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Reducing Compressor Noise

HyperPete

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Not far from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
I was going to put my compressor in an outdoor enclosure, but due to homeowner association regulations, I have had to put it inside my garage. 😢
It's tucked into a corner. To reduce noise, should I completely enclose it, or can I install some kind of "baffles" around the top to absorb some of the noise? My concern is that in the summer, it gets extremely hot in the garage (120+!) and I don't want the compressor to cook. (60 gal 230V 2 stage)

Thanks in advance!
 
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JSHOUSE1

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Lawrenceburg, TN
I noticed the biggest difference from simply routing the intake out of the work area. In a couple shops I've put it in attic, and i've ran it out under the soffit and installed filter there, both seem to work well.
 

rattle_snake

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Chandler, AZ
120 isn't that hot for a compressor. That's outside temp here on a hot day.

Other than baffles/enclosure, gains can also be made on the intake noise, with a better air filter. Also, using rubber feet to isolate the vibration from coupling into the rest of the garage can help.
 

MFolks

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Springfield Mo.
Make an enclosure out of wood, with access to the needed areas,the sound foam will greatly reduce the noise levels.
 
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HyperPete

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Not far from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
Thank you all for the replies. I did purchase the pads for the feet and have one "spare." Perhaps I will put that under the flex pipe where it attaches to the wall, too. I will look into quieter intakes, as well, and check out the links posted for noise reduction.

Thank you!
 

Slednut

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Washington state
I built a box around my compressor and lined it with double sound board. When it's running you can have a conversation with someone while standing in front of it.

On a normal day it doesn't run enough to get hot. When I know I'm going to do something that will make it run a lot I open the doors and turn on the fan.

My old compressor (oil-less) was outside in a box but it was cheap and I really didn't care if it quit.
 

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dagofast

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The QC in AZ
I'll also toss in another .02c for intake noise suppression having the best bang for the buck.

I swapped on some better intake filters on mine and it did improve it. But I wanted more. Poking around here on GJ led to me a post that advised using 8-12" long pieces of cheap rubber hose or tubing extensions off of the air filter intakes. Holy COW! What a difference that made! And for literally pennies. It made a big enough difference that I dropped the idea of making an enclosure. It is good enough as is now.
 

Matt M PA

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I too placed a couple mufflers on the intake side of mine and it made a huge difference. I can post a pic if wanted. I think one was made by Solberg, the other Ingersoll-Rand.
 

K'ledgeBldr

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Johns Creek, GA
I noticed the biggest difference from simply routing the intake out of the work area. In a couple shops I've put it in attic, and i've ran it out under the soffit and installed filter there, both seem to work well.


This^^^
Route intake outside, install Solberg filter/silencer. An enclosure will help with the "mechanical" noise. But the overwhelming percentage of db's comes from the intake.
 

gunguy

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Aug 2, 2007
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730
Location
Currituck Co. NC
I was going to put my compressor in an outdoor enclosure, but due to homeowner association regulations, I have had to put it inside my garage. 😢
It's tucked into a corner. To reduce noise, should I completely enclose it, or can I install some kind of "baffles" around the top to absorb some of the noise? My concern is that in the summer, it gets extremely hot in the garage (120+!) and I don't want the compressor to cook. (60 gal 230V 2 stage)

Thanks in advance!

What's the HOA regulation? Noise? How many db? If it's noise, I'd shoot for that target level inside. If you meet it, then move the compressor outside. It'll run cooler, be more quiet in the shop and also free up some floor space.

Jim
 

Robbie B

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Sunny side of hell
You can build the enclosure like we did my friends isolation booth. Build a wooden cabinet, separate all the pieces with rubber barrier material, line it with dynomat, just make sure you have the proper ventilation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

garageInfo

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May 23, 2019
Messages
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Location
Kansas
I'll also toss in another .02c for intake noise suppression having the best bang for the buck.

I swapped on some better intake filters on mine and it did improve it. But I wanted more. Poking around here on GJ led to me a post that advised using 8-12" long pieces of cheap rubber hose or tubing extensions off of the air filter intakes. Holy COW! What a difference that made! And for literally pennies. It made a big enough difference that I dropped the idea of making an enclosure. It is good enough as is now.

Any chance you could post a picture of your setup? Sounds simple and cheap. Thanks.
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
Messages
14,065
I second the small car muffler idea.

I have seen PICs of a small car intake air filter set up.
It turns out cars have intake noise issues also.
 
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HyperPete

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Not far from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
What's the HOA regulation? Noise? How many db? If it's noise, I'd shoot for that target level inside. If you meet it, then move the compressor outside. It'll run cooler, be more quiet in the shop and also free up some floor space.

