A35Plt
Active member
Wow, this thread has fallen all the way back to page 6. I think Tom is taking this retirement thing a little too far!!
Above 1200 Sq/FT Restored 1930's Auto Shop
- Thread starter BB767
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Lyndon
Well-known member
I hope all is OK. Didn't some cyclones go through Illinois for the first time in 30 years a couple of weeks ago? 
Concerned Lyndon
Concerned Lyndon
tdkkart
Well-known member
I hope all is OK. Didn't some cyclones go through Illinois for the first time in 30 years a couple of weeks ago?
Concerned Lyndon
Those were up by RockFord, Philo is down by Champaign.
I have to admit I am enjoying retirement immensely. I've been putting in some long days and by the time I get home I'm a little tired to post in. I'll get some information about...
...some modifications I did recently to the air meter that you should find very helpful and out in the barn...
...there was an addition that turned out to be very handy.
With the cars I've spent some time with both Corvettes.
While I installed this valve on the convertible, it's something you'll want to consider for many of your older cars too. I'll post details about that and the coupe...
...getting new shoes and...
... a most unusual battery installation.
There is an on going project with the trailer also. That's just some of what's been going on out at the ranch but I've been negligent about posting here. Soon, very soon. Thanks everyone for not giving up on me just yet.
Thomas
...some modifications I did recently to the air meter that you should find very helpful and out in the barn...
...there was an addition that turned out to be very handy.
With the cars I've spent some time with both Corvettes.
While I installed this valve on the convertible, it's something you'll want to consider for many of your older cars too. I'll post details about that and the coupe...
...getting new shoes and...
... a most unusual battery installation.
There is an on going project with the trailer also. That's just some of what's been going on out at the ranch but I've been negligent about posting here. Soon, very soon. Thanks everyone for not giving up on me just yet.
Thomas
markviii
Well-known member
Gifford, IL, 30 miles north of us, was unfortunately hit Nov 17, 2013 and is still rebuilding. Washington, IL, by Peoria also was hit by that same system. We've, luckily, escaped major damage here in tornado alley. The F4 near Rockford, IL, last month was devastating.
So, no, we weren't involved in any disasters taking us away from GJ. Just extremely busy.
We'll be "back in circulation" again next week.
Chris
So, no, we weren't involved in any disasters taking us away from GJ. Just extremely busy.
We'll be "back in circulation" again next week.
Chris
That is why I'm afraid to retire! Every retiree I know says they've almost caught up with all their projects. I have an excuse
markviii
Well-known member
I don't envision either of us seeing the end of "projects". They are all things we want to do, so they are definitely not a chore.
Chris
Chris
MisteR Tee
Well-known member
I've never been so busy since I retired, those jobs "you can do now that you've retired dear!" just keep coming & all the while the stuff I need to do like finish my 5 year rebuild of my street rod T coupe & now my little 4 cylinder FED are falling behind their schedules!
MG David
Well-known member
Thomas, is that valve going in the fuel line, clutch line or in the brake line? I did hear of someone putting a key operated valve in the hydraulic clutch line as an anti theft measure.
By the way I have the book now. Just got to our hero buying his first Corvette and having to learn to drive it.
By the way I have the book now. Just got to our hero buying his first Corvette and having to learn to drive it.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Judging from the look of the original fitting, I'd say it's a heater hose ******. Looks like that valve is designed to manually shut off coolant flow to the heater core.
Nursepeter1973
Well-known member
Thomas,
I have to say thankyou again for your postings... I copied one of your ideas to make
View media item 50088A large square to clamp bits I am welding to to reduce welding distortion etc
Thanks!
I have to say thankyou again for your postings... I copied one of your ideas to make
View media item 50088A large square to clamp bits I am welding to to reduce welding distortion etc
Thanks!
Heater Core Shut Off Valve
I've heard of the same type of anti-thieft measure and it would be effective but probably a hassle for the owner to use. What I'm showing is a manual heater core shut-off valve.
Enjoy the book, you're in for a treat! It's a fairly accurate overall depiction of life for us teen kids in the US back in the '60's. Gives you a pretty good idea of what it was like.
Thomas
Exactly right. The following post will detail why and how that valve is used. Thanks C_F.
Thomas
I've heard of the same type of anti-thieft measure and it would be effective but probably a hassle for the owner to use. What I'm showing is a manual heater core shut-off valve.
