Replacing T8 Flourecents with LED Question

[Jsf721]

I have 4 each T8 fixtures (each fixture has 2 each 4 foot bulbs) in my 2 car garage. Currently running Fluorescent bulbs. Fixtures are evenly centered in each 1/4 of the garage. Garage is close to square.

Last week one fixture went dark, I purchased 2 replacement bulbs and they did not work.

I am assuming the ballast is shot. I would like to replace the bulbs with LED all around rather than replace the ballast. If this one went I am sure the others are not far behind.

Can someone clue me in on:

1. Type of LED Bulb, or Name that starts up instantly, even in the cold (unheated garage) that runs without the ballast.

2. What color temperature is cool white, Bright white the LEDs are measured in numbers example 6500K scale

3. Some of the bulbs say clear other frosted, what is the difference in the light output or distribution.

4. Wattage ranges from 18W-36W. I would like the garage to be on the brighter size but not blinding, suggestions would be welcome.


Can someone suggest a bulb, and post a link from either on Amazon or Homedepot or lowes that I can pick up that they have had good luck with?

Thanks

 

[American Locomotive]

Color temperatures for LEDs are the same as fluorescent tubes. The tube you have now should indicate the temperature.

"Cool White" fluorescent tubes are almost always 4100K, "Daylight" fluorescent bulbs are either 5000k or 6500k.

Get frosted or diffused bulbs, the clear lens bulbs emit harsh light.

 

[Bert_]

The color temp thing has gotten so confusing. Manufactures call the color temp of their products whatever suits them on a particular day. If you can, look for the color temp listed in "° kelvin". Cool white is somewhere around 4100°K, but you may also prefer 5000°K. 6500°K is what should be called "daylight".

You should definitely confine your search to name brand products since there is a lot of cheap junk out there that will be lucky to last over a year. Even name brands are beginning to offer LED replacement tubes with as low as a 35,000 hour life, which is not any longer than many fluorescent lamps.

Lamps that run directly off of 120V are labeled "line voltage" or "direct drive"/ ect. Note that rewiring your fixtures to have 120v run directly to the sockets WILL void the ul listing.

I have not seen anything above 18W for 4' lamps. 18W would be close to a good F32T8.

 

[bastage]

It may be easier to dump the fixtures all together. I used what looks at first glance like traditional florescent lights in my garage. But were actually these handy 4' LED light bar things that daisy chain.



Thats 2 pack's of the linked lights & about 2 hours of install (most of which was making sure stuff was straight & custom making 1 long extension for the lamp's above my workbench & tool box since I soldered in the extension). I still need to tidy up the wiring as it runs into the box's, both otherwise so far I am extremely impressed for the 140 bucks I put into this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUKSZE3/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[k-os]

I just replaced 44 bulbs with Hyperikon Single-End Power, 5000K LED Bulbs, Frosted Lens.

AMAZON LINK

Previous bulbs I had in one side of the garage (32 bulbs) were 4300K and these are definitely brigther. Each bulb comes with a tombstone to use for rewiring.

 

[ctgoodman]

I would also recommend the Hyperkon bulbs from Amazon. However if you are retrofitting an existing fluorescent fixture then the dual ended bulbs are easier since your tombstones are probably shunted which means you have to replace them if you use a single ended LED tube. I tend to like the 4000k color myself. I feel the 5000k starts to get a little blue. If you already have diffusers on your fixtures you could use clear but I would generally recommend the frosted ones as they have more even light output.

Here is what I used:
http://a.co/6SwEUAU

 

[dneiding]

I just replaced 44 bulbs with Hyperikon Single-End Power, 5000K LED Bulbs, Frosted Lens.

AMAZON LINK

Previous bulbs I had in one side of the garage (32 bulbs) were 4300K and these are definitely brigther. Each bulb comes with a tombstone to use for rewiring.

I would HIGHLY recommend Hyperikon. I bought a few hundred to do a complete replacement of fluorescents at our church. We had about eight bad bulbs (quit working within a few days) from the original lot. They replaced them quick with no questions asked. We had another two go out a month or so later and again, no hassle replacement.

That was a year and a half ago and no problems since.

 

[dogdog]

yea I just change to Hyperikon bulbs also no complains.... the standard 5000K dual end power ones.... simple to rewire ballasts-less 15 minutes per fixture.... excluding tool hunting times.

Keep in mind with Hyperikon , there are single end powered, dual end powered choices.... it's referring to the end of the tubes that power is connected to. Single end is both line and neutral on one end , the other end is a dud not used, dual end power is line power on one end and neutral on the other.

also there are color temp selections from 3k 4k 5k 6k..... higher number is more white....

all these are on the same page. select before you place the order.

 

[anuccite]

I just replaced 44 bulbs with Hyperikon Single-End Power, 5000K LED Bulbs, Frosted Lens.

AMAZON LINK

Previous bulbs I had in one side of the garage (32 bulbs) were 4300K and these are definitely brigther. Each bulb comes with a tombstone to use for rewiring.

Nice... I bought the same bulbs.... But didn't see the + Tombstone option! I bought mine seperate.... And I agree... They are pretty nice!

Since you mentioned you ballast might be shot..... this is most cost effective as welll

 

[jimreed2160]

Lotsa good tech info here. But I was at Costco last week and picked up some of their LED replacement bulbs for my main garage light. It was supplied by the builder 40 years ago and I changed the bulbs about 10 years ago.

