Recommendation for 1/2 inch Corded Drill

[roofdweller49]

Yeah anything bigger than 1/4" - SDS time

 

[bcradio]

To be honest, from my experience, hammer drills don't do anything well. The RPM's are too high for them to have enough torque to drill through anything remotely close to tough, and other than concrete block, don't hit hard enough to drill masonry. If I was limiting myself to Menards, I would go with one of the D handle mud mixer type drills, preferably the Bosch but if $190 is out of the budget, the Masterforce for $80 is better than a hammer drill.

They do great for brick and block. Most electro pneumatic drills will chip those too much to get a clean hole. Only my little tiny m12 sds drill is light enough to not chip those too much

 

[sparky 1971]

They do great for brick and block. Most electro pneumatic drills will chip those too much to get a clean hole. Only my little tiny m12 sds drill is light enough to not chip those too much

A hammer drill doesn't work worth a pinch of **** on most brick. I've used enough to know, including a 3/8 Milwaukee, 1/2 Milwaukee, 9/16 Makita, and various others that were supplied by employers. The last time I used a hammer drill on brick I got so pissed off that even though it was a company drill, I threw it away and bought my first SDS. I will admit that some brick can be drilled, but that brick is soft enough that a regular drill with a masonry bit will do the job.

Anyway, the drill that is needed in this thread is for drilling metal up to 1/4" thick and a hammer drill does a worse job with that than it does brick. I just threw in an extra reason to not buy a hammer drill.

 

[bcradio]

A hammer drill doesn't work worth a pinch of **** on most brick. I've used enough to know, including a 3/8 Milwaukee, 1/2 Milwaukee, 9/16 Makita, and various others that were supplied by employers. The last time I used a hammer drill on brick I got so pissed off that even though it was a company drill, I threw it away and bought my first SDS. I will admit that some brick can be drilled, but that brick is soft enough that a regular drill with a masonry bit will do the job.

Anyway, the drill that is needed in this thread is for drilling metal up to 1/4" thick and a hammer drill does a worse job with that than it does brick. I just threw in an extra reason to not buy a hammer drill.

A hammer drill works great on brick and block. Been there done that so many times I can't count.

I will say that my 12v sds is faster though, so I usually use that now instead.

 

[sparky 1971]

A hammer drill works great on brick and block. Been there done that so many times I can't count.

I will say that my 12v sds is faster though, so I usually use that now instead.

If you go back to post 40, I already said hammer drills are ok on concrete block. I stand by my statement that they are useless on most brick. Maybe you've only encountered the soft brick, of which I've been able to drill into with a masonry bit and a regular (non hammer) drill. The merit's of a hammer drill in brick and block don't matter in this thread anyway. The OP is wanting something to drill up to 1/4 steel, bought a dud of a hammer drill, returned it, and is considering another hammer drill. The inability to drill most brick is secondary to the fact that the fact that they are even more useless for heavy metal but is another reason to not buy another.

 

[bookman51]

Thanks. I need one slow enough but also big enough to make a 5/8 or so hole in 1/4 metal. I do not do it often, but when I need it I need it.

 

[bcradio]

If you go back to post 40, I already said hammer drills are ok on concrete block. I stand by my statement that they are useless on most brick. Maybe you've only encountered the soft brick, of which I've been able to drill into with a masonry bit and a regular (non hammer) drill. The merit's of a hammer drill in brick and block don't matter in this thread anyway. The OP is wanting something to drill up to 1/4 steel, bought a dud of a hammer drill, returned it, and is considering another hammer drill. The inability to drill most brick is secondary to the fact that the fact that they are even more useless for heavy metal but is another reason to not buy another.

I disagree with you and stand by my statement as well that they do great in brick. Not soft brick, but all brick. Maybe you had lousy hammer drills, I don't know. All I know is mine works great, just a tad slower than my m12 sds.

 

[The Cobbler]

I'm OK with a hammer drill in concrete, brick, block in anything up to 1/4" for sure, and 3/8 is OK. but SDS is better for sure , especially on anything larger

 

[sparky 1971]

I disagree with you and stand by my statement as well that they do great in brick. Not soft brick, but all brick. Maybe you had lousy hammer drills, I don't know. All I know is mine works great, just a tad slower than my m12 sds.

