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Above 1200 Sq/FT Restored 1930's Auto Shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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BB767

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Ok Rick you got me here I freely admit it, what the heck is "Bazinga"? :wtf: So upon Googling it I find:" transitive verb; attack somebody with words: to criticize somebody sharply, especially in a swift and clever way"

AH HA, OK, now I get it; stables, "Bazinga" yea, good one.........



(geeze where do these guys come from, "Bazinga"? They'll let anyone on this forum won't they? I mean Rick does do outstanding work on those vintage aircraft and that adjustable wrench he oil quenched is superb and he seemed nice enough when I met him at Willow Springs, but still...... Yup, just give 'ol Ryan an email address and aannnybody can come on here and "Bazinga" away. I fear for our modern civilization, I really do............next thing you'll know, piss trough will acceptable in polite company AND then where we will be, huh??? "Bazinga" that and see if the Queen would Knight you why don't ya. Must be an Australia thing, yea I bet that's it, yea sure.) :headscrat

It's all good Rick, really, all good mate. "Bazinga" away.....:thumbup: :D

Thomas
 
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BB767

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BB767, thank you so much for all the time and effort put into this thread, I'm now two days behind on my work thanks to you:) Please keep the pictures and information coming, I am totally addicted

Hey there jk unlimited, I'm happy to put you 2 days behind. Must mean you really like the thread and I take that to be a good thing. :D There is quite a vocal group now from down under, you guys all know each other? I mean there's only what, about 20 million or so there, so you must know everyone, right? :dunno: Welcome to where if you're not having fun....what's the point?

Thomas
 
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BB767

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I know you've heard this many times - I read all the comments and couldn't agree more! This is one of those threads I've been showing all my friends. You've done a lifetime of work in about 2 years! I can't even imagine the time that you've got into this project. The attention to detail, the meticulous restoration work, etc. etc. etc. I'm speechless!

slimpickins, now there is another great user name. That's what my Mom used to describe things around our house when I was growing up, " it'll be pretty slimpickins this month."

Let's see, the time I've got into this project....... nope not a clue. I can't even imagine either...and I was there! Labor of love to be sure and lots of quality time with my son...priceless. :bounce: Try not to drive anyone mad sharing the thread like sick puppy is in New Zealand will ya? Your friends will thank you I'm sure.

Thomas
 

willy3486

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I know throughout this thread I have been trying to explain how overgrown and 'jungle like' the 5 acres was. All the recent pictures on page 133, post # 2646 and this one really conveys what Cameron and I were faced with. Besides the brush and unwanted trees, there was....."material" ...just everywhere you turned. It was all so random and haphazard I really don't know why it was spread out seemingly over the whole property. :headscrat

I for one know exactly what you are talking about. After my dad passed away I cleaned up my parents place. People are not like they use to be like. When I was a kid they would help out. So I undertook cleaning it and had very little help. It was a mess,my dad had a lot of "treasures" and it was grown up. I tell people that on my dads side we all collect junk. The difference is how we store it. Some like myself hide it and keep it stored where its not in view. The others keep it everywhere. MY dad would find something and just put it anywhere. Anything that was junk to others he would get it and toss it on the place. Anyway while cleaning I got to where I had to use a grader blade on the back of the tractor. I would back into the weeds slowly until I hit or bumped into something. Most of what I found was steel,angle iron,cast iron,etc. so it didn't hurt to do that.

One piece I remember as a kid was the front end of a 40s chevy he bought back before I was a teen. He always said he wound make a trailer of it. I was hoping to find it, just because he talked about it. Well I never did find it laying about. Then one day I was moving his trailers and looked at somethin under one and to my surprise it was the old front end. Gave me a smile he got it fixed. I did find a lot of stuff around. My mom wanted it all gone and cleaned up. She told me to get whatever I wanted and burn,sell,give away or throw away. I got a few old drills and a saw as my nephew was throwing in the junkpile. One old skilsaw had been wet and rusted up. My nephew asked why in the world I would want it since it was rusted up and I told him it was sentimental to me. I took it home and took it apart as well as the drills. I cleaned and fixed all of them even the saw. As far as cleaning I am in the middle of cleaning my wifes family place. They are widening the road so I am working on this place. I wonder what goodies I will find. I will be glad to get done, I have been working for a couple of years to get ready by clearing brush. Its not as rewarding when you do a Indiana Jones and find some long lost artifact.