Enjoy the book, you're in for a treat! It's a fairly accurate overall depiction of life for us teen kids in the US back in the '60's. Gives you a pretty good idea of what it was like.
Thomas
Exactly right. The following post will detail why and how that valve is used. Thanks C_F.
Thomas
Heater Core Shut-Off Valve Installation
As many, if not most of you know, the interior heat of a car comes from hot engine coolant circulating continuously through a heater core which looks and acts like a miniature radiator - it's a heat exchanger. The heater core is located under the dash, usually on the passenger side of the car. A fan blows air across the fins of the heater core which warms the air. That warm air then moves through air ducts to warm the interior of the car. Engine coolant temperatures typically run in the 180ºF (82º C) range plus or minus a few degrees.
What many don't know is, if you turn your heater "off" all you're doing is shutting off the air being directed across the heater core fins. Hot coolant is still circulating through the heater core itself all the time. With modern air conditioning that's not much of a problem but in our older cars having 180º coolant in the small heater core above the passengers feet will add considerable heat to the interior of a non A/C equipped car. How can we stop that 180º heat from entering the heater core and the interior all together? Here's one solution I used on my Corvette convertible but this same method can be used on a wide range of vehicles made in the 50's - 70's.
The top arrow is where coolant first leaves the engine via the heater hose, on its way to the heater core. The small hose below it is the return hose from the heater core. Engine coolant constantly circulates through those hoses. If you can stop coolant flow going through that hose you can considerably reduce the the interior heat of the car.
A shut-off valve is a solution. Grainger distributes a small, mini 90º ball valve that is perfect. It has both male and female 1/2" pipe thread which is what I needed when I removed the old hose ******. That valve is Grainger Item # 1PZB5. Here's a link:
http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Brass-Ball-Valve-1PZB5?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP
It comes with 3 different style handles (2 are seen in the package) depending on the application.
I used the handle pictured above. What's important is that handle is easily removable. Without being able to remove the handle installation would be much harder if not impossible in some applications. You'll also need to buy a new hose ******, the old one seen on the right.
Removing an old hose ****** out of the engine can be a challenge. Plan ahead and you can greatly help yourself. First off, start applying penetrating oil as many days ahead of time as you can. Let it soak in to loosen the old hose ******. For really difficult frozen parts I use...
...Aerokroil:
http://www.kanolabs.com/
I find Aerokroil will work when all others don't. It's important to get the penetrating oil right on the threads.
Use an awl to remove paint and accumulated gunk on the area where the part threads into the engine before removal to allow the oil to creep along and soak the threads and loosen them up.
Choice of tools is important also. That old hose ****** is fairly large so I used a 1/2" drive socket.
Pictured on the left is a 1/2" drive socket and on the right is a more common 3/8" drive socket. Both are the same size for a 7/8" fastener, just the drives are different sizes. To remove fasteners I also used a breaker bar...
... instead of a ratchet. As a rule I don't like to use a ratchet to break loose fasteners, instead I prefer a breaker bar. The bottom shows a 24" long, 1/2" drive breaker bar. Above it a 10" long, 3/8" drive breaker bar. To remove a stubborn fastener, more leverage is your best friend.
The type of socket used is important also. Shown is a 12 point socket vrs...
...a 6 point socket.
You can see where a 12 point doesn't provide as much contact area...
...the same size 6 point. I rarely use 12 points sockets anymore.
Lastly, because of the protruding hose ******, I used a 6 point deep well socket (on top) instead of a standard socket.
I'd apply some Areokroil and a wait a few minutes then give a tug on the breaker bar. Even though I had started soaking it several days in advance, it took over 2 hours of alternating tugging on the breaker bar and allowing more penetrating oil to soak in. I worked on other projects while it was soaking because I didn't want to rush it. Being impatient is when you break things.
With the old hose ****** removed...
...I applied thread sealant paste on the new valve threads and...
...installed the new valve. Note the handle had to be removed in order to turn the valve in.
By comparing the two pictures above you get an idea of how far the valve threads in. Care needs to be taken to stop with the valve tight and the valve stem facing up.
Here the handle has been installed. Then I checked...
...to make sure the handle cleared when the valve was turned on and off. After that I installed all new heater hoses and used factory style Corbin spring clamps.