Jim
Unfortunately, it has to do with the number of outbuildings and percentage of square footage of outbuildings compared to the house. Our 2-car attached garage is considered an outbuilding because it does not have a finished loft or second story. I recently got a 10 X 20 shed, and between the garage and the shed, we are "maxed out." Some of the rules here are incredibly obtuse!

Concerning the basement, my girlfriend's mother lives there, and it's packed full of her stuff. I'll check out the muffler idea. I have some supertrapps from one of my bikes to test the idea, and then if it helps, I'll get it a small automotive muffler, and/or route it to the garage "attic". Thank you all for the great ideas!
 
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isb cornbinder

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Pacific South West, BC, Canada
I have an Ingersoll two stage. I think most of the noise is from the intake. I bought a d tried a Ford Crown Victoria intake air filter and housing. These are designed to silence the intake. I noticed a significant sound reduction. There are likely better filter/silencers in the recycling yards. $20 is a usual cost.
I am using a DONALDSON filter on the Ingersoll and the CV filter is on a Cummins 4bta.
 

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Bigbandguy

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North Carolina
Unfortunately, it has to do with the number of outbuildings and percentage of square footage of outbuildings compared to the house. Our 2-car attached garage is considered an outbuilding because it does not have a finished loft or second story. I recently got a 10 X 20 shed, and between the garage and the shed, we are "maxed out." Some of the rules here are incredibly obtuse!

HOA's are made to be outsmarted. I assume they don't object to an Air conditioner. Simply build a hollow base about a foot tall and place the shell of the tallest AC outdoor unit you can find on top of it. Place the compressor inside it with suitable sound baffles.
Never let an HOA win. It is against the rules of civilization.

Failing that, put the unit in the shed and run an air line to the garage.
 
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HyperPete

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Not far from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
Add a loft to the garage, after all this is G J.
That will show the HOA you have an angle.:lol_hitti

HOA's are made to be outsmarted. I assume they don't object to an Air conditioner. Simply build a hollow base about a foot tall and place the shell of the tallest AC outdoor unit you can find on top of it. Place the compressor inside it with suitable sound baffles.
Never let an HOA win. It is against the rules of civilization.

Failing that, put the unit in the shed and run an air line to the garage.

I spent about a year fighting the "president" of the HOA over various other issues. The result was added stress and rules that prevent me from attending meetings. (A-holes!) (I'm not officially a "member" because my name is not on the deed, and I have not paid a FIVE THOUSAND DOLLAR "initiation fee." F___ THAT!!) I'm sure I could get around this, but it's not worth my time or the stress. I could probably just build a shed behind the house despite their rules and nobody would ever even know about it, but I'll be a good little automaton and play by their rules.
I think that the changes to the intake will work well. I'm going to play with that in the next few days with what I have on hand, and then look indo a replacement setup.
 
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HyperPete

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Not far from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
So, here is what I am thinking. I'd appreciate your input.

1) 1.25" ID vinyl tubing clamped to the intake port and run through the drywall ceiling into the attic.
jPdiiKrIRzmj8cYJmwPn6w


2) Remove (8) mounting bolts, add isolation bushings, replace bolts with longer bolts as needed.
-uDwIajoRDGLgEaBMpjPMg


3) Reconnect stock intake (in attic) - replace if further noise reduction is needed
WlUBLhXNTPeURPemIw37iw


4) Photo for reference - Compressor is mounted on noise insulation squares https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
LC00m08MSOOFgJQPLwLsMA
 
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metalmagpie

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Nov 1, 2011
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Seattle
By far the largest decrease in sound comes from buying a quieter compressor in the first place. Next comes from fitting an intake silencer. Enclosures are tricky because they can interfere with air flow, needed for cooling.
 
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HyperPete

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Not far from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
By far the largest decrease in sound comes from buying a quieter compressor in the first place. Next comes from fitting an intake silencer. Enclosures are tricky because they can interfere with air flow, needed for cooling.

Well, since I *just* bought this compressor, I will not be purchasing a quieter one. According to THIS: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6873374&postcount=139
it generates 86 db. I think that with some inexpensive mods as I listed above, it will be fine for my purposes. I have considered also building a "sleeve" that goes around area with the compressor assembly and motor and lining that with sound absorbing material. I thought about egg crates, but I am certain there is better material, possibly something designed for home theater sound deadening. This "sleeve" would be open both top and bottom to permit generous air flow.

My concern with the mods I have listed above are that I don't want to damage the copper line that connects the compressor to the tank or change the angle of the belt by raising the motor. I believe that if I use the rubber isolating grommets shown in the video on the site that Lynden posted, the change should be minimal.
 

Citation

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Indy
What type of compressor do you have? Can you change the air intake?