As far as the hood ornaments save them. Even if they are not good enough to use they would bring back memories. I had one I got from my uncle. He was one of those geniuses we see that didn't get past 6th grade because you quit and worked on the farm then. But this guy was one of the best engineers I have ever seen. He could make anything or any tool he needed. I use to go see him when I could just to learn. I got one of those old hood ornaments from him to use but never did. I haven't seen it in years, I hope I didn't toss it. Anyway keep up the good work. A lot of the old stuff you find may not be much good to you but I bet somewhere someone would like it ,similar to the gerraud intake you found.
 
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BB767

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At a request to clarify the safety release feature of the Walker a couple more pictures might help.

IMG_4273.jpg


These are the parts we'll discuss. Second from left is a small ball at top and below it a spring which pushes against the ball when installed. In the middle-right is a relatively large round piece with multiple grooves on one end of it. The long pin with a little paint on one end is the safety pin and to the right of it the cap which is press fitted to the safety pin, preventing its removal. On the bottom is the large, red release knob, upside down.

IMG_4295.jpg


Between the red release knob and the handle you can see a small portion of the release rod (unpainted) which is inside the long jack handle. The safety pin slides horizontally under the release knob. Note the right side of it where it's not painted and the groove in the pin. In this position the small ball is forced up into the knob, preventing the large red release knob from engaging the release rod in the handle. The red release knob just freewheels; it spins freely.

IMG_4474.jpg


That safety pin can then be slide to the left which allows the small ball in the knob to drop down (forced down from spring pressure) and begin to engage the round multi grooved piece on the long release rod in the handle...

IMG_4473.jpg


... once the safety pin is all the way to the left, the ball drops down completely and fully engages the multi grooved piece allowing the red release knob to now turn the long release rod in the handle. The concept is once the jack is in use and in the up position under a car, the safety pin should be slide to prevent the red release knob from turning the release rod, making it freewheel and preventing the jack from accidentally being lowered.

You can also see why the safety pin was only powder coated on the end, with just 1/4" overlap. That way with the pin fully positioned all the exposed parts of it are coated but no coating is on the pin where it sides in.

Thomas
 

ZRX61

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Ok Rick you got me here I freely admit it, what the heck is "Bazinga"? :wtf: So upon Googling it I find:" transitive verb; attack somebody with words: to criticize somebody sharply, especially in a swift and clever way"

AH HA, OK, now I get it; stables, "Bazinga" yea, good one.........

(geeze where do these guys come from, "Bazinga"? They'll let anyone on this forum won't they? :headscrat

It's all good Rick, really, all good mate. "Bazinga" away.....:thumbup: :D

Thomas

It's from the TV show The Big Bang Theory on CBS :bounce:

Urban dictionary:
Bazinga
A catchy phrase to accompany your clever pranks.

As popularized by Sheldon Cooper (The Big Bang Theory).
I just replaced your toothpaste with denture cream. Bazinga!
 
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BB767

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It's from the TV show The Big Bang Theory on CBS :bounce:

Urban dictionary:
Bazinga
A catchy phrase to accompany your clever pranks.

As popularized by Sheldon Cooper (The Big Bang Theory).
I just replaced your toothpaste with denture cream. Bazinga!

Well, there we go. My apologies Rick, see I don't watch TV so I'm afraid I'm at a disadvantage. Thanks for bringing me up to speed. It's slightly awkward when some of the flight attendants use TV "lingo" like that and I'm clueless? :wtf: Boy does THAT make me feel like the "old man". :eek:

Cheers, Thomas
 

M145

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I read the story in Car Craft and had to read more on the web. So now it's a week later and I'm done. I have garage envy. However, I am getting a storage shed this week so I can have something to look forward too. I enjoy the restoration of the equipment. Recently I rescued a vise from our work's scrap heap and put it in service on my toolbox. It had sat outside for sometime and was all rusted up. I put it in a blaster cabinet and then spray-bombed Krylon paint (no powder coat access for me). Looks good as new. I look for more great stories on the treasures you have found and the restorations performed.
Tim
 