So here it is, installation complete. This valve is solidly held in place by the intake, it is small and so it's unobtrusive, no permanent alterations need be made to the car - it's all reversible, and has a chrome finish for durability. If I need heat in the car it's easy enough to turn the valve on to allow coolant flow to the heater core. While some transient heat will travel up the bottom, heater outlet hose, without actual coolant circulation, the heater core temperatures should be much lower. With it turned off this summer, the car should be much cooler inside.
Thomas
As many, if not most of you know, the interior heat of a car comes from hot engine coolant circulating continuously through a heater core which looks and acts like a miniature radiator - it's a heat exchanger. The heater core is located under the dash, usually on the passenger side of the car. A fan blows air across the fins of the heater core which warms the air. That warm air then moves through air ducts to warm the interior of the car. Engine coolant temperatures typically run in the 180ºF (82º C) range plus or minus a few degrees.
What many don't know is, if you turn your heater "off" all you're doing is shutting off the air being directed across the heater core fins. Hot coolant is still circulating through the heater core itself all the time. With modern air conditioning that's not much of a problem but in our older cars having 180º coolant in the small heater core above the passengers feet will add considerable heat to the interior of a non A/C equipped car. How can we stop that 180º heat from entering the heater core and the interior all together? Here's one solution I used on my Corvette convertible but this same method can be used on a wide range of vehicles made in the 50's - 70's.
The top arrow is where coolant first leaves the engine via the heater hose, on its way to the heater core. The small hose below it is the return hose from the heater core. Engine coolant constantly circulates through those hoses. If you can stop coolant flow going through that hose you can considerably reduce the the interior heat of the car.
A shut-off valve is a solution. Grainger distributes a small, mini 90º ball valve that is perfect. It has both male and female 1/2" pipe thread which is what I needed when I removed the old hose ******. That valve is Grainger Item # 1PZB5. Here's a link:
http://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Brass-Ball-Valve-1PZB5?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP
It comes with 3 different style handles (2 are seen in the package) depending on the application.
I used the handle pictured above. What's important is that handle is easily removable. Without being able to remove the handle installation would be much harder if not impossible in some applications. You'll also need to buy a new hose ******, the old one seen on the right.
Removing an old hose ****** out of the engine can be a challenge. Plan ahead and you can greatly help yourself. First off, start applying penetrating oil as many days ahead of time as you can. Let it soak in to loosen the old hose ******. For really difficult frozen parts I use...
...Aerokroil:
http://www.kanolabs.com/
I find Aerokroil will work when all others don't. It's important to get the penetrating oil right on the threads.
Use an awl to remove paint and accumulated gunk on the area where the part threads into the engine before removal to allow the oil to creep along and soak the threads and loosen them up.
Choice of tools is important also. That old hose ****** is fairly large so I used a 1/2" drive socket.
Pictured on the left is a 1/2" drive socket and on the right is a more common 3/8" drive socket. Both are the same size for a 7/8" fastener, just the drives are different sizes. To remove fasteners I also used a breaker bar...
... instead of a ratchet. As a rule I don't like to use a ratchet to break loose fasteners, instead I prefer a breaker bar. The bottom shows a 24" long, 1/2" drive breaker bar. Above it a 10" long, 3/8" drive breaker bar. To remove a stubborn fastener, more leverage is your best friend.
The type of socket used is important also. Shown is a 12 point socket vrs...
...a 6 point socket.
You can see where a 12 point doesn't provide as much contact area...
...the same size 6 point. I rarely use 12 points sockets anymore.
Lastly, because of the protruding hose ******, I used a 6 point deep well socket (on top) instead of a standard socket.
I'd apply some Areokroil and a wait a few minutes then give a tug on the breaker bar. Even though I had started soaking it several days in advance, it took over 2 hours of alternating tugging on the breaker bar and allowing more penetrating oil to soak in. I worked on other projects while it was soaking because I didn't want to rush it. Being impatient is when you break things.
With the old hose ****** removed...
...I applied thread sealant paste on the new valve threads and...
...installed the new valve. Note the handle had to be removed in order to turn the valve in.
By comparing the two pictures above you get an idea of how far the valve threads in. Care needs to be taken to stop with the valve tight and the valve stem facing up.
Here the handle has been installed. Then I checked...
...to make sure the handle cleared when the valve was turned on and off. After that I installed all new heater hoses and used factory style Corbin spring clamps.
