Boosted1
Well-known member
Thanks for all the updates. Still enjoying this thread.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Restored 1930's Auto Shop
- Thread starter BB767
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
More Gus Service Updates 3.0
Continuing with Gus service work...
...when the radiator was removed to have it checked out, these sharp corners on the shroud were spotted. They could cut you very easily so...
....they were trimmed as seen with aviation snipes and then filed smooth. Much safer this way. The radiator was cleaned out and pressure tested by our local radiator repair shop. He found two small leaks that were repaired...
...and an old soldering joint that needed repaired also. Replacing the old the radiator cap with a new one and a proper overflow hose, the radiator was now good to go.
When I purchased Gus I noted to myself a number of items that weren't right but I knew they could be corrected so that didn't stop me from buying him. In fact I never mentioned any of them to the seller. I was just happy to be able to buy him.
One of the items that wasn't correct was the outlet heater hose, circled, for the cab heater.
The heater hose coming out of the cylinder head had a severe kink in it as seen.
I doubt much coolant could flow through that kink! To remedy that...
...a brass street elbow was installed with a hose bib installed on the outlet side of the fitting.
Additionally, since there wasn't room to install a street elbow on the lower heater hose, a 90º pipe fitting was installed with a short ****** on the outlet. Now both of the heater hoses were pointed in the correct direction as they exited the engine and water pump respectively.
Next a bracket was fabricated on which hose clamps were installed so the heater hoses wouldn't be flapping in the breeze.
With coolant now able to flow to the heater it was very warm in the interior so...
...a shut off valve was installed on the inlet heater hose.
This was the radiator before I removed it. Note the old radiator cap. That support being pointed out was just a piece of all thread rod. It was too long and didn't look appropriate so it was shortened and then...
... the all thread rod was covered with a piece of fuel hose.
This was strictly for cosmetics but I think an easy improvement. Also note the new cap and overflow hose.
To finish off servicing the coolant system, the heater core and engine block were flushed out and new coolant used. New radiator hoses were also installed. I managed to find a non-ribbed top hose to replace the ribbed, universal hose that was previously used.
I still need to install filler strips between the grill and the radiator shroud to improve airflow through the radiator, but so far, Gus is one cool cat!
To be continued. Thanks everyone.
Thomas
Continuing with Gus service work...
...when the radiator was removed to have it checked out, these sharp corners on the shroud were spotted. They could cut you very easily so...
....they were trimmed as seen with aviation snipes and then filed smooth. Much safer this way. The radiator was cleaned out and pressure tested by our local radiator repair shop. He found two small leaks that were repaired...
...and an old soldering joint that needed repaired also. Replacing the old the radiator cap with a new one and a proper overflow hose, the radiator was now good to go.
When I purchased Gus I noted to myself a number of items that weren't right but I knew they could be corrected so that didn't stop me from buying him. In fact I never mentioned any of them to the seller. I was just happy to be able to buy him.
One of the items that wasn't correct was the outlet heater hose, circled, for the cab heater.
The heater hose coming out of the cylinder head had a severe kink in it as seen.
I doubt much coolant could flow through that kink! To remedy that...
...a brass street elbow was installed with a hose bib installed on the outlet side of the fitting.
Additionally, since there wasn't room to install a street elbow on the lower heater hose, a 90º pipe fitting was installed with a short ****** on the outlet. Now both of the heater hoses were pointed in the correct direction as they exited the engine and water pump respectively.
Next a bracket was fabricated on which hose clamps were installed so the heater hoses wouldn't be flapping in the breeze.
With coolant now able to flow to the heater it was very warm in the interior so...
...a shut off valve was installed on the inlet heater hose.
This was the radiator before I removed it. Note the old radiator cap. That support being pointed out was just a piece of all thread rod. It was too long and didn't look appropriate so it was shortened and then...
... the all thread rod was covered with a piece of fuel hose.
This was strictly for cosmetics but I think an easy improvement. Also note the new cap and overflow hose.
To finish off servicing the coolant system, the heater core and engine block were flushed out and new coolant used. New radiator hoses were also installed. I managed to find a non-ribbed top hose to replace the ribbed, universal hose that was previously used.
I still need to install filler strips between the grill and the radiator shroud to improve airflow through the radiator, but so far, Gus is one cool cat!
To be continued. Thanks everyone.
Thomas
stillp
Well-known member
Thanks for the update Thomas, I was getting withdrawal symptoms!
