accuired an Old walker jack..?? was told it was sent out to be repaired?? returned and will lift with no weight, but will not under a load...???... where does one start with what is needed.. its a nice jack and want to restore it..

Need More Info, Model etc.. ?

 

[EDGAR]

There is a thread about rebuilding a WALKER 93632 on GJ. Take a look at it so you have an idea of what you are getting into. You will need to fabricate a special tool to remove the tank nut which, by the way, is tightened at the factory to 200 - 250 ft. lbs. So, if you have a good impact tool, you will have no problems.

Do not use a pipe wrench to remove this nut as this will damage the nut's edge that seals the oil tank. This jack jack does not use any type of sealing washer between the tank nut and the oil tank or between the tank and the pump body. It is a metal to metal seal and that is way it is tightened to the above mentioned torque figure.

Also, do not try the punch and hammer way as this will only damage the nut's slots and you will need to generate at least 200 ft. lbs to remove the nut. If you were so lucky as to remove it with a punch and hammer is only because the jack was repaired before and the nut was not tightened enough during the repair.

Below is the link.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80165&highlight=jacks

 

[Hiball]

There is a thread about rebuilding a WALKER 93632 on GJ. Take a look at it so you have an idea of what you are getting into. You will need to fabricate a special tool to remove the tank nut which, by the way, is tightened at the factory to 200 - 250 ft. lbs. So, if you have a good impact tool, you will have no problems.

Do not use a pipe wrench to remove this nut as this will damage the nut's edge that seals the oil tank. This jack jack does not use any type of sealing washer between the tank nut and the oil tank or between the tank and the pump body. It is a metal to metal seal and that is way it is tightened to the above mentioned torque figure.

Also, do not try the punch and hammer way as this will only damage the nut's slots and you will need to generate at least 200 ft. lbs to remove the nut. If you were so lucky as to remove it with a punch and hammer is only because the jack was repaired before and the nut was not tightened enough during the repair.

Below is the link.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80165&highlight=jacks

That's a good tutorial put together by David, but lets not put Cart ahead of the horse. If dognumbs jack is in fact a 93632 and it was recently "repaired" I suspect the internals have been replaced and since its lifting "without" load I'd venture to bet its a valve issue (overload) or a release issue. Neither of which require tearing into the cylinder.

To be of more help, we need more info. Oh.. And welcome to GJ.

 

[EDGAR]

Hiball, I did not say it was repaired recently, or ever, so it could actually be an u-cup issue. I was only refering to the ease or difficulty in removing the tank nut by using the punch and hammer method. If he is able to remove it using this method, it implies either that it was not properly tightened at the factory or that it was repaired before and the nut was not tightened as required. I doubt that this type of tank nut, tightened to specs , can be removed with the punch and hammer method.

This body style is pretty old and if it was fitted at the factory with an urethane u-cup, you can bet it is a broken u-cup as these do not last more than 12 to 18 or so years depending on usage. An u-cup in an old jack that is seldom used will harden sooner, become brittle, and break easily afterwards. A jack that is used frequently will last longer as the usage keeps the u-cup flexible for a longer time. Anyway, both u-cups will eventually break, sooner or later; there is no escaping that fate!

 

[Hiball]

Hiball, I did not say it was repaired recently, or ever, so it could actually be an u-cup issue. I was only refering to the ease or difficulty in removing the tank nut by using the punch and hammer method.

.

This is a old thread that was resurrected today by dognumb, he never mentioned what model of jack he had, only that it was "recently repaired", but wouldn't lift a load.

Wires crossed?

This body style is pretty old and if it was fitted at the factory with an urethane u-cup, you can bet it is a broken u-cup as these do not last more than 12 to 18 or so years depending on usage. An u-cup in an old jack that is seldom used will harden sooner, become brittle, and break easily afterwards. A jack that is used frequently will last longer as the usage keeps the u-cup flexible for a longer time. Anyway, both u-cups will eventually break, sooner or later; there is no escaping that fate.

This I agree with this, 99 times out of 100 when some one contacts me "claiming" that there jack has quit working all of sudden that is the direction I point them to, especially if they noticed any leakage around the tank nut. I've probably torn down over 1000 9xxxx series walkers/Lincoln's only to find a crumbled up mess in the bottom along with a smashed up heel plate and washer.

 

[EDGAR]

Hiball, there was a misunderstanding. My post was actually meant for LUcard 's post, #46 and not to post #48 where the jack model is not identified. I see now that it was an old post. Sorry about that.

I agree with you that if the jack mentioned in post #48 stops working suddenly or sometime later after being repaired, it is an issue with the valves. Probably the pump body was not flushed properly before assembling the new parts. This happens when the repairman wants to do the least possible work when repairing the jack. Of course, I am assuming that a new u-cup was installed instead of reclycling the old one, which could happen with cheap repairmen.

