Recommend a welder for me

[gearhead1]

I think that 180 dual would work well. Nothing wrong with supporting a local business and developing a relationship with them. Especially if they’re going to give some instruction, it’s worth it. The store is smart enough to know they will get it back over the years. Win-win. The welding supply stores around here seem to only want to cater to businesses. I’ve been looking for an AC TIG for aluminum. I went to the local welding supply (LWS) Monday and they had the Lincoln TIG 200 on display. I was the only person in the store and the 2 sales guys were not on the phone. I had my work shirt on (company logo), and doing fab work we buy a lot of welders and gases from them. We buy gas and consumables weekly if not daily sometimes. We buy argon by the truck load - the building is plumbed with lines we use so much - it’s cheaper this way than dealing with the tanks. They could barely give me the time of day when I went in there let alone any discount, or specials.

I’d say it’s worth having a good relationship with your LWS. For those in a remote area or where the LWS only cares about bigger businesses like mine, I’ve bought from these two places before:

https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc.com/

https://store.cyberweld.com/

 

[ssdave]

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[sberry]

I can and have friends that do it all with a mig and for the 1 machine general shop that is it. I work on equipment, am a career welder and have a shop stick which I also use on occasion especially for the rod at a time or reaching outdoor and sometimes just cause I can and need a little practice.
Even though I do that it could really be done mig,,, or most at 200 level. I have a big machine, do use it on occasion, mostly a cost thing not such an issue for hometimers. Mostly for hire on others equipment.

 

[sberry]

A 200 mig is a good start, its a machine I would want even if I had others added if and when at some later point. If I was working on equipment in todays market might add a used DC or even a Everlast type 160 MVP that could run 1/8 7018 on 240V but,, as a side bonus and maybe even more than a bonus it runs well on 120V. Best thing they ever invent for portable if a guy can run it.

 

[sk farmer]

some of the worst advice given on the garage gazette is " go ahead buy a 140 welder" to someone who has 220/240 volt available.

it is like saying go ahead and buy a 1/4 inch socket set because if you need anything bigger you can adapt up to a larger size. if you are only going to have one drive size a medium size like 3/8 would be a better choice.

same with a welder. there is nothing wrong with a 140 class welder if that is all the power you have or to supplement a larger machine . truth be told, to run a 140 class welder it should be on a dedicated high amp outlet which most people don't have either. a mid sized welder, like a 180 or larger is just a more capable, versatile option like a 3/8 socket set. capable of doing light work but having the ability to do heavier work if need be.

 

[sberry]

If a guy has a 140 he needs a stick in addition to it if he is working on machines like the pictures. the 180,,, while it doesnt seem like it would but is twice the machine as a 140. Where a 140 is nice is for extra machine dedicated to 023 wire, exotic and old exhause repair, foil thin material and the smaller wire is handy if you aint gotta change it out, thats not a big deal but it takes a few minutes. The 180 will run the smaller wire but its really a good 030 machine, gives it a lot more punch than the smaller one and so noticeable starting at 12 ga or so and easy with 1/8 and allows it to work some 1/4 on limited basis.

 

[dalepres]

I just completed a short welding class at the local technical college. I started with a Forney self-shielding mig. That was a huge mistake. Even the instructor could barely make working welds with it and he's been welding for 50 years and teaching for 15. The shop for the course, of course, was all 325 to 400+ amp Millers and Lincolns, all 3-phase. Since I don't have that at home I wanted to use my own welder for the class. At the instructor's suggestion, I checked out Eastwood welders and ended up buying the Eastwood MP200i, multiprocess unit.

I got it just in time for the last two days of class. The instructor opened it and set it up for me and immediately made a couple of the most beautiful t-joint welds I have ever seen; one with MIG and one with TIG.

I'm sure he broke the machine because when I started it wouldn't make welds like that any more

But in the right hands, it did amazing quality welds. Compared to the cheap Forney, I'm very, very, happy with the MP200i.