It really doesn't matter what either one of us think about a hammerdrills ability to drill brick. The OP is concerned about drilling a 5/8 hole through 1/4" steel. A hammerdrill is going to be useless for that, the fact that they are almost useless in brick is secondary.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I have the Makita 1/2” corded and a Bosch Bull Dog for a hammer drill. Worth the extra $ in my opinion. .

 

[bcradio]

It really doesn't matter what either one of us think about a hammerdrills ability to drill brick. The OP is concerned about drilling a 5/8 hole through 1/4" steel. A hammerdrill is going to be useless for that, the fact that they are almost useless in brick is secondary.

True

Luckily they are great in brick though for those interested in drilling brick

 

[theoldwizard1]

Not a big Dewalt fan but if you want TORQUE, you have to have TRIPLE GEAR REDUCTION !

DW245



Looks like I said the same thing 6 years ago !

 

[KnurledNut]

@sparky 1971
I always appreciate your advice on GJ, but something is amiss here.
As I posted earlier in this thread, i’ve used and owned several hammerdrills over the years and one that I dont know the model number right off, but similar to the Milwaukee 5380. The hammer mode is selectable. And it has two speed ranges. So, in non-hammer mode and low-speed, its really no different than a regular drill. They are even manufacturer rated the same capacity for steel.
The high speed range gives an advantage for drilling smaller holes in metal.
As much time as i’ve spent behind a spade drill, there’s no way i’d recommend one for the OP’s needs.
Lots of knowledge on here and again, thanks for all you share.

 

[sparky 1971]

@sparky 1971
I always appreciate your advice on GJ, but something is amiss here.
As I posted earlier in this thread, i’ve used and owned several hammerdrills over the years and one that I dont know the model number right off, but similar to the Milwaukee 5380. The hammer mode is selectable. And it has two speed ranges. So, in non-hammer mode and low-speed, its really no different than a regular drill. They are even manufacturer rated the same capacity for steel.
The high speed range gives an advantage for drilling smaller holes in metal.
As much time as i’ve spent behind a spade drill, there’s no way i’d recommend one for the OP’s needs.
Lots of knowledge on here and again, thanks for all you share.

I haven't had a corded hammer drill for over 20 years. I do have a M18 that has the hammer function, but it's never been used to drill concrete or brick. Low gear on that is actually low gear

The drill that the OP bought is 0-3000 rpm with no low gear.

Bosch® 7-Amp Corded 1/2" Hammer Drill

The Bosch® 1/2-inch keyed chuck corded variable speed hammer drill has a dual-mode selector; it easily converts from rotation-only to hammer drill mode. It has an ergonomic handle with multiple gripping positions for increased comfort and control. It includes a hard case for easy and convenient...

www.menards.com

That's way too fast for anything of a decent size in steel. That drill gave up the ghost and he's considering the two speed, but in low, that drill is 0-1300 and I think that's still too fast for 1/4 thick steel.

Masterforce® 10-Amp Corded 1/2" Hammer Drill

This Masterforce® 1/2-inch corded hammer drill includes two speeds that are controlled by an easy-to-use box switch to accommodate a variety of concrete, wood, and metal projects. In addition, the soft-grip handle and lock-on button offer comfort during extended operation, so you can work longer...

www.menards.com

The last corded hammer drill I used was a MIlwaukee 1/2". It's the same drill that I tossed in a trash can and bought my first SDS when I kept burning up masonry bits trying to get a 5/16 hole in brick. It wouldn't run a 1-3/8 step bit into a panel tub. My Panasonic 15.6 drill would do that effortlessly. It was the same thing, but on a smaller scale with the 3/8 MIlwaukee hammer that my previous employer had, and that was a repeat of the same experience with a 5/8 Makita. There have been other hammer drills that I have used, but most of them were just clones of the Milwaukees. Every one of them was the same...not good at anything but better than nothing.

