Received a estimate today.

[dreamingmuscle]

30x40x12 pole barn with one 12 x 10 door, one 10x10 door, two man doors and a 12x40 loafing shed down the back side.

4" of 3500# concrete with 3/8th rebar on 2' centers.

The 12x10 door will be one the north end while the 10x10 door will be on the west side of the south west corner. Hopefully this will help with air flow. And make it easier to get stuff out of the garage with out having to pass any projects parked by the big door.

He said floor to bottom of the joist height will be about 11'2" when all said and done. I'm a little worried about the clearance height for a lift if I can ever afford one.

Now to do some due diligence and check his references and the BBB. I have already checked the court records. He has been sued twice in 15 years and both were quickly dismissed.

All said and done for $15,300

I think I'm going to pull the trigger on this one.
________
volcano vaporizers

 

[930dreamer]

If there's any chance of a lift in your future, make sure what you build now will support it, ie wall/ceiling height. Many here will pick out the lift location and have a deeper footing poured where it will be. Your in the position to do it right. Good luck on whoever you choose for the builder

 

[Mike in Ohio]

I built a 30 by 48 by 12 two summers ago. We did everything everything but the concrete. I have close to $15,000 in it already.Still no insullation or finished interior walls. I have a 11' tall by 10' wide door that my old boss gave me at one end, A 7x16 on one side and a 7x9 on the opposite side that I bought. The concrete is 4" thick for most of the building and 5" thick in the area I plan to put a lift someday it has the wire mesh and plastic vapor barrier with about 4" of gravel under it. The bill for the concrete was $4500.
My inside height to the bottom of the trusses is 11'5". If worst comes to worst I can put the posts of the lift between the trusses if they are a little too high. But I think I will be able to stand up straight under any vehicle I own or want to own.
Good luck with your build, that price sounds pretty good for what you are getting. Check the guys references and if possible go and look at something he built and talk to the owner if you can. As for the lawsuits if they were dismissed that fast I wouldn't worry too much. My brother is a doctor, he was sued one time for saying " I'm not sure whats wrong you better go see a specialist" . The specialist screwed up and the patient sued everybody in sight. It didn't take long for my brother to get his name off of the suit but it still shows up in the records.

Mike

 

[rwhite692]

Wow that seems cheap!

 

[nate379]

I would suggest at least a 6" slab min. Here we do a 5 or 6 sack mix, I think that is 3500 or 4000psi.

 

[pinebarkauto]

I have the 12' ceiling in my Morton building and wish I had gone 14' every time I put my 3/4 ton pick up on my 4 post lift for oil change. If you decide to stay with 12', DO NOT place any lifts under overhead door track areas. I have 10' doors with automatic openers and damaged the roof on my '66 Biscayne that was about 1/4" too high on the lift when I opened the door. I moved my lift after that. Also, look at your floorplan and see if you see an area that would be suitable for a mezzanine for parts storage. If so, 16' would be nice. Chip.

 

[toytech40]

Most of the lifts I have worked around needed just shy of 14 ft to work properly, so 14 or 16 ft sidewalls would be a plus. It would also give you room for a mezzanine for storeage of lesser used items and free up the floor space for better working areas.

 

[dreamingmuscle]

I have the 12' ceiling in my Morton building and wish I had gone 14' every time I put my 3/4 ton pick up on my 4 post lift for oil change. If you decide to stay with 12', DO NOT place any lifts under overhead door track areas. I have 10' doors with automatic openers and damaged the roof on my '66 Biscayne that was about 1/4" too high on the lift when I opened the door. I moved my lift after that. Also, look at your floorplan and see if you see an area that would be suitable for a mezzanine for parts storage. If so, 16' would be nice. Chip.

I am worried about the height. He told me its cheaper to go bigger then higher with anything over 12 foot. Due to the cost of the taller post.

A loft/mezzanine is what I would like to do but that price is all ready stretching my budget. I still have to pay for the site work. I have a guesstimate of $1000 to $2000 on that
________
trichomes

 

[logical]

12' will let a person of average height stand up under most lifted cars if the lift will even go that high. Trucks would be a different story. If you are pretty sure about eventually getting a lift and plan to work on anything but cars, now's the time to go higher.

Basically, if you can look down on the roof of what you want to work on, you'll be able to stand under it. If you decide to stay at 12, just be sure you are actually getting 12 and not 12 minus concrete minus anything else.

Edit: Just saw you will get closer to 11'...thats too little for a lift I think.

 

[HeyNow^]

I just put up a 30X40X12 building from Conestoga out of Harrisonburg VA. Four inch 3000 psi fiber concrete, two windows, two 10X10 doors on the eve ends (wish I had gone 12 ft wide on the doors) and one man door. I have an 8/12 pitch roof, rafters on 4 ft centers... $28,500. I found them high, but satisfactory. Your pricing is pretty low and sounds like a good deal. What kind of steel are they quoting?

 

[dreamingmuscle]

It's a wood frame with 40 year guarantee on the steel siding.
________
marijuana strain strawberry cough

 

[Goobzilla]

Stay with the 12' and go over the top with the lift crossbar, I'm at 10'8 to the bottom of my trusses w/a 12' sidewall. I get full lift height between the trusses:

 

[Leadfoot3232]

Sounds real similiar to what I'm building next spring..I'm planning on 12' walls but going to have scissor trusses put up over where my lift will be,I think that will work out great..

 

[bill9860]

Just finished a garage. Walls are 11 feet. Joists kick up center to 12.5 feet. When lift is all the way up I can walk under car if I am careful - I am 6'2. If you are 6 feet or less, no problem here. But if you still have the option and are serious about a lift give yourself the room (12.5 feet needed for a Bend Pak as I recall the ones I looked at. Went with Mokawk A7 that needed 12 feet). Also, the concrete would be better at 4000 PSI - a lot of 2 post lifts call for that and 3500 vs 4000 PSI is a very cheap differential

 

[larry_g]

Like Goob My building is clear between the trusses. Hopefully you can see the double trusses to the left of the lift. The poles are on 12' centers. So plenty of room inside the building to go 'tween the trusses if they run the correct direction for you. If your not building on 12' centers maybe your builder could spread a few apart and give you the room needed to go between.

lg
no neat sig line