Flushing the pump body a few times, after removing all the valves and the release stem, is absolutely necessary to remove any particles left from the broken u-cup that could later jam the valves. In some cases, these particles move with the oil flow inside the oil galleries until one day, one is trapped between a valve ball and the hole where the ball is inserted preventing the ball from moving at all. Also, any other dirt inside the pump can affect the seating of the valve balls.

 

[emeyer]

Hi Hiball

I just bought a sweet Walker 884 Series B and don't know a dam thing about it. I am looking to refurb it but am not 100% what it needs. The jack works somewhat and I don't see any leaks as of yet. The arm will lift up but does not have any power once you put it under a car. (Could be as easy as topping off the oil but again I don't have a manual.) Is there a process you can recommend and also if I do replace the seals do you still sell rebuild kits? Anywhere I could get a manual? Thanks in advance for any help.

Eric

 

[Hiball]

Hi Hiball

I just bought a sweet Walker 884 Series B and don't know a dam thing about it. I am looking to refurb it but am not 100% what it needs. The jack works somewhat and I don't see any leaks as of yet. The arm will lift up but does not have any power once you put it under a car. (Could be as easy as topping off the oil but again I don't have a manual.) Is there a process you can recommend and also if I do replace the seals do you still sell rebuild kits? Anywhere I could get a manual? Thanks in advance for any help.

Eric

PM Sent...

 

[kcman]

I have an old Walker Model J-134 series AA that works (or worked til I broke it) great old 4 ton but I broke the "cap housing" I think what it is called, the part into which the cap or cradle is put into. Been looking every where on line for the part, can't find it. Managed to find a picture of the manual from the 1940's or 1950's. Another parts blowup picture of a Lincoln 4-ton called it a model 93657. So any one know where I can get parts? I'm in KC, looking for Hi-ball to get back with me - I hear you're the expert in this Hi-ball.

 

[Hiball]

I have an old Walker Model J-134 series AA that works (or worked til I broke it) great old 4 ton but I broke the "cap housing" I think what it is called, the part into which the cap or cradle is put into. Been looking every where on line for the part, can't find it. Managed to find a picture of the manual from the 1940's or 1950's. Another parts blowup picture of a Lincoln 4-ton called it a model 93657. So any one know where I can get parts? I'm in KC, looking for Hi-ball to get back with me - I hear you're the expert in this Hi-ball.

I believe I have a few frames that I cabbage parts off of, Ill get back to you after the holidays.

Steven

 

[Neura]

I am looking at walker jack but can't find a name plate on it. Leaks oil and comes with a 4 liter pail of oil. suspect just needs new seals in the ram. anyone know what the model number might be on this jack so I can get some parts for it. I would like to restore it back to original or close to original.

 

[kafuzd]

I have a walker model 767 series A floor jack looking for cylinder rebuild kit and instuctions. Was mentioned walkers are blue but this one is red and best I can tell it was never repainted.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I am looking at walker jack but can't find a name plate on it. Leaks oil and comes with a 4 liter pail of oil. suspect just needs new seals in the ram. anyone know what the model number might be on this jack so I can get some parts for it. I would like to restore it back to original or close to original.

I have a walker model 767 series A floor jack looking for cylinder rebuild kit and instuctions. Was mentioned walkers are blue but this one is red and best I can tell it was never repainted.

You guys need to PM Hiball for info and parts.

 

[garagemon]

Hello all
I have an old WALKER Floor Jack I would like to rebuild
The numbers I have found are G2613 inside the sides are also numbers, probably casting numbers G904 & G914.
Below are pictures, If anyone can Identify and tell me anything about it and where I might find a rebuild kit it would be much appreciated...
If assisted when pumping it up it will come up and then it will slowly fall after a while.
Thanks for any help
Fred

 

[Builderrhys]

I don't often find many good "tool" scores in my neck of the woods but here goes. $75.00 Canadian Pesos this morning on a local buy and sell website in Sarnia, On. The pump has just been rebuilt by an hydraulic company in London, On. That would of been over $75.00 right there. The gentleman I purchased it from had taken it in on a debt owed to him. I suggested it was worth more than he was asking but he refused to accept any more. He even had me test it before I paid for it. Can anyone suggest a manufacture date. I cannot find a serial number. There are more numbers cast in to the center linkage if that will help. Here are some pictures. Thanks, Rhys.

I even used it today to swap both vehicles over from the winter set to the summer set.

 

[Hiball]

884 was the 2nd Series of that design, The First being the 784 Series.. I know of NO way to Accurately Date those series off any Stamping, Based off Literature ive Read along with talking to People. That Jack dates anywhere from 40's into the 60's till Walker replaced it with a J134, Which essentially used the Same Hydraulic Unit with Subtle changes. I would say you did very well for $75.