The intake is a big source of noise with most compressors. I got an 8db drop in noise levels with my belt drive 120V compressor by changing the intake filter. I described my changes a bit here
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8152958&postcount=6

If you search YouTube for compressor muffler there are others doing similar mods.

If this isn't quiet enough then go there extra step to add Dan enclosure. In my case it made things will into tolerable.

I have no idea what your needs are but you could also consider a second compressor. One of the "silent" compressors like the California Air Tools 5510 can do a lot of light work and is no louder than an idling car. Use your big compressor when really needed and the CAT the rest of the time. Might be cheaper than doing a fancy enclosure.

Still, start with the air intake.

Edit: I replied before seeing much of the second page discussion.
 
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86turbodsl

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Michigan
I spent about a year fighting the "president" of the HOA over various other issues. The result was added stress and rules that prevent me from attending meetings. (A-holes!) (I'm not officially a "member" because my name is not on the deed, and I have not paid a FIVE THOUSAND DOLLAR "initiation fee." F___ THAT!!) I'm sure I could get around this, but it's not worth my time or the stress. I could probably just build a shed behind the house despite their rules and nobody would ever even know about it, but I'll be a good little automaton and play by their rules.
I think that the changes to the intake will work well. I'm going to play with that in the next few days with what I have on hand, and then look indo a replacement setup.

If you're not in the HOA, and you didn't pay dues, who cares what they think? Do they actually have a covenant over your deed or some other power over you? This kind of **** is exactly why i live out in AG country and all HOA's can pound sand.
 
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HyperPete

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Messages
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Location
Not far from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
What type of compressor do you have? Can you change the air intake?

The intake is a big source of noise with most compressors. I got an 8db drop in noise levels with my belt drive 120V compressor by changing the intake filter. I described my changes a bit here
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8152958&postcount=6

If you search YouTube for compressor muffler there are others doing similar mods.

If this isn't quiet enough then go there extra step to add Dan enclosure. In my case it made things will into tolerable.

I have no idea what your needs are but you could also consider a second compressor. One of the "silent" compressors like the California Air Tools 5510 can do a lot of light work and is no louder than an idling car. Use your big compressor when really needed and the CAT the rest of the time. Might be cheaper than doing a fancy enclosure.

Still, start with the air intake.

Edit: I replied before seeing much of the second page discussion.

Your air intake looks exactly like what came on the compressor. Honestly, this compressor is not unbearably loud. I got rid of the cheap Kobalt regulator which leaked, so now it should not kick on every 15 minutes like it did before. I just like to tweak things, so I will see what I can do to quiet it down further.

Thank you for your reply!
 
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HyperPete

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Not far from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
If you're not in the HOA, and you didn't pay dues, who cares what they think? Do they actually have a covenant over your deed or some other power over you? This kind of **** is exactly why i live out in AG country and all HOA's can pound sand.

I completely agree! I lived in a small community of 35 homes. No HOA. Any issues were taken directly to the Township.

However, it was the logical choice to move in with my girlfriend (of 8 years) rather than her to move in with me. My commute to work was the same distance, from either location. Hers was an extra 1.25 hours from my home. And it would have meant relocating her mom, too. Her location is also close to her kids and siblings. When one is in a relationship, there are certain sacrifices we make out of love. If we marry, I become a "member", but I have been down THAT road twice, so I have been extremely reticent to "jump" again. Perhaps at the 10-year mark I will propose.

If someone violates the HOA "rules" then the homeowner is responsible. If fines are levied, the homeowner is required to pay them. (A "member" signs their life away when they move in here.) If they do not pay the fines, it goes to small claims court and collections.

While I despise the HOA, there are certain benefits. The community is on a lake. I just bought a small powerboat to take advantage of this. There are tennis courts, (private) community parks, a pool, and a community center. It is a nice (gated) community. So, I made the choice to live with it.
 

dagofast

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Any chance you could post a picture of your setup? Sounds simple and cheap. Thanks.

Click one of the links in post 27. You'll see a Solberg filter/muffler. That's what I use. See that little dime sized opening in the cap? If you twist the cover off you'll find a little rubber inlet tube that runs about ½ to ⅔ of the way across the inside. All I did was yoink that short tube out, scrounged in my tubing collection and found a piece that is about the same outside diameter. I may have opened the hole a bit, but danged if I can remember. Anyway, push the piece of tubing through the hole about the same distance as the original tube was. If it fits loose, dab on a little silicone or adhesive. Or add a few wraps of electrical tape, whatever it takes so the new tube doesn't vibrate out. Now cut the tubing so you have at least 6" hanging off the filter housing. Longer is even better as long as there is no danger of the dangling tube getting sucked in to any moving parts. Turn the compressor on and enjoy the huge reduction in noise.
 

larry4406

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Northern Virginia
Following along.

