joe_pinehill1
Well-known member
I'll admit i was careless, didnt oil the tap often enough, tried to tap too quickly. A 1/4 20 tap snapped on me. Are there tricks to remove. I imagine its hard to drill a tap.
Removing a broken tap
- Thread starter joe_pinehill1
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4x4gearhead
Well-known member
Did it break off in the hole? Is some of it sticking out? Sometimes i have used a couple picks in the flutes of the tap and turned them with a pair of pliers or a screwdriver in between them. Sometimes a hammer and chisel or center punch can be used to try to get the tap to turn. Unfortunately the smaller the tap the harder this all generally is. In the past with some larger taps i actually used a oxy acetyline torch to gingerly blast it out of the hole. But with 1/4-20 i dont think thats an option. What did it break off in?
Movover
Well-known member
I have gotten lucky and used a pair of old needle nose and got a tap to back out, you can try welding nut on if you have anything sticking up otherwise a tap removal kit.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NGGCM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NGGCM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If the part is valuable and you can't get the tap out, take it to a machine shop with an EDM, they can burn it out without damaging the surrounding material.
I would try a center punch, use it to drive the tap counter clockwise hitting against the flutes, if you get lucky, it will back out. If not, you're probably screwed. It depends how deep in the parent material it is.
If the part is not valuable, it might be easier and cheaper to get or make another one.
Pick up a can of Tap Free or Tap Magic, they work much better than regular oil.
I would try a center punch, use it to drive the tap counter clockwise hitting against the flutes, if you get lucky, it will back out. If not, you're probably screwed. It depends how deep in the parent material it is.
If the part is not valuable, it might be easier and cheaper to get or make another one.
Pick up a can of Tap Free or Tap Magic, they work much better than regular oil.
OP
joe_pinehill1
Well-known member
its a tab on a kohler 12 hp engine that holds the fan shroud in place. There are many fasteners, so im not panicking. A bolt had snaped in the threads over summer. Yesterday i had time and drilled the bolt for a 1/4 tap and started to tap the hole.
The tab is aluminum, so I don't want to use heat.
The tab is aluminum, so I don't want to use heat.
akalian
Well-known member
I keep a can of this stuff to help remove broken taps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UH3NB8/?tag=atomicindus08-20
You can also use regular R134a if you have a can tap.
Freezing the tap will make it brittle and it will shatter when you beat on it with a hammer and chisel.
Best to use a full face shield since the little tap chips are very sharp.
This method is used only as a last resort and it tends to make a mess of the hole that the tap is stuck in.
Good luck.
.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UH3NB8/?tag=atomicindus08-20
You can also use regular R134a if you have a can tap.
Freezing the tap will make it brittle and it will shatter when you beat on it with a hammer and chisel.
Best to use a full face shield since the little tap chips are very sharp.
This method is used only as a last resort and it tends to make a mess of the hole that the tap is stuck in.
Good luck.
.
4x4gearhead
Well-known member
Aluminum can be the worst to try to remove a broken tap from since it is so soft. The hammer and punch technique usually ruins the hole. Im not sure what you have for access or space on the bracket but maybe just drill a hole in the bracket next to it and through bolt it so it doesnt rattle. Again not sure the exact situation.
What he said.
If you want to get it back to basically original configuration, you might end up chopping up the hole to break the tap into pieces so you can pick it out. Cheap carbide masonry drills might get some of the tap out. Think of them as perishable tooling. They are pretty cheap anyway. Try not to get the mess off center. Then need to open it up and use one of the thread repair kits to restore the 1/4-20. All this is kind of a pain, but it is done all the time.
If it gets too messy, you might have to find a machine shop that will take on a little job of burning out the tap and repairing the hole. Pretty straightforward for a shop equipped for the job, but not cheap. If the shop is busy, they might not want to interrupt for such a small job. Shop rates at least $50 an hour on up. Sounds like 2-3 hours minimum. You do the math.
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E.Marquez
Well-known member
I have had good luck with Walton Tap Extractors
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NGGCM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Other times I've used a plasma cutter to "hole" the tap, then fractured the pieces and removed them.
Other times If I have the right size thread repair coil or bushing on hand, the fastest method is to just use a center punch to break up the tap, drill the remaining hole for a thread insert...
It takes less time to break the tap out, clean the mess, drill , thread and insert thread repair part then it does using other methods and finding the remaining threads still need to be re-cut, repaired, replaced.
If the part is really important to me, and a basic backing out of the tap with extractor does not work I'll let a shop that has EDM do the job....its a bit pricey, but on a part that can not be replaced or is too fragile to work harshly on.... its worth it....
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NGGCM/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Other times I've used a plasma cutter to "hole" the tap, then fractured the pieces and removed them.
Other times If I have the right size thread repair coil or bushing on hand, the fastest method is to just use a center punch to break up the tap, drill the remaining hole for a thread insert...
It takes less time to break the tap out, clean the mess, drill , thread and insert thread repair part then it does using other methods and finding the remaining threads still need to be re-cut, repaired, replaced.
