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Restong a 73 Mach 1 need some advise

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Rolling_Thunder

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Hello All, Im restoring a 73 Mach 1 and at this point Im replacing the entire suspension. I have the front suspension off and working on the rear now. To my amazement there was nothing but surace rust in the fender wells and shock towers. So Im cleaning it up as good as I can and need to know what I should do to ensure theirs no rust in the future. I was thinking some sort of rust inhibitor and under coating. Would like to see what you guys do when restoring a car. Im not doing a concours or rotis restore. Just clean it up, get it looking good and use it as a weekend car and some drag racing, Your advise is greatly appreciated! Thanks, John
 
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DoyleDee

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You could use a rust inhibiting Rustoleum black paint out of a can and roll/brush it on. As you say you want to drive the car. I haven't restored cars, but I figured I could give an opinion. Hopefully helpful.
 
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HD FLHX

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I use POR-15 and then use a good undercoating sprayed out of a gun not aerosol on every project I build.

Here's a couple pics of the inner quarters on a bronco I'm building right now.
2012-04-28_13-49-30_53.jpg

I just hit it with a wire wheel brush then used their metal prep before applying the paint using a 2" brush. As it dries it will level out and look as if it were sprayed from a gun
2012-05-16_14-49-16_675.jpg

2012-04-28_15-23-28_657.jpg

2012-04-30_07-51-23_384.jpg
 
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Cobra6

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One of the worst places on those is the trunk - they leak and the panels around the taillights get really rusty - I would try to replace the trunk lid gasket and keep that from leaking if possible.
 
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bgarrett

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Cobra6 said:
One of the worst places on those is the trunk - they leak and the panels around the taillights get really rusty - I would try to replace the trunk lid gasket and keep that from leaking if possible.
Click to expand...

a Bronco has a trunk?
 
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ford88

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Clean it up real good prime and use bed-liner you will never have to worry about it again.On my 66 fairlane I sandblasted it primed with epoxy and painted with eastwood chassis black.
 
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Rolling_Thunder

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HD FLHX said:
I use POR-15 and then use a good undercoating sprayed out of a gun not aerosol on every project I build.

Here's a couple pics of the inner quarters on a bronco I'm building right now.
2012-04-28_13-49-30_53.jpg

I just hit it with a wire wheel brush then used their metal prep before applying the paint using a 2" brush. As it dries it will level out and look as if it were sprayed from a gun
2012-05-16_14-49-16_675.jpg

2012-04-28_15-23-28_657.jpg

2012-04-30_07-51-23_384.jpg
Click to expand...

Nice job on the bronco! I did some reading after posting the question !! And Read about rust converters. So that's what Im gonna go with! Thanls
 
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Rolling_Thunder

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Cobra6 said:
One of the worst places on those is the trunk - they leak and the panels around the taillights get really rusty - I would try to replace the trunk lid gasket and keep that from leaking if possible.
Click to expand...

Yep Ive already checked and their fine! There will be all new weather stripping going on the car!
 
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Rolling_Thunder

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ambenz said:
Por 15, hands down...don't even think of using anything else.
Here is a very interesting thread you might want to look over....
http://www.grabberorange.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11517
It's a 73 also...found some real issues with this ride....
Click to expand...

Man that took a while to read but doesnt concern me. I know what I want to do with the car and created a spradsheet with what I want to do, prioritized them and put all parts required to do so with prices and Vendors where to get them from if I havent already ordered them. My first is to redo the entire suspension, parts are ordered and should all be here by end of week! Next will be the body I'll probably take care of any rust areas that require replacing and leave the rest to a professional. Except for a few spots on the right door there is no rust I can see and I've been over every inch of the car now! The motor is new the ****** is new the exhaust is new... I covered all my bases to this point. Just got finished pulling the rear out about an hour ago... Lots of work but Im enjoying it!!
 
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spongerich

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73 Mach 1's are complete and utter death traps.

If you care at all about your family, you shouldn't even think about driving that car even one mile. I'll come down there and remove it safely from your garage. Your wife and kids will thank me.
 
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sr71

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Por 15 but ....do not get on your skin and do not spray it without a pro style ventilated suit/hood.
 
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Rolling_Thunder

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spongerich said:
73 Mach 1's are complete and utter death traps.

If you care at all about your family, you shouldn't even think about driving that car even one mile. I'll come down there and remove it safely from your garage. Your wife and kids will thank me.
Click to expand...

Dang didnt even realize that!! I'll PM you my address Oh and bring a pullback wrecker the only thing under it right now is the dual exhaust and 4 jack stands!!

I thank you, My family thanks you!! :lol_hitti
 
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pop pop

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I understand POR 15 is good but spendy. If you are in MD and use it as you say, any good promer and enamel topcoat will likely do what you need. Afterward I'd spray a heavy coat of something like QuakerCoat undercoat. That is how I did the last 65 GT Mustang I did. I did sandblast to grey first.
 
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Brian_B_

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My truck frame, suspension, etc..is coated with eastwood's rust encapsulator. Its been on there since before I bought it in 96...so far it still looks good.
 
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ROB_IN_MN

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Another vote for POR-15. It's one of the epoxy primers that are meant to chemically bond with rust to stop it, so it actually was intended to be painted on rusty surfaces. Make sure your surface has a little grit to it if you use POR 15.
 
