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Above 1200 Sq/FT Restored 1930's Auto Shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.

hobbitss

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341
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Southestern Massachusetts
Placing the shelves together, back to back gives them more structural rigidity than they would have as a stand alone unit. Also it allows wider items than the shelves can accommodate to "spill" over onto the shelf behind it.

I originally used some small 2"X2" tile pieces under all the shelf legs to protect the floor. To be honest I can't recall now why I removed them :headscrat, but I do remember removing them from the shelves. I still have several pieces of equipment in the shop with tile scraps under them to protect the floor in those areas.

Yes, you should sleep as you always need to be well rested before you "dive in" here. :D Thanks for the suggestions and comments.


Thomas

Ahhh... Light dawns on Marble Head... Big stuff and bigger stuff, it all fits on the shelving, hadn't thought of that... Gotta remember to think outside of the proverbial box... I did see the Dell Box, so where is the Shop PC??

Joe
 
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markviii

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The computer is at home - internet connection inside the steel building will have to wait. Same reason there's no bed out there. He'd never get home otherwise! When he's working, he's working. I don't think he considers computer-time as "work"; it's more like "rest time" or "entertainment". Have you noticed the times he's posting? Many times, it's back-side of the clock, like his flying.

The Dell box is probably from one of my old computers. He currently has a mac; I'm strictly PC (Dell laptop; HP desktop). I had a computer business back in the 80s and dealt with both and developed curriculum and taught daily using both platforms before I retired last year.

Chris
 
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hobbitss

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Southestern Massachusetts
Here are more "items" in the tool shed.

Grindersm1.jpg


This is the shop made grinder.

Grindersm2.jpg


Side view. The bottom feet of the stand is wood.

Grindersm3.jpg


This is the back side, belt drive easily seen. The grinder wheel on the right shows they got their money's worth out it! Not much left of it. :)

Grindersm4.jpg


I haven't looked at the motor yet but it's pretty old. BTW this grinder was operational in the shop as long as I can remember as a little kid and the sound of the flat belt slapping when it was running is very distinctive. It still works, turns fairly slow. The sound of it really moves me back in time. Almost eerie the way that sound also conjures up sights and smells from back then. Shut your eyes with it running and it's like a kind of time machine, really.


itemsm6.jpg


This is an early honeycomb radiator. Guessing from the 1920's. There are no identifying marks as to the manufacturer that I've found. It's in pretty decent condition. I suppose that's why it was left.

Itemsm1.jpg


There are a bunch of items here. Gates Radiator hose display board on the left, steering column and steering wheel still attached from before 1920. I think it's from a truck, not sure. The valve cover is a Chevrolet script one.

Itemsm2.jpg


I think the blue cabinet falling over has a Walker script of some sort on it as I recall. To the left of the Gates hose display board is a red Thermoid Radiator hose display board. The curved object in front is a wood handled, horse drawn, single bottom plow. Wood is in excellent condition.

itemsm3.jpg


There's a display board that I can't remember the manufacture's name but it's for brake lines. Bendix maybe.The plow share is buried in the dirt. In the foreground what looks like two 2 X 4's next to each other is really a steel wheeled portable engine stand. They used these to move a large single cylinder engine around the farm when that was the only power source. This was before the Rural Electrification Program (REP) in the 1930's which brought electrical power to the country's farms and remote areas. With a single cylinder gas engine and belt drive, farmers were able to pump water from their wells when the wind died down, power a clothes wash machine etc. They didn't have dedicated engines back then usually, couldn't afford them. Instead they had one and moved it from task to task. In some cases farmers couldn't even afford that so engines were brought to the farm by the engine's owner and rented out to the farmer for a few hours or days. I'm sure there is someone reading this who can fill us in more on this. Anyway, that's the stand for one of those engines, pretty cool really. It's in great condition. I'll have to get better pictures of it, that's all I've got right now. Sorrrrrrry :dunno:

itemsm5.jpg


The curved wood handles of the plow seen. Two steel spoke wheels from some farm machine. They still have grease in the hubs. I'm betting they're in good condition and not too worn. Lack of grease is what usually wore them out. The dusty white angled object on the blue cabinet is an exterior sun visor for a car or truck.

itemsm8.jpg


Beside the older Studebaker radiator shell, note the old " gum ball " red emergency light in the background. There is also an illuminating red "STOP " light that was used on the back of an ambulance which is what this is from I'm told. The ambulance checked in for repairs and never checked out. It was parted out and these parts were saved.