If the part is really important to me, and a basic backing out of the tap with extractor does not work I'll let a shop that has EDM do the job....its a bit pricey, but on a part that can not be replaced or is too fragile to work harshly on.... its worth it....
E.Marquez
Well-known member
For those not familiar with EDM....or why it might cost you $200 to have a tap removed using this method.. think machine cost buy in and set up/ processing time.
http://www.brokentapremover.com
http://www.brokentapremover.com
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
Dissolve the tap since it is in aluminum
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general/broken-tap-removal-chemical-methods-198135/
MagKarl
Well-known member
Put a 1/4" flat washer over the broken tap. Weld the tap end to the washer. Weld a nut or other chunk to grip onto the washer. Back it out.
Tinner
Well-known member
A good operator can shoot a tap out on a water jet, we do it at work fairly often. Tap generally has to be about #8 or larger to avoid enlarging the hole. A lot cheaper and faster than EDM.
This is best used for taps in through holes, but Ive seen it done on blind holes in heavier material.
This is best used for taps in through holes, but Ive seen it done on blind holes in heavier material.
Last edited:
Surreal001
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2014
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I've had success drilling one out with a titanium nitride drill bit, slow speeds, and lots of oil. It broke up into chunks. Fortunately the tap was carbide and not HSS or I may not have been so lucky.
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
engineer2
Well-known member
If it's unreachable, you might be able to grind it out with a small stone on a die grinder or Dremel. Would be slow going and you might go through several stones.
Tip: don't buy Harbor Freight stones. They disintegrate easily.
Tip: don't buy Harbor Freight stones. They disintegrate easily.
BreeStephany
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If the tap is sticking up, you can generally grab on to it with a pair of vise grips. Get a GOOD grip on it because you generally only get one chance to get it moving. With vise grips, it will either move or break bellow the surface.
If you break the tap below the surface, there are a few options. If its an absolute must that it must be removed and you have a little time, I've heard people having varying success with Walton broken tap extractors. I haven't used them myself, but I've heard people swear by them.
Another route would be to drill them and either knock out the tap threads or put an screw extractor in and and try to back it out.
If you try either of the extractor methods, definitely make sure to use a good liquid penetrant. As of lately, I've had a lot of success with Mouse Milk.
Just my two cents.
If you break the tap below the surface, there are a few options. If its an absolute must that it must be removed and you have a little time, I've heard people having varying success with Walton broken tap extractors. I haven't used them myself, but I've heard people swear by them.
Another route would be to drill them and either knock out the tap threads or put an screw extractor in and and try to back it out.
If you try either of the extractor methods, definitely make sure to use a good liquid penetrant. As of lately, I've had a lot of success with Mouse Milk.
Just my two cents.
davethorik
Well-known member
The tap extractors can work if it's a 'clean' break, but if you've done something like bottomed a tap out in a blind hole, and the tap is jammed in there, the fingers will just bend.
The method I've had success with was using a smaller diameter straight flute carbide drill centered on the hole (on a milling machine) high rpm, air blast, feed very slowly. It usually roaches the drill but doesn't cause a lot of collateral damage.
The method I've had success with was using a smaller diameter straight flute carbide drill centered on the hole (on a milling machine) high rpm, air blast, feed very slowly. It usually roaches the drill but doesn't cause a lot of collateral damage.
Dingleburry
Well-known member
Id try a 1/8 carbide bur in a drill. The one with a round bottom. And drill it out. Or even in a die grinder.
wait4me
Well-known member
Last time I did this I welded a blob onto the end of the tap and grabbed that with some vice grips and backed it out.
Schurkey
Well-known member
Thanks for that. I've had 'em for decades. Very recommended as long as you acknowledge that the "fingers" are consumables.
sberry
Banned
lbhsbz
Well-known member
What material is the tap broken off in?
If steel / iron, then you're stuck with mechanical extraction methods mentioned by all the others. If it's in aluminum, you can use Alum to dissolve the tap.
If steel / iron, then you're stuck with mechanical extraction methods mentioned by all the others. If it's in aluminum, you can use Alum to dissolve the tap.
If you can't reach it with needle nose or it's twisting the pliers, try two or more rods down the flutes and apply torque to those. If you broke a four flute, use four rods. Lube will help. (Kerosene for aluminum)
Sometimes rocking back and forth from CW to CCW helps.
Blow whatever remaining chips out with an air hose before beginning.
If you can break the cutting edge free from the aluminum you're home free.
The hammer and chisel is good to try and break it free but as it's in aluminum that will absorb a lot of the shock and distort. If you get lucky it will crack out in pieces. Sometimes a combination of these and what other guys suggested is what you will need to do.
Sometimes rocking back and forth from CW to CCW helps.
Blow whatever remaining chips out with an air hose before beginning.
If you can break the cutting edge free from the aluminum you're home free.
The hammer and chisel is good to try and break it free but as it's in aluminum that will absorb a lot of the shock and distort. If you get lucky it will crack out in pieces. Sometimes a combination of these and what other guys suggested is what you will need to do.
OP
joe_pinehill1
Well-known member
I was going to try this, I have a Foredom and will use a small carbide cutter.