 

[KMinAF]

When I restored my old Walker Roll-A-Car 770 it turned out so nice I don't ever use it in fear of getting it dirty or scratched, so now it is a center piece/shop art/conversation starter in the "man Cave".
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=139294&highlight=walker

 

[Dcow]

Hello. I am brand new to this forum. I have what I believe is an Ajax model (green) Walker floor jack that I acquired used in about 1968-69. It has had light use since that time and still works fine. I broke the little U-joint that connects the handle to the on-off valve. Is it possible to purchase a replacement U-joint? I don't remember what model it is and the labels have long ago worn off. It appears to be exactly the same jack as the photos in message #46 of this thread except for the color. I will try to attach photos of my jack to this message. Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

 

[shooter76blue]

HiBall,
I contacted you a few years ago about a Lincoln 4 ton floor jack (Model 884) that was given to me. The jack does lift but will not hold a load and leaks. I had a friend working in a machine shop who said he would take a look at it and I gave him all the pictures and e-mails you had sent me. That friend left and never got around to my jack. Now I have a co-worker working in the same shop (part time). I am hoping to get this jack fixed. Please PM me so we can talk about parts...

 

[bim38]

Hello all,
I'm new to this site and have read that a guy named "Hi Ball" knows Walker Jacks. Well I have a Model 882 "Roll-A-Car" floor jack. What I need is a rebuild kit and some basic info on to the rebuild. I am hands on kind of guy and like to fix things myself. I have most tools found in a shop and I think I'm pretty good at fixing things.

Thanks,

 

[Hiball]

Hello all,
I'm new to this site and have read that a guy named "Hi Ball" knows Walker Jacks. Well I have a Model 882 "Roll-A-Car" floor jack. What I need is a rebuild kit and some basic info on to the rebuild. I am hands on kind of guy and like to fix things myself. I have most tools found in a shop and I think I'm pretty good at fixing things.

Thanks,

1st things first, remove the hydraulic unit from the frame, this will require splitting the frame, in other words you will have to remove at least 1 side. Once you get at least 1 frame side removed, its fairly straight forward on getting the hydraulic unit out.

The next step and probably the most difficult portion of the rebuild, you will need to remove the tank nut. The tank nuts are spanner versions, and designed to keep unauthorized service centers from servicing the jack.

Here is a link that shows how member georgia hybrid made a socket to remove the nut. Once you get the tank nut off, this will allow you access to the cylinder and then you can verify if the jack is rebuildable or will require some service. The 882 is A very old unit and not all are serviceable with only a kit, don't worry about the valves quite yet (leave them be for the time being), next remove the pump pistons and check the condition of the cylinders and pistons themselves.

If you have any further questions don't hesitate to contact me via PM.

 

[MixManSC]

Since this seems to a be a good ongoing good thread on these....

Just picked up from our state surplus property office a Lincoln 10 ton jack. For $20 I could not resist.

It's been painted over at some point in its life and currently is only useful as a narrow cart. It will not raise up at all.... I'd going to tackle rebuilding it as it seems to be good, solid, serviceable and just in need of some attention. Both tags were painted over and in poor shape but I've managed to carefully remove the paint and can tell you this much. Model is a 93660, the pump casting #234342 and the tricky bit which is the most difficult to determine is the series. As best as I can tell on the one tag it looks to be a series C. Serial number is a riveted on metal tag instead of a stick on aluminum tag, SN# K660A12045. I saw some rebuild kits on the web, some show different kits for different series while Blackhawk just shows one kit.

Regardless it looks as though Hiball might be the best option as I'd always prefer to do business with someone who is helpful on forums like this. Shoot me some info on my jack Hiball.

Couple of photos (I do have the top cover for it). One showing the whole jack along with other projects in the background like an older JLG scissor lift, and a 1985 Clark forklift I recently got running. Second is a shot of what is left of the better of the 2 tags on the jack. Not much to work with there.... I'd like to find good clean photos of a label for one as well as the other labels. I have a sign company so I'm going to ultimately make new decals for it.

 

[EDGAR]

Apparently, the only parts breakdown available online is the one for the series E. Check below.

http://www.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/Lincoln_93660_Series_E_Hydraulic_Service_Jack_10_Ton.pdf

 

[MixManSC]

Thank you sir! Not for the exact series but helpful regardless.

 

[Hiball]

Since this seems to a be a good ongoing good thread on these....

Just picked up from our state surplus property office a Lincoln 10 ton jack. For $20 I could not resist.

It's been painted over at some point in its life and currently is only useful as a narrow cart. It will not raise up at all.... I'd going to tackle rebuilding it as it seems to be good, solid, serviceable and just in need of some attention. Both tags were painted over and in poor shape but I've managed to carefully remove the paint and can tell you this much. Model is a 93660, the pump casting #234342 and the tricky bit which is the most difficult to determine is the series. As best as I can tell on the one tag it looks to be a series C. Serial number is a riveted on metal tag instead of a stick on aluminum tag, SN# K660A12045. I saw some rebuild kits on the web, some show different kits for different series while Blackhawk just shows one kit.