 

[Aaron_W]

I'm a very new welder, I've taken some classes and bought a welder about 18 months ago. The advice you are getting is very good, and Moonrise's post should be copied and stickied into every "I want to buy a welder post".

Sounds like you have a good local shop, I would definitely take advantage of that vs saving a few bucks online. The ability to walk in and ask questions is huge, and if they are offering to teach you even better. What a great resource to be able to come in with a project and be able to get some direction on the best way to do it.

Smart shop, they know if the treat you right you will come back.
I'm in a small town and am lucky to also have a shop that treats the home shop guys spending a few hundred a year, the same as the big guys who are spending 10's of thousands of dollars a year.

If you were mostly looking at sheet metal to at most 1/4" a 120v welder might be enough, but seeing your initial project ideas, I agree with the others that you want something that can do 240v.
Dual voltage is a very nice option, I ran my welder on 120v for the first year I bought it because I didn't have 240v available when I bought it. It is limited of course, but works where a 240v won't. Also handy if you ever want to take the welder to do a repair away from home, 120v is everywhere, 240v with the right plug not so much.

Even if you do later decide to buy an even bigger more capable machine (really mostly about better duty cycle until you go really big), the dual voltage remains a handy "travel welder" as most in the 180-220 class are 30-50lbs so easy to pick up and move, this is not true when you move into the 250+ class which often weigh more than 200lbs.

If you decide to add stick, you can get old stick welders cheap, I see Lincoln Tombstones all the time, $200-300 for an AC/DC (preferred) and the AC only I've seen as cheap as $100. They are allegedly indestructible so buying used is not a big deal.

 

[soloz2]

Well now I'm torn. Walmart has the Lincoln easy MIG 180 for $595. It seems the easy MIG might not be quite as heavy duty and the power MIG 180 Dua would come with free training, but is double the price. [emoji848]

 

[swavescatter]

If you can afford it, get a slightly bigger unit like the Miller 215 or Lincoln equivalent. You’ll probably be future proof, and if welding just isn’t your thing you can recoup most of the cost. When I factored in rebates, the nicer unit was only a few hundred more...

 

[soloz2]

If you can afford it, get a slightly bigger unit like the Miller 215 or Lincoln equivalent. You’ll probably be future proof, and if welding just isn’t your thing you can recoup most of the cost. When I factored in rebates, the nicer unit was only a few hundred more...

I was planning to followup with the local supplier and talk with them about the differences between the 210 amp units. It looks like the Lincoln is multi process and I've seen nothing but good about Miller.

If I did get the unit from Walmart I could possibly get a stick welder and still be at the same or lower than the dual and be better able to weld some of the thicker pieces. IDK. I'm watching YouTube videos and reading, but there are so many options it's kinda overwhelming.

 

[Pontiac787]

What all are your thoughts on the Hobart 210MVP vs. the Multi Handler? I’m assuming the 210 is the more competent unit for what it is.

 

[ssdave]

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[justanengineer]

I would highly recommend taking a welding course or two before buying anything. Aside from the basic mechanics of welding you will learn how to test and inspect welds and most importantly - the basics of joint design. You also will learn what machine you really need vs don’t. Buying a machine without knowing what you really want/need is like learning to weld off the internet - counterproductive. The internet is full of bad advice, prob the worst is that MIG is “easy” to learn and TIG is “hard.” In reality, MIG is the last common process taught by welding schools for good reason. As someone that owns multiple machines, I would never be without a TIG/Stick machine bc they provide the greatest capability and yield the highest quality welds. The MIGs OTOH are mostly dust collectors that wouldn’t be missed.


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[soloz2]

I have been watching videos most of the morning. A multi process machine sounds really good to me. I was thinking about stopping by the local Supply shop tomorrow as I have to drive by to go pick up a part for my wheelhorse tractor I ordered. I think I'll stop by ask some questions and see if I can learn a thing or two before making any decisions. I'd prefer to buy once cry once even if that means I don't get anything this year. That's what I told my wife when she told me she wanted to get me a welder for Christmas. I guess I done good by building her a greenhouse and expanding her garden for her birthday [emoji12]

 

[sberry]

Is the easy a gas mig? If it is it's a steal. A word of caution about school. It's a good idea with a good instructor and maybe you get good advice but beware of forming a bias.
Just cause the machine you used in a class may be the best one they ever invented doesn't make it the right machine for you.