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BB767

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I for one know exactly what you are talking about. After my dad passed away I cleaned up my parents place. People are not like they use to be like. When I was a kid they would help out. So I undertook cleaning it and had very little help. It was a mess,my dad had a lot of "treasures" and it was grown up. I tell people that on my dads side we all collect junk. The difference is how we store it. Some like myself hide it and keep it stored where its not in view. The others keep it everywhere. MY dad would find something and just put it anywhere. Anything that was junk to others he would get it and toss it on the place. Anyway while cleaning I got to where I had to use a grader blade on the back of the tractor. I would back into the weeds slowly until I hit or bumped into something. Most of what I found was steel,angle iron,cast iron,etc. so it didn't hurt to do that.

One piece I remember as a kid was the front end of a 40s chevy he bought back before I was a teen. He always said he wound make a trailer of it. I was hoping to find it, just because he talked about it. Well I never did find it laying about. Then one day I was moving his trailers and looked at somethin under one and to my surprise it was the old front end. Gave me a smile he got it fixed. I did find a lot of stuff around. My mom wanted it all gone and cleaned up. She told me to get whatever I wanted and burn,sell,give away or throw away. I got a few old drills and a saw as my nephew was throwing in the junkpile. One old skilsaw had been wet and rusted up. My nephew asked why in the world I would want it since it was rusted up and I told him it was sentimental to me. I took it home and took it apart as well as the drills. I cleaned and fixed all of them even the saw. As far as cleaning I am in the middle of cleaning my wifes family place. They are widening the road so I am working on this place. I wonder what goodies I will find. I will be glad to get done, I have been working for a couple of years to get ready by clearing brush. Its not as rewarding when you do a Indiana Jones and find some long lost artifact.

As far as the hood ornaments save them. Even if they are not good enough to use they would bring back memories. I had one I got from my uncle. He was one of those geniuses we see that didn't get past 6th grade because you quit and worked on the farm then. But this guy was one of the best engineers I have ever seen. He could make anything or any tool he needed. I use to go see him when I could just to learn. I got one of those old hood ornaments from him to use but never did. I haven't seen it in years, I hope I didn't toss it. Anyway keep up the good work. A lot of the old stuff you find may not be much good to you but I bet somewhere someone would like it ,similar to the gerraud intake you found.

No question you know EXACTLY what I mean. You can't see anything very far in front of you so the method Cameron and I used was; on rainy days we'd work inside and on dry days after the ground dried out a little...

Tractorsm1Edit.jpg


I'd walk ahead of him, while he used the John Deere with a bush hog, and like you, backed into the brush. Here he's using the bucket to push all the brush chopped down by the bush hog. By pre scouting in front of him, I could usually keep the the tractor and bush hog safe from...

DSCN0183.jpg


...well, I really don't know what that was, just that I didn't want to hit it...

DSCN0145.jpg


...or small structures like this dog house and...

DSCN0172.jpg


...this which was completely hidden from sight and...

DSCN0182.jpg


...oh there was a lot of this kind of "stuff". Also notice part of some concrete blocks top, right? Hitting a concrete block will really ruin your day let me tell you...

DSCN0196.jpg


... and all kinds of glass. That was the worst, glass. You hit those jars or bottles with the bush hog and it an instant there were glass shreds everywhere that then had to be picked up by hand!!!:mad: :eek: It's possible, not really sure , but it's possible that if I missed some of these and he hit them, he just might have heard me use some "colorful" language. :tantrum2: Not his fault of course, all mine. Normally I've very restrained about that sort of thing but in the heat of the moment....... it might have happened, you'd have to ask him. Maybe the noise of the tractor drowned me out. :rolleyes:

Thomas
 
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OldMechanik

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Humid,South Carolina
I read the story in Car Craft and had to read more on the web. So now it's a week later and I'm done. I have garage envy. However, I am getting a storage shed this week so I can have something to look forward too. I enjoy the restoration of the equipment. Recently I rescued a vise from our work's scrap heap and put it in service on my toolbox. It had sat outside for sometime and was all rusted up. I put it in a blaster cabinet and then spray-bombed Krylon paint (no powder coat access for me). Looks good as new. I look for more great stories on the treasures you have found and the restorations performed.
Tim

Powdercoat rules for sure! Find a used household oven and get a do it yourself kit. Presto!