itemsm4.jpg


Here's an old wood bench I just recently uncovered. That's a specialized vice whose name escapes me. OK, here's someone's chance to dazzle us with their vast knowledge. What kind of vice is it and what was it used for? :dunno: Don't be shy. It has a leg in the rear that goes all the way to the floor.

itemsm7.jpg


These are a bunch of old tools I rounded up. A lot of them are sockets on dedicated handles before they made interchangeable socket heads. Haven't looked to find any manufactures marks yet. All in good time. Patience grasshopper, patience. :D

Thomas

SQUIRREL!!! Oh ahhh TOOLS!!!! :drool:

Joe
 

hobbitss

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May 31, 2010
Messages
341
Location
Southestern Massachusetts
Continuing with items in the lean to or tool shed.
Another " Where's Waldo" pictures. A little bit of everything. As I start to clean out these buildings I'll get better pictures of some of the more interesting items.

ToolSm1.jpg


Here are a few more tools found.

ToolSm2.jpg


These are sockets in a wood case.

ToolSm3.jpg


More hand tools including blacksmith tools.

ToolSm4.jpg


More blacksmith specialty tools.

ToolSm5.jpg



Bucket 'O heavy duty chain with home made hooks. The hooks were cut out of about 1" thick metal using a torch.

Thomas

TOOLS!!!! No ahh Squirrels, No, Tools yeah that's it....
:Help:

Joe
 

hobbitss

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Messages
341
Location
Southestern Massachusetts
The motion detector in the link should adapt very well. Defiantly the easiest way is to find pre-made exterior electrical boxes and use those. As I said I just wasn't happy with any exterior boxes that I could find that I thought were heavy duty enough and would work those lights, so I made my own.

I have several lights around the old shop that are on motion detectors and they work like a champ. Mine illuminate normally at dusk at 20% and motion trigers them to 100% illumination.

Thanks mdbeck1 for that link.

Thomas

Cool... Are these dual light level fixtures something you came up with or are they off the shelf????

Joe
 

hobbitss

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That's NOT sad.

That's a "field" modification that was done for a good reason. Performed on a working tool by someone who knew what they wanted and knew how to get it. That little trick was performed so you could tie the load onto the jack.

They're your jacks so do as you feel.

For Elroy that mod would stand just as it is. You already have your primo, original. Make this one your working jack. At some point those tie down holes are going to be just what the "crew chief" ordered.

Agreed... May have been used to hold a rubber pad to the steel pad...

Joe
 

Elroy

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Agreed... May have been used to hold a rubber pad to the steel pad...

Joe

Actually Elroy was envisioning a chain across the top of a transmission hooked into the lift pad holes keeping the transmission from "falling over" on its side.
 

Buz

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Mar 14, 2010
Messages
1
Location
Van Wyck, SC
Here are more "items" in the tool shed.

Grindersm1.jpg


itemsm6.jpg


This is an early honeycomb radiator. Guessing from the 1920's. There are no identifying marks as to the manufacturer that I've found. It's in pretty decent condition. I suppose that's why it was left.

Thomas

Thomas, recently found your story here and it's taken a long time to read and digest it all, and it's all very interesting, thanks for sharing. The grinder made from an axle and the radiator above both came from either a 1924 or 1925 Dodge Brothers car, also somewhere in an earlier post you showed a small aluminum hubcap with the DB emblem. No doubt that all these pieces came from the same parts car he must have used.
 
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BB767

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Philo, IL
TOOLS!!!! No ahh Squirrels, No, Tools yeah that's it....
:Help:

Joe

I liked that movie also. Dug was defiantly my favorite! There are more tools that I just haven't gotten around to doing anything with, plus some areas of those buildings still not explored since there's no power out there it's rather dim in the back recesses. That should soon change as I'm getting close to finishing the barn shelves and cleaning these buildings out. Stand by.

BTW, that molasses thing...... I was wondering about that myself.

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Actually Elroy was envisioning a chain across the top of a transmission hooked into the lift pad holes keeping the transmission from "falling over" on its side.

Elroy I suspect you are correct about the holes being used with a chain. There was a shop made hydraulic transmission jack out there that looked so beefy it looked like it could hold up the whole building. With all the trucks and tractors that were repaired out there over the years it needed to be strong.

