dpljmurphy
Well-known member
Thanks for the reply Chris, that's been known to happen! enjoy the rest of your Sunday. David
Above 1200 Sq/FT Restored 1930's Auto Shop
- Thread starter BB767
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Framing Details
Here's some additional framing details.
I have 10' (3 m) wide garage door openings so we used microlams for headers. Microlams (which is spelled several different ways) are engineered wood that is similar to plywood. Multi layers of alternating grain of thin wood glued up to provide great strength and stability over wide spans.
These are 1 7/8" (4.7 cm) thick and were doubled up over the door openings resulting...
...in a header 3 3/4" (9.5 cm) thick. Very sturdy and stable.
This is a man doorway to the garage this is located on the north-west corner of the house. In the winter, that's the direction that the prevailing wind and cold weather comes from. So I designed an airlock for that doorway to minimize heat loss through it. Additionally by moving the doorway outward a few feet from the main wall, it adds stability to the long wall by the overhead garage doors and adds visual interest. This corner section will be finished all in stone.
This is the airlock inside the garage. Now you can see the space which will have 2 doors. One outside, seen in the preceding photograph, and this one, inside the garage. In cold, windy weather never have both doors open at the same time and it minimizes heat loss. It adds a buffer to that exterior door opening. This is not a load bearing wall so 2 X 4's were used for the header.
Several window and door header sections were assembled before the main house walls are framed which will greatly speed that process up. Exterior walls are 2 X 6's.
A couple of things here to point out. Note the truss where it meets the concrete wall corner, red arrow and the double wall above the stairway, yellow arrow.
That truss was designed knowing we were going to install those wall studs by the stairway flat to the wall and by golly it was built exactly right. The truss is flush with that wall.
The double wall above the stair...
...was how I choose to eliminate a narrow ledge by the stairway.
The basement walls are 12" wide and the garage wall is only 6" wide which would result in a 6" wide ledge. To eliminate it I chose to build a double wall.
Once that wall was built we couldn't insulate those boxed in areas so it was insulated prior to installing the OSB sub-floor section seen on the bottom right. The sub-floor was glued and then nailed into place.
Now the wall by the stairs...
...goes straight up with no nuisance ledge to bother with.
We are approximately 4 weeks into the project thus far and I'm quite happy with what we have created.
We did get the fireplace foundation completed yesterday and I'll update that shortly.
Tomorrow the steel I beams are suppose to be delivered so we'll get those installed and then the rest of the floor trusses can be installed. There should be some rapid, visual progress from this point forward. Weather has been cooperating which has been very helpful.
Thanks again everyone for following along. Your input, questions and suggestions are appreciated.
Thomas
Here's some additional framing details.
I have 10' (3 m) wide garage door openings so we used microlams for headers. Microlams (which is spelled several different ways) are engineered wood that is similar to plywood. Multi layers of alternating grain of thin wood glued up to provide great strength and stability over wide spans.
These are 1 7/8" (4.7 cm) thick and were doubled up over the door openings resulting...
...in a header 3 3/4" (9.5 cm) thick. Very sturdy and stable.
This is a man doorway to the garage this is located on the north-west corner of the house. In the winter, that's the direction that the prevailing wind and cold weather comes from. So I designed an airlock for that doorway to minimize heat loss through it. Additionally by moving the doorway outward a few feet from the main wall, it adds stability to the long wall by the overhead garage doors and adds visual interest. This corner section will be finished all in stone.
This is the airlock inside the garage. Now you can see the space which will have 2 doors. One outside, seen in the preceding photograph, and this one, inside the garage. In cold, windy weather never have both doors open at the same time and it minimizes heat loss. It adds a buffer to that exterior door opening. This is not a load bearing wall so 2 X 4's were used for the header.
Several window and door header sections were assembled before the main house walls are framed which will greatly speed that process up. Exterior walls are 2 X 6's.
A couple of things here to point out. Note the truss where it meets the concrete wall corner, red arrow and the double wall above the stairway, yellow arrow.
That truss was designed knowing we were going to install those wall studs by the stairway flat to the wall and by golly it was built exactly right. The truss is flush with that wall.
The double wall above the stair...
...was how I choose to eliminate a narrow ledge by the stairway.
