Reorganization, it's like a renovation.

[Red Leader]

First of all, the drawers look fabulous.

Second, the vise looks awesome. You restored? Seems like so many are restoring old vices I get the folks confused. What color did you go with on that one?

Regarding the leather - I love the look of a smooth, weathered golden brown leather. 2 things in my mind age better than anything else, well-cared for leather and military gunstocks

Okay, some real nice oak floors age pretty well, too!

 

[GirlnAgarage]

First of all, the drawers look fabulous.

Second, the vise looks awesome. You restored? Seems like so many are restoring old vices I get the folks confused. What color did you go with on that one?

Regarding the leather - I love the look of a smooth, weathered golden brown leather. 2 things in my mind age better than anything else, well-cared for leather and military gunstocks

Okay, some real nice oak floors age pretty well, too!

Thank you

I did restore the vise. I guess I can't use the word 'restore' since originally the Fuller was red, but it is my handy work. I used the Rustoleum Hammered Gray. It's a little tough to distinguish the texture since the cast iron is pretty textured, but it came out ok I think.


I can picture the last thing very well. Very nice indeed

 

[rickairmedic]

Did Someone say Oak floors .


Rick

 

[Outlawmws]

Duct work sounds not as fun as beer and football


Ok Rick, here is the idea for the finger brake. I have no more details and have hardly explored the pros and cons of such. Just a motivation from the wood block I used and the individual solid fingers I see on professionally manf'd units.

Off the top of my head, wall thickness and height will matter for crush factor and also will it be taller than the sides of any items I may build with this. Also will have more material stuff to store. How will I attach these to the top plate to keep them from moving. Can I put a back plate to keep them from sliding out? My open span max 41" wide and a 3" max depth (size of angle iron leg)

Just the first thoughts that run across my head.

Girl, you never fail to amaze me on what you will tackle.

For repetitive work I see a couple of issues. You want the finger grouping to stay put on the top clamp bar as you work; You also want them to "seat" against something so they stay even on the front. (This requires them to be made pretty exact front to rear).

I'd be thinking about a separate clamp bar, shortened (In depth) so you can take advantage of the beveled cut when bending. A back stop bar welded on its back would allow the finger to get shoved in all the way, and seated. (This would interfere with the existing clamp bar's use...)

The shortening of the clamp bar would also allow fingers to be individually cinched to the clamp bar. Maybe a stud and wing nut over an "L" shaped clamp? (The stud could be a 1/4" bold threaded up from inside...)

The finger tubing had better be reasonably heavy wall, and you will need a few that are narrower than the others for fine tuning a setup. Wider jaws can be fabbed by welding several sections together. (If you look at a manufactured finger break, the fingers come in a number of widths to allow faster setup for different widths.)

Interesting approach using tubing for this. My one concern would be if you bend very heavy sheet stock, you may curl the sharp edge of the fingers up...

 

[rickairmedic]

Duct work sounds not as fun as beer and football


Ok Rick, here is the idea for the finger brake. I have no more details and have hardly explored the pros and cons of such. Just a motivation from the wood block I used and the individual solid fingers I see on professionally manf'd units.

Off the top of my head, wall thickness and height will matter for crush factor and also will it be taller than the sides of any items I may build with this. Also will have more material stuff to store. How will I attach these to the top plate to keep them from moving. Can I put a back plate to keep them from sliding out? My open span max 41" wide and a 3" max depth (size of angle iron leg)

Just the first thoughts that run across my head.

Aha I missed this post on the last page when Dave posted . I have to agree with Outlaw making a finger brake would be quite the undertaking . I will admit it might mean some more cool tools such as a nice Bridgeport mill for making the fingers and such .


Rick

 

[Phxphenom]

Unbelievable thread! Subscribed.....

 

[Red Leader]

Did Someone say Oak floors .


Rick

Rick is that your floor? Did you do it this weekend? If so, did everyone survive the hotel?

GIAG- great job on that vise. If that drill press is able to see the vise, it might get a little jealous and start wondering when it is going to be painted

 

[rickairmedic]

LOL Yes Dave thats the kitchen and Dining room floor we finally finished a couple weekends ago . I am full swing on hanging ductwork now . Then back to finish out the drywall I also am redoing in the kitchen and putting the new cabinets " back in " .Yes everybody survived the Hotel . Ok back to Girls garage .


