Shop Railing
Here are details on the railing that I fabricated for the old shop.
3 rectangular section were made. This is the outer section closest to the shop.
All sections were TIG welded for better control of heat and a neater overall appearance plus I've got a swell Miller TIG welder. The square tubing was 1.5" (3.8 cm) square and the top hand rail was 2" (5 cm) wide. The outer 2 sections had legs...
...that were 42" (107 cm) long. All sections were sealed up including...
...the ends of the legs. That would keep moisture out of the sections and prevent them from rusting from the inside out. Since I was going to powder coat them (surprise!

) I had to install hanging tabs on them. That was so they had a means to hang them from during the powder coating process without the hanging wire disturbing the power coat on the finished surfaces. The tabs were placed low enough so that when the railing was installed, the tabs would be below ground level and not seen.
The center section didn't have legs. It was bolted to the 2 outer sections.
Tabs to bolt the sections together was fabricated...
...out of bar stock. After the layout was done, the bolt holes were drilled first and then they were cut to length and also...
...cut partially though where they would be bent.
Each tab was placed in the vise with the bottom part...
...slightly proud to the vise jaws. Now they could be bent over easily. Once bent to the correct angle, the cut bend joint was then weld filled.
To find out where the tabs should be placed and get the correct angles on the tabs, the 2 outer rectangular sections were placed in the ground and the center section was clamped to them. Note: to compensate for the sloping elevation change in the ground, I made the center section a parallelogram and that worked out nicely.
Here's a closeup of this clamping process. There were several surfaces that all had to be lined up to mark placement of the tabs and get them bent to the correct angle.
Here's a look after the tabs were bent and installed and the sections bolted together. I used these tabs to bolt everything together so there would be no holes in the railing sections, again to keep moisture and rust out of them.
To install the legs in the ground was a bit of a challenge. Here 2 pipes have been hammered into the ground to make holes for the legs. Remember the lower section of the legs was 42" long.
The legs were placed into the ground 30" (76 cm) deep. By having so much of the leg in the ground they were very rigid without having to resort to concrete to set them in.
I wanted to disturb the surrounding soil as little as possible, so to make a hole that deep and small in cross-section...
...I sledge hammered a pipe into the ground 30" deep. When I withdrew it...
...the center of the pipe brought up soil from the hole so now I had a nice 2" diameter hole into which I could install the 1.5" square leg. After a test fitting to make sure everything was lined up, plumb and fit correctly...
...the railing sections were powder coated silver and then installed carefully.
Note how nice that center parallelogram section works out with the ground slope.
To bolt the sections together I used stainless steel (SS) all-thread cut to length, SS washers and acorn nuts to give a better overall finished appearance.
By having the railing sections curve around from each other slightly also aids in giving the railing more rigidity.
You don't even want to know how much time I spent on this little project! Hours and hours and more hours but I'm extremely happy with the results. It presents a simple, neat, clean appearance that is highly functional and with luck should last decades, long after I'm gone. I'm confident Mr. Johnson would approve.
Thomas