The basement walls are 12" wide and the garage wall is only 6" wide which would result in a 6" wide ledge. To eliminate it I chose to build a double wall.
Once that wall was built we couldn't insulate those boxed in areas so it was insulated prior to installing the OSB sub-floor section seen on the bottom right. The sub-floor was glued and then nailed into place.
Now the wall by the stairs...
...goes straight up with no nuisance ledge to bother with.
We are approximately 4 weeks into the project thus far and I'm quite happy with what we have created.
We did get the fireplace foundation completed yesterday and I'll update that shortly.
Tomorrow the steel I beams are suppose to be delivered so we'll get those installed and then the rest of the floor trusses can be installed. There should be some rapid, visual progress from this point forward. Weather has been cooperating which has been very helpful.
Thanks again everyone for following along. Your input, questions and suggestions are appreciated.
Thomas
Spareparts
Well-known member
You ever just shut your brain off and get some well deserved rest????? never mine I know the answer. LOL Your new home is AWESOME, thanks for sharing.
Thomas,
This house build is one of the most interesting things I think I've ever seen. So glad you are posting the house build updates. It does seem that you've thought about absolutely every little detail. I'm taking notes so that someday, when I build my retirement home, I won't have to try and remember all of this. I'll just have to remember where I put the notes!!! LOL!
Thanks so much for taking your free time to keep us all updated here in the vortex!
Jeff
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This house build is one of the most interesting things I think I've ever seen. So glad you are posting the house build updates. It does seem that you've thought about absolutely every little detail. I'm taking notes so that someday, when I build my retirement home, I won't have to try and remember all of this. I'll just have to remember where I put the notes!!! LOL!
Thanks so much for taking your free time to keep us all updated here in the vortex!
Jeff
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Boosted1
Well-known member
Re: Framing Details
Looking good.
Q about the garage door microlams. I thought the support 2x6 were usually doubled up so they are supported by more than just 1.5" on each end?
Looking good.
Q about the garage door microlams. I thought the support 2x6 were usually doubled up so they are supported by more than just 1.5" on each end?
twizzle
Member
Just got here loved every page what a read even though it took me 10 times as long as everybody as me reading is bad
Grizz1963
Well-known member
I am soooo jealous of your process.
Building and construction is one of my great loves.
This thread is such a fix for me.
Building and construction is one of my great loves.
This thread is such a fix for me.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Without a ledge next to the basement stairs, where are you going to put all the junk that normally accumulates there?
Re: Framing Details
Right you are.
It hasn't arrived yet but it will be installed as indicated by the arrow. It will extend past the bottom plate...
...and bare on the concrete itself. I'm using a material that's man-made (can't find the name of it right now) that is rot-proof. If you were to use regular wood here, moisture would wick through the end grain and eventually create a problem. Even treated lumber would degrade over time. What I'm using is made for high moisture areas like this and will never rot on me. I'll post more about it once it's installed.
Then, as you pointed out, I'll have plenty of load bearing surface and material for the microlam. Sharpe eye Boosted1.
Thomas
Right you are.
It hasn't arrived yet but it will be installed as indicated by the arrow. It will extend past the bottom plate...
...and bare on the concrete itself. I'm using a material that's man-made (can't find the name of it right now) that is rot-proof. If you were to use regular wood here, moisture would wick through the end grain and eventually create a problem. Even treated lumber would degrade over time. What I'm using is made for high moisture areas like this and will never rot on me. I'll post more about it once it's installed.
Then, as you pointed out, I'll have plenty of load bearing surface and material for the microlam. Sharpe eye Boosted1.
Thomas
Many thanks Spareparts. When you're doing a big project like this it is hard to stop thinking about various aspects of it I'll admit. Poor Chris, I haven't been much of a conversationalist lately. I'm pretty focused but it's a good thing. I'm slowly working out details as we progress.
Oh I haven't thought of every detail Jeff but thanks for the vote of confidence. For any of you who have built a home, you know what an enormous undertaking it is. Due to some personalized details in this structure I need to be constantly aware of how to harmonize everything so it's not a Hodge-podge. So far so good.
twizzle;;5742442 said:
A hearty welcome twizzle to our band of brothers and a few sisters here. No worries about taking your time to read through all of the material. There's a lot here to digest, especially considering Chris and the Big Test coming one of these days.