Rick

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Yall can say it, "Woman you're crazy"


Gonna think on this finger brake a little bit.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Girl, you never fail to amaze me on what you will tackle.

When I was modifying my motorcycle so I could ride it with one hand, "they" said it couldn't be done. They were wrong If you tell me "no", you might as well have said "go for it"

When life changed I learned things aren't impossible. Some things just take a little more work than others

For repetitive work I see a couple of issues. You want the finger grouping to stay put on the top clamp bar as you work; You also want them to "seat" against something so they stay even on the front. (This requires them to be made pretty exact front to rear).

I'd be thinking about a separate clamp bar, shortened (In depth) so you can take advantage of the beveled cut when bending. A back stop bar welded on its back would allow the finger to get shoved in all the way, and seated. (This would interfere with the existing clamp bar's use...)

Agreed on the top there.

For the clamp bar I was thinking the current one should work because the bar itself will be above the height of the sides. Thus the material being folded will be able to go past 90* and utilize the bevel.

Though a separate clamp bar specifically for my fingers would be great. I wouldn't have to worry about modifications or features that would compromise the function for the simple brake.

The shortening of the clamp bar would also allow fingers to be individually cinched to the clamp bar. Maybe a stud and wing nut over an "L" shaped clamp? (The stud could be a 1/4" bold threaded up from inside...)

The finger tubing had better be reasonably heavy wall, and you will need a few that are narrower than the others for fine tuning a setup. Wider jaws can be fabbed by welding several sections together. (If you look at a manufactured finger break, the fingers come in a number of widths to allow faster setup for different widths.)

Interesting approach using tubing for this. My one concern would be if you bend very heavy sheet stock, you may curl the sharp edge of the fingers up...

I'm definitely thinking of a way to attach the fingers to the bar. Like on manf'd units, simple screws ought to work. I'm thinking there shouldn't be any kind of heavy load on the screws anyway. Just a simple method to keep them aligned.


Looking again googling sheetmetal brakes, I'm rethinking tube. What about angle? Lots of the DIY brakes out there use it under a top bar clamp. Of course the height would be a consideration. It has potential.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Unbelievable thread! Subscribed.....

Rick is that your floor? Did you do it this weekend? If so, did everyone survive the hotel?

GIAG- great job on that vise. If that drill press is able to see the vise, it might get a little jealous and start wondering when it is going to be painted

I walked by the DP today and it just glared at me. I'll have to be careful, it's ready to fit in and start pulling garage duty and I've got it in the corner away from the work zone.

LOL Yes Dave thats the kitchen and Dining room floor we finally finished a couple weekends ago . I am full swing on hanging ductwork now . Then back to finish out the drywall I also am redoing in the kitchen and putting the new cabinets " back in " .Yes everybody survived the Hotel . Ok back to Girls garage .


Rick

The floor is your wife's work right?

 

[Phxphenom]

What happens if I say "Go for it",

If you tell me "no", you might as well have said "go for it"

 

[rickairmedic]

The floor is your wife's work right?

That depends on how you look at it . My son and I layed the floor and SWMBO put the poly on it .


Rick

 

[GirlnAgarage]

What happens if I say "Go for it",

lol I'll expect the plan to work with no hurdles what-so-ever

That depends on how you look at it . My son and I layed the floor and SWMBO put the poly on it .


Rick

So, yall baked the cake and she put the icing on it.

Hmmm... guess it don't matter so long as the cake is good

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Alright! Finally got the 8th drawer trimmed up and installed. It involved cutting down the height by 1/4", redrilling slide holes, then welding up the old holes. And it's done. I was procrastinating because I didn't want to cut it down. But correctly guessing Red Leader's holes gave me some inspiration to get it done.

The last two drawers left to build are the very top and very bottom and purchase their slides. Again I'm procrastinating because I have to cut sheet metal. I don't like doing that. It's dirty and messy or painfully slow with the methods I have. I suppose if I want those drawers I need to get it together.

I'm tempted to work on the bench top. I'm ready to see greater progress. I'm getting tired of being the drawer step. Reason the top hasn't been installed was to give me access to work on the drawers. If I put the top on now I'll be less inclined to get the last two drawers finished.