Have you got a linky for the CC read? I can't find it.
 
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BB767

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Thomas,
enjoyed the story for a few months now.
This link may help with tool ID.
http://home.comcast.net/~alloy-artifacts/index.html

Thank you Technova, I took a look and I'll see if I can post some information over there.......when I get a little more time. It might put on us on the path. A very neat site with tons of information. I also see that Lisle is still in business. That might be a way to go as well.

Thomas
 
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BB767

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I read the story in Car Craft and had to read more on the web. So now it's a week later and I'm done. I have garage envy. However, I am getting a storage shed this week so I can have something to look forward too. I enjoy the restoration of the equipment. Recently I rescued a vise from our work's scrap heap and put it in service on my toolbox. It had sat outside for sometime and was all rusted up. I put it in a blaster cabinet and then spray-bombed Krylon paint (no powder coat access for me). Looks good as new. I look for more great stories on the treasures you have found and the restorations performed.
Tim

Hello there Tim. Way to go rescuing the old vise. Old "found" tools like that can become your favorites because you've bonded with them. No really, I'm serious here, you really can develop an affinity for them that way. They become your trusty "go to" tools, you turn to them first. Now, next time you go to a grange sale and see nasty, rusty, but high quality, tools you'll see through the rust and realize the quality within. :thumbup:

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Too bad that there isn't a patent number on the Lisle tools, a quick Google search would tell us what those are.

With those handles they seem to be some sort of gauge, or my best guess is that they are slave pins for some sort of assembly. Think heavy equipment, very heavy equipment.


Nuts aka Doug

Doug, when I get the chance I'll try to see if there are any numbers anywhere. Like I said, I just found it and didn't have any quality time with it. With luck there might be an instruction sheet in the box, but a cursory glance tells me not to hold my breath on that one. :eek:

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Powdercoat rules for sure! Find a used household oven and get a do it yourself kit. Presto!

Have you got a linky for the CC read? I can't find it.

Eastwood has been expanding their powder coat material and I've always had good experiences with anything I've gotten from them. However my Walker would never fit in a household oven so...... no worries Don, I've got more material for you coming. :)

Thomas
 
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BB767

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And speaking of Walker floor jacks...

IMG_4471.jpg


This is the most massive casting of the lot, the casting the power cylinder acts against, causing it to pivot and rise up. Don told me it took a lot longer to bring this up to even temperature in the oven and then it took a while for it to cool down also. There's quite a bit of metal making that casting up, a good thing. :thumbup:

IMG_4472.jpg


IMG_4476.jpg


This is the assembly that holds the saddle, which will be placed in the hole on the far right. There is a wear area on these two long arms, near the saddle hole I want you to note...

IMG_4454.jpg


The wear marks on the two arms...

IMG_4455.jpg


...were caused by the pin the that holds this...

IMG_4456.jpg


...assembly together.

IMG_4460.jpg


Here's the old pin. The left side end had been worn away allowing this pin to slip out of...

IMG_4468.jpg


...these holes. When it did so it wore against those two arms.

IMG_4462.jpg


So a new pin was fabricated...

IMG_4463.jpg


with a new flange on one end.

IMG_4464.jpg


IMG_4465.jpg


The edge of the other end will be peened over in place once the pin is permanently installed, preventing it from coming out.

IMG_4466.jpg


That pin not only holds this assembly together, but when in place it serves to...

IMG_4467.jpg


...hold the saddle in place. Note how the pin can be seen intruding into the saddle hole on the left at 9:00.

IMG_4470.jpg


This shows the bottom of the saddle and how the pin,(I'm using the old pin for illustration) when installed, fits in the groove on the bottom of the saddle, thus preventing it from coming out. The ends of the new pin now need to be powder coated before it can be installed. Where the end is peened it will have to be touched up since peening it will remove some coating undoubtedly.

OK, i'm told a picture is worth 1,000 words so on this post alone I've saved you what, about 15,000 words. Imagine all the extra sleep you're gonna get now, since you don't have to read all that? Hows that for being considerate of your valuable time? :D

To be continued...