Grizz from your thread I know construction is near and dear to your heart. You've been here year after year for many years now. Nice to have you drop in on occasion.
Without a ledge next to the basement stairs, where are you going to put all the junk that normally accumulates there?
Say Stuart, I hadn't thought of that. Junk, dust and cobwebs. Where would be a good place for them now that I've eliminated that ledge??
Boy, I didn't think that one through very well did I? Thomas
Fireplace Foundation
Last Saturday the fireplace foundation was completed...
... and today the steel I beams arrived ...
...and they are now all in place...
...but you're going to have to wait for details........Honestly I'm just Too Pooped To Post - TPTP.
To be continued. Thanks so much everyone.
TPTP Thomas
Last Saturday the fireplace foundation was completed...
... and today the steel I beams arrived ...
...and they are now all in place...
...but you're going to have to wait for details........Honestly I'm just Too Pooped To Post - TPTP.
To be continued. Thanks so much everyone.
TPTP Thomas
PLOWJEEP
Well-known member
Thomas, I haven't herd if you are going with plaster or drywall. If you are using drywall you might want to consider 5/8" over the standard 1/2" or lightweight drywall. The difference is unbelievable. Your drywall contractor might try and talk you out of using it, because it is so heavy. In terms of fire rating, sound transmission and durability it is far superior to lightweight drywall. Thanks for sharing , Brian
A35Plt
Active member
Hello Thomas
Could you please share with us what references and manuals you use to design your home?
Could you please share with us what references and manuals you use to design your home?
red
Well-known member
Couldn't agree more, or at the least use the 5/8" on the ceiling.
Ends up being a far better/flatter ceiling. Down side is length
BTW 12 footer weights in at a hundred pounds.
W_A_Watson_II
Well-known member
Fireplace Foundation Construction
Rain made for bit shorter day so I'll try to catch up a little bit. Thanks for your understanding.
Here's how the fireplace foundation was constructed. Since this is an old school, full masonry fireplace it needs a proper foundation to support the great weight of the masonry mass. You're stacking block, bricks and stone on top of one another all the way to the top of the chimney. Literary tons and tons of material.
When the basement was excavated the area where the fireplace would be located was dug lower than the basement floor to provide thicker concrete in this area. This would be the footing for the fireplace. It's also a larger dimension than what the eventual fireplace will be.
This is the fireplace footing poured. Next the basement floor will be poured over this so the concrete in the area is very robust.
In preparation for laying the block, the actual footprint of the fireplace was laid out, visqueen and roofing tar paper placed on the floor next to it to protect the finished floor and aid in clean up later. The visqueen was removed from where the block would rest on the concrete.
Wall ties were installed...
...on the wall using tapcons. Note the visqeen has been removed in the area he is standing.
Mortar was mixed and poured into this tub.
The tub was then placed on a pallet and lowered with straps into the basement.
The front corners were established and a string was strung between them.
Every row was checked for plumb and level and the string moved up to keep each row straight. Note the wall ties on the wall.
In the spot just below where the ash pit clean out door will be installed...
...I placed a brand new, shiny 2016 Lincoln penny. Unfortunately it was so shinny it reflected so much you can't see the face in the photograph. ....but it's there.
The corners were built up first.
This is where the ash clean out door will be installed, just above my penny. The ash door was damaged in shipping so I'm getting a replacement. It'll be installed at a later time after.........wait for it......... it's powder coated. They're made of cast iron and rust easily.
That half block was used as a...
...filler block that was left a little proud to aid in it's removal.
After the foundation was done, the mortar joint was cut and the half block was removed.
Here's a better look at the wall ties.
These are bent over and incorporated in the joint. They aid in keeping the block tight to the wall and prevent a crack from developing between the block and the wall. Lastly the cores of the block were filled with mortar up to the top to aid in stability and strength.
W_A_Watson_II asked if I changed the height of the blocks and I did. This is a problem you run into sometimes when two parties are involved doing different aspects of the same project. Chuck is laying all the block, brick and stone in the house and Steve is building the hearth, the external air combustion, the Rumford firebox and smoke shelf. A call was placed to Steve to confirm the height of the block while we were building it and he misunderstood that my floor trusses don't sit on top of the bottom plate as most do, rather they hang from it. Long and short, it was 1 row too high. Next day the top mortar joints were cut and the top row removed. Not a big deal.
