Recommended tools for a truck mechanic apprentice?

[RedneckWelder]

I know some 3/4 power tools are supplied. Not sure what all that entails. Like if I still need the 3/4 socket set or if that is only impact stuff.

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Hold off on getting anything 3/4 unless you come across an excellent deal then. You can find out what you need to buy at a later time and spend your money on tools you need more.

Eventually you will want your own 3/4 gun and sockets, plus a ratchet and breaker bar and extensions, but you can probably hold off for a little while.

 

[ssdave]

Basics are where it is at when you're starting out, regardless of the type of work. Nobody expects you to have everything, but they also don't want to loan you basic, commonly used tools. You want to own:

Excellent set of screwdrivers. #2 phillips is the most used tool on any job. #1 phillips is not far behind. Lots of flat slot screws also on trim and hose clamps, etc.

Larger flat screwdrivers to pry with when needed, in addition to pry bars.

Some kind of 1/4" hex bit driver with wide assortment of torx and hex bits for it. This gives you some good universal capability. Lots of lights and trim held on by torx or hex now, and lots of hex cap screws to remove. I'd buy a Williams or Snap-on ratcheting screwdriver. It will become one of your most loved tools. While you're at it, buy a 1/4" drive, hex bit driver socket to let you use your 1/4" ratchet/breaker bar with hex bits. Really, really handy sometimes and better than a 1/4" socket because the bits stay in it.

Good set of small chrome finish sockets, either top quality 1/4" drive or good quality 3/8" drive. As said before, the larger stuff is less used/easier to borrow/shop supplied. You'll soon know if a 1/2" drive set is needed. What they will expect you to have is a small set to take off brackets, accessories, electrical connections, etc. etc. etc. These are your workhorse tools for most common tasks. Buy as wide a range of lengths of extensions as you can afford. You'll need a lot sometimes.

Good set of wrenches in the 1" minus size, and 24mm minus size. Again, universally needed, these are your workhorse tools.

Wide range of high quality pliers. Absolute essentials; workhorse tools. Almost never complete any task without using a pair or two.

Wire brush, picks, putty knife/scraper, utility knife. Always cleaning stuff off BEFORE you work on it and have the crud fall in your eyes.

Mini maglite. Don't use the flashlight app on your phone.

Hammers: small ball peen, dead blows or soft face, 4 lb sledge, 2 pound ball peen. You'll soon see what others you need.

Breaker bars. One in 3/8, one in 1/4, and a top quality, long one in 1/2". The leverage will save you from slipping and hurting your hands. Even with air tools, there are things that need breaker bars.

Inspection mirrors.

Magnetic and 4 finger pickup tools. I have to use those a lot more than I will admit, and they really save you sometimes.

Good quality leather gloves to protect your hand when you carry heavy stuff and when you have to push and pry.

Nitrile gloves to protect against grease and oils. Shop should supply those.

 

[ssdave]

If you've got the basics I covered above, here is where I'd continue on with:

1/2" drive socket set, chrome, not impact, for the thinner walls and better access.

Torx sockets and big hex sockets. Buy the best you can get here, they still won't be good enough.

Flare nut wrenches. Again, buy the best. Lots of air, fuel and hydraulic fittings on trucks. If you end up doing a lot of hose work, angle wrenches make getting fittings apart a lot easier. You may have a need for weatherhead sockets for removing and replacing fittings, depends on your work.

Large pipe wrench, large crescent wrenches.

Chain wrench

Channel lock type pump pliers in multiple sizes.

A few pair of vise grips in various configurations.

Fuel pressure gauge, vacuum gauge.

As you get into electrical, the following will be needed:

Excellent quality multimeter.

Led 12 volt test light.

Probes, crimpers, wire strippers, heat gun for shrinking wraps.

Now, once you have this stuff, I'd start buying the big tools; you will know what you need after working awhile. The big stuff is the least used and the most expensive, so leave it for last.

 

[pacemade]

First off congratulations, diesel mechanics make good money. Second, I wouldn't go out and buy anything expensive yet. To many times I see guys go in debt buy a box and brand new tool sets and not have what they need or lose the job.
There is a good rule to follow. Borrow it once that's okay, borrow it twice go buy your own. Give it a week and see what you need. I worked at a truck stop and this mechanic had a whole bucket of cheap wrenches, whenever he didn't have one that fit into the place he needed to get at he cut and welded his own angles into the wrench.

 

[ihateminimumwage]

Borrow twice, buy once. I went from auto to trucks, and now to generators.

Get ready to spend a lot of time with a grease gun, getting to know air brakes and chasing rotted wiring.

Standards like a good flashlight (Streamlight Stylus Pro), cordless drill with bits, 1/2" drive torque wrench, full set of sockets (including some 3/8" SAE 12 points), Fluke meter, and either a 3/4" drive ratchet or a long 1/2" drive ratchet (I have a Gearwrench flex) with a 3/4" adapter. As said by others; sledgehammer and a BIG prybar.

I know it's love it or hate it, but I loved my OTC 5081 air drum brake spring tool.