Thomas
 

GreyOwl

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I know this wouldn't be original but how about drilling and tapping the end of the pin for a washer and flush lock bolt to hold in the pin instead of peening it ? It would be removeable if necessary down the road.

Charles
 
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Elroy

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I know this wouldn't be original but how about drilling and tapping the end of the pin for a washer and flush lock bolt to hold in the pin instead of peening it ? It would be removeable if necessary down the road.

Charles

Elroy concurs.

In this situation, The Elroy would recommend a deviation from original and incorporate an improvement as well. A simple groove with an external snap ring would be viable alternative or you could take a tip from Hein-Werner as shown here:

Picture123.jpg
[/IMG]

Picture129.jpg
[/IMG]

Werner also turned a groove in their pin but it was retained by a washer and a 1/4-20 screw. Fully serviceable !!

Elroy didn't document it on his build, but he also incorporated a large custom made plastic thrust washer made from a coffee can lid under his saddle. Made for a squeak free and smooth saddle index and it helps maintain paint integrity. The surface is so large it will never extrude and the coffee lid is only like .020 thick.

I heard Elroy say: Try it, you'll like it.

It's also a hidden feature so only you and Elroy's hair dress would know for sure. :badteeth:
 

CRTDI

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Elroy concurs.
In this situation, The Elroy would recommend a deviation from original and incorporate an improvement as well. A simple groove with an external snap ring would be viable alternative or you could take a tip from Hein-Werner as shown here:

I like this idea as well. This similar pin design incorporating an external circlip is also used on a couple of my Blackhawk jacks. I'll bet you that most Walker jacks of this same era that have seen any real use will have this same pin wear/clearance issue. Sometimes it makes sense to alter from the original design for the sake of improvement if the overall original aesthetics can still be retained.
 
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BB767

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I know this wouldn't be original but how about drilling and tapping the end of the pin for a washer and flush lock bolt to hold in the pin instead of peening it ? It would be removeable if necessary down the road.

Charles

Elroy concurs.

In this situation, The Elroy would recommend a deviation from original and incorporate an improvement as well. A simple groove with an external snap ring would be viable alternative or you could take a tip from Hein-Werner as shown here:



Werner also turned a groove in their pin but it was retained by a washer and a 1/4-20 screw. Fully serviceable !!

Elroy didn't document it on his build, but he also incorporated a large custom made plastic thrust washer made from a coffee can lid under his saddle. Made for a squeak free and smooth saddle index and it helps maintain paint integrity. The surface is so large it will never extrude and the coffee lid is only like .020 thick.

I heard Elroy say: Try it, you'll like it.

It's also a hidden feature so only you and Elroy's hair dress would know for sure. :badteeth:

A great suggestion and one I have considered. I like the non-permance, easy removability it would give me. I'm also open to a better way. Some additional information, however, that may alter your suggestions; the issue that I have to work around are clearances...


IMG_4480.jpg


... as in; I don't have much clearance...

IMG_4481.jpg


...between the side of the casting...

IMG_4482.jpg


...and the side of the arm next to it. This is the right side and...

IMG_4483.jpg


....this is the left side. Now I'm just thinking out loud here: Where you propose a washer and fastener I have less than 1/16" total clearance on either side. In that space I would have to place the retaining devise and still leave some room for clearance for the arms to move. I think a washer and accompanying screw head would be just too thick and would hit the arm when the jack was lowered. Because it's such a small and tight clearance, I'm going to guess that's why Walker peened the ends to begin with.

IMG_4484.jpg


I took a measurement off my other Walker and it has the same 1/16" clearance between the arm and side of the casting. (no I haven't cleaned that part of the jack up yet, it's still as purchased dirt and grim ;)) The angle of this photograph may make that clearance appear larger than it is. This jack has had peened ends on that pin for 60 or so years and didn't need the removability feature we all agree would be desirable. The snap ring idea I hadn't thought of and I'm still thinking about how that might be made to work. :headscrat The pin would have to be lengthened to expose the groove the snap ring would fit in, hmmm...........