I could also pull the drawers off and get them primed and painted. When I paint the drawers, how should I go about it? Prime inside of all first? Outside first? Do one at a time from start to finish? I'm using Rustoleum Hammered so the paint requires 2nd coat within 1hr or after 48hrs after first coat.

I got time to think I guess.

 

[Phxphenom]

Just curious, what kind of top are you thinking?

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Just curious, what kind of top are you thinking?

I'll be gluing 3/4" Birch top ply on 19/32 ply and the whole thing will get
screwed on top of the frame.

 

[rickairmedic]

Well if it were me I would prime the insides and then flip them over and prime the outsides . Then paint in the same order . Much less likely to get overspray that way and insures the insides get good coverage .

Rick

 

[rickairmedic]

You know after looking at the hand controls on your bike " I think you can do anything you set your mind to " . Thats impresive throttle,clutch and brake all with one hand .



Rick

 

[Outlawmws]

SNIP

I could also pull the drawers off and get them primed and painted. When I paint the drawers, how should I go about it? Prime inside of all first? Outside first? Do one at a time from start to finish? I'm using Rustoleum Hammered so the paint requires 2nd coat within 1hr or after 48hrs after first coat.

I got time to think I guess.

Painting order to me depends on what surface finish is most important to you. I've found Hammer tone needs to be put on THICK to get the best effect and a glossy finish; right at the point of running.

I'd expect either the drawer fronts or the inside bottom to be your most exposed finish. If you are lining them (I would) then do the drawer fronts last, and have them so the drawer front is flat to avoid runs.

You have space I think so I would do them all together stage by stage for quickest results.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

You know after looking at the hand controls on your bike " I think you can do anything you set your mind to " . Thats impresive throttle,clutch and brake all with one hand .



Rick

You know, the control setup felt pretty intuitive. For some reason it worked pretty well. As for doing anything, it scares me and makes me wonder at the same time. Scares me because of everything I can do in the future. Makes me wonder because if I knew this about myself before my accident who knows what more I could have accomplished before then.

Painting order to me depends on what surface finish is most important to you. I've found Hammer tone needs to be put on THICK to get the best effect and a glossy finish; right at the point of running.

I'd expect either the drawer fronts or the inside bottom to be your most exposed finish. If you are lining them (I would) then do the drawer fronts last, and have them so the drawer front is flat to avoid runs.

You have space I think so I would do them all together stage by stage for quickest results.

I definitely want these to have a good coat. Yes, the Hammered does like the thick coat so I'm gonna oblige.

I am laying down that grip liner. So that will be good.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Bought aluminum Uchannel today. Looks like I decided on the drawer pulls.

Other than that no work on stuff today. I had a soccer game last night then got up and ran 3mls with the dog. After buying Uchannel I came home to finish cutting up a tree for bulk pick up tomorrow. I decided to bite the bullet and get the stump out too.

I'm done. Beer me.

 

[rickairmedic]

Cool those will look good on the drawers and I got worn out just reading your post .

Rick

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Cool those will look good on the drawers and I got worn out just reading your post .

Rick

The more I thought about the pulls the more I leaned to the Uchannel. So at this point I need to prep and paint the drawers and let that cure. While that happens I can get the channel cut to length and round off the corners. Then do a light polish. Then I'll attach the channel with double side automotive side molding tape. I'm hoping that will be durable enough. My only concern is pulling the channel off the drawer. So I won't skimp on the tape.

 

[rickairmedic]

Make sure you get 3M tape and you should be in good shape .

Rick

 

[Outlawmws]

The more I thought about the pulls the more I leaned to the Uchannel. So at this point I need to prep and paint the drawers and let that cure. While that happens I can get the channel cut to length and round off the corners. Then do a light polish. Then I'll attach the channel with double side automotive side molding tape. I'm hoping that will be durable enough. My only concern is pulling the channel off the drawer. So I won't skimp on the tape.

Aw, I was liking the wrench idea...

If you have a problem with them not staying, drill the drawer and U chan with a tap drill, drill the drawer for a clearance hole, then tap the U chan and use some shorty pan head screws. With the tape, 2 would be enough.