So it took about ten minutes to make the switch and the new bulbs are awesome. They look brighter than the fluorescent bulbs but maybe that is because I cleaned the dirt and spider webs off the cover.

Anyway, this was a worthwhile upgrade. I encourage anyone on the fence to get moving. These new bulbs use less electricity and will not flicker in cold weather.

 

[dogdog]

The problem with a lot of reviews are that if you don't take out the ballast it doesn't have any saving from going LED. Mine was bad to start with and got feed up, So I went ballast-less.

 

[cybrdyke]

if you don't take out the ballast it doesn't have any saving from going LED

That's not accurate. Actually, you'll find that ballasted LED tubes are available in wattages slightly less than equivalent bypass LED tubes, even when you include the ballast losses.
CD

 

[Showkey]

That's not accurate. Actually, you'll find that ballasted LED tubes are available in wattages slightly less than equivalent bypass LED tubes, even when you include the ballast losses.
CD

Agree ^^^^^^^^^^^^

My DIY test Drop in LED vs T8 in closet pantry with very few variables:

Clarification and more info...
The T8 are about 6 months old.
They were on for 5 minutes when the LUX reading was taken.
The LED draw .34 amps at 124.2 volts.
T8 draw .60 amps at 124.2 volts
The LUX values are exactly the same as measure prior. The meter is 77" from the bulbs and 16" left of the center of the mixture. Moving the meter centered below the LED increased LUx to 672, T8 not measured in the center.

44% less power and 30 % more LUX output ..........when the price drops this might be a no brainier ....IF ......the life span is what they say ???????

April 2017 those same bulbs are $7-$9 depending location, rebates and number purchased and there other choices Sylvania $4-$6 at stores like Menards and HD.

Link to the entire post:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302649

 

[dogdog]

hmmm shouldn't it be compared with same LEDs ballasted and ballest-less ? I didn't have a ballest to perform this test, I think some one on the reviews did that with the watt meter. or some thing.

 

[Showkey]

hmmm shouldn't it be compared with same LEDs ballasted and ballest-less ? I didn't have a ballest to perform this test, I think some one on the reviews did that with the watt meter. or some thing.

Not when we are discussing........ "if you don't take out the ballast it doesn't have any saving from going LED

Wattmeter will just do the math for you ......volts x amps

There are a few other posts that mention the ballast with drop in bulbs does take a just few watts to operate.

 

[bob15]

I never tried the watt meter with and without the ballasts, but this is what Hyperikon says about leaving the ballasts connected with their dual ended powered tubes:

The brand new BallastCompatible® Hybrid 2.0. This tube is tested to ensure compatibility with over 100 existing T8 ballasts (T8 Only). In addition, its dual-purpose functionality will allow this tube to operate either with ballast bypassed (18 Watt) or with the ballast (22 Watt). Bypassing may be required in the case of ballast incompatibility. See below
If the tube turns on and off with consistent delays, or if it turns off completely after some use the tube is incompatible with the existing ballast. In this event simply bypass the ballast to restore full functionality of the tube and its lighting capabilities.
Consumes only 18W when bypassing the ballast and 22W when tube is left operating with ballast. Provides a stunning 2200 lumens whether operated with or without ballast.
Save 50% on your electricity bill! Replace 40W fluorescent tubes by 18W LED. Reduce re-lamp frequency with a lifetime of 45,000+ rated hours (21 years with 3 hours/day 365 days).
DLC-qualified and thus eligible for state and nationwide rebate programs. Also, for your guaranteed safety Hyperikon® products are UL-classified [E472253] to avoid electrical shock and fire hazard



https://hyperikon.com/product/hyperikon-t8t10t12-4ft-led-light-tube-dual-end-frosted-cover/

 

[bob15]

I forgot to mention, I replaced ten 8' T12HO lamps with the dual ended 4ft hyperikon tubes. I added the tombstones and went with 4 footers in case the 8' LED become a discontinued product in the future.....

I have no complaints with the LED 5000K tubes, even when it is 0°F. Had one bad tube out of the box and Hyperikon replaced it for free, with zero questions.

 

[cybrdyke]

Hi Bob,
Let me clarify my response to dogdog. I didn't realize he was talking about a specific lamp running either with or without a ballast. His comment was correct regarding that lamp. You posted the correct numbers for that lamp.
I was referring to the fact that there are ballasted LED tubes that can run more efficiently than a non-ballasted LED tube. Alot of people struggle with this notion because they dont really understand the role of ballasts or the role of drivers in a lighting system.
I'll give an example. (not really a fair example, because I'm comparing a professional-grade product to a homeowner-grade product, but you'll see what I mean).

Philips makes a 14w/2100 lumen ballast-ready tube. Total watts, including ballast, is 17w each (123.5 LPW).
Philips also makes a 16.5w/2500 lumen ballast-ready tube. Total watts, including ballast, is 20w each (125 LPW)
Hyperikon tube, listed above, is 18w/2200 lumens, no ballast (122 LPW).

All of them nearly the same, with a slight edge to the ballasted tubes. There's lots of other advantages to the ballasted tubes, but none of them are really relevant to a typical homeowner. That's why the Hyperikon is sold via Amazon and not through professional channels.
As for the dual source feature (being able to use it either with or without a ballast), that's kind of a gimmick thing. Might be relevant to some, but mostly a feature that just wont get used. Requires a socket change when switching from one system to the other.
CD