Replacing bench grinder on/off switch ??'s

[dimwittedmoose51]

Bought an old Cummins(likely not related to the diesel folks) 4 amp 6" bench grinder on ebay and it came damaged and the seller refunded my money which was nice of them. Main casualty was the on off switch which I wouldn't be able to find in a million years(try finding a Cummins grinder via google!). The tool rest adjustment bolts have 12mm heads on them, so it's likely this thing taint made in the US of A. Anyway, the switch appeared to be pretty heavy duty as my newbie electrician eyes could see, but I settled for a 20amp single throw double pole toggle switch from Philmore(Rockford IL), but have no idea how to set up the wiring, as the old switch had no numbers to match the new switch. The grinder has two red wires coming from the electric motor(or capacitor in this case) and a black and red wire(and a ground attached to the housing) coming from the plug. I've wired it one way which seemed to make sense and I flipped the switch and popped the GFI, so I'm going to get some help from the gurus. No, I didn't write down the wire positionings for the first try.

The new switch has no schematic, but does have the screw terminals numbered 1,3,4, and 6. The 1 and 4 are side by side in the middle of the housing and the 3/6 are off to one side. Since it''s obvious that there is a right and wrong way to wire this thing, can someone out there help me get the right wires on the correct terminals before I mess things up any further. Common sense would tell me that having the red/black wired to the 1/4 and the motor wires to the 3/6, but maybe red /black goes to 1/3 and the motor wires to the 4/6. Also wondering if the motor wires' position makes a difference in which direction the motor spins? Yeah, I'm a novice at electricity, but can follow clear and concise directions.

If the 4 numbers don't mean anything, then I guess I could run 12v dc through everything and see if a less hazardous voltage would be more experiment-friendly. Do that continuity thing and all with a 12v automotive bulb.

In the mean time, I'll fabricate an ABS plate for the new switch to be mounted on and make it look half way sanitary.

TIA

DM&FS

 

[Jagmandave]

If you have an ohm meter it'll be easy to tell which terminals connect and open when you toggle the switch.

But I would have just contacted Cummins and gotten a new switch from them - I have bought parts from them before and they're not hard at all to deal with. If the name plate with the serial number is still on the grinder, they can help you, and there probably will be an 800 number on it to call.....

 

[dimwittedmoose51]

This unit doesn't even say where it was made, has a cheap plastic cover on the bottom, and no 800 number. Ohm meter may be the option....

DM&FS

 

[Jagmandave]

It must have A label on it, otherwise how would you know it's a Cummins?

 

[Mgraves235]

The only Cummins tools I've seen are the ultra cheapo stuff sold by their traveling tool sale.
Their is no customer service number to call...

Post up some pics if you can, maybe that'll help.

 

[Norcal]

The only Cummins tools I've seen are the ultra cheapo stuff sold by their traveling tool sale.Their is no customer service number to call...

Post up some pics if you can, maybe that'll help.

That is close to what I would have said, they are just cheap ChiCom junk & if going to buy a grinder look for a decent one like,Baldor, or a Rockwell/Delta, there are a few others also.

 

[ACE0220]

I have two 6" bench grinders that I retrieved from a house clean out. Either of them have a light. Can you hook a light to the grinder using the wiring that is already there and put a separate on/off switch? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

 

[ACE0220]

Hello ALL. Sorry I never posted a greeting. My is Rick and I live in Western part Of Pa. Just getting started on trying to set-up a small work shop for myself.

 

[AntonLargiader]

Post some detail pics of the electrical parts (cord in, switch, etc) of the grinders. My Craftsman grinder has lights that just get turned on with the motor. You can always add a completely separate lighting circuit to the outside but that sounds like a clunky approach.

 

[gungatim]

I have probably the same grinder, 6", Taiwan, same era, no real name. the plastic switch broke decades ago.

I just used a regular toggle switch. made a plate from a Bush beer can doubled over to cover the big hole the plastic switch left. I do remember there were like 4 wires, 2&2 I think, so the switch was a DPST. I can pull it apart and snap a pic if you want. it's been retired since I got my block grinder but I can dig it back out.

 

[gungatim]

OK, here's a pic of how I did mine. SPST switch (simple on/off). red and white connected together, black and white to the switch. see attached pics. even though it's an old Taiwan grinder, it's surprisingly powerful and robust. I think I bought it around '85 or so and still going strong...hope that helps.

 

[gungatim]

I should add that the beer can plate was getting flimsy after several years and I forgot I made a new plate from some sheet metal. I think the original switch was black plastic push/pull, but it's been a while and my memory isn't what it used to be...

 

[D45]

Replacing a switch is super easy and common......whether its 2 wire or 4 wire

I picked up my replacement switch locally for under $5

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=352917