Elroy, your plastic saddle thrust washer idea is good one as well. I'll have to see what surface my saddle bears against under load and see if I could incorporate that. Thank all you sirs for your helpful thoughts. :thumbup:

Thomas
 

Superlifted06FX4

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Vince, I have a set of 4 new, never used...metal.... white Port a Walls in the the tool shed. I'd never seen any before but an old hand mechanic friend (he's 90 years old, still drives everywhere and sharp as a razor) was out there prowling around last fall and he spotted them. He told me they were used before the rubber ones like you mentioned came out. My 1949 Willys Jeepster came with them on the car. I bought it when I was 19 years old (so Chris knew what she was in for long before we got married I might add) and owned it for over 20 years. I went out to the tool shed to try and get a picture of the metal ones but I couldn't find them right away so that will have to wait for another day. I did come across these though...

IMG_4441.jpg


...for all you Pontiac fans. :)

Thomas

I would LOVE one of those ornaments... I love Pontiacs...
 
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BB767

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I like this idea as well. This similar pin design incorporating an external circlip is also used on a couple of my Blackhawk jacks. I'll bet you that most Walker jacks of this same era that have seen any real use will have this same pin wear/clearance issue. Sometimes it makes sense to alter from the original design for the sake of improvement if the overall original aesthetics can still be retained.

CRTDI the wear on the pin on my jack I now believe is really from it's removal at some point many, many years ago. Maybe when the saddle was removed and those two holes were torched into the saddle. :sad:

IMG_4460.jpg


That pin still had a shoulder on one end allowing it to only come out one side. If you look at the wear on the sides of the arms,

IMG_4454.jpg


it's on the sides of both arms. If that pin were routinely removed say, so a different adaptor plate in place of the original saddle could be installed temporarily, maybe for a transmission adapter plate for example, when the pin was reinserted, it was done from the opposite side from time to time, thus resulting in wear on both arms in about equal amounts. If the pin was always left in place there would only be wear on one arm as it could only work it's was out on one side.

IMG_4464.jpg


The pins on the front of the arms, seen on the far right, are peened just like the pin I replaced, and show no wear at all and they would move just as much as the pin I replaced. My other Walker shows no wear at all on any of its pins that are peened. It's all a guess on my part but I'm fairly certain the original peening, if left undisturbed, would give good service life.

Your circlip suggestion has real merit and I'm looking at it. The ability to easily remove the saddle could come into play at some point and now would be the time to do it. Thank you.

Thomas
 

Sick Puppy

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Seriously bestatv, you're the first to bring it up and frankly to mention me in the same breath with Peter Egan is beyond an honor. I'm not fit to empty the shavings from his pencil sharpener! :bow: What a talent and one of my favorite writers. I thank you from the bottom of my heart for the thought.

Thomas
I think you do yourself a disservice Thomas... :thumbup:

Who is this Peter Egan dude anyway?

[ducks, as he's sure people will start throwing stuff at him] :bounce:
 

mdbeck1

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A great suggestion and one I have considered. I like the non-permance, easy removability it would give me. I'm also open to a better way. Some additional information, however, that may alter your suggestions; the issue that I have to work around are clearances...

...

... as in; I don't have much clearance...

IMG_4481.jpg


...between the side of the casting...

...

...and the side of the arm next to it. This is the right side and...

...

....this is the left side. Now I'm just thinking out loud here: Where you propose a washer and fastener I have less than 1/16" total clearance on either side. In that space I would have to place the retaining devise and still leave some room for clearance for the arms to move. I think a washer and accompanying screw head would be just too thick and would hit the arm when the jack was lowered. Because it's such a small and tight clearance, I'm going to guess that's why Walker peened the ends to begin with.

...

I took a measurement off my other Walker and it has the same 1/16" clearance between the arm and side of the casting. (no I haven't cleaned that part of the jack up yet, it's still as purchased dirt and grim ;)) The angle of this photograph may make that clearance appear larger than it is. This jack has had peened ends on that pin for 60 or so years and didn't need the removability feature we all agree would be desirable. The snap ring idea I hadn't thought of and I'm still thinking about how that might be made to work. :headscrat The pin would have to be lengthened to expose the groove the snap ring would fit in, hmmm...........

...

Thomas

How about drilling a hole from the front (or bottom) and tapping it. That way you could put a bolt in that would press against the pin?
 