So that's probably way too much information but that's how the fireplace foundation was constructed.
Thomas
Rain made for bit shorter day so I'll try to catch up a little bit. Thanks for your understanding.
Here's how the fireplace foundation was constructed. Since this is an old school, full masonry fireplace it needs a proper foundation to support the great weight of the masonry mass. You're stacking block, bricks and stone on top of one another all the way to the top of the chimney. Literary tons and tons of material.
When the basement was excavated the area where the fireplace would be located was dug lower than the basement floor to provide thicker concrete in this area. This would be the footing for the fireplace. It's also a larger dimension than what the eventual fireplace will be.
This is the fireplace footing poured. Next the basement floor will be poured over this so the concrete in the area is very robust.
In preparation for laying the block, the actual footprint of the fireplace was laid out, visqueen and roofing tar paper placed on the floor next to it to protect the finished floor and aid in clean up later. The visqueen was removed from where the block would rest on the concrete.
Wall ties were installed...
...on the wall using tapcons. Note the visqeen has been removed in the area he is standing.
Mortar was mixed and poured into this tub.
The tub was then placed on a pallet and lowered with straps into the basement.
The front corners were established and a string was strung between them.
Every row was checked for plumb and level and the string moved up to keep each row straight. Note the wall ties on the wall.
In the spot just below where the ash pit clean out door will be installed...
...I placed a brand new, shiny 2016 Lincoln penny. Unfortunately it was so shinny it reflected so much you can't see the face in the photograph.
....but it's there.
The corners were built up first.
This is where the ash clean out door will be installed, just above my penny. The ash door was damaged in shipping so I'm getting a replacement. It'll be installed at a later time after.........wait for it......... it's powder coated.
They're made of cast iron and rust easily.
That half block was used as a...
...filler block that was left a little proud to aid in it's removal.
After the foundation was done, the mortar joint was cut and the half block was removed.
Here's a better look at the wall ties.
These are bent over and incorporated in the joint. They aid in keeping the block tight to the wall and prevent a crack from developing between the block and the wall. Lastly the cores of the block were filled with mortar up to the top to aid in stability and strength.
W_A_Watson_II asked if I changed the height of the blocks and I did. This is a problem you run into sometimes when two parties are involved doing different aspects of the same project. Chuck is laying all the block, brick and stone in the house and Steve is building the hearth, the external air combustion, the Rumford firebox and smoke shelf. A call was placed to Steve to confirm the height of the block while we were building it and he misunderstood that my floor trusses don't sit on top of the bottom plate as most do, rather they hang from it. Long and short, it was 1 row too high. Next day the top mortar joints were cut and the top row removed. Not a big deal.
So that's probably way too much information but that's how the fireplace foundation was constructed.
Thomas
Last edited:
csp
Well-known member
The ones with a slit in the middle of one side are corner blocks. The opposing face is smooth.
csp got this one for you charlief1. These types of block are not fireplace specific, they're used everywhere.
Corner block can also be sawed in half for 1/2 blocks...
...with a gas powered saw.
The yellow arrows point to 1/2 block, red to stretcher and purple to corner block. Notice the mortar on the floor at the base of the block. That's why we put down visqueen and tar paper. it made clean up afterward much easier.
Thomas
I've been planning on using 1/2" drywall for the walls and 5/8" for the ceilings. Plastered walls around here is a dead art. The last home I helped build was in 1973. It had plaster walls and it was a real rarity. There was really only 1 fellow left in town back then who could plaster it. I don't think there's anybody left now who could do a whole house.
Thomas
Well that's a tough one A35Plt. I didn't refer to any specific manuals as such. Over the years I've been thinking about key features that Chris and I wanted in a home. I would talk with various tradesman as to the pros and cons of various features that I thought I'd like. Some were impracticable and some cost prohibitive.
Once I had the basic design I spent several months with an architect refining the design to make it a structure that could actually be built. For example he's the one who came up with engineering figures for foundation walls to support a 28' (8.5 m) wide room with a 18' (5.4 m) tall cathedral ceiling using a modified scissor truss with no visible bracing seen on the interior.