Also OTC 4561 BIG filter pliers and a CAT 185-3630 Filter Strap Wrench

Bearing/Seal driver set (I bought a cheap Neiko set almost 3 years ago and still going strong)

Cripe is great for misc tools like scrapers, torx sockets, 3/4 drive sockets, big wrenches, etc. (Request actual shipping cost and they'll adjust the shipping rates)
http://www.cripedistributing.com/
http://stores.ebay.com/Cripe-Distributing

I make a point not to ***** my own thread, but some good crossover numbers in the Matco section for Diesel specialty tools.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=249851

 

[otis66]

I was a diesel mechanic for 23 years. The only tools I was required to have was sockets and wrenches for from 3/8 to 1 1/4 " metric from 10mm to 24 m, with various pliers screw drivers. The job supplied all power tools special tools and anything over 1 1/4 " and 24mm. Of course you will eventually buy all of these tools but just starting out you just need the basics. I still have the Craftsman 404 pc tool set I started out with in 1988. I got a 404 pc Craftsman diesel tool set for a graduation present from my parents when I finish my trade school for diesel/truck tech. The Craftsman Diesel tool set had everything I needed o get started.

 

[AdamD87]

Lots of great suggestions from this group. I knew this forum was the place to go thanks guys!
Now one last question. My current box is a 26" craftsman that don't hold the tools I own as it is. I think I am down to two contenders. Either a Harbor Frieght 44 or 56 or a Masterforce 46 or 56 (size will depend on funds) both are cheap and from what I have seen the best in that price range any opinions?

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[RedneckWelder]

Hf 56

 

[ihateminimumwage]

I worked out of a VERY crowded Craftsman 26" and an overloaded HF 4 drawer cart at the time. Everyone else had larger boxes (still overflowing) and HF 5 drawer carts for the quick go-to daily use tools. It was a good sized 14 bay shop, so you were constantly rolling to the opposite end of the shop to whichever bay was open.

If you go HF, go for the 56". I personally the "deep drawers" at the bottom of the 44" are too shallow. I resold mine and found a 41" Waterloo on craigslist for $250, IIRC

 

[Jazz1]

Your basic tools suffice as most have already recommended. Don't go large as you will come across deal!
I bought offshore JET 3/4" drive mainly for swapping out broken spring bodies on the side of the road 30 years ago. Excellent quality. Also a "crazy carpet" makes a great roadside creeper in the winter..

 

[ssdave]

I personally picked the Masterforce when I had to make that decision recently. However, the HF has a lot going for it also. I think the Masterforce might be more durable/higher quality. However, the HF might have drawers that suit you better, and it is well built, just not as well designed.

I'd look at the drawer configurations, and go with the one that looks like it will work best for you. I think that will be more important than the minor quality differences between them.

 

[AdamD87]

So many decisions. Thanks for all the input guys!

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[MJD1]

Air line disconnect fork tools, slack adjuster wrenches and release fork. Hose pinch off clamps and hose picks. Filter pliers and a good pipe pliers. Most importantly a good side cutters for cutting the endless tyraps you will come across.

 

[kiatech]

Diesel **** of 1 year here. I work on 2012-2016 Pete's. My Milwaukee cordless 3/8 drive impact is easily my most used tool. Get a long fancy ratchet 1/2 drive and you shouldn't need to get on a creeper to change oil or filters.

Fwiw I work on lease trucks with 350k or less miles.

 

[Rig Rocket]

snap on 18" and 30" die setter bars are a must! if you work in the rust belt a air hammer is a must too.

 

[Chris_]

I bought a Nitrocat 1250 after my IR 244 gave up, liked it so well I bought the little mini 1/2" gun. That little gun is the cats *** for airbags on trailers. All my 3/8" air tools are Snapon. Buy stock in Knipex, I'm in love with their pliers, even more so than some of my SnapOn. The knipex pliers wrench is awesome for fittings and airlines that try to round off with standard wrenches. I'm a fan of most all snap on tools, but some will claim Matco and others. Snap on 3050B air hammer is the best out now. You can never have too many prybars, hammers, or pliers. A right angle die grinder and a couple straight ones loaded with different attachments. Fluke, test light, Power Probe and Load Pro. And a big *** toolbox, you'll fill it up quickly.

 

[stevenhs]

The tools you use everyday. Do not use cheap tools

 

[shoggoth80]

Get yourself the Snap On air brake tool. It's basically a small prybar with a forked end. Handles the springs on air brakes like they're nothing.

At least a 4ft pry bar. I use one all the time for tires. If the cables or counterbalance spring breaks on a trailer door, this is also how you start the process of lifting the ******* (if your trailers have roll up doors).

If you are working with air brakes (I am assuming you are based in what I have read) get a good hose cutter. Also, with trailers I work on 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16", and 15/16" are used a LOT. 3/8 and 1/2 on 7 way sockets, glad hands to header board. 5/8" and 11/16" are for air fittings/compression fittings. 15/16" are for landing gear bolts, and for air cans. Good crescent wrenches will get you by for some stuff as well. 9/16" fasteners on S cam bushings where I work.

3/4" drive stuff in impact vs. chrome is a good enough idea. There's more room to work on/with the bigger stuff. 1/2" and 3/4" air guns. Big *** torque wrench. We torque our lugs to 500ft lbs. Other components go up as high as 750ft lbs. I work on trailers mostly. Most stuff gets hit with an impact.

Seriously all drive sizes from 1/4" to 3/4". I pretty much never use 1/4" above 1/2" on fasteners. Even then, that's only on the moderately cramped door counterbalance. 2 to 4 foot cheater bar is a good idea. There are times I need to use that to crack an axle nut.

I don't know how much metric you'll see, but where I work, it's a lot of SAE stuff on trailers. The heavy trucks have a fair amount of metric, but are a mix. The light trucks are almost all metric.

 

[NFH2740]

Most heavy truck hardware is SAE.

Hang on to the metric SK wrenches as a lot of farm equipment is being assembled in Europe for US and Canadian markets. You may find yourself working at an ag dealership someday.