HoosierMark
Well-known member
Element is rusted and socket will not hold to loosen it. Any body got any tricks to remove it. Plumber friend says replace whole heater and 5hat is an option.
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Removing a rusted water heater element
- Thread starter HoosierMark
- Start date
OP
HoosierMark
Well-known member
He says it is all rusted around the outside of the screw in element. Can’t get pictures until tomorrow
66Caprice
Well-known member
Replace it...
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
New heater time. If it's rusted as described, probably lots of other corrosion going on other places.
nit2wn
Well-known member
If the element is that bad, you're wasting time and money on a new element. Best thing is to start looking for the replacement heater and decide if you want the new ones that heat on demand and hang on the wall, a new one of your current version, or maybe a heat pump version that becoming the newest thing. The biggest question is how deep is your pocketbook.
gizardlizard
Well-known member
At work, I have a 3/4” drive , 1 1/2” socket that I cut the lead in off from. Prevents the socket from slipping off. We have super rusty ones too and I need a 3/4” breaker bar and someone to hold the water heater.
OP
HoosierMark
Well-known member
Gizardlizard I do not know what you mean by cutting the lead in off.
yes I understand it is probably best to just replace it. But I still like to try a few things. We plan to see if we can cut a couple of notches in it and use a punch to turn it. May also try drilling thru center and driving a punch in or something like an easy out. The water heater is not that old plus I like a challenge. Obviously you only spend a little bit of time on it and then give up.
i ran into a similar situation trying to replace a damaged handle end on a frost free hydrant. I could not get it loose due to plastic breaking. Plumber said to take a torch and melt it, then pick out the plastic. Saved me from cutting into interior drywall and replacing whole faucet.
i find theres a lot of knowledge out there, you just got to find it.
yes I understand it is probably best to just replace it. But I still like to try a few things. We plan to see if we can cut a couple of notches in it and use a punch to turn it. May also try drilling thru center and driving a punch in or something like an easy out. The water heater is not that old plus I like a challenge. Obviously you only spend a little bit of time on it and then give up.
i ran into a similar situation trying to replace a damaged handle end on a frost free hydrant. I could not get it loose due to plastic breaking. Plumber said to take a torch and melt it, then pick out the plastic. Saved me from cutting into interior drywall and replacing whole faucet.
i find theres a lot of knowledge out there, you just got to find it.
I believe he means to cut the chamfered edge off the socket so it bites better.Gizardlizard I do not know what you mean by cutting the lead in off.
gizardlizard
Well-known member
Correct. The hex on a water heater element is very shallow and the chamfer on the socket makes it slip off really easy. I cut the chamfer off, so it’s square to the socket. It never slips off now and bites down hard on the hex.I believe he means to cut the chamfered edge off the socket so it bites better.
Rst277
Well-known member
If you can't turn it with a socket the notch and punch idea will likely not work either. Do you have a big pipe wrench?Gizardlizard I do not know what you mean by cutting the lead in off.
yes I understand it is probably best to just replace it. But I still like to try a few things. We plan to see if we can cut a couple of notches in it and use a punch to turn it. May also try drilling thru center and driving a punch in or something like an easy out. The water heater is not that old plus I like a challenge. Obviously you only spend a little bit of time on it and then give up.
i ran into a similar situation trying to replace a damaged handle end on a frost free hydrant. I could not get it loose due to plastic breaking. Plumber said to take a torch and melt it, then pick out the plastic. Saved me from cutting into interior drywall and replacing whole faucet.
i find theres a lot of knowledge out there, you just got to find it.
Fav Onefour
Well-known member
I like the idea of cutting that edge.At work, I have a 3/4” drive , 1 1/2” socket that I cut the lead in off from. Prevents the socket from slipping off. We have super rusty ones too and I need a 3/4” breaker bar and someone to hold the water heater.
I have a 6pt sitting with my plumbing tools just for this issue. Sounds like a little modification is on the agenda.
It's rare to have enough room around the elements for a pipe wrench. The big socket, big bar has worked pretty well most of the time. Some of mine don't have a raised ****** for the element. Those have been buggers.
DGersic
Well-known member
With enough torque, you can rip the threaded bung right out of the thin sheet metal tank.
Dagny
Well-known member
Drill a bunch of holes through it sharp chisel cave in the top and peel it out.
TheRealZeus
Well-known member
If the nut is not rounded, appropriate six point impact socket on a 20v driver worked for me, after a breaker bar would not do it. The back up plan was a complete replacement of the water heater.. it was grimy but came loose.
retDAC
Well-known member
FWIW the correct term for the chamfered edge is leade. Mostly used in reference to firearms.I believe he means to cut the chamfered edge off the socket so it bites better.
OP
HoosierMark
Well-known member
Ended up replacing water heater with a new one. Thanks for all the advice.