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Thomas, recently found your story here and it's taken a long time to read and digest it all, and it's all very interesting, thanks for sharing. The grinder made from an axle and the radiator above both came from either a 1924 or 1925 Dodge Brothers car, also somewhere in an earlier post you showed a small aluminum hubcap with the DB emblem. No doubt that all these pieces came from the same parts car he must have used.

Hi Buz and welcome. The bad part about this thread growing so much is it does take a commitment to read it all. I have in the works an index which I think will be helpful for backwards reference especially.

Many thanks for the information on the axel, radiator, hubcap and how they undoubtedly tie together. I have no real knowledge of cars from that era and glad those of you who do help me out. :thumbup: How items out there interrelate fascinates me. I recently uncovered the instrument dash from a late 40's-early 50's Willys that no doubt came from their service truck and the Willys engine which was left in the north room. I'm really looking forward to finally cleaning the remaining buildings to see just exactly what I do have and how they might be related. I still have some old family photographs I haven't posted and will look at them to see if I can find some of these items.

Again, welcome Buz and thanks.

Thomas
 

Fishwacker

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Dec 1, 2007
Messages
32
Location
El Cajon, CA
The molasses soaking works well for removing rust at a very slow rate when you don't want to use the other time consuming methods available. Sand blasting, acid dipping, etc. Just drop your parts in the bucket, cover it up and get busy doing other, more enjoyable stuff. After a day or so you can check the progress. I did say it was slow, didn't I? Of course there has to be a down side, right? Now you have to get the molasses off your parts. Hosing them off in the yard would prolly bring legions of ants and a sink large enough for some of the stuff we work on, might not be available. At any rate, it will always cost us time or money.



I liked that movie also. Dug was defiantly my favorite! There are more tools that I just haven't gotten around to doing anything with, plus some areas of those buildings still not explored since there's no power out there it's rather dim in the back recesses. That should soon change as I'm getting close to finishing the barn shelves and cleaning these buildings out. Stand by.

BTW, that molasses thing...... I was wondering about that myself.

Thomas
 

Fishwacker

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El Cajon, CA
Jacks-4Sm1.jpg


........the jack is quite large with the 2 sides of the frame and handle all being about 4' (1 meter) long. That would have to be one very large ultrasonic cleaner. I know some must exist that large but I don't have access to them unfortunately.

Paul, oven cleaner would be worth a try, good thought. Drain-O would be pretty potent stuff but again maybe worth a try in a inconspicuous place.

Rick, I half way expected your vast experience with old aircraft to have a ready solution. You must have come up against a similar problem in the past? :dunno: If only I didn't want to save the paint.

Perhaps there are some other thoughts out there as well.

This jack is the hard one, the other will be easy. Disassemble and then just media blast the surfaces clean and powder coat away. All in all this is a easy project compared with some other the other obstacles I faced restoring the shop. This just takes some time.

WalkerJackSm15.jpg


I am making progress and the original paint so far has not been harmed. Note the part under the data plate on the left. That had no visible paint showing at all before I started. You guys must know by now I'm not easily discouraged, kind of stubborn sometimes and very focused when I decide to do something! :)

Thomas[/QUOTE]

Hi Thomas,
I've used oven cleaner before and would strongly discourage you from trying it on this treasure of yours. It will certainly remove the paint you are wishing to preserve. The WD40 seems to be doing the job, so why not stick with it? If you want to try other ideas, you might try smearing some similar type of grease on the dirt/old grease that's caked on there. Any type of petroleum product, grease, motor oil, or mineral spirits with a very soft tooth brush action might do the trick. Or just wipe some on and let it set for a spell to see what progress you achieve. I wouldn't use anything stronger than the mineral spirits, and only after trying it on a spot you won't fret about should the paint lift. Your patience is a strong virtue so use it to your advantage.
As always, thanks for the inspiration and enjoyment we all get from yours & Chris's kind gesture to share this grand adventure. Kind Regards, Gary s.
 

Amitygravel

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Claremont Illinois
Thomas , all the work you have done is truly stunning. Design , restoration , archeology (of sorts) , preservation, you've done it all! After driving by that property for years seeing it deteriorate, never once imagined it becoming the gem you have made it. My Dad used to take plow points to Johnsons to have him repoint them , its good to know that the property will live on in the same spirit that it did for all those years and not be leveled into another subdivision overspilling into a small town. Oh , add me to the list of those interested in the anvil if it's still there!!
 