 

[sberry]

You got some good advice here, it complicates the thought a little and too much may not be good. Give me 50$ and as a value added salesman can say for about a fact that you are a poster child for a 240 mig, if you want to economy a single voltage tap machine and if I was adding from scratch an Everlast 160 mvp.
Under a grand for machines, can carry the 13# Everlast and runs from 20/120 when needed,, super portable, dc.

 

[dalepres]

I would highly recommend taking a welding course or two before buying anything. Aside from the basic mechanics of welding you will learn how to test and inspect welds and most importantly - the basics of joint design. You also will learn what machine you really need vs don’t. Buying a machine without knowing what you really want/need is like learning to weld off the internet - counterproductive. The internet is full of bad advice, prob the worst is that MIG is “easy” to learn and TIG is “hard.” In reality, MIG is the last common process taught by welding schools for good reason. As someone that owns multiple machines, I would never be without a TIG/Stick machine bc they provide the greatest capability and yield the highest quality welds. The MIGs OTOH are mostly dust collectors that wouldn’t be missed.


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I think this is the best advice - taking a course or two first. The instructor for the course I took was full of stories, and now adding my own to his list, of people who bought a welder but later learned that they had wasted their money. He said all the manufacturers sell the really cheap (low-price) stuff and inexperienced welders jump on it without knowing better and universally regret it later.

 

[soloz2]

I stopped by the welding supply shop near my house this morning. The guy sounded knowledgeable and as nice. He gave me a price quote for everything I'd need to get set up and started out the door including an auto dimming helmet, gloves, pliers, gas and the welder. He didn't have one of the 180 Duals in stock, but he did have a 210 Multi Process. I'm wondering if it might be worth the step up in price to the 210.
I'm not sure if the multi process would 100% be worth it as it can only MIG or stick weld out of the box and would cost extra to get the TIG gun and foot control, but it looks like the 210MP can output 20-220amps where the 180 Dual can output 30-180amps. It seems for some of the larger stuff the 210 might be better suited for it. I'm not sure if stick would be better or not for the 3/8" metal on the johnny bucket.

I think either way if I buy now or wait, buying from a local shop would be worth it as they offered to get me all set up and teach me on whatever unit I buy. They said I can come in and practice with the scrap metal they have in the back room and said I could bring my projects in to work on as well.
I checked the local community colleges and the one does offer an intro MIG and TIG class, but it's full up, and is the next county over that just went to orange COVID-19 level LOL.

 

[sberry]

If you are sticking to the garage and dont care about field work then one of the multi would be great. These models are all too new for me to be really familiar with them but you can weld unlimited thickness with 125A stick. Also not every weld on or to 3/8 has to be 3/8 and not in a single pass.
For general work,,, we are not talking racing or opening an alloy shop the small work is dominated by mig. I can mig a brake line if I got to, I never use tig and half a dozen times maybe less over decades I even got to tig alum. Most of it can even be done mig.

 

[sberry]

Sounds like your local guy is working to make a sale. Locals are just waking up to the fact they lose a lot of walk in. I see a 400$ unit on the floor of a local a while back, said he had some of them out and none come back. We got a guy or 2 here I think said they replaced a fleet of Max with the Evers, said they been working the **** out of them.
If you are living in the modern world this all aint the kind of money it was 30 years ago. Discount vendors have helped keep the lid on pricing and now imports put some more on it. I hears some comments that they would be embarrassed to have it but even the fit and finish is so good that it would be beyond the scope of most welding customers and I found out they really dont care.

 

[sberry]

I hear welding instructors are becoming aware of the diy and tailoring courses to it. My instructor put me behind an AC buzzer a couple days. This is after I been using one a while. I actually used them in part of a career.

 

[MoonRise]

If you can swing it, a 210-class MIG can do most of what a guy/gal needs/wants to weld at home.