We in turn would work with various companies like J.B. Esker for a final design on construction details for the basement or we worked with the truss company to develop the floor truss system. It all had to be engineered to work together.
I don't know if that's helpful to you or not. This house project is the accumulation of my life experience, soaking in from what I've read, done and seen throughout my life.
Thomas
PLOWJEEP
Well-known member
In the end, all of research and planing will pay off. You are going to have a well built home that will still be there in a hundred years. So many of the homes built today start to have problems in just a few years after they are they are finished. For as far as we have come, we have lost a lot of skills along the way.
Most customers want instant gratification and don't want to make any sacrifices that it take to achieve what you and Chris are going have. I am happy for both of you. Thanks again for sharing you journey, Brian
Most customers want instant gratification and don't want to make any sacrifices that it take to achieve what you and Chris are going have. I am happy for both of you. Thanks again for sharing you journey, Brian
gasgas17
Well-known member
We call those aspenite palaces. All kinds of square footage with zero quality.
Gingger22pm
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2013
- Messages
- 38
"For as far as we have come, we have lost a lot of skills along the way."
Amen to that, well said PLOWJEEP.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Amen to that, well said PLOWJEEP.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know a plasterer who could do the job it you are interested. I am in Monticello Il, so just around the corner.
Personally, I would stick with the drywall, but I don't want you to feel limited.
Hi there KST1 and thanks for that information. Do you happen to know if residential homes are being built utilizing plaster? Plaster repairs to existing homes with plaster I understand, but new construction?
Monticello is a great little town, one of my favorites. I did my student teaching at the high school there many, many, many years ago. You can still get real gas there at the FS station with no ethanol.
Thomas
Got Steel?
We do!
Early Monday morning the steel I beams and posts showed up.
Getting them into the basement was easy with the GEHL...
..and then we used a hand crane to pick them up and wheel them...
...into position. BTW, besides myself, this is the primary house construction crew, Trey on the left (Ray's son), Jim in the center- red shirt and Ray operating the hand crane. The 4 of us comprise the construction crew. There are are subcontractors for specialized work- concrete, plumber, electrician, brick mason, HVAC, roofing and drywall. We'll be with the project all the way through to completion.
With the beam lifted into position in the beam pocket, the bottom flange was bolted on and the concrete anchors installed using a hammer drill.
2 X 4's were used as temporary supports to position and stabilize the posts. There were small holes drilled in the beam that we could nail to.
After checking for plumb, the posts were secured with bolts to the floor, again using concrete anchors. Remember I have radiant heat tubes in the floor, so drilling holes might be a little risky?
Look at the square cutouts in the Styrofoam before the floor was poured. Those are the places where the posts will be positioned. You'll note there are no tubing lines anywhere near those spots. We didn't want to take a chance we'd hit a heat tube when we drilled post anchors, so we made sure no heat lines were in those places.
And as a backup to make sure we didn't hit a heat tube, we used a drill stop on the drill to prevent the drill bit from going too deep, keeping the drill bit at least 1" above any stray heat tubes. Can't be to careful!!
The various beams were bolted together.
Now the house back bone is in place, we can start installing the wood trusses. Look for more coming this way.
Thomas
We do!
Early Monday morning the steel I beams and posts showed up.
Getting them into the basement was easy with the GEHL...
..and then we used a hand crane to pick them up and wheel them...
...into position. BTW, besides myself, this is the primary house construction crew, Trey on the left (Ray's son), Jim in the center- red shirt and Ray operating the hand crane. The 4 of us comprise the construction crew. There are are subcontractors for specialized work- concrete, plumber, electrician, brick mason, HVAC, roofing and drywall. We'll be with the project all the way through to completion.
With the beam lifted into position in the beam pocket, the bottom flange was bolted on and the concrete anchors installed using a hammer drill.
2 X 4's were used as temporary supports to position and stabilize the posts. There were small holes drilled in the beam that we could nail to.
After checking for plumb, the posts were secured with bolts to the floor, again using concrete anchors. Remember I have radiant heat tubes in the floor, so drilling holes might be a little risky?