Nuts

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Baker City, Or
Radiator shops that have the capability to do large truck rads will have a ultra sound large enough to do that jack.

Nuts
 

tiresmokindad

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May 19, 2010
Messages
5
Great job! I think your auto shop becomes so nice and awesome! The exhaust restoration of that needs lots of effort. I think your effort was worth it. :D
 
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BB767

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Thomas , all the work you have done is truly stunning. Design , restoration , archeology (of sorts) , preservation, you've done it all! After driving by that property for years seeing it deteriorate, never once imagined it becoming the gem you have made it. My Dad used to take plow points to Johnsons to have him repoint them , its good to know that the property will live on in the same spirit that it did for all those years and not be leveled into another subdivision overspilling into a small town. Oh , add me to the list of those interested in the anvil if it's still there!!

Always nice to hear from folks who remember the shop from "back in the day". Thanks for taking time share some memories. Many farmers from around here who have stopped by felt the same, glad the shop has been "saved" and will live on- even if it's not quite as they remembered it . Please contact me if you get back this way for a visit.

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Can you post any details??? I was looking at the images you have up and the actual light looks like a compact florescent bulb which also had me confused...
:headscrat

Thank you for a absolutely awesome Thread!!!

I'm addicted.....:bowdown:

Those are CF in the barn lights and only come on full bright. Those are not the fixtures I was refereeing to. I will post some details once I'm home - yup, I'm still on the road doing my day job and so far away. :sad:

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Radiator shops that have the capability to do large truck rads will have a ultra sound large enough to do that jack.

Nuts

They Do????? :dunno: That defiantly bears looking into. I had no idea. That would make my day if I can find one. Thank you Nuts!

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Great job! I think your auto shop becomes so nice and awesome! The restoration of that needs lots of effort. I think your effort was worth it. :D

Thank you for the kind words. With a name like "tiresmokindad" you'd fit right in on the drag strip. :D

Thomas
 

nexum1919

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Chicago, IL
I've just spent my whole Saturday night and Sunday morning reading the whole 62 pages! And a young single guy as myself should be involving some other activities at this time of the day...:)

You can now officially add to the list of countries: Turkey

Although I've been living in states for 10 years now, being born and raised in Turkey, I've been raised in a similar state of mind of saving every bit and piece and making them work in some ingenious way. I'm a firm believer of the phrase 'Necessity is the source of all inventions'

Being an auto technician, I'm continuously surrounded by the disposable-one-time-use-only state of mind and people lacking attention to detail and lacking pride of what they do. I literally struggle to keep my head up and try not to drown in these states of minds around me. That means sometimes being yelled at and constantly being ridiculed by co-workers. But at the end of the day I can go to sleep in peace, knowing that in everything I did that day -no matter how small or insignificant- I did it to my best ability. My father always used to say "Do something right, or never do it at all" Whether it being laying carpet or sending satellites into the orbit. I think that's exactly what we lack in today's world.
All my friends say that I will get burned up someday because of my strict attention to detail, but I'd like to think the opposite way. Doing my best in everything I do is what keeps me from burning out.
Reading 62 pages of this thread and other posts in this board actually gives me the strength to go on. Although I don't have a birth certificate, sometimes I feel more 'American' than people that are born and raised here. The "that's good enough" and "can't see it from my house" state of mind is the worst possible betrayal one can commit against this country...

Anyways, thank you for giving me the strength to go on!

One final remark, if I may:
I have a knot in my throat and a tear in my eye when I read the post about Virgil's name tag just laying on grass... A reader suggested that you frame it. But I believe Mr. Johnson left his name tag in there for you not to frame. He'd probably like you to sew it on a workshirt that he'd wear and hang it on a corner of the shop. Just in case he decides to give you a hand.
Please don't enclose him in bunch of glass and wood and hang it up high where he'll be isolated from what's going on in his shop.
virgil.jpg
 

markviii

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east central IL
nexum1919,
A speed reader, I see! I'll update the "country" list (see post #1068 on page 54). Welcome to GJ and to the US of A. And don't think this was a waste of time. Education is a good thing!

One of our tenants is from Turkey. He decided to stay (there's nothing for him back in Turkey as a factory worker), become a citizen (2 years ago) and brought his wife here (last year). His brother (who came here for a Ph.D. in Education) decided to marry an American and move back to Turkey to be an education prof at the university in Ankara.

