Removing Casters from US General 42". Thoughts on protecting it?

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I am going to remove the casters from a new US General 42" box so that it will fit under a workbench. The workbench clearance is 35". The cab appears to be 35-5/16" without the casters. I can probably get that extra 5/16" by adjusting the workbench feet.

That said, I am a little squeamish about sliding the cab across the concrete. It will probably take the powdercoat off and allow for corrosion to start. Options:

1. Leave it like it is. Nobody will care about the scraped powdercoat and possible rust 20 years from now.
2. Try to keep it on a piece of the cardboard that it was packed in. I can see the cab sliding off the cardboard while trying to move it.
3. Try to keep it on a piece of coroplast. I have quite a bit of this available. I can also see the cab sliding off the coroplast while trying to move it.
4. Wrap the bottom edge of the cab in teflon tape. I have some on hand. Not sure if it would survive the sliding on concrete.

Your thoughts?

 

[mike93lx]

Option 1

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Option 1

But I like to over-think, over-complicate, and over-engineer practically everything I do.

 

[Stelzer]

But I like to over-think, over-complicate, and over-engineer practically everything I do.

Well in that case, considering raising your workbench.

 

[larry4406]

I think I would use a pressure treated or pvc batten strip like you see on lattices to keep it off the concrete.

These are around 3/16” +/-

Your slab may or may not have a vapor barrier under it.

Don’t do the cardboard.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

It looks like I have 35' of 1" teflon tape. Enough for 3 layers all the way around (does teflon stick to itself?)

 

[GrayFlattop]

I would probably put it on a couple strips of Formica since I have a ton of it around. If you wanted to get fancy, maybe use a few strips of HDPE since it will be a little easier to slide it in.

 

[mysery]

I removed the casters from a Craftsman box and put them on Harbor Freight hardwood dollies, that dropped it enough to fit under my workbench. It also allows me to easily move it in or out if needed.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Bear in mind that I have limited adjustment range with the workbench - unless I move the adjustable legs to the next set of holes. That would put the top of the bench at 38-3/4" which is getting a little tall for me.

It is just your standard Sam's / Seville / UltraHD workbench.

 

[larry4406]

It looks like I have 35' of 1" teflon tape. Enough for 3 layers all the way around (does teflon stick to itself?)

Will the future you cuss the passed you out when it’s time to remove the tape and put the lost wheels back on?

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Will the future your cuss the passed you out when it’s time to remove the tape and put the lost wheels back on?

Good question. Sometimes I look at stuff I did years ago and think "wow, I must have been smarter back then because I have no idea how this is supposed to work!"

 

[u2slow]

Taking casters off things, and too-low workbench heights are two things I refuse to indulge in anymore.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Taking casters off things, and too-low workbench heights are two things I refuse to indulge in anymore.

I am old enough to know better, but immature enough to do it anyway.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

After some research, the obvious solution is 3M polyurethane tape that is used to protect the leading edge of helicopter rotors in abrasive conditions.

 

[mike93lx]

After some research, the obvious solution is 3M polyurethane tape that is used to protect the leading edge of helicopter rotors in abrasive conditions.

 

[no704]

Put some nylon tipped set screws in the caster holes backwards. Or just some nylon bolts.

 

[rust in the eye]

The concrete aside being abrasive is a big thermal mass so condensation will be a problem unless climate controlled,perhaps even then.
I would put something under it to prevent scraping the paint from the bottom and as a vapor barrier. What and how thick depends on how high you can get your bench. Somebody suggested a sheet of Formica, this sounds ideal to me, thin, waterproof and slippery.

 

[whateg01]

Raise the bench first. My 27" cabinets have a lip around the bottom so I cut a piece of 3/4 plywood to go under it. The edge of the box is, iirc, about 1/4" off the floor.

 

[yhprum]

Put a piece of Masonite on the floor and the box on top of it.

 

[mreisner]

To touch on a previous suggestion, something that would provide a thermal break as you could have condensation problems inside the Box even with a heated shop to a cold floor. Also you want something that isn't going to Wick moisture from the concrete onto the bottom of the box. Perhaps a thin piece of foil faced foam insulation board? It might indent slightly but it also is not going to be slippery so the box is not going to be moving around as you open and close the drawers.

 

[Chris705]

I like option #3. Not sure if members know that chloroplast is a plastic version of corrugated cardboard. A simple cost effective solution to protect the underside of your box!

 

[GreenIron]

→ Channel Edge Guard ←



Like a door edge guard on a car door.

Install it on the bottom lip and leave it there.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I will try the coroplast. If the box won't stay on the coroplast, I might try some strategic beads of hot glue where they won't be seen to anchor it. I have some high temp glue that will stick to coroplast.

 

[david3921]

Put smaller casters on the cabinet.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I like option #3. Not sure if members know that chloroplast is a plastic version of corrugated cardboard. A simple cost effective solution to protect the underside of your box!