Look at the square cutouts in the Styrofoam before the floor was poured. Those are the places where the posts will be positioned. You'll note there are no tubing lines anywhere near those spots. We didn't want to take a chance we'd hit a heat tube when we drilled post anchors, so we made sure no heat lines were in those places.
And as a backup to make sure we didn't hit a heat tube, we used a drill stop on the drill to prevent the drill bit from going too deep, keeping the drill bit at least 1" above any stray heat tubes. Can't be to careful!!
The various beams were bolted together.
Now the house back bone is in place, we can start installing the wood trusses. Look for more coming this way.
Thomas
Hi Thomas,
You are correct as far as I know; no new construction homes with plaster. The plasterer I know has done large facility renovations and large, old, home repairs and renovations though, so I'm sure he is capable of it. Again, I think drywall is the way to go both on price point, and timeliness. There is a reason it's not used much in new builds anymore.
Best of luck on the build, I'll have to cruise by sometime and have a gander from the road.
-Derek
You are correct as far as I know; no new construction homes with plaster. The plasterer I know has done large facility renovations and large, old, home repairs and renovations though, so I'm sure he is capable of it. Again, I think drywall is the way to go both on price point, and timeliness. There is a reason it's not used much in new builds anymore.
Best of luck on the build, I'll have to cruise by sometime and have a gander from the road.
-Derek
stillp
Well-known member
I'm amazed at the speed of this build. I'm sure that's largely from the details having been worked out before the start. Hope the weather holds for you.
Pete
Pete
Pete there's more done than you know.
I'm a couple of days...
...behind posting what's already been done....
...and I'm afraid you'll have to wait till tomorrow for more details 'cause once again, I'm TPTP.
Tired Thomas
1949 caddyman
Well-known member
That type of floor truss with the 2x4 on the flat gives you room for a much better nailing schedule, very nice!
BBChevro
Well-known member
Hey Thomas, great progress - the more I see it, the more I like it.
HCNDM
Well-known member
Hi Thomas,
Exceptional attention to detail and build quality.
Here in the Netherlands we build mostly in brick and very little in wood.
The argument often being brick is stronger. I think your build puts that myth to rest.
Your house will last longer than most they build here.
Following avidly,
Niels
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Exceptional attention to detail and build quality.
Here in the Netherlands we build mostly in brick and very little in wood.
The argument often being brick is stronger. I think your build puts that myth to rest.
Your house will last longer than most they build here.
Following avidly,
Niels
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Boosted1
Well-known member
Looking good. Those trusses are nice.
Those sheets of plywood make it easy to get a sense of scale, which is larger than it has looked thus far.
Those sheets of plywood make it easy to get a sense of scale, which is larger than it has looked thus far.
realvc
Well-known member
Hello Thomas
Everything is looking mighty fine and the progress is great.
Thanks for taking time to post your home build
The "hand crane" we called a Hy Lift mainly because the first one we had was the Hy Lift brand name so the others that came after it no matter who the mfg. were all called Hy Lift.
Thanks again
Vince
Everything is looking mighty fine and the progress is great.
Thanks for taking time to post your home build
The "hand crane" we called a Hy Lift mainly because the first one we had was the Hy Lift brand name so the others that came after it no matter who the mfg. were all called Hy Lift.
Thanks again
Vince
merr6267
Well-known member
With bated-breath, I wait for the next post.
And a LOT more construction adhesive! Squeaks won't stand a chance!
Grumblebum
Well-known member
Well Thomas and Chris, after 5 months or so I have made it to the real-time end of the vortex!
There is such a great mix of history, restoration, repair, construction, recycling, conservation and education in this thread across several fields it's easy to see why it's enjoyed by so many.
I can't add any more sentiment to what others have already said, other than to say thanks for sharing what and as much as you have.
Cheers Grumblebum.
There is such a great mix of history, restoration, repair, construction, recycling, conservation and education in this thread across several fields it's easy to see why it's enjoyed by so many.
I can't add any more sentiment to what others have already said, other than to say thanks for sharing what and as much as you have.
Cheers Grumblebum.
Floor Trusses
Thanks everyone for all the positive vibes. It seems to be working as we're moving along nicely.
With the steel I-beams in place it was time to install the wood floor trusses.
