Replace zone valve?

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

I have a zone valve that needs replacing. It runs two rooms in basement. How do I go about making the pipes safe to work on? There's a water shut off before the valve but I know there will still be water after it... and hot at that probably! It's been stuck open for a while and keeps recirculating. Also, can I use regular silver solder?

 

[MEngineer]

Not knowing where you live I would assume that you are not cold enough to need heat yet.

I would recommend shutting down your heating system so that you can drain the lines associated with your valve, and then adequately bleed the lines after replacement.

Silver solder is just fine, though since it should not be tied to your potable water, leaded solder would also be acceptable.

Something to consider: most zone valves have replaceable motor heads. typically (in my experience) the motor unit will fail, but the valve will still be ok.

you may consider buying a replacement motor head, actuator, whatever they call it and checking to see if that resolves the issue. I would also check Supplyhouse.com for any of your plumbing needs as they have REALLY competitive pricing and are super helpful via customer service.

 

[sms1974]

What brand of valve is it? some valves have a motor that can be replaced without getting into cutting out piping

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

What brand of valve is it? some valves have a motor that can be replaced without getting into cutting out piping

Taco

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Not knowing where you live I would assume that you are not cold enough to need heat yet.

I would recommend shutting down your heating system so that you can drain the lines associated with your valve, and then adequately bleed the lines after replacement.

Silver solder is just fine, though since it should not be tied to your potable water, leaded solder would also be acceptable.

Something to consider: most zone valves have replaceable motor heads. typically (in my experience) the motor unit will fail, but the valve will still be ok.

you may consider buying a replacement motor head, actuator, whatever they call it and checking to see if that resolves the issue. I would also check Supplyhouse.com for any of your plumbing needs as they have REALLY competitive pricing and are super helpful via customer service.

I replaced the top portion, the head and it made no difference. Heat guy's told me I need a new bottom portion. Can you explain how to drain & bleed system or link? Thanks guys!

 

[Kaizen]

Pics of the setup will be helpful to tell you what to do.
With the tacos if you can manually operate it with the lever then it’s probably the head. You sure you didn’t leave the lever in the on position?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jim greengo]

Pics of the setup will be helpful to tell you what to do.
With the tacos if you can manually operate it with the lever then it’s probably the head. You sure you didn’t leave the lever in the on position?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What he said.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Here's the setup. If you need anything more specific please ask.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Pics of the setup will be helpful to tell you what to do.
With the tacos if you can manually operate it with the lever then it’s probably the head. You sure you didn’t leave the lever in the on position?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can pull the lever with pliers. The guy who was here to service the system said he sprayed wd40 in there and used a c clamp to free it but said it would probably freeze again. The other one has been fine and is easy to operate.

 

[Kaizen]

Hope all of that mess isn’t your handiwork? Pipe insulation doesn’t work well like that. Water heater electric and rest of those wires should be better secured.
Do you know how to solder?
Hard to tell if that zone has shut offs on both sides. If it had two then you could shut them off and cut. The remaining water would slowly gurgle out as the vacuum is released. A short space very quickly. If there is one shutoff then the whole zone then the whole zone back to boiler will drain. Not horrible you just have to wait for it and tilt the pipe till it’s dry. You can’t solder in a pipe with water leaking into it. Good news is it’s hot so you have awhile to figure this all out.
I’d cut back before the elbow on one side and then in the side of the zone. Easier to cut out and replace. Make sure you read taco instructions on removing head before heat. You can build it all on a bench then just have to solder two joints in the air.
Shut off water supply to boiler and all other shut offs on it. If you cannot isolate that loop with two shutoffs (beginning at boiler and ending as close as you can to boiler) it would be a good time to add one. It will help with both zones when you have to bleed it after.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Hope all of that mess isn’t your handiwork? Pipe insulation doesn’t work well like that. Water heater electric and rest of those wires should be better secured.
Do you know how to solder?
Hard to tell if that zone has shut offs on both sides. If it had two then you could shut them off and cut. The remaining water would slowly gurgle out as the vacuum is released. A short space very quickly. If there is one shutoff then the whole zone then the whole zone back to boiler will drain. Not horrible you just have to wait for it and tilt the pipe till it’s dry. You can’t solder in a pipe with water leaking into it. Good news is it’s hot so you have awhile to figure this all out.
I’d cut back before the elbow on one side and then in the side of the zone. Easier to cut out and replace. Make sure you read taco instructions on removing head before heat. You can build it all on a bench then just have to solder two joints in the air.
Shut off water supply to boiler and all other shut offs on it. If you cannot isolate that loop with two shutoffs (beginning at boiler and ending as close as you can to boiler) it would be a good time to add one. It will help with both zones when you have to bleed it after.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you for your explanation. No, NONE of that is my handy work besides the overhead light/ switch I installed and that was done properly lol. I've been going through the house getting it up to snuff, this room is a sump pump/utility/storage room. Last on the list. Yes, I know how to solder, I have sweat many pipes. That zone has a shut off before the valve and that's it, unless I'm missing something?

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Yes, the mold on the ceiling/subfloor is being taken care of. It's a chimney leak.

 

[Kaizen]

Thank you for your explanation. No, NONE of that is my handy work besides the overhead light/ switch I installed and that was done properly lol. I've been going through the house getting it up to snuff, this room is a sump pump/utility/storage room. Last on the list. Yes, I know how to solder, I have sweat many pipes. That zone has a shut off before the valve and that's it, unless I'm missing something?

Back on the boiler there are two yellow shut offs. Those might be the end of the loops. Above the circulator. Shut them all off and the water supply to it.
Below these yellow ones there is another pipe coming in as well. Put one there as well. I’m a little shut off crazy but makes life easy. If you can isolate that circulator then when it fails on a freezing day you can change it out in 20 min after grabbing one at hd.
When done you will put a hose on the drain. I put one on my main pipe to circulator. Then with the unit still off you just open the fill valve manually, open one zone valve manually, and the shutoff so city water pressure runs through and purges the air out of the zone. Then shut all of that off and repeat with other zones. Not much air will be in system after that.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

Back on the boiler there are two yellow shut offs. Those might be the end of the loops. Above the circulator. Shut them all off and the water supply to it.
Below these yellow ones there is another pipe coming in as well. Put one there as well. I’m a little shut off crazy but makes life easy. If you can isolate that circulator then when it fails on a freezing day you can change it out in 20 min after grabbing one at hd.
When done you will put a hose on the drain. I put one on my main pipe to circulator. Then with the unit still off you just open the fill valve manually, open one zone valve manually, and the shutoff so city water pressure runs through and purges the air out of the zone. Then shut all of that off and repeat with other zones. Not much air will be in system after that.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Does it make a difference if I'm on well water (for bleeding)? And if I don't get all the air out, it'll clunk, right? Should I shut off the water at the well tank?

 

[Kaizen]

here a pic of stuff you should know. shut off water as indicated. only difference for well is pressure. higher pressure gets air out better. esp on 2nd floor loops. should work fine to get most of the air out. system should get the rest out as it runs. right that tinging or banging is air.

 

[SuzukiGS750EZ]

here a pic of stuff you should know. shut off water as indicated. only difference for well is pressure. higher pressure gets air out better. esp on 2nd floor loops. should work fine to get most of the air out. system should get the rest out as it runs. right that tinging or banging is air.

Awesome. Thanks for doing that. Knew none of those!

 

[fitter30]

Where is the pump in relationship to expansion tank and is that green tank the for your boiler system.

 

[66cj225]

All those topics you've discussed and your heat looks like that? If you're going to drain it, now's the time to clean it up.