So here it is, installation complete. This valve is solidly held in place by the intake, it is small and so it's unobtrusive, no permanent alterations need be made to the car - it's all reversible, and has a chrome finish for durability. If I need heat in the car it's easy enough to turn the valve on to allow coolant flow to the heater core. While some transient heat will travel up the bottom, heater outlet hose, without actual coolant circulation, the heater core temperatures should be much lower. With it turned off this summer, the car should be much cooler inside.
Thomas
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
Ran into a problem that Kroil would not budge - the 1/2" pipe thread spark plugs on the old car. Tweaked 3 wrenches trying.
Started thinking on it a bit - I've been using Synthetic 0W20 motor oil (Valvoline or Mobil 1) on various pieces of steel I don't want rusted mid-job (like gun barrels and actions), it actually has a very slight de-rusting effect... anyway, tried something different - put a "dollop" of the 0W20 around the base of the plugs at the head, then followed it with a dollop of Kroil.
15 minutes later - the plugs - while tight - came out. My guess is the kroil thinned the 0W20 and allowed it to creep down into the threads *and* lube them up.
Love my Kroil. Miracle in a squirt can!
Started thinking on it a bit - I've been using Synthetic 0W20 motor oil (Valvoline or Mobil 1) on various pieces of steel I don't want rusted mid-job (like gun barrels and actions), it actually has a very slight de-rusting effect... anyway, tried something different - put a "dollop" of the 0W20 around the base of the plugs at the head, then followed it with a dollop of Kroil.
15 minutes later - the plugs - while tight - came out. My guess is the kroil thinned the 0W20 and allowed it to creep down into the threads *and* lube them up.
Love my Kroil. Miracle in a squirt can!
HOTFR8
Banned
Thomas,
Why did you not use one of these ?
With a knob inside the car to pull out or push in to turn on and off.
Why did you not use one of these ?
With a knob inside the car to pull out or push in to turn on and off.
I think they make a Kroil w/ silocone.
impala4speed
Well-known member
Re: Heater Core Shut-Off Valve Installation
Great idea and a nice detailed description Thomas. Never thought about this but will now have to do it on my S10. Thanks Thomas.
Also love the Kroil.
Great idea and a nice detailed description Thomas. Never thought about this but will now have to do it on my S10. Thanks Thomas.
Also love the Kroil.
Motown 454
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2008
- Messages
- 1,359
I love coming here to check out what's new. Good idea.
eseibel67
Member
My guess is that these cars don't get driven in then cold very often so the valve will normally stay closed. For the rare occasion where heat might be needed, the little unobtrusive valve underhood is easy to open. It might be a good idea however to purposely circulate water through the core a couple times a year just to keep the valve free and the water in the heater mixed with the rest.
Keep an eye on your temps Thomas. Not sure about the early vettes but on later cars this can cause an overheating issue since the heater core is considered part of the cooling system and cutting it out reduces the cooling of the engine.
mackwrench
Well-known member
The heater acts as a coolant bypass for the thermostat until the engine warms up enough to open the thermostat. .....
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Thanks for posting the picture and you're most welcome. That jig is simple enough and easy to use and it helps out keeping everything square. It really speeds the process up don't you think?
Thomas
Thomas,
Why did you not use one of these ?
With a knob inside the car to pull out or push in to turn on and off.
That's a fair question HOTFR8. With the car being a Corvette that I want to keep as original as possible I'd be reluctant to drill holes to secure the valve in the engine compartment and drill a hole through the firewall for the cable to pass through and then mount the control knob under the dash. My setup is completely reversible in a matter of a few minutes with no permanent alterations to the car.
The other reason is only in the dead of summer, about 3 months worth, would I need the heater tuned off. The other 9 months of the year I'd have that valve open with everything operating normally. I only need to keep heat out in June, July and August for us up in the Northern Hemisphere. If I did have an unexpectedly cool evening it's easy enough to open the hood and open the valve. Well, that's my theory at least.
Ill let you know how it turns out.Thanks for the suggestion though.
Thomas
Walt, that's exactly how the system works on mid-year Corvettes with factory A/C. I didn't need to install a manual shut-off in my coupe...
...since it has factory A/C and with the heater controls set to COLD and the A/C selected ON, a vacuum actuated valve closes on the heater inlet to prevent hot coolant from going into the heater core with the A/C in use. That greatly improves the A/C efficiency and helps keep the car interior cooler.