If you add rubber vibration isolators to the compressor mount, I think you need a more flexible air line connection to tank compared to the hard copper line.

Not sure the rubber vibration isolators for the motor will help much given the belt. I can’t imagine a down side of these as a belt and suspenders approach though.
 

GreyOwl

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Oct 23, 2007
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North Las Vegas
So, here is what I am thinking. I'd appreciate your input.

1) 1.25" ID vinyl tubing clamped to the intake port and run through the drywall ceiling into the attic.
jPdiiKrIRzmj8cYJmwPn6w


2) Remove (8) mounting bolts, add isolation bushings, replace bolts with longer bolts as needed.
-uDwIajoRDGLgEaBMpjPMg


3) Reconnect stock intake (in attic) - replace if further noise reduction is needed
WlUBLhXNTPeURPemIw37iw


4) Photo for reference - Compressor is mounted on noise insulation squares https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
LC00m08MSOOFgJQPLwLsMA

Any rubber pads need to be on both sides of the mount to totally isolate the vibration/sound transmission, not just between the parts. The bolt/nut will transmit the noise also. Think of the part sandwiched in rubber(like shock absorber mounts or engine mounts). For example, pic #4 there should be rubber between the nut/washer combo and the top of the tank foot as well as under the foot.
 
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Citation

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Jan 20, 2016
Messages
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Indy
So, here is what I am thinking. I'd appreciate your input.

1) 1.25" ID vinyl tubing clamped to the intake port and run through the drywall ceiling into the attic.
jPdiiKrIRzmj8cYJmwPn6w


2) Remove (8) mounting bolts, add isolation bushings, replace bolts with longer bolts as needed.
-uDwIajoRDGLgEaBMpjPMg


3) Reconnect stock intake (in attic) - replace if further noise reduction is needed
WlUBLhXNTPeURPemIw37iw


4) Photo for reference - Compressor is mounted on noise insulation squares https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4/?tag=atomicindus08-20
LC00m08MSOOFgJQPLwLsMA

These pictures didn't load when I posted yesterday.

With that setup you can get an idea how much simple intake mods will help by plugging the intake with your hand. That will be about as good as any intake mod could hope to be.

The rubber hose on the inlet of the filter housing is very cheap and does help quite a bit. Some people have done things like send that hose into a car muffler or a box with sound absorbing material that acts like a muffler. I'm not sure how much that helps but it can't hurt. In my car just the rubber hose did a lot. I'm not a huge fan of pulling air in from the attic because it will be very hot in the summer. It's better to draw in cooler air.

After that you are dealing with the mechanical noise and the tank acting like a bell. I've heard of people putting sound deadening material on the tank. The rubber pump mounts would help but I would worry about how that could affect the belt alignment and that intake tube would have to be redone with a loop for stress relief.
 
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HyperPete

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Messages
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Not far from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
If you add rubber vibration isolators to the compressor mount, I think you need a more flexible air line connection to tank compared to the hard copper line.

Not sure the rubber vibration isolators for the motor will help much given the belt. I can’t imagine a down side of these as a belt and suspenders approach though.
Any rubber pads need to be on both sides of the mount to totally isolate the vibration/sound transmission, not just between the parts. The bolt/nut will transmit the noise also. Think of the part sandwiched in rubber(like shock absorber mounts or engine mounts). For example, pic #4 there should be rubber between the nut/washer combo and the top of the tank foot as well as under the foot.

Good points. I think I will hold off on the isolation mounts for the compressor and motor until I try some of the other mods. Placincg the rubber mounts on both sides of the feet had not occurred to me. That is easily resolved.


I hope you make the first decade. That compressor may become the deal breaker if you make it the most important thing..
FAR from the most important thing! But, since this is Garage Journal, not "FamilyLiving" or some such ****, I'm talking about garage stuff! :lol:


These pictures didn't load when I posted yesterday.
I had to figure out how to get images on Amazon Photos to load properly in a forum. It's a PITA!


With that setup you can get an idea how much simple intake mods will help by plugging the intake with your hand. That will be about as good as any intake mod could hope to be.

The rubber hose on the inlet of the filter housing is very cheap and does help quite a bit. Some people have done things like send that hose into a car muffler or a box with sound absorbing material that acts like a muffler. I'm not sure how much that helps but it can't hurt. In my car just the rubber hose did a lot. I'm not a huge fan of pulling air in from the attic because it will be very hot in the summer. It's better to draw in cooler air.

After that you are dealing with the mechanical noise and the tank acting like a bell. I've heard of people putting sound deadening material on the tank. The rubber pump mounts would help but I would worry about how that could affect the belt alignment and that intake tube would have to be redone with a loop for stress relief.
I'll try that, thanks!
 
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