 

[Bert_]

I disagree with you and stand by my statement as well that they do great in brick. Not soft brick, but all brick. Maybe you had lousy hammer drills, I don't know. All I know is mine works great, just a tad slower than my m12 sds.

Hammer drills ****. More than a couple holes and you might as well use a roto hammer, even little holes

 

[M6erfan]

I guess I should toss my Bosch 18v Hammer drill that has drilled plenty of holes in brick, block, concrete over the years (albeit max 5/16") . . .

It even has two speed ranges and selectable hammer/non hammer function. Drills through metal too! Admittedly the lowest speed is still too fast IMO, for metal work without burning up bits if not careful.

 

[bookman51]

I haven't had a corded hammer drill for over 20 years. I do have a M18 that has the hammer function, but it's never been used to drill concrete or brick. Low gear on that is actually low gear

The drill that the OP bought is 0-3000 rpm with no low gear.

Bosch® 7-Amp Corded 1/2" Hammer Drill

The Bosch® 1/2-inch keyed chuck corded variable speed hammer drill has a dual-mode selector; it easily converts from rotation-only to hammer drill mode. It has an ergonomic handle with multiple gripping positions for increased comfort and control. It includes a hard case for easy and convenient...

www.menards.com

That's way too fast for anything of a decent size in steel. That drill gave up the ghost and he's considering the two speed, but in low, that drill is 0-1300 and I think that's still too fast for 1/4 thick steel.

Masterforce® 10-Amp Corded 1/2" Hammer Drill

This Masterforce® 1/2-inch corded hammer drill includes two speeds that are controlled by an easy-to-use box switch to accommodate a variety of concrete, wood, and metal projects. In addition, the soft-grip handle and lock-on button offer comfort during extended operation, so you can work longer...

www.menards.com

The last corded hammer drill I used was a MIlwaukee 1/2". It's the same drill that I tossed in a trash can and bought my first SDS when I kept burning up masonry bits trying to get a 5/16 hole in brick. It wouldn't run a 1-3/8 step bit into a panel tub. My Panasonic 15.6 drill would do that effortlessly. It was the same thing, but on a smaller scale with the 3/8 MIlwaukee hammer that my previous employer had, and that was a repeat of the same experience with a 5/8 Makita. There have been other hammer drills that I have used, but most of them were just clones of the Milwaukees. Every one of them was the same...not good at anything but better than nothing.

Workforce also makes a 5/8" spade handle drill mixer with a variable speed from 0-750. Would that serve my purposes better for drilling through 1/4 mild steel? It also sells for about $90. The Bosch I purchased was variable speed but the variable speed quit on me before I got the four holes drilled.

 

[sparky 1971]

Workforce also makes a 5/8" spade handle drill mixer with a variable speed from 0-750. Would that serve my purposes better for drilling through 1/4 mild steel? It also sells for about $90. The Bosch I purchased was variable speed but the variable speed quit on me before I got the four holes drilled.

It would probably be about the same as the Masterforce. Once you get away from the big brand names they are all about the same. Just stay away from hammer drills, and for what you are doing, keep the max rpm low.

 

[bpwoodworking]

I have a 1/2" Metabo, it has a hammer feature which I have not tried. Maybe I'll give it a shot for small holes. I normally just break out the Hilti SDS, but it's a bit much for really small stuff. The Hilti is like magic but its big for certain work.

 

[bookman51]

It would probably be about the same as the Masterforce. Once you get away from the big brand names they are all about the same. Just stay away from hammer drills, and for what you are doing, keep the max rpm low.

Oops, I meant to write "MasterForce." No need for hammer drill for drilling metal, but I suppose I might use the hammer function for some unforeseen use. Yes, I do need to keep the speed slow on drilling metal or else overheat and ruin an expensive bit. That is why I got the variable speed on the Bosch drill, but it played out quickly. Thanks for all the good information.

 

[sparky 1971]

Oops, I meant to write "MasterForce." No need for hammer drill for drilling metal, but I suppose I might use the hammer function for some unforeseen use. Yes, I do need to keep the speed slow on drilling metal or else overheat and ruin an expensive bit. That is why I got the variable speed on the Bosch drill, but it played out quickly. Thanks for all the good information.