Pete
Pete
rmalkow2
Well-known member
Some very thoughtful and practical updates to good ole Gus. Thanks for keeping us up to date.
Boosted1
Well-known member
All those little improvements are making Gus very good.
Heater hose job looks mucho better than what was there.
I see you added a high flow/High Hp air filter!
Heater hose job looks mucho better than what was there.
I see you added a high flow/High Hp air filter!
DoorBreaker
Active member
Fluidfilm is a lanolin based spray on protectant not a rust converter. In use you knock off any loose crusty rust, or wire brush it. Then you apply the Fluidfilm. It absorbs into the rust and the carrier evaporates and you get a layer of lanolin and paraffin left behind.
If you have used white lithium grease it is very similar except the fluid film goes on almost clear. It works great on things like the blower, bucket and such. I buy it in a 5 gallon bucket and spray it on using a cheap pressure feed spray gun.
Gus will be all set for cold weather.
If you have used white lithium grease it is very similar except the fluid film goes on almost clear. It works great on things like the blower, bucket and such. I buy it in a 5 gallon bucket and spray it on using a cheap pressure feed spray gun.
Gus will be all set for cold weather.
Mills E
Member
Way Cool!! Nice Job
realvc
Well-known member
Hello Thomas
I thought I recognized your Nova in the October issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines on page 34. Then as I read the caption of the picture confirming it is you and your Nova it became even more clear, the ambassador of Center of the Universe is everywhere!
Thanks for the many hours of enjoyment from you and Chris and everyone in your thread.
Vince
I thought I recognized your Nova in the October issue of Hemmings Muscle Machines on page 34. Then as I read the caption of the picture confirming it is you and your Nova it became even more clear, the ambassador of Center of the Universe is everywhere!
Thanks for the many hours of enjoyment from you and Chris and everyone in your thread.
Vince
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Vince you are more than welcome. It's been apparent this thread has been fun for a lot of folks and it certainly has for Chris and myself. Probably the #1 reason it's still going for nearly 6 years now. Everyone has contributed to make this thread a pretty special place to stop by every so often for a visit. Wish you all could visit the shop and the Center of the Universe in person. That's always a bunch of fun for us.
(Thomas Payne and his Chevy II Series 100 model are longtime participants in muscle car racing. Although not an original L-79 car, Payne built it to the specs required for stock muscle car racing-and the engine is an original L-79 327. With its M-21 close ratio four-speed and 4.11 gears, it has run in the 12's.)
I was reading that Hemmings issue last week and came upon this article and picture. Now that was a surprise. I had no idea they were going to use my little Chevy II in an article about Factory Stock Drag Racing. Very cool that some editor thought a humble, small block 327 Chevy II could be considered a Muscle Machine. Especially when you consider that the red car I'm racing against in the background is a '69 Hemi Road Runner, the mother of all muscle cars! We had qualified within .008 sec of each other and on that particular run I managed to hold him off for the win. David vrs Goliath...... again!
Steve, the owner of the RR, is a really great fellow that I've known for a couple years now and like me, does this all for the sheer joy of it. It just doesn't get any better than this.......'cause if you're not having fun, what's the point? 
Next up. Stanton, Michigan, September 18-19th. Be there or be square!
A Centered Thomas
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How To Fabricate Double Flares For Brake Lines
For those who have thought about making their own brake lines, especially if pre-made ones are not available (like on a 1948 Jeep pickup truck for example!) here's a quick tutorial on creating the double flares necessary.
A double flaring set can be very inexpensive. I bought this set used, but like new, on e-bay for under $10 a few years ago. For most automotive applications you'll only need 3/16"/4.74mm or 1/4"/6.35mm lines.
Secure the jig in a vise and before clamping the brake line in the jig, remember to slide the appropriate threaded fittings onto the line since you can't do that once it's flared, not that I've ever forgotten to put the fitting on before flaring! Position the line so it's even with the step on the die. That step is shown by the red arrow on the left and the yellow arrow on the right shows the brake line positioned even with that step. Clamp the line very securely and then turn the die over, placing the blue circled tip of the die into the line...
...so it looks like this. Note how the clamping wing nuts are designed to use the bar handle to tighten them up. You'll never get them tight enough just using your hands to tighten them.
Next place the flaring tool over the die as shown and tighten it. This produces the first flare...
...which will look like this when the die is removed.
With the die removed, place the flaring tool back onto the line as seen and retighten it again. This second step is creating the double flare...
...like this. With the line removed from the jig...
