Remote central locking on my toolbox
This is my little remote control project, that did get a little out of control
Just a short story about me, I’m living in Sweden for the moment working as a electrician. I´m a graduated aircraft technician and are going to move over to work in Illinois in usa. I have just 1 to 2 month left until I get my visa.
It started with a small idea when I did get my Snap-On kra4820 on the side of my Tengtools rollcabin. I though it would be to disturbing to have several keys to handle every single day, so I started to sketch on a central looking solution to my rollcabin.
I did buy 3 central locking motors from a saab 9000
They didn’t work the way I had expected, so I did rebuild them a little bit.
Originally they did just pop out with a fast snap and then they was in a neutral position again. But after some thinking I did rebuild them to have 2 dead ends with 4 pounds of torque.
Unfortunately the looking bar where to heavy for be hold by the motor in the “open” position without falling down, so what should I do?
Back to AutoCAD again, I started to think about over bending in landing gears on airplanes. So I did sketch up a blueprint over a mechanism with this technic.
It did work superb on the tengtools rollcabin, the problem was the Snap-On cabin because it´s just 20 mm between the back and the drawers and the motors are about 24 mm wide.
I did find out that I couldn’t maneuver the looking bar in the same way as the rollcabin, so I did pick out the grinder and did a hole for a strut as shown in the picture
I did also grind a hole for the motor and the brackets in the floor.
When all that was working I figure out that with a little bit of cupper pipe in the end of the bracket against the strut it worked allot better.
Movie on the final Snap-On look
www.hultarp.se/teng/snapon.m4v
The side cabin did also get it´s own look ☺
I will ad more pictures later on
Now to the funnier parts.
First I started out with a small electronic box, all the wiring and remote control electronic went down into that box.
Wiring diagram over all the box, www.hultarp.se/teng/wiringdiagram.zip
The parts I used for this:
Remote from Velleman VM130
2 alternating relays with dual contacts
1 Case/Box
12v battery on 7.2Ah
As you see in this picture and in the diagram I connect the wires from the motors into one socket and 12v into another so I have a total of 8 cables in to the case.
I did also place a switch to main power from the battery so I could turn it of on weekends and holidays.
This electronic box did I place in the big electronic compartment in the bottom of the rollcabin, as you can see I did build a framework to hold the Plexiglas in place and to get a nice looking electronic box.
When I did this I got a small idea that it maybe could be smart to have 110v on the cabin when you use some instruments or just want some more lights.
Products I did order for get this to work:
3 us sockets for panel mounting
2 automatic fuses each on 10 amps
1 relay Primary: 12v Secondary 110v (this was a stupid decision because why should I use my 12v power when I don’t use the 110v system. If I had done this today I had got a relay primary 110v secondary 110v)
1 Switch for the relay
It was a little tricky to get the sockets lined up but I did pretty good I believe.
One more think I did wrong was to place 10 amps fuses, I live in Sweden for the moment and we use 230v so 10 amp are in 110v systems 20 amps. I did use 2.5 mm 2 cables so I don’t think this will work when I connect it to power. But who knows?
The electric compartment did I build with the usual things we use when we build electronic boxes at work. I share a short list:
DIN-rail for the fuses and ground terminal
Cable channels
Plexiglas
Stuff I have left to do/or improve:
• Connect the ground wires to ground on some good place
• Build a metal bracket for the battery
• Build a metal case for the motor on the snapon cabin so you don’t can open it from the outside.
• Find a way to get 110v into the box, I don’t know if there are male us sockets for panel mount? You maybe know?
• I want a clock in the front of the toolbox, panel mounted but I cant find a clock to fit in a panel.
The place I did left empty in the electronic compartment is for the components to my next project.
Fully remote controlled toolbox, with bigger wheels and a slightly raised work height.
Hope you liked my project
This is my little remote control project, that did get a little out of control
Just a short story about me, I’m living in Sweden for the moment working as a electrician. I´m a graduated aircraft technician and are going to move over to work in Illinois in usa. I have just 1 to 2 month left until I get my visa.
It started with a small idea when I did get my Snap-On kra4820 on the side of my Tengtools rollcabin. I though it would be to disturbing to have several keys to handle every single day, so I started to sketch on a central looking solution to my rollcabin.
I did buy 3 central locking motors from a saab 9000
They didn’t work the way I had expected, so I did rebuild them a little bit.
Originally they did just pop out with a fast snap and then they was in a neutral position again. But after some thinking I did rebuild them to have 2 dead ends with 4 pounds of torque.
Unfortunately the looking bar where to heavy for be hold by the motor in the “open” position without falling down, so what should I do?
Back to AutoCAD again, I started to think about over bending in landing gears on airplanes. So I did sketch up a blueprint over a mechanism with this technic.
It did work superb on the tengtools rollcabin, the problem was the Snap-On cabin because it´s just 20 mm between the back and the drawers and the motors are about 24 mm wide.
I did find out that I couldn’t maneuver the looking bar in the same way as the rollcabin, so I did pick out the grinder and did a hole for a strut as shown in the picture
I did also grind a hole for the motor and the brackets in the floor.
When all that was working I figure out that with a little bit of cupper pipe in the end of the bracket against the strut it worked allot better.
Movie on the final Snap-On look
www.hultarp.se/teng/snapon.m4v
The side cabin did also get it´s own look ☺
I will ad more pictures later on
Now to the funnier parts.
First I started out with a small electronic box, all the wiring and remote control electronic went down into that box.
Wiring diagram over all the box, www.hultarp.se/teng/wiringdiagram.zip
The parts I used for this:
Remote from Velleman VM130
2 alternating relays with dual contacts
1 Case/Box
12v battery on 7.2Ah
As you see in this picture and in the diagram I connect the wires from the motors into one socket and 12v into another so I have a total of 8 cables in to the case.
I did also place a switch to main power from the battery so I could turn it of on weekends and holidays.
This electronic box did I place in the big electronic compartment in the bottom of the rollcabin, as you can see I did build a framework to hold the Plexiglas in place and to get a nice looking electronic box.
When I did this I got a small idea that it maybe could be smart to have 110v on the cabin when you use some instruments or just want some more lights.
Products I did order for get this to work:
3 us sockets for panel mounting
2 automatic fuses each on 10 amps
1 relay Primary: 12v Secondary 110v (this was a stupid decision because why should I use my 12v power when I don’t use the 110v system. If I had done this today I had got a relay primary 110v secondary 110v)
1 Switch for the relay
It was a little tricky to get the sockets lined up but I did pretty good I believe.
One more think I did wrong was to place 10 amps fuses, I live in Sweden for the moment and we use 230v so 10 amp are in 110v systems 20 amps. I did use 2.5 mm 2 cables so I don’t think this will work when I connect it to power. But who knows?
The electric compartment did I build with the usual things we use when we build electronic boxes at work. I share a short list:
DIN-rail for the fuses and ground terminal
Cable channels
Plexiglas
Stuff I have left to do/or improve:
• Connect the ground wires to ground on some good place
• Build a metal bracket for the battery
• Build a metal case for the motor on the snapon cabin so you don’t can open it from the outside.
• Find a way to get 110v into the box, I don’t know if there are male us sockets for panel mount? You maybe know?
• I want a clock in the front of the toolbox, panel mounted but I cant find a clock to fit in a panel.
The place I did left empty in the electronic compartment is for the components to my next project.
Fully remote controlled toolbox, with bigger wheels and a slightly raised work height.
Hope you liked my project
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