Again using the GEHL made this a whole bunch easier. A stack of them were picked up and...
... handed over the basement wall.
Once there they were past the wall, each truss in turn, was slid on one I-beam, while Trey carried the other end.
Since the I-beam the truss was sliding on only went part way, Jim picked up the truss and carried it the rest of the way in place. Once we got going, we were setting and securing a new truss every few minutes or so. It went very smoothly.
In some places these new trusses were going to mate with some trusses previously installed. This notch area...
...mates with the tabs on the previous trusses. Note the tab on the left before a new truss is slid into position and then the next one to the right is installed and you can see the tab and notch mate perfectly together tying both trusses together making the floor a combined solid unit. Both trusses now bare on the top plate of the 2 X 6 wall we built earlier.
We just continued to slide more trusses into place.
On the opposite side where the trusses hang from the I-beam, a wood top plate was installed on top of the I-beam to give us a surface we could nail and secure the truss to. So many months ago, when the height of that I-beam was designed, we had to account for the thickness of the wood top plate to get the correct beam height and as you can see the I-bean is perfectly placed.
On this side of the floor, the trusses hang from this I-beam, and on the other side...
...they sit on top of another I-beam and the ends of the truss sit on top of the stairway load baring wall we built earlier. Trey is standing on one of the stairs which might help orient you.
Here's a view with most of the trusses in this section done.
The section in front of the fireplace was done a little differently. The yellow line shows the outline of the hearth which will extend approximately 2' (61 cm) beyond front of the firebox opening. To support the hearth a monolithic, cantilevered concrete slab will be formed up and poured in place on top the the block fireplace foundation. The trusses that end in front of the hearth concrete slab are hung using hangers shown by the red arrow.
Here's a side view of the truss hangers. The 2 hangers to the right don't have trusses installed in them yet.
This what it looks like...
...with most of the trusses installed. Up next.......laying the sub-floor. Oh boy, does that sound exciting or what?!
Many thanks again to all our friends out there, for giving up some time to follow along. Glad you're here.
Thomas
Thanks everyone for all the positive vibes. It seems to be working as we're moving along nicely.
With the steel I-beams in place it was time to install the wood floor trusses.
Again using the GEHL made this a whole bunch easier. A stack of them were picked up and...
... handed over the basement wall.
Once there they were past the wall, each truss in turn, was slid on one I-beam, while Trey carried the other end.
Since the I-beam the truss was sliding on only went part way, Jim picked up the truss and carried it the rest of the way in place. Once we got going, we were setting and securing a new truss every few minutes or so. It went very smoothly.
In some places these new trusses were going to mate with some trusses previously installed. This notch area...
...mates with the tabs on the previous trusses. Note the tab on the left before a new truss is slid into position and then the next one to the right is installed and you can see the tab and notch mate perfectly together tying both trusses together making the floor a combined solid unit. Both trusses now bare on the top plate of the 2 X 6 wall we built earlier.
We just continued to slide more trusses into place.
On the opposite side where the trusses hang from the I-beam, a wood top plate was installed on top of the I-beam to give us a surface we could nail and secure the truss to. So many months ago, when the height of that I-beam was designed, we had to account for the thickness of the wood top plate to get the correct beam height and as you can see the I-bean is perfectly placed.
On this side of the floor, the trusses hang from this I-beam, and on the other side...
...they sit on top of another I-beam and the ends of the truss sit on top of the stairway load baring wall we built earlier. Trey is standing on one of the stairs which might help orient you.
Here's a view with most of the trusses in this section done.
The section in front of the fireplace was done a little differently. The yellow line shows the outline of the hearth which will extend approximately 2' (61 cm) beyond front of the firebox opening. To support the hearth a monolithic, cantilevered concrete slab will be formed up and poured in place on top the the block fireplace foundation. The trusses that end in front of the hearth concrete slab are hung using hangers shown by the red arrow.
Here's a side view of the truss hangers. The 2 hangers to the right don't have trusses installed in them yet.
This what it looks like...
...with most of the trusses installed. Up next.......laying the sub-floor. Oh boy, does that sound exciting or what?!
Many thanks again to all our friends out there, for giving up some time to follow along. Glad you're here.
Thomas
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