Thomas
I am complete agreement eseibel67 about cycling that manual shut-off valve periodically and letting coolant flow through the heater core system. I should have mentioned it with the installation post. Thank you for pointing that out.
Thomas
I've already thought of that charlief1 but thanks for the reminder. For mid-year Corvettes, if the radiator is in good condition and the cooling system has been flushed and maintained periodically and is in good operating condition it should not present a problem. I also added some seals around the radiator that factory A/C cars used but non A/C cars didn't. Because of the extremely low hood line on Corvettes, the radiator is tilted back a few degrees to lower it's overall vertical height. These additional seals ensure cooling air is directed into and through the radiator, rather that spilling over or around it.
Here is the non-A/C convertible; note the space between the top of the radiator and bottom of the hood. Air can spill over the top of the radiator and go through that space rather than go through the radiator itself. To prevent that from happening...
...from the factory, that space between the top of the radiator and the bottom of the hood was sealed with a vinyl strip. This would force more air through the radiator and not allow it to move over the top of the radiator. They also did the same sort of thing on the bottom of the radiator to seal it down there as well. Cars with A/C had additional cooling demands on them so that's why the factory used these extra seals. To save costs, non A/C cars didn't get those additional seals but I have now added them to the convertible to ensure it gets plenty of airflow through the radiator. Check back with me in August to see how well it works.
Thomas
When you get to the point of flushing the system out use dawn dishwashing liquid. I had it recommended to me once and had a really nasty car to do. I couldn't believe it did more than the normal flush you buy, but it did. I actually saw chunks of rust and all kinds of **** come out of the system by using it. It seems to break up the rust scale better and remove impurities like you can't imagine.
jbmatth
Well-known member
Thomas,
I'm not greatly familiar with the cooling system on early GM vehicles but from MackWrench has mentioned could this cause a problem? When first started the thermostat is shut and the water pump is in motion, it tries to circulate via the radiator and the heater core. With the thermostat shut the only path to relieve pressure would be the heater core. If that valve is shut would it cause problem with dead heading the pump. Perhaps these water pumps have the means to circulate internally and not cause damage, but I know with the pumps I deal with on an industrial scale they would be destroyed in short order.
If I am missing something or wrong please let me know I'm always eager to learn and love this idea even if I can't apply it to my cobra kit car. (No heater core, or A/C, or radio, or power brakes, or power steering for that matter.) This does make me think though, my car has the heater outlets blocked, perhaps I should loop them instead. Have a great day,
JB
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C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Guys, most engines (that I am aware of) have a built-in bypass for the water pump. jbmatth, if your Cobra engine is a small block, there is an "L" shaped hose going from the water pump to the thermostat housing. That's the bypass hose. If it's an FE motor, that 3" straight hose between the intake manifold & water pump is your bypass hose.
On the small block Chevy, the bypass is internal...through the hole circled here in red. BTW, I'm just using this pic for reference, I'm not affiliated with the company.
On the small block Chevy, the bypass is internal...through the hole circled here in red. BTW, I'm just using this pic for reference, I'm not affiliated with the company.
That's really cool, I've never heard of that! How long does it take to flush out the soap residue?
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realvc
Well-known member
Some old cars and trucks had a similar manual cut off to the heater core back in the day.
The air cond. cars had the vacuum and cable operated heat control valves as shown by Thomas.
If we hang around the Center of the Universe long enough there will not be anything left for us to learn.
Vince
The air cond. cars had the vacuum and cable operated heat control valves as shown by Thomas.
If we hang around the Center of the Universe long enough there will not be anything left for us to learn.
Vince
eseibel67
Member
If you have your heart set on it here's your chance. It's going on Ebay shortly (#121632997091 - I think). I'm simplifying my life some more and it needs to find a new home. I'd assist you get it shipped to the UK. I'd wager there aren't many left hand drives ones over there.
Anyway, I don't use it very much so like the '66 Lincoln, it's time for it to become some other deserving person's pride and joy.
Thomas
Guys, most engines (that I am aware of) have a built-in bypass for the water pump. jbmatth, if your Cobra engine is a small block, there is an "L" shaped hose going from the water pump to the thermostat housing. That's the bypass hose. If it's an FE motor, that 3" straight hose between the intake manifold & water pump is your bypass hose.
On the small block Chevy, the bypass is internal...through the hole circled here in red. BTW, I'm just using this pic for reference, I'm not affiliated with the company.