I wouldn't have an issue using the Masterforce drill a few times a year. A hammer drill could potentially be useful if it's all you have for drilling concrete, but you would find it worthless if you were to try to drill that 5/8" hole through 1/4" thick steel. Get the regular drill, then, if the need arises there can be another Garage Journal argument about hammer drills VS rotary hammers.

EDIT: when I say Masterforce, I mean the D handle, not the hammer drill.

 

[mikedodge]

I have Makita I got used. Just used it recently when the phone company came to install fiber and showed up with a 2 foot long bit and cordless Miluake fuel drill that couldn't do it and didn't have a good spare battery. You'd think a job like that they'd bring a backup drill. I wanted to see the miluake I'm action but after a while just wanted to get it over with without waiting around for the batteries to charge or the guy to damage something in the process.

 

[bookman51]

I wouldn't have an issue using the Masterforce drill a few times a year. A hammer drill could potentially be useful if it's all you have for drilling concrete, but you would find it worthless if you were to try to drill that 5/8" hole through 1/4" thick steel. Get the regular drill, then, if the need arises there can be another Garage Journal argument about hammer drills VS rotary hammers.

EDIT: when I say Masterforce, I mean the D handle, not the hammer drill.

Thanks for the good information. I recall a several years ago I had to break up some concrete. I went to a local rental place and the appropriate tool to do so. It was a lot heavier than even a 1/2 drill. I suppose hammer drills have their purpose but not for my purpose of drilling a hole through metal. Thanks again.

 

[nbpt100]

I dont know what "the Best is". Best for the cost (i.e. value) or the absolute best regardless of cost? I shop with value in mind. I assume any well respected brand will be good enough. I have an older Skill and Ridgid chorded. By far the Ridgid is better. More range on the speed and more power. Hardly boggs down. A better chuck. A poor working chuck will drive you nuts. Look for a keyless chuck and take the highest amperage when doing a side by side comparison. Also look for one with a long and well made chord. My ridgid has a long chord and I love how often I do not have to stop and look for an extention chord when I frequenly use it. New or used you will do fine.

 

[duneslider]

I have a Milwaukee 1/2" hammer drill and its not worth its weight in sand. I don't know why I keep it, it just sits in a bin and I keep hoping something will come along that will justify the money I spent on it.

I have 2 ridgid mixing drills for thinset/cement but other than those two drills I haven't used a regular drill that has a cord in a lot of years. My Rotory Hammer Drill doesn't get used enough to justify buying a cordless version, but if it ever dies I won't replace it with a corded version.

With a previous employer we had some milwaukee magnums that seems great but that was ages ago. We used to use the corded drywall guns too and they are still way fast but for a slow guy like me I prefer my cordless drywall gun.

I have an older 3/8 craftsman that I should drop off at good will or something, never gonna use it again.

 

[BreeStephany]

I've got an ancient Black & Decker Utility U-20 1/2" 375rpm drill that will drill through almost anything.


I have drilled 3/4" holes through 1-1/4" plate with it before and it seemed to barely phase it. Its not variable speed, fixed gear case and either on or off, but does great for everything from drilling holes through plate steel to mixing mud.

Its my go-to drill when the task at hand is too much for my Milwaukee Magnum, Hole Hawg or Super Hawg.

With that said, it has no clutch... so if it grabs something that isn't secure or if the drill itself isn't secure, it will just spin until it winds up the cord and pulls it out of the wall.

They are a pretty common drill and you can often find them on online auction sites (ebay, etc.) for $30~$50. Just make sure they have a grounded cord installed!

 

[dclark2171]

Makita DP4002

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4048461767...FS/HH5pYcLfyM4CMnYh/v1xTs=|tkp:Bk9SR7bXp_rFYw

 

[the shifty jesus]

The only people more happy than me with my Milwaukee hammer drill, were the two I gave them to when I inherited another one from my father and another one from my grand father-in-law.