Your insight into Virgil's name tag goes along with our way of thinking, too! I think we actually have more than one of those tags (right, Tom?), so one may go into some sort of "shadow box" display of shop artifacts at some point. There will eventually be a "before/after" picture in each room of the shop.

The experience of the "knot in my throat and a tear in my eye" is a frequent occurrence around here, especially when family members, friends of the family, and original customers stop by to see the progress. It's very touching and makes us happy to have made the effort to maintain the history of this property (which is part of the land from the original plat of the town owned by the founder for whom the town is named).

Living the dream in the Center of the Universe,
Chris
 
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BB767

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I've just spent my whole Saturday night and Sunday morning reading the whole 62 pages! And a young single guy as myself should be involving some other activities at this time of the day...:)

You can now officially add to the list of countries: Turkey

Although I've been living in states for 10 years now, being born and raised in Turkey, I've been raised in a similar state of mind of saving every bit and piece and making them work in some ingenious way. I'm a firm believer of the phrase 'Necessity is the source of all inventions'

Being an auto technician, I'm continuously surrounded by the disposable-one-time-use-only state of mind and people lacking attention to detail and lacking pride of what they do. I literally struggle to keep my head up and try not to drown in these states of minds around me. That means sometimes being yelled at and constantly being ridiculed by co-workers. But at the end of the day I can go to sleep in peace, knowing that in everything I did that day -no matter how small or insignificant- I did it to my best ability. My father always used to say "Do something right, or never do it at all" Whether it being laying carpet or sending satellites into the orbit. I think that's exactly what we lack in today's world.
All my friends say that I will get burned up someday because of my strict attention to detail, but I'd like to think the opposite way. Doing my best in everything I do is what keeps me from burning out.
Reading 62 pages of this thread and other posts in this board actually gives me the strength to go on. Although I don't have a birth certificate, sometimes I feel more 'American' than people that are born and raised here. The "that's good enough" and "can't see it from my house" state of mind is the worst possible betrayal one can commit against this country...

Anyways, thank you for giving me the strength to go on!

One final remark, if I may:
I have a knot in my throat and a tear in my eye when I read the post about Virgil's name tag just laying on grass... A reader suggested that you frame it. But I believe Mr. Johnson left his name tag in there for you not to frame. He'd probably like you to sew it on a workshirt that he'd wear and hang it on a corner of the shop. Just in case he decides to give you a hand.
Please don't enclose him in bunch of glass and wood and hang it up high where he'll be isolated from what's going on in his shop.
virgil.jpg

nexum1919 hold onto those principles and beliefs, they will never let you down. Your father sounds much like my own and very "old school" which is not a bad thing. That's an interesting suggestion for the name tag, something to consider. Thank you taking a moment to share those observations and welcome.


Thomas
 
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BB767

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nexum1919,
A speed reader, I see! I'll update the "country" list (see post #1068 on page 54). Welcome to GJ and to the US of A. And don't think this was a waste of time. Education is a good thing!

One of our tenants is from Turkey. He decided to stay (there's nothing for him back in Turkey as a factory worker), become a citizen (2 years ago) and brought his wife here (last year). His brother (who came here for a Ph.D. in Education) decided to marry an American and move back to Turkey to be an education prof at the university in Ankara.

Your insight into Virgil's name tag goes along with our way of thinking, too! I think we actually have more than one of those tags (right, Tom?), so one may go into some sort of "shadow box" display of shop artifacts at some point. There will eventually be a "before/after" picture in each room of the shop.

The experience of the "knot in my throat and a tear in my eye" is a frequent occurrence around here, especially when family members, friends of the family, and original customers stop by to see the progress. It's very touching and makes us happy to have made the effort to maintain the history of this property (which is part of the land from the original plat of the town owned by the founder for whom the town is named).

Living the dream in the Center of the Universe,
Chris

Chris, that's the only name tag of his we have. I have another with his name spelled incorrectly that Mr Johnson attached a note to the company that made it, firmly stating he wanted the spelling corrected in no uncertain terms.

Thomas

P.S. Home sooooon! :bounce:
 

jgbrueck

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Nov 15, 2005
Messages
13
Location
Gilbert, AZ
Thomas and Chris,

I will add my name to the list of folks who are honored and humbled that you're sharing this adventure with us... It's an addiction really; I can't wait to see more pictures! I've been following along the whole way, and while I didn't have much more to say than the accollades (sp?) that everyone else had already stated, now I have something to share!