Yep, coroplast is very useful stuff. I have four 2'x4' sheets that I was going to use to make animated singing Christmas trees.

 

[RTM]

I’d temporarily jack the workbench up enough to get the box safely slid in, then drop the workbench down again. If your leg screws are too short to get the 5/16” plus vapor barrier, buy longer screw feet.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

I’d temporarily jack the workbench up enough to get the box safely slid in, then drop the workbench down again. If your leg screws are too short to get the 5/16” plus vapor barrier, buy longer screw feet.

Can definitely get the 5/16" no problem. The coroplast will add a bit, but it will also squish a little.

 

[Dig Doug]

How are you going to level the tool box?
set it on the bare floor and let it be ….

check the floor for level you might have to adjust the toolbox

Then figure out the height of the bench

 

[milky2k]

I did this with a Craftsman Professional tool box. I built a faceframe out of cedar 2x4 that fit in the C channel that supported the casters. Seems to be fine and now small parts don’t get lost under the tool box.

 

[16again]

I did this same thing 2 years ago. Double stack, It's the bottom, scratches are no problem. Sitting on concrete and it potentially rusts in 10 years? I'll replace it. Works perfect for my needs without the wheels.

 

[gilbo]

The concrete aside being abrasive is a big thermal mass so condensation will be a problem unless climate controlled,perhaps even then.
I would put something under it to prevent scraping the paint from the bottom and as a vapor barrier. What and how thick depends on how high you can get your bench. Somebody suggested a sheet of Formica, this sounds ideal to me, thin, waterproof and slippery.

DING, DING, DING!!!! What you said is spot on.

 

[seber]

Bare steel on concrete will rust away in months. Lay down two sheets of heavy polyethylene wrap so one will slide over the other. I would add Teflon tape as well. Now when you slide it in, the paint is protected and you have a vapor barrier in place. You can cut off whatever is left in front after the fact.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Bare steel on concrete will rust away in months. Lay down two sheets of heavy polyethylene wrap so one will slide over the other. I would add Teflon tape as well. Now when you slide it in, the paint is protected and you have a vapor barrier in place. You can cut off whatever is left in front after the fact.

This idea has merit also.

 

[GeoBruin]

New idea: don't let the box rest on the lip. Make some pads/sliders that will bolt to the pads where the castors usually mount. You can use the castors to trace/drill the bolt holes. Countersink the holes so the bolts aren't sticking down. You could use anything from 1x, hardwood hobby board, hdpe, whatever.

In this scenario you can leave a small gap of your desired height under the lip so it doesn't get scratched, and so it will breath. Plus the load will rest on the factory mounting points as intended. They're sacrificial so you can scratch them up all you want. Also, you'll be able to shim under them if you want to level the box out.

 

[whateg01]

New idea: don't let the box rest on the lip. Make some pads/sliders that will bolt to the pads where the castors usually mount. You can use the castors to trace/drill the bolt holes. Countersink the holes so the bolts aren't sticking down. You could use anything from 1x, hardwood hobby board, hdpe, whatever.

In this scenario you can leave a small gap of your desired height under the lip so it doesn't get scratched, and so it will breath. Plus the load will rest on the factory mounting points as intended. They're sacrificial so you can scratch them up all you want. Also, you'll be able to shim under them if you want to level the box out.

I can only imagine the collection of 10mm sockets under the box after a couple years!

 

[JABgj]

-

 

[GeoBruin]

I can only imagine the collection of 10mm sockets under the box after a couple years!

The gap doesn't have to be that big. It could be 1/8" or even less. Just enough to keep the lip off the floor.

 

[whateg01]

The gap doesn't have to be that big. It could be 1/8" or even less. Just enough to keep the lip off the floor.

Might be different than my USG boxes then. On mine, the lip extends farther on the ends than it does in the middle. In fact, I don't think mine have a lip at all in the middle, so if I had done that, there would be a gap the thickness of the plywood there.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

Might be different than my USG boxes then. On mine, the lip extends farther on the ends than it does in the middle. In fact, I don't think mine have a lip at all in the middle, so if I had done that, there would be a gap the thickness of the plywood there.

Appears to be the same all around.

 

[Dr.JohnnyFever]

New idea: don't let the box rest on the lip. Make some pads/sliders that will bolt to the pads where the castors usually mount. You can use the castors to trace/drill the bolt holes. Countersink the holes so the bolts aren't sticking down. You could use anything from 1x, hardwood hobby board, hdpe, whatever.

In this scenario you can leave a small gap of your desired height under the lip so it doesn't get scratched, and so it will breath. Plus the load will rest on the factory mounting points as intended. They're sacrificial so you can scratch them up all you want. Also, you'll be able to shim under them if you want to level the box out.

I had considered this also. Maybe using UHMW. However, I was hoping to get this knocked out this weekend and would have to wait for the UHMW or Delrin to arrive.