...you'll have a perfect double flare. Easy peasy.
When you are installing newly flared lines, you'll likely have to really bear down on tightening the fittings and always use a line wrench to prevent rounding the shoulders on the fittings.
Here's a look at many of the various brake components that were renewed on Gus. From a new master cylinder and brake light switch, all new hard and flexible lines, wheel cylinders, brake shoes and grease seals every single brake component was redone. It gives me a lot of confidence when I'm tearing along at a breath taking 40 mph that I'll be able to stop.
Fabricating your lines and flares is not a difficult task and I suspect you'll find it very rewarding.
More Gus service work is coming if you can stand it.
Thomas
For those who have thought about making their own brake lines, especially if pre-made ones are not available (like on a 1948 Jeep pickup truck for example!) here's a quick tutorial on creating the double flares necessary.
A double flaring set can be very inexpensive. I bought this set used, but like new, on e-bay for under $10 a few years ago. For most automotive applications you'll only need 3/16"/4.74mm or 1/4"/6.35mm lines.
Secure the jig in a vise and before clamping the brake line in the jig, remember to slide the appropriate threaded fittings onto the line since you can't do that once it's flared, not that I've ever forgotten to put the fitting on before flaring!
Position the line so it's even with the step on the die. That step is shown by the red arrow on the left and the yellow arrow on the right shows the brake line positioned even with that step. Clamp the line very securely and then turn the die over, placing the blue circled tip of the die into the line...
...so it looks like this. Note how the clamping wing nuts are designed to use the bar handle to tighten them up. You'll never get them tight enough just using your hands to tighten them.
Next place the flaring tool over the die as shown and tighten it. This produces the first flare...
...which will look like this when the die is removed.
With the die removed, place the flaring tool back onto the line as seen and retighten it again. This second step is creating the double flare...
...like this. With the line removed from the jig...
...you'll have a perfect double flare. Easy peasy.
When you are installing newly flared lines, you'll likely have to really bear down on tightening the fittings and always use a line wrench to prevent rounding the shoulders on the fittings.
Here's a look at many of the various brake components that were renewed on Gus. From a new master cylinder and brake light switch, all new hard and flexible lines, wheel cylinders, brake shoes and grease seals every single brake component was redone. It gives me a lot of confidence when I'm tearing along at a breath taking 40 mph that I'll be able to stop.
Fabricating your lines and flares is not a difficult task and I suspect you'll find it very rewarding.
More Gus service work is coming if you can stand it.
Thomas
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Thomas -
Thanks for the tutorial on double flares. Love all the Gus service work. Keep it coming.
Scott W.
President, Southern Italy "Restored 1930's Auto Shop" Thread Fan Club
Thanks for the tutorial on double flares. Love all the Gus service work. Keep it coming.
Scott W.
President, Southern Italy "Restored 1930's Auto Shop" Thread Fan Club
stillp
Well-known member
Thomas, thanks for another informative and entertaining post. Keep 'em coming!
The flaring kit I looked at some years ago used a rotary die to 'roll' the flare. I can't see any advantage in that, except perhaps reduced effort needed. I found an unused copper brake pipe kit for my TR4A at an autojumble at half the new price, so I bought that instead. Copper has the advantage of being easy to bend to shape on the car, as well as rust resistance.
Thinking of your pre-retirement 'day job' Thomas, do you have any comments on the BA 777 that caught fire at Las Vegas?
Pete
The flaring kit I looked at some years ago used a rotary die to 'roll' the flare. I can't see any advantage in that, except perhaps reduced effort needed. I found an unused copper brake pipe kit for my TR4A at an autojumble at half the new price, so I bought that instead. Copper has the advantage of being easy to bend to shape on the car, as well as rust resistance.
Thinking of your pre-retirement 'day job' Thomas, do you have any comments on the BA 777 that caught fire at Las Vegas?
Pete
MacTexas
Well-known member
The most important step in the entire process "remember to slide the appropriate threaded fittings onto the line since you can't do that once it's flared, not that I've ever forgotten to put the fitting on before flaring!"
I am guilty of forgetting it more than once!
I am guilty of forgetting it more than once!
1949 caddyman
Well-known member
^^^^^ you beat me to it!
harley jim
Well-known member
me too
Hemihead2
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Don't know if anyone else has used this, but I found that a small drop of 3 in 1 oil on the final step of the double flare could guarantee a successful result.