Regardless it looks as though Hiball might be the best option as I'd always prefer to do business with someone who is helpful on forums like this. Shoot me some info on my jack Hiball.

Couple of photos (I do have the top cover for it). One showing the whole jack along with other projects in the background like an older JLG scissor lift, and a 1985 Clark forklift I recently got running. Second is a shot of what is left of the better of the 2 tags on the jack. Not much to work with there.... I'd like to find good clean photos of a label for one as well as the other labels. I have a sign company so I'm going to ultimately make new decals for it.

I don't have exploded view diagrams in the C series, I have them in D and E in Paper form. I cant speak for all Hydraulic Seal Kits, But I know of NO difference between the Series that would require a specific kit, They should be Universal and cover all Series.

PM sent in regards to a Kit.

 

[MixManSC]

Thanks! Well good news sort of.... It was a government surplus jack. It had been sitting outside for at least a year. Opened the plastic cap toward the top of the cylinder and could not see any oil. Still have a couple of gallons left from the forklift rebuild of hydraulic oil. It took at least 20 ounces or so - only had a 2oz syringe handy so I used that to fill it since I do not have a funnel with a 1/8" tip. Why do they put such a stupidly tiny fill hole? Anyways I had to fill the syringe at least a dozen or more times to get it full.

The jack works! A bit stiff and sluggish. I'll grease and lube the joints next but it does work. Just to give it a real test I lifted the counterweight end of the forklift about 4" off the floor! That forklift is a 5000lb capacity - the counterweight end is massively heavy and the jack lifted it right up. The jack is covered in thick dirty grease though and it looks like it was probably leaking so I'm sure it still will be.

Once I get some time I'll post some other threads.... I have a sign company and about a year ago I bought a property where we now run out of. It was an old millwork. We moved from renting 1500sf into 21500sf! 240v 3ph delta, 600amp power coming in too. The property is actually 2 buildings, going to rent out one. The one I'm using has about 3500sf finished office area, rest is well insulated shop. One fun current project is I'm converting about 40 8 foot 2 lamp t12 strip lights out in the shop to 2 lamp T5HO. Those buggers are crazily bright - 2 skinny little 4 foot bulbs are much brighter than 2 fat 8 foot bulbs and use about 30 watts less electric.

 

[john walker]

heh guys, i have a walker j134 series floor jack, it raises , but will not hold more than couple hundred pounds. i split the jack in 2 and got the hydraulic ram apart, and cleaned the inside. piston and cylinder wall look fine.refilled with hydraulic oil and still wont hold load. what do you suggest from here?

 

[Hiball]

heh guys, i have a walker j134 series floor jack, it raises , but will not hold more than couple hundred pounds. i split the jack in 2 and got the hydraulic ram apart, and cleaned the inside. piston and cylinder wall look fine.refilled with hydraulic oil and still wont hold load. what do you suggest from here?

Any handle feedback when it drops? Did you check the release cone/seat? Only 200lbs Lift Capacity would be a substantial Issue.

 

[john walker]

thx for getting back hiball, when i pulled the handle down to pump it felt like the first half of the stroke had minimal resistance, an old timer helping me explained that the jack has 2 speeds and we are having problem with the high side?anyway i looked at georgiahybrids excellent pics and understand now when we had it apart we didnt take off the tank nut and look inside there. he asked if you could send a schematic for a walker j134 series f sos we make sure we have everything right and may need a seal kit from you when we get it apart again. ths so much hiball!!

 

[roscomacaw]

I was given a Walker 10 ton a few years ago. It worked fine at that time. Sadly, letting it set all this time has rendered it inop. This thing has twin pistons (one small - one large). Am I going to be able to find parts to revive it?

 

[strelnik]

I have a wonderful, old, large 1950's era 4 ton Walker floor jack that is leaking fluid. I have had limited success trying to find a rebuild service kit or a business that will rebuild it for me. They all said to just replace the whole jack which I will not do. My feeling is cost is not a factor. It lasted many years and I expect it will do so again if rebuild properly. Has anyone had any experience or advice along a similar situation? Thank you.

Thomas

Go to this place, a complete kit will cost under 40.00 with instructions and a diagram for special tools if required.

http://www.iserv.net/~wmogrady/lube/jack/lincoln/lincoln_walker_rep.html

 

[Hiball]

Go to this place, a complete kit will cost under 40.00 with instructions and a diagram for special tools if required.

http://www.iserv.net/~wmogrady/lube/jack/lincoln/lincoln_walker_rep.html

Is the price sheet in the link no good? It looks like the 784/884 kit is $67.20?