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Remove deck nails from rotted deck boards in masse?

3cargarage

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May 10, 2022
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**Apologies in advance for this not being garage related but you all know how it is.**

I have a few hundred nails to remove for on about 20 19 foot long rotten deck boards. There is no standing room underneath and my back isn't the greatest nor are my knees. The nails are pretty sunk in.

Any advice on removing from the top as quickly as possible?

Thank you.
 
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3cargarage

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May 10, 2022
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If it's rotten, the nails ought to just pull through. If it's not rotten, it'll still be easier to just pry the boards up with a crowbar and deal with the nails later if you need to.

It's not rotten where it meets the joists of course.
 

jack stand

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Run a saw across these 20 boards just missing the joists below and at each joist. Not each side but always the same side. Push up at each cut to have a grip from the top and chances are the nails will either come out with each short board or come out leaving the nails to be pulled without a catspaw!
Obviously you'll have a lot of 16" little boards to pick up but it'll be easy on your back.
 

CraigStu

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Blacksburg, Va
I did that 2 years ago on still good boards so I could install composite. I tried for maybe 20 min to dig down to grab nails to pull them out. NFW. I pried up the boards w/ several different pry tools/levers. Nails that stayed in the joists were either removed or just hammered down. The rest I turned the board over on the grass and hammered the nails enough so I could pull them after flipping the board back over. I did buy a new long handle hammer for that job.
 

BombShelter

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State of Hockey
I'd get a pry bar from one end and lift the entire board, some or most will come out (with the board) once you get 3'-4' of leverage.
Some boards may snap in half if the nail won't release.
Turn over and pound nails enough to get a crow bar on them from the top, if your saving the nails.
Have fire pit ready to burn, beware, treated lumber may have arsenic fumes.
Use Spax Screws on next deck.
 
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mepstein

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I recently did a big deck (my dad's) in a couple hours. Big pry bar (I think its about 5' long) and someone to move each board out of the way once it's pulled. Don't cheap out with a 3' or smaller bar. The big bar lets you use your body weight. Smaller ones require a lot of muscle.
 

firebirdparts

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Kingsport, TN
If you are trying to remove the boards, then bump from below with something very very heavy. Ignore the nails. a suitably long piece of a 4 x 4 works well (for instance). Short on weight but good geometry.

If ring shank nails, then they can never be removed by any craft we here possess.
 

mike93lx

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Richmond, VA
I'd pry the boards off. Any nails that don't come with them get cut with a sawzall using a carbide blade. Or pried out with a long handle bar like a Burke or Gutster
 

nadogail

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Coronado, CA
I recently did a big deck (my dad's) in a couple hours. Big pry bar (I think its about 5' long) and someone to move each board out of the way once it's pulled. Don't cheap out with a 3' or smaller bar. The big bar lets you use your body weight. Smaller ones require a lot of muscle.
The longer the lever, the better the fight..
 

bwringer

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Jan 1, 2013
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Indianapolis
I did that 2 years ago on still good boards so I could install composite. I tried for maybe 20 min to dig down to grab nails to pull them out. NFW. I pried up the boards w/ several different pry tools/levers. Nails that stayed in the joists were either removed or just hammered down. The rest I turned the board over on the grass and hammered the nails enough so I could pull them after flipping the board back over. I did buy a new long handle hammer for that job.
Pretty much the only thing that works.

If you need to remove the nails for some other reason (safer handling for disposal, maybe?) then that is a lot easier with the boards out so you can flip them over and bash the nails back through.

FWIW, don't burn pressure treated wood... the smoke is toxic as hell.
 

metalmagpie

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Nov 1, 2011
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Seattle
1969 International Loadstar with a flatbed, rotten boards. I used a saw to cut parallel to the stringers on both sides, leaving strips of old wood about 3" wide. Then I just took a hammer and knocked the wood out. At that point if you were doing a deck you could pull the nails. I just took an air hammer with a chisel tip and sheared off the screws flush. This was fast and safe but was very messy.
 

dcg9381

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Austin, TX
So that last time I did this on a redwood deck, it was the penetrations to the joists that were doing damage. I pulled all the screws and eventually went back and taped every joist. Replaced the "deck screws" (which were not outdoor rated) with stainless.

In general, I hate wood decks, we get < 10 years out of 'em in the south... But I'm a fan of joist tape if you're going to stick with wood.

1756241271531.png
 

dcg9381

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Just the decking material or framing too?
Decking materials. If you protect the framing, you should should be able to re-deck. It's about sun and water exposure. Wrap the joists here and you'll be able to keep the frame. I fixed it up before the joists got water logged from the top.

This it a redwood deck that I had done, you can see it's starting to buck and have issues. The parts not under cover were already being replaced. I blame "wrong hardware" for some of it, but TX UV is really hard on wood. This is probably year 5-7.

1756243056265.png

This is deck design #2. I couldn't find contractors that would work with both wood/TREX and steel, so I ended up doing all the steel myself. I still have wood joists, but they're all wrapped and the TREX hardware does not come down from the top (lets water in).

1756243168864.png
 
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