I'd been looking for another hydraulic jack, as I have 2 import and a Craftsman aluminum that all no longer work... I've been inspired by your old Walkers, and have been cruising Craigslist here in Phoenix for quite some time hoping to get a bite.
This Saturday, I finally found one - picked it up for not much $, and while it needs a thorough "going through" and restoration, it'll be a fine addition to my shop when it's finished. it looks very similar to yours, though I don't have a data plate on mine. I'm surmising it's a "Big Boy", (can't seem to find a model # on it anywhere, but that's what I'm guessing) and it is also missing the front nose piece. 1 of the front wheels is locked up, and it's missing the connection for the release mechanism between the handle and the jack itself, but overall, I'm quite happy I found one!
Here are some pictures - same as 1 of yours, I'll blow it apart, get everything powdercoated, then re-assemble. Sounds like I might have to give HiBall a call too, for some parts.
Do you by chance have any insight as to where I might get an old manual, or have a source for a nosepiece?

Thanks again for sharing your adventure, and keep up the good work!

Jeff in Gilbert, AZ
 

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Hiball

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Missery
Thomas and Chris,

I will add my name to the list of folks who are honored and humbled that you're sharing this adventure with us... It's an addiction really; I can't wait to see more pictures! I've been following along the whole way, and while I didn't have much more to say than the accollades (sp?) that everyone else had already stated, now I have something to share!

I'd been looking for another hydraulic jack, as I have 2 import and a Craftsman aluminum that all no longer work... I've been inspired by your old Walkers, and have been cruising Craigslist here in Phoenix for quite some time hoping to get a bite.
This Saturday, I finally found one - picked it up for not much $, and while it needs a thorough "going through" and restoration, it'll be a fine addition to my shop when it's finished. it looks very similar to yours, though I don't have a data plate on mine. I'm surmising it's a "Big Boy", (can't seem to find a model # on it anywhere, but that's what I'm guessing) and it is also missing the front nose piece. 1 of the front wheels is locked up, and it's missing the connection for the release mechanism between the handle and the jack itself, but overall, I'm quite happy I found one!
Here are some pictures - same as 1 of yours, I'll blow it apart, get everything powdercoated, then re-assemble. Sounds like I might have to give HiBall a call too, for some parts.
Do you by chance have any insight as to where I might get an old manual, or have a source for a nosepiece?

Thanks again for sharing your adventure, and keep up the good work!

Jeff in Gilbert, AZ


Nice looking Jack, Those nosepieces are difficult to find. I will keep my eye open and see what i can find. Its hard to tell by the pic, but im guessing its a 782 or a 784 which would be respectively a 2 ton and a 4 ton. Judging by the Size compared to the Tools laying around im leaning toward 4 ton. When you get it apart measure the Ram diameter and i can be more definative and offer you a quote on the rebuild kit if you desire.

Thanks for sharing
Steven
 

Vernmotor

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Location
Mt.vernon oh
Being an auto technician, I'm continuously surrounded by the disposable-one-time-use-only state of mind and people lacking attention to detail and lacking pride of what they do. I literally struggle to keep my head up and try not to drown in these states of minds around me. That means sometimes being yelled at and constantly being ridiculed by co-workers. But at the end of the day I can go to sleep in peace, knowing that in everything I did that day -no matter how small or insignificant- I did it to my best ability. My father always used to say "Do something right, or never do it at all"


You sir have read my mind
 
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BB767

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Philo, IL
Thomas and Chris,

I will add my name to the list of folks who are honored and humbled that you're sharing this adventure with us... It's an addiction really; I can't wait to see more pictures! I've been following along the whole way, and while I didn't have much more to say than the accollades (sp?) that everyone else had already stated, now I have something to share!

I'd been looking for another hydraulic jack, as I have 2 import and a Craftsman aluminum that all no longer work... I've been inspired by your old Walkers, and have been cruising Craigslist here in Phoenix for quite some time hoping to get a bite.
This Saturday, I finally found one - picked it up for not much $, and while it needs a thorough "going through" and restoration, it'll be a fine addition to my shop when it's finished. it looks very similar to yours, though I don't have a data plate on mine. I'm surmising it's a "Big Boy", (can't seem to find a model # on it anywhere, but that's what I'm guessing) and it is also missing the front nose piece. 1 of the front wheels is locked up, and it's missing the connection for the release mechanism between the handle and the jack itself, but overall, I'm quite happy I found one!
Here are some pictures - same as 1 of yours, I'll blow it apart, get everything powdercoated, then re-assemble. Sounds like I might have to give HiBall a call too, for some parts.
Do you by chance have any insight as to where I might get an old manual, or have a source for a nosepiece?