And if the MIG can't do it, then grab some stick electrodes and weld up the 3/8" steel pieces on your bucket. With that same 210-class multi-process capable machine.

Win-win there.

Don't 'worry' about the TIG stuff on the machine for now. 99% of the 210-class multi-process modern machines just do DC anyway.

DC for GMAW or FCAW (wire feed stuff) - normal

DC for SMAW (aka stick) - normal and 'better' than AC for stick welding (most of the time )

DC for GTAW (aka TIG) - normal for TIG on steel (stainless or 'plain').

The only 'capability' you'd be missing is for welding on aluminum. You can get the usual spool gun add-on for the machine and then MIG weld (some types of) aluminum.

Again, the TIG stuff on those machines is for welding on steel only (stainless or 'plain'). Not for use on aluminum.

Oh, and practice, practice, and then practice some more. Before welding anything for 'real'.

 

[soloz2]

I think I'm leaning towards the 210mp. I watched a couple videos and setup is just so easy. It would be nice to have stick capability for some of the thicker materials and might for everything else. Just need to give the estimate I got to my wife and let her decide since this would really be my Christmas gift.

For accessories i had looked at:
Gloves
Jacket
Auto dim helmet with grind option
Pliers
Gas tank.

I know I'll need some more consumables, but figured I'd start with what is included and go from there. If I buy local and they let me practice on their scrap, or let me take some scrap home to practice too I'll just end up back there for supplies, which is I'm sure their aim.
But, is there anything else I would need/want right away? Anything I'm missing? The helmet is the next most expensing thing (besides the tank) anything special to know about helmets?

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

I’ve always had good luck with Hobart welders and the ones from Harbor Freight aren’t bad either I’ve used both.


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[ssdave]

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[nadogail]

IMHO, an automatic helmet, used consistently, will make you a better welder. Just as having a computer will enable you to get higher grades in school.

 

[sberry]

I am sure there are better and not sure what a 30$ one is but 50 is pretty good.

 

[justanengineer]

You might save a few bucks and skip the jacket if your shop is warm, just wear an old long sleeve shirt when doing lots of welding. Be careful to buy TIG/lightweight gloves, thicker/stiffer gloves can be awkward to use. Don’t get screwed on cylinder rentals or purchases. Decent shops use a deposit system similar to beer kegs, ~$50 refundable deposit once + gas, then you just pay for gas at each swap/refill. 80cf cylinder’s will prob last you quite awhile, are easy to carry/lift by yourself, and easily fit in a trunk, should be <$100 w/deposit then ~$30 for swaps. Skip larger cylinders. Hobart makes decent autodark hoods, my wife’s was ~$100. If you’re going to MIG or stick, I would recommend wearing a welding cap under your hood bc both processes put off a ton of big hot sparklers that will eventually find their way into your hair and down your back. Don’t wear synthetic hats or gloves while doing hot work, they become like hot glue melted onto your skin. Don’t forget to get a regulator, preferably with a flow meter.

I hate to admit it as a diehard “buy American” flag waver, but the cheapie imports have become usable and big blue & red’s hobby machines have become disposable, so I’m torn on who to recommend anymore. On the lower end nothing is repairable anymore bc of the digital electronics and inverters, use it until it pukes in a few years then buy again. Complexity has been the kryptonite on the hobbyist multi-process machines and dual-voltage units bc there’s more to fail, I’d avoid both. Personally I’d find an older Syncrowave or used Square Wave and be done permanently. TIG for 99% of your projects, stick built in for the last 1%. TIG can be run really slow or fast so it’s easy to make near perfect welds without regular practice, puts little heat in to warp the base, and is super clean vs hot, messy, always fast, awkward MIG.


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[Deadsquiggles]

As far as helmets go, I grabbed an Instapark ADF GX990T and it’s been great. 1/25000th of a second reaction time for the auto darkening, battery life has been great so far. I think it was $80 on Amazon with great reviews. And for gloves, I have some short/midlength Hobart Mig gloves that Northern Tool carries for when I’m doing a lot of welding, but most of the time, I sometimes use Hobart welding sleeves and almost always Miller Metal Worker gloves.