Thank you Scott. BTW, I am just now observing your exulted position as "President, Southern Italy "Restored 1930's Auto Shop" Thread Fan Club"
I think congratulations are in order for you sir for a job well done.
It's nice to know that local chapter has such fine leadership. I take great comfort in that. Thomas
You're right Pete, copper is much, much easier to work with. Terribly expensive these days so at 1/2 price you did quite well.
As for your countryman's performance in Las Vegas, that was job well done indeed!
A catastrophic engine failure of that sort is exceptionally rare but aircrews crews train for them constantly. We always brief the cabin crew on what their respective roles will be when in case of an emergency we first meet for a flight and the cockpit crew always gives a short brief to each other before every takeoff describing what actions will be taken in case of an aborted takeoff and evacuation. All that attention to detail pays off as we saw in that incident.I note it was the lead pilots second to last fight before he retired. It's amazing how often a pilot will go though an entire career without any major problems only to have some unwanted excitement at or very near the end of their career.
I was keenly aware of this phenomenon as I neared my retirement. That evacuation was a team effort and everyone involved should be very proud of themselves.
Thomas
And of course the corollary to that is placing the fitting on in the correct orientation...........not that I ever put one on backward mind you.
Thomas
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Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'm pretty sure the Never Forgot to Put the Correctly Oriented Threaded Fitting on First Club is extremely small and exclusive. I am not a member and am permanently barred from even applying. Something to do with putting both fittings backwards on a single tube. :tard:
Now that takes some real talent Bob. I just bet you're the only person to ever do that........oh wait a moment,......I'm having a hazy flashback just now.........nope, the moments gone. I only do crooked switch plate covers; that and slide the threaded fitting down the line and then put a bend in it so tight the fitting won't slide back up around the bend to the flared end. Duh.......
Been There Done That Thomas
Craptain
Well-known member
This morning I had never heard of double flaring. Then whilst browsing in a junk store I saw and bought a Mac double flaring set. After learning about it I wish I had one earlier.
Thank you Thomas.
Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
Thank you Thomas.
Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk
Gingger22pm
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2013
- Messages
- 38
Thank goodness I'm a professional and have, obviously, NEVER done all of these things. Nor have I ever happily made and bent the perfect pipe only to try and fit it at which point I realise I got a bit carried away and forgot I didn't need two males fittings on my pipe but a male and a female......
I personally have not heard of doing that Mike but it makes good sense. Many thanks for the great tip. I suspect that might indeed be on the test!
Thomas
You are most welcome Andrew. I sometimes wonder about some of my posts. I think the material might be kind of uninteresting and question whether I should post or not. In the end I usually figure folks will just skip over it if it's not to their liking. Comments like yours reaffirms my thought that someone will likely benefit from my babbling here. You likely won't use that double flaring set all that often but when you need it, well.....you need it.
Thomas
Apparently I have plenty of company out there.
If a process could be done wrong I'm likely the poster child for having done so at least once. But I am trainable and try to limit the damage.............Thomas
Lyndon
Well-known member
Ok Thomas, sorry to change the subject, but the "BS" is where, now?
Am I officially nagging now?
Lyndon
A magnificent early spring day in Sydney (after a run to the National Motor Racing Museum at Bathurst in the XJR....)
Am I officially nagging now?
Lyndon
A magnificent early spring day in Sydney (after a run to the National Motor Racing Museum at Bathurst in the XJR....)
xtremek
Well-known member
Couldn't you just turn the line around?
Sorry I just had to do it. And yes, I belong to the "Missing, wrong way, tube bend to tight, fitting club".Ok Thomas, sorry to change the subject, but the "BS" is where, now?
Am I officially nagging now?
Lyndon
A magnificent early spring day in Sydney (after a run to the National Motor Racing Museum at Bathurst in the XJR....)
Not at all Lyndon, you're just understandably anxious!
Dom still has it in the UK and I rather suspect, ahem......he's almost done with it. He's the last over in Europe to read it so it's coming back to me, ahem again......soon I should think. There are just a few here in the USA that are ahead of the Australian and New Zealand contingent but I expect any day now to be hearing from Dom that it's on its way, back across the pond and ultimately down under to you.Patience grasshopper, patience.
Thomas
Beltsville Shell 2nd Printing
Interestingly enough, no sooner than I replied to Lyndon about BS 1.0 I received this email from author Cary Thomas:
***************************************************************
Hello everyone,
I am sending this message to you because I believe you wanted to be informed about the second printing of Beltsville Shell: You Are What You Drive.
This message is to let you know that the second printing will be completed in a few days.