Thanks again for sharing your adventure, and keep up the good work!

Jeff in Gilbert, AZ

Jeff,

Welcome and many thanks for sharing with us your terrific new,old jack. :thumbup: That's a keeper for sure and Hiball will do a nice job for you I'm confident.

Now here's a thought before you get it powder coated. Powder coating does have some drawbacks that you need to be aware of. The coating tends to somewhat thick (generally much thicker than paint) so any place where there is a close fit you may (probably will in fact) need to sand down the surface a little to get back the clearance you need. Also where two surfaces meet you want to minimize the coating as it's applied there. As you deconstruct the jack make note of where two surfaces come in contact with one another (say where the frame rails meet) and you might even want to tape those areas off to keep coating off of them. The saddle (the round part that comes in contact with what's being lifted) is not readably removable from the lifting arms. Most likely damage would be done to it so plan on leaving it all together. Just have that area well cleaned and flushed out from any blasting media that would find it's way in there.

As to it's age, if you remove the long, narrow cover that has "Walker" cast into it (it's just held by spring clips on the sides, carefully pry it up and it just pops off) and take a picture of it from the end so I can see how thick that material is I think I can help you. The oldest, earliest jacks had these cover plates cast from some thick metal. Later ones just used stamped steel. I'm thinking yours is a #784, 4 ton with the thicker, cast plate making it a very old, early one.

I'm still not home :)mad:) otherwise I would post some pictures from my old one to show you what I mean as I have both versions. I'll do so once back in the states. Take your time and you'll be rewarded with an incredibly beautiful and useful tool. Nice job! :D

Thomas
 

CRTDI

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1,533
Thomas,

I know that your intent is to powdercoat the original jack that was in the shop. Do you think that the oven heat from the powdercoat process might damage the new seals on the rebuilt hydraulic unit? Or do you have another plan of attack for refinishing the hydraulic unit?
 

jgbrueck

Member
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Nov 15, 2005
Messages
13
Location
Gilbert, AZ
Thanks Thomas!

I tried to get a good picture of the cover palte last night; not as easy as it looks... It's definitely a cast piece on mine, about 0.2" thick. Here's the best pic I could get of the cover plate and the hydraulic cylinder:

Thanks again!

Jeff
 

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BB767

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Walker Greyhound Jack cover plates.

WalkerJackSm15.jpg


This cover plate protects the power piston assembly as seen below...

WalkerJackSm2.jpg


The very oldest, earliest production of these jacks used cast metal for these cover plates.

WalkerJackSm16.jpg



The cover plate on the right is a cast plate while the one on the left is stamped steel.

WalkerJackSm19.jpg


In profile you can see how thick this material was compared to...........

WalkerJackSm20.jpg


...the stamped steel cover. I am taking a guess as to why they changed over to stamped piece. First and foremost it is much cheaper and easier to stamp a cover out than to cast this piece. Also a steel piece is not as brittle as a cast one and if a heavy object is dropped on the cast cover it would break as opposed to the steel one that would dent and could be reformed back into shape. Economics more than anything drove the change I'm sure. That is probably why they did away with the nose piece as well in later years.

Jeff you should look at the casting numbers in the power piston casting. Yours should read G 9 2 4 I'm going to guess.

WalkerJackSm21.jpg


The number 4 s coverup by the release rod.

WalkerJackSm22.jpg


Look under it to see the number 4. Hiball correct me if I'm wrong but that might be a way to I.D. a 4 ton unit as it is on both of mine. Or was the same casting used by the 2 ton units?

Also Jeff you mentioned a frozen wheel.

WalkerJackSm23.jpg


The front wheels are cover by a cap which retains grease under it. To remove it you'll find two small notches across from each other. This one is at the 1 o'clock position on the shadow line. Use these notches to carefully pry the cap off. The first cap I removed took me 2 hours to get it off soaking it all the time with WD 40 as I went. The second one took about 10 minutes.