 

[Aaron_W]

As I mentioned in my earlier post I was where you are, but about 2 years ago. I started on planning around a $500-700 budget for a MIG welder. After taking a welding class to get a better feel for what I want / need I ended up with a $3000 multi-process. So much for the budget

There are a few more multi-process machines available now than a few years ago. When I was looking only Miller and ESAB (maybe one of the cheaper imports) had an AC / DC MP machine capable of TIG welding aluminum, most were DC only.

In the end I was debating between two MIG welders, the Hobart 210 (cheapest option), or the Miller 211, and two MP machines the Miller 215 and Lincoln 210MP. I ended up buying the Miller 220 AC / DC.

It is very easy to play the for a few hundred dollars more game with welders. Looking at the 215 ad 210, by the time you add the TIG hardware you are in the $2000-2200 range, and from there "only" $700 away from being able to TIG weld aluminum... I figured this is a long term purchase so I sucked it up and sprung for the more expensive option.

I really like the Miller 220, but I think there is some merit to buying a good MIG welder and a stand alone TIG / Stick machine (most TIG machines can run stick). Space is at a premium in my shop, so a MP machine was a good choice for me.
The TIG in the Miller 220 is good, but buying a stand alone TIG machine gives you a lot more options. With a MP machine you just have to accept what the designer thought the average TIG user would want.

Miller and Lincoln both occasionally offer some significant rebates, some of which can be used retroactively, so keep an eye out for them. When I was looking at the Miller 211, there was a rebate available which dropped the price to around $1100, making it a lot closer in price to the Hobart 210.

 

[soloz2]

I've seen some rebates, but nothing available now. I did ask Lincoln electric and they said nothing was planned. The sales rep told me all the rebates went away at the start of COVID as they have been experiencing supply issues. Makes sense, but ***** for me.[emoji2955]

 

[SethB]

I would wait for the end of year, that's when I got my Lincoln 210MP with the rebate; Miller had deals going too. Or jump on the 180 at Walmart, that's a smoking deal. If I didn't have my 210 I would buy that 180, would do everything my 210 is doing for me without the fancy LCD/Autoset.

 

[sberry]

There is some merit for the Walmart deal and it would be different if it didnt work so well. They been making that machine for a LOOOOONG time.

 

[GaryM909]

I bought a Miller Multimatic 220 for my garage. It cost me a little more than what I wanted to spend but I wanted the ability to tig weld aluminum. It should be the last machine I plan on buying.

 

[dalepres]

Whoops - posted in the wrong thread. Deleting it here and reposting my Milwaukee question in the Milwaukee thread.

 

[Aaron_W]

I bought a Miller Multimatic 220 for my garage. It cost me a little more than what I wanted to spend but I wanted the ability to tig weld aluminum. It should be the last machine I plan on buying.

That was my thought as well. I plan to live a long time so maybe not the last welder I buy but by the time I'm looking for a new machine in 15 or 20 years I will really, really know what I do and don't need. I'm going to have to become a much better TIG welder before this machine is my limiting factor.

 

[48548]

I would wait for the end of year, that's when I got my Lincoln 210MP with the rebate; Miller had deals going too. Or jump on the 180 at Walmart, that's a smoking deal. If I didn't have my 210 I would buy that 180, would do everything my 210 is doing for me without the fancy LCD/Autoset.

Love my mp210

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[48548]

Love my mp210

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Also if I needed tig, would get the tig version for aluminum used them in class.... I don't weld aluminum enough to justify that. But I liked the lincoln little tig machine and matches the mp210 foot print.

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[GaryM909]

That was my thought as well. I plan to live a long time so maybe not the last welder I buy but by the time I'm looking for a new machine in 15 or 20 years I will really, really know what I do and don't need. I'm going to have to become a much better TIG welder before this machine is my limiting factor.

I turned 63 this year so The Miller 220 will be my last machine as long as it lasts longer than I do.