We are taking orders now. The 2nd printing is the exact book as the original (except for a few typo corrections) but with improved paper quality, a brighter finish, and sharper print imaging (after all, technology in the printing industry has improved a lot in 10 years)! Special Thanks to Angel Printing in Oceanside, California for the excellent production quality.
Details can be found here:
http://www.beltsvilleshell.com/buynow.html
If you are interested in ordering a book please send a check made payable to Nancy Paul Thomas and mail it to 3581 Seaview Way, Carlsbad, CA 92008. The price is $19.95 plus $3.00 for shipping and handling, for a total of $22.95 each. Please specify if you want the book autographed and/or inscribed as a gift.
If, instead, you want to buy a copy from Amazon, the Amazon link is here:
http://amzn.com/0974575704
So for those who wish for their very own copy now you can. Meanwhile BS 1.0 is still available for recirculation among our friends here........once ahem......Dom finishes with it of course.
Thomas
Interestingly enough, no sooner than I replied to Lyndon about BS 1.0 I received this email from author Cary Thomas:
***************************************************************
Hello everyone,
I am sending this message to you because I believe you wanted to be informed about the second printing of Beltsville Shell: You Are What You Drive.
This message is to let you know that the second printing will be completed in a few days.
We are taking orders now. The 2nd printing is the exact book as the original (except for a few typo corrections) but with improved paper quality, a brighter finish, and sharper print imaging (after all, technology in the printing industry has improved a lot in 10 years)! Special Thanks to Angel Printing in Oceanside, California for the excellent production quality.
Details can be found here:
http://www.beltsvilleshell.com/buynow.html
If you are interested in ordering a book please send a check made payable to Nancy Paul Thomas and mail it to 3581 Seaview Way, Carlsbad, CA 92008. The price is $19.95 plus $3.00 for shipping and handling, for a total of $22.95 each. Please specify if you want the book autographed and/or inscribed as a gift.
If, instead, you want to buy a copy from Amazon, the Amazon link is here:
http://amzn.com/0974575704
So for those who wish for their very own copy now you can. Meanwhile BS 1.0 is still available for recirculation among our friends here........once ahem......Dom finishes with it of course.
Thomas
scramboleer
Active member
I love all of the uppdates (and how-to's) on Gus. Keep 'em comin'.
Cheers from San Francisco,
Scramboleer
Cheers from San Francisco,
Scramboleer
Zeke
Well-known member
Thanks, Thomas, I just bought a copy.
Lyndon
Well-known member
Thomas
I was at our National Motor Racing Museum over weekend (a short 190 km - 118 miles - run from here in Sydney, in the XJR in convoy with about 20 other Jags), and the 1st exhibit I saw immediately reminded me of the Centre of the Universe (on your side of the world - I know where it is down here).
A Hudson Terraplane racing car version from the 1930's.... Looks a little bit better than the one you have; not a tree to be seen around it.
I thought I take a photo of it for you, and it's accompanying explanation sign.
Lyndon
A magnificent, if somewhat smoky, Sydney spring morning.
I was at our National Motor Racing Museum over weekend (a short 190 km - 118 miles - run from here in Sydney, in the XJR in convoy with about 20 other Jags), and the 1st exhibit I saw immediately reminded me of the Centre of the Universe (on your side of the world - I know where it is down here).
A Hudson Terraplane racing car version from the 1930's.... Looks a little bit better than the one you have; not a tree to be seen around it.
I thought I take a photo of it for you, and it's accompanying explanation sign.
Lyndon
A magnificent, if somewhat smoky, Sydney spring morning.
Attachments
Thomas
I was at our National Motor Racing Museum over weekend (a short 190 km - 118 miles - run from here in Sydney, in the XJR in convoy with about 20 other Jags), and the 1st exhibit I saw immediately reminded me of the Centre of the Universe (on your side of the world - I know where it is down here).
A Hudson Terraplane racing car version from the 1930's.... Looks a little bit better than the one you have; not a tree to be seen around it.
I thought I take a photo of it for you, and it's accompanying explanation sign.
Lyndon
A magnificent, if somewhat smoky, Sydney spring morning.
Now that is interesting Lyndon. I'm curious what part of that car is from a 1937 Terraplane though. It looks completely custom but is extremely cool.
Lou and I made a road trip this summer to the Hudson Museum (Terraplanes were made by Hudson Motor Corp.) located in Shipshewana, Indiana. I wanted specifically to take some pictures of a 1937 Terraplane and post them, so........