That's really cool, I've never heard of that! How long does it take to flush out the soap residue?
I've also heard vinegar works well as a flushing agent but I've never tried it. I flush mine often enough I rarely get much sediment build up. I not only flush the radiator, but the engine block too. On V-8 engines, there are 2 drain plugs- 1 per side- to allow you to drain the block. Those are just as important to flush as the radiator.
Here's one of the block drains just above the starter. (the plug has been removed) I put a plastic bag over the starter to keep it dry while I flushed the block. The white arrow is just pointing to the ignition shielding that I had to move out of the way to access that drain hole.
So here I am draining the radiator (on the right) and at the same time, draining one side of the engine.
The block will hold about a gallon of coolant. The only way to get all the sediment out of the engine is through those block drain holes.
This might be a good time to mention when replacing anti-freeze, if you're mixing it yourself 50-50, use distilled water and not tap water. It only costs about $1.00 a gallon (you'll probably need about 1 1/2 gallons) and doesn't put minerals into the coolant the way tap water might. Much healthier for your engine.
Thomas
Some old cars and trucks had a similar manual cut off to the heater core back in the day.
The air cond. cars had the vacuum and cable operated heat control valves as shown by Thomas.
If we hang around the Center of the Universe long enough there will not be anything left for us to learn.
Vince
Vince I'm fairly certain reading this thread from beginning to the eventual end (ha!) will be the equivalent to a college education, just much more fun and cheaper too!
Thomas
As usual you guys beat me to the punch. Yup, the by-pass is internal so no worries about cavitation in the pump.
Those who have done a similar type manual heater hose shut-off report it make a big difference in the summer, keeping the interior of non-A/C cars much cooler. Well, that's the plan anyway.
Thomas
jbmatth
Well-known member
C_F,
Thank you for the information, I'd forgotten that hose was there, but you are correct. No worries then, that engine will be able to live on for years to come.
JB
Thank you for the information, I'd forgotten that hose was there, but you are correct. No worries then, that engine will be able to live on for years to come.
JB
Here's a Walker Floor Jack on Craig's list located in Warrensburg, Illinois:
https://decatur.craigslist.org/tls/4994566163.html
It looks complete and the ad says it works but bleeds down. It looks to be a little newer than mine and not quite as stylish. I'm going to guess it's a 1960's vintage. With a re-built power cylinder and some TLC you could have a nice, solid, quality piece of equipment.
Full disclosure; I have no connection or knowledge of the seller. This ad was brought to my attention and so I'm passing the information along.
Thomas
https://decatur.craigslist.org/tls/4994566163.html
It looks complete and the ad says it works but bleeds down. It looks to be a little newer than mine and not quite as stylish. I'm going to guess it's a 1960's vintage. With a re-built power cylinder and some TLC you could have a nice, solid, quality piece of equipment.
Full disclosure; I have no connection or knowledge of the seller. This ad was brought to my attention and so I'm passing the information along.
Thomas
dubber
Well-known member
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mitsubishi-...=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557&rmvSB=true
Wow is that thing ever clean! Good luck with sale. Saw a cross post from Jalopnik.
Wow is that thing ever clean! Good luck with sale. Saw a cross post from Jalopnik.
Thanks dubber, no question it is clean. I think vehicles run better when they're clean don't you?
There was a thread on Jalopnik about the car. Wow, reading some of those posts was painful. Quite a bit of misinformation wound up getting posted. If you read it on the internet it must be true right? The power of the internet. It can be a tool for good..........and, well..... not so much
The sale went fine, the new owner is very happy he got the car.. I'm waiting for a transport company to pick it up.
Thomas
Is that a MarkVIII I see in the background there?
BTW, this thread is what got me on GJ. Totally awesome restore/build thread.
Is that a MarkVIII I see in the background there?
BTW, this thread is what got me on GJ. Totally awesome restore/build thread.
Yes, that's Chris's beloved...
...MK VIII. You don't see too many of them anymore. On the other side of the VR-4 you can see parts of...
...one of my '64 Impala Super Sports. That's my 4 speed, factory air car.
Sharp eye pablo94sc picking out the Mark VIII and thank you for your kind words about the shop. We're coming up on the 10 year anniversary of starting the shop rescue. I find that hard to believe. I love every minute I spend out there.
Thomas
dcm5652
Active member
I have seen her Mark VIII at a Lincoln Club meet and show and it is as near new as you will find.