DZL JIM

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How about drilling a hole from the front (or bottom) and tapping it. That way you could put a bolt in that would press against the pin?

This was going to be my suggestion.
Some what hidden small hole on the back/underside with long set screw that engages a dimple/hole in the pin.
 

robin1731

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This was going to be my suggestion.
Some what hidden small hole on the back/underside with long set screw that engages a dimple/hole in the pin.

I had the same thought too. Just put a set screw in the hole. Front, top, bottom, whichever would be least noticable.
 

JDMopar

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Asheville,NC
You could also drill a small hole of the proper size, top to bottom, thru the pin also, one one side or the other....and use a roll pin to hold the steel pin in place. Might be a lot easier than cutting grooves. With your limited side clearance, if you wanted to use snap rings...you could shorten the pin slightly and have inside grooves cut at each end to hold the pin in. Like piston pin grooves, ya know? Good luck
 

GreyOwl

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I had the same thought too. Just put a set screw in the hole. Front, top, bottom, whichever would be least noticable.

Another + on this after seeing the side clearance issue. But how tight does the pin fit the casting? If not real snug I wouldn't think you would want to put a set screw on the bottom since when in use all the weight you are lifting would be bearing in the set screw. Another thought if using a set screw, dimple the pin a pretty good amount and install a set screw but not tightly then back it up with a second set screw to lock the first. GM did this on door handles for a while.

Charles
 
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BB767

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How about drilling a hole from the front (or bottom) and tapping it. That way you could put a bolt in that would press against the pin?

This was going to be my suggestion.
Some what hidden small hole on the back/underside with long set screw that engages a dimple/hole in the pin.

I had the same thought too. Just put a set screw in the hole. Front, top, bottom, whichever would be least noticable.

You could also drill a small hole of the proper size, top to bottom, thru the pin also, one one side or the other....and use a roll pin to hold the steel pin in place. Might be a lot easier than cutting grooves. With your limited side clearance, if you wanted to use snap rings...you could shorten the pin slightly and have inside grooves cut at each end to hold the pin in. Like piston pin grooves, ya know? Good luck

All great ideas and again one that I had considered and was pretty well set on. But as I looked more and more at the design...

IMG_4465.jpg


... that pin was designed to allow it to roll if need be in the casting. The platform the saddle sits in articulates around the pin as the jack is raised and lowered. That pin can also turn in the casting if need be since it floats free and is not restricted. If the platform containing the saddle were unable to articulate around that pin, the pin can still roll in the casting, preventing anything from binding up. Walker engineered it so that the saddle, which bears the weight of the object while under load, has maximum freedom to move. Restricting that pins movement could cause unforeseen wear or other problems. I decided its best to let it float in the casting as designed.

Thank you all for the suggestions. I'm at a bit of an advantage since I have spent time with the jack and how it works while you're just working off of photographs. Please don't hesitate to follow up if I'm missing something here. I'm always open to new ideas. ;)

Thomas
 

johno

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Thomas

A circlip on the inside of the shouldered end of the pin , I suspect there might be a little more rooom there.
 

CRTDI

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Thomas

A circlip on the inside of the shouldered end of the pin , I suspect there might be a little more rooom there.


Another, good idea if clearance permits. A set screw design could also allow for the pin to move freely. For an example, just look at how the rear casters are positioned and retained with that single set screw. However, if you think that the original wear/clearance issue was caused by removing and reinstalling the pin then there is really no need to over think or modify your pin installation.
 

APEowner

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Hey, I finally have something to contribute to this thread!

A variation on the setscrew idea is to use a bolt with the head seating on the casting. Machine a groove in the pin so that the tip of the bolt keeps the pin from sliding out. You'd probably want to machine the threads off the tip of the bolt where it fits in the groove so that they don't get buggered and prevent the bolt from coming out.
 

justbummin1

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Thomas, Add me to the long list of lurkers for about 9 months but I have kept my mouth shut (or fingers off the keys) tell now because with your talents and attention to detail there hasn't been anything to add. On this pin can you put it back in the lathe and drill and tap into the end then either use a modified washer to basically make a shoulder for the end like what is there then a flat head socket screw gets put thru flush so then you have no clearance issue? Just a thought but maybe worth some consideration if you want it easily removable.

Rob
 
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