...here is a stock 1937 Terraplane...
If you look at the distinctive shift lever attachment casting...
...you'd recognize it on mine. Now look at the engine...
...and you'll see what it looked like back "in the day" when it was new. I bet the proud owner of it in 1937 never guessed it would wind up as yard art next to Mr Johnson's shop!
Thomas
Thanks Scramboleer, I had new tubes installed in all 5 tires today and also had the front end alignment checked. Gus's frame and front end were pronounced "as straight as a string." The only minor adjustment was changing the toe-in 1/4º. That was it!
I do need to remove the steering wheel and re-install it so it's straight when Gus's tires are pointed straight ahead. I drove a total of 45 miles on Gus today, the most I've ever driven in him at one time including several miles of driving in big city traffic.
I've done additional service work which I'll post about shortly. Gus is running and driving like a champ and getting thumbs up wherever he goes!
Thomas
Congratulations Zeke, you must have gotten one of the first ones printed. Way to go. I'm very confident you'll have fun reading it.
Thomas
Lyndon
Well-known member
Now that is interesting Lyndon. I'm curious what part of that car is from a 1937 Terraplane though. It looks completely custom but is extremely cool.
Lou and I made a road trip this summer to the Hudson Museum (Terraplanes were made by Hudson Motor Corp.) located in Shipshewana, Indiana. I wanted specifically to take some pictures of a 1937 Terraplane and post them, so........
...and you'll see what it looked like back "in the day" when it was new. I bet the proud owner of it in 1937 never guessed it would wind up as yard art next to Mr Johnson's shop!
Thomas
Thomas
This link may not be to the actual car in the museum, but it gives an idea of how they (H/Terraplanes) became racing (& trials) cars down here:
http://acms.sl.nsw.gov.au/item/itemDetailPaged.aspx?itemID=19164[/URL]
Lyndon
Sneaking a look in at GJ at work - shhh
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Ditto.
merr6267
Well-known member
How's the racing in Stanton?
Are you planning to be there tomorrow? It looks like there is a little rain in the forecast, but I'm planning to spectate with my little boy for a bit.
Maybe we'll see you?
Phill
Are you planning to be there tomorrow? It looks like there is a little rain in the forecast, but I'm planning to spectate with my little boy for a bit.
Maybe we'll see you?
Phill
The weather cleared up beautifully today. We managed a full day of qualifying without a hint of rain. Totally unexpected but very welcomed. Might be a little rain early in the morning but it's expected to clear up nicely and we don't think we'll have any problems. We had 106 cars running today which is down a bit but overall a very satisfying day of racing with a nice group of friends.
Our pit area (my trailer is black) is toward the back row and next to the staging lanes. During the shoot outs they always take a break between rounds with all the cars paired up in the staging lanes. Please feel free to stop by either place to say hi and if your son would like it, I'll put him in the car with my helmet on him for pictures if he'd like that. I like getting kids involved with something other than video games or texting all the time!
Keep in mind there is another almost identical '66 Chevy II.
About the only way to readily tell us apart is, Jeff has black wall tires and hub caps on his car (seen on the right) and I have red line tires and no hub caps. I'm car # 066, Illinois license plate "4 Drags".
You'll recognize me 'cause I'm the one with the big grin on my face and why not. I'm still happily married to the girl of my dreams and I'm getting to play with cars with all my friends.
Look forward to seeing you both there.
Thomas
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merr6267
Well-known member
Thomas, it was a pleasure to finally meet you, and Deacon thoroughly enjoyed "driving" your little small block Chevy II.
Here are some pics of him in the driver's seat, rowing his own.
Here are some pics of him in the driver's seat, rowing his own.
hobbitss
Well-known member
merr6267
Well-known member
Clutch-less up-shifts and heel-toe down-shifts. [emoji6]Is he double clutching?
Saguenay Bill
Member
Here's a follow up to that...
"STUART JOHNSON" on one side ( I doubt any relation-but hey- who knows!!
"LAKE GENEVA" on the other. The opening in 4 1/2". The smaller wrench...
"KENOSHA WISCONSIN" (home to Snap-On Tools I might point out) and is blank, I recall, on the other side. It's opening is 2 1/2"
Thomas
Just seeing this now. It may be answered but those are wrenches used for sanitary pipe, the old bevel seat fittings used in milk plants. When I was a young man, in the 50's, I was brought up in a milk plant and used them everyday. What memories they bring back to me.