(I'm assuming you are doing full length and upside down at the top of the drawer front)

Mothers Aluminum polish can get most aluminum's to a mirror finish if you want that look.

 

[Outlawmws]

Hmm, you could also "hook" the U chan over the top edge and use the tape...

Uhhh, No, scratch that, it would start them interfering with the drawer above...

 

[Phxphenom]

So what's the latest? Enquiring minds want to know....

 

[Mat Mobile]

I vote for U channels held by rivets.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Or epoxy.

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Got two drawers primed and the insides painted yesterday. We had a cold front and rain roll in so I'm not gonna try to paint until it goes. Meanwhile pulled a few more drawers off and prepped to go when the sun comes out again. BTW spraying hammered paint over a large flat area is tough. It is easy to see the spray pattern edge when a direction change is made. It's tough to say for sure, but yesterday was windy as all get out. A 'perfect' day to spray


On the handles I'd rather not drill more holes unless the adhesive method proves to be too weak for the task. I'll likely curse having to redo it. But it won't be a surprise for me

I saw epoxy mentioned up there. What brand/kind would be recommended if I used it?

I've got some 3m tape here already but will likely need ore for the total length I need. So I'll be purchasing something soon.

 

[Outlawmws]

I would NOT recommend Epoxy in this case. remember you are actually gluing to the paint, not the base material. My concerns would be as follows:

1. Will the epoxy react to the paint and change/dissolve it?
2. Does the paint have enough "stick" to stay put after whatever the epoxy does to it?

A bit of #2 concern with double back tape, but less likely to react to the paint as it is a less volatile a chemical reaction.

One concern with the double back tape. Hammered finish is not a real smooth finish, so I'd pick one that either has a thicker glue layer so it has a better shot at filling in, or a thin double back foam.


I'm about to leave for the weekend again so might not be able to respond to any questions till Monday

 

[rickairmedic]

I would say a 5 minute epoxy . With that said I think the 3M double sided ( automotive ) tape will do a good job . I do agree to put the tape on the inside of the drawer and hang the u channel over the front of the drawer . That way when you pull on the handle you are pulling on the drawer at the same time . You can always push on the drawer itself to close it .


Rick

 

[trbomax]

How much practice did it take to learn to roll the throttle and let the clutch out at the same time? That could be really spooky!

 

[GirlnAgarage]

You know guys, the discussion of will it won't it work about the Uchannel would have been helpful before I purchased it. I do recall mentioning the top two ideas were the wrench handles and the uchannel and nobody critiqued it.





turbomax, the clutch and throttle wasn't really the hard part. It was the shift to second that took me a bit to get down. After that it was a piece of cake. I did take my MSF course so that solidified my technique.

 

[rickairmedic]

Oh I am quite sure they will work . I honestly dont remember how Brent put them on his cabinets though . I may have to go back and reread that part . I am still sure the 3M double sided (automotive ) tape will work . Heck they use it to hold ground efects and spoilers on cars today . I do think mounting them with the one side of the channel inside of the drawer will work better as it will help when pulling the drawers open .

Rick

 

[GirlnAgarage]

Rick, not certain I can mount them over the front lip. Might have clearance problems if I do that. I'll put a piece over each drawer once I get the Uchannel cut to length and see.

I guess I have more confidence in the 3M tape. Having scraped moldings and badges off the sides of our trucks before, that is some tough stuff.

 

[rickairmedic]

Well it looks like Brent used 3M double sided tape as well and I am prety sure his drawers are not on ball bearing slides . Sooooooooo I stil think youll be fine .


Rick

 

[GirlnAgarage]

I'm gonna use tape. If it starts failing I'll drill holes after the Uchannel is stuck on there.


Could really use some warm weather right now. The sun is out but it's still pretty chilly outside. Hopefully it'll warm up enough I can lay down some more paint.


Edit blah! Just checked the forecast. Get into the low 70s this weekend. We'll stay in the 60s today. Well, if the sun stays out I can sun the pieces in the front drive. That will help. But no guarantees.

 

[rickairmedic]

Oh I am pretty sure myself it will work just fine . I will say if it does try to fail . I would drill holes through the drawers and handles from the backside and pop rivit them on from the inside of the drawer . That way the rivits will be sticking out under the handles and not into the drawers .

Rick