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buening

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POR15 works great but is very finicky with adhesion and must be topcoated if it is exposed to UV rays. I've used Zero Rust with excellent results and topcoats much easier and doesn't need the excessive prep as required with POR15. The only downside with ZeroRust is it takes awhile for it to fully cure. If you go with multiple thin coats, it'll harden quicker.
 
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NUTTSGT

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Another POR15 fan here. I'll second the gloves (nitrile) and add safety glasses.


I'll throw out this too. DO NOT OPEN the conventionally. Drill two small holes in the bottom, small enough for a couple of sheetmetal screws, or use two self tapping screws. Pour out what you need and put the screws back in, a quick flip right side up and then store it upside down.


05192011005.jpg
 
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ROB_IN_MN

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Well, you don't quite need to go to all that trouble, but now that you mentioned it, I forgot one thing with POR-15.

Never, Never put the lid back on directly. It will seal the lid to the can and you'll never get it off again. I always put a little bit of plastic - Reynold's wrap, a zip loc bag, etc between the lid and the can.

Then you can get it open again.
 
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Rolling_Thunder

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HoosierBuddy said:
Hey Rolling Thunder...good to hear from another vintage mustang enthusiast.

FYI... http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/

Anything you need to know about 1964 1/2 to 1973 Mustangs.

Phil
Click to expand...

Hey Phil! I'll let you know if I have any questions. Ive already got it up on jacks and the the entire suspension off of it. Im replacing everything. Also pulled the axles and putting in new axle brgs and seals. Lots of work but lots of fun!

I did some quick browsing on the forum you posted looks pretty good and informative I'll sign up for it thanks!!! John
 
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Rolling_Thunder

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Well after alot of thinkin about it I decided that considering that the car will be garage kept and not driven in the rain unless I get caught in it I went with a rust converter called "Rust Killer" from Tractor Supply Co. Its alot cheaper and should suffice for what the car will be exposed to.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/rust-kutter-rust-prevention-and-control-1-gal--3441336


And while I was at TSC I also bought a cheap parts washer. Just a note for you guys out there after talking to the Customer Service Dept of the washer they say to ONLY use Water Based Solvents in it like Simple Green or Purple Power. They said that the normal chemical solvents will destroy the pump. Is this what others have found? I did some research and found the Chemical Solvent Washers start at $400 and go up from there! I dont need nothing that fancy so I'll be taking back the PSC1000 that I orginally bought for it and buying the Purple Power. We'll see how good it does on 39 years of dirt and grime!!!
 
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James E

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I have heard good things about Por 15 but it's expensive and somethimes there are adhesion issues. It's hard, but it can flake off.

I know a really good body man that swears by a similar product made by Master Series (sorry, I don't have any, so you'll have to Google it). He says if you like Por 15, you'll absolutely love Master Series. He specializes in Mustangs, by the way. He also happens to be in Maryland so you should be able to get the stuff.

Here's his website, by the way, in case anybody wants to ask him about the stuff.

http://petesponies.info/
 
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Beaumont67

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St. Thomas, Ontario
Below is a thread on parts washer fluid, I have a used commercial tank...and will be buying the PSC1000.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146811
Originally Posted by Shadowdog500
I use PSC1000 from tractor supply. It is really good stuff! This stuff hasn't evaporated away and Ive been using it for about a year and a half. The grime seems to settle to the bottom after a few days so Ive been using the same fluid since Oct 2010 with no noticeable evaporation.

Don't put a water based cleaner (like simple greene) in a metal parts tank unless you want your paint peeled off and tank rusting out.

Chris

that seems pretty reasonable at $8/gal
 
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Beaumont67

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I am not a fan of POR15, because best adhesion is painting over rust only / and I like to sand blast rust away first...never saw the point in sealing rust in, a restoration project.
So I now use 1 Quart LOCTITE 754 Extend Rust Treatment - followed by epoxy prime and urethane high build primer, before topcoating with automotive urethane paint.
- I know it says "Surface rust must be present"...but I have had good results on clean metal, hit with an 80 grit D/A or blasted
- infinite shelf life & much cheaper...best part (unlike POR15)

http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=62589
Brush-on liquid kills old rust and prevents new rust. Eliminates scraping and sand blasting. Surface rust must be present. Not for new, clean surfaces. Use on pipes, valves, fittings, storage tanks, guard rails, floor gratings, ductwork, snow removal equipment, and posts. One-step rust treatment destroys old rust and prevents new rust. Rust is converted to a durable stable base black protective coating.
 
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472scout

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The DIY crowd loves POR15. Good product, but it does have it's drawbacks. Chassis saver is a very similar if not better product for much less. Most high end shops will use an epoxy primer from PPG, dupont, etc. For my money I would use something like DP4000, followed up with a top sealer and undercoating where necessary.
 
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Rolling_Thunder

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Beaumont67 said:
Below is a thread on parts washer fluid, I have a used commercial tank...and will be buying the PSC1000.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=146811
Originally Posted by Shadowdog500
I use PSC1000 from tractor supply. It is really good stuff! This stuff hasn't evaporated away and Ive been using it for about a year and a half. The grime seems to settle to the bottom after a few days so Ive been using the same fluid since Oct 2010 with no noticeable evaporation.

Don't put a water based cleaner (like simple greene) in a metal parts tank unless you want your paint peeled off and tank rusting out.

Chris

that seems pretty reasonable at $8/gal
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link to the other thread! Im going to use the PSC and if it eats my pump I'll just come up with a better pump for it!!:rocker:
 
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