WalkerJackSm24.jpg


Once this cap is removed there is a cotter key underneath. Then you can service the needle bearings inside.

WalkerJackSm12.jpg


The inside of each of the front wheels has a grease zerk. Here you can see the zerk on the inside, top of the left wheel.

WalkerJackSm25.jpg


The rear casters are held on by 1 recessed screw on each side.

WalkerJackSm26.jpg


These 2 screws were staked to prevent them from loosing up and falling out. You can see the stake dimple in the first photo at the 1 o'clock position and the bottom photo it's at the 7-8 o'clock spot. Because these screws were staked in place it's important to get a correct fitting screw driver bade that won't tear up the slot and to clean this slot out completely. I wound up using an offset screw driver. Soak those screws well before you attempt to work them out and as you go also. Go slow working them back and forth so you don't chew up the slots. There are ball bearings under there so be ready when you remove these screws. :eek:

Lastly you will need to access inside the handle....

WalkerJackSm27.jpg


The sheet metal cover is held on by these two large screws above the data plate.

WalkerJackSm28.jpg


Same drill, clean out the slots completely, soak in penetrating oil, get a correct fitting screw driver and nothing can go wrong.... can go wrong.... can go wrong.... can go wrong...........:D

Jeff I hope this helps you and others who may have one of these wonderful pieces of art.


Thomas
 
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BB767

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Thomas,

I know that your intent is to powdercoat the original jack that was in the shop. Do you think that the oven heat from the powdercoat process might damage the new seals on the rebuilt hydraulic unit? Or do you have another plan of attack for refinishing the hydraulic unit?

You are correct that the power unit won't go into the oven because it would get damaged. Both of my jacks have great paint on the power units so I'm leaving them original.

JackPump3sm.jpg


This is the power unit for the jack I'm powder coating and you can see the paint is in great condition. This will be removed and the jack will be done in separate pieces and then reassembled.

Thomas
 
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BB767

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Location
Philo, IL
Cool... Are these dual light level fixtures something you came up with or are they off the shelf????

Joe

Here is a look at two types of these dual fixtures that I've used.

110lightSm1.jpg


This was used on the brick garage I built in 2004, a year before I purchased Mr. Johnson's old 1930's auto repair shop.

110lightSm2.jpg


You can use any type of light fixture you wish with this one as the mounting base (the tan part next to the brick) doesn't come with a light fixture, you supply your own. The base normally provides light at 20 % illumination and has a motion sensor on the bottom that when triggered provides for 100% illumination.

110lightSm3.jpg


By doing that it saves the light bulb and power as it is 100% for only when needed, usually a short time.

110lightSm4.jpg


Here the same mounting base on that building with a smaller light fixture.

110lightSm5.jpg


110lightSm6.jpg


Then for the old shop I used fixtures that did the same 20% - 100 % illumination but they were complete fixtures this time, all in one.

108lightSm1.jpg


I put them by all the windows. This provides low light around the shop all night long.

108LightSm2.jpg


108LightSm3.jpg


These are halogen bulbs so the fixtures are small but provide plenty of light when 100%.

108LightSm4.jpg


And it also provides better security since the windows are a potential entry point in the dark.

108LightSm5.jpg


This picture also shows off the reflective film I used on all the windows. It cuts UV penetration by 98% which keeps items from fading that are left in the light all the time like cars, tools boxes, equipment etc. Additionally it keeps prying eyes from seeing in very well and keeps summer heat out and winter heat inside the building in.

Thomas
 

Nuts

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Jan 31, 2010
Messages
376
Location
Baker City, Or
Your welcome Thomas, might want to do a test to see if it takes off the original paint tho.
Those tanks work very quickly as they are very powerful. They will pulverize bone in short order so don't put a finger in there!!!!!

Nuts
 

jgbrueck

Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
13
Location
Gilbert, AZ
Thanks for the pictures Thomas!!

I verified last night, and indeed, I also have a "G924" stamped into the base of the hydraulic cylinder. All the pictures you posted look identical to my jack, so I must be on the right track.

One other pesky question, while I have your ear... My sheet-metal handle is cracked in several places - does everyone have advice on the best way to repair that? Also, how to remove the handle from the jack? I can remove the 2 mounting screws, but the handle still only slides up so far of the pivot mechanism; it won't come off fully. I must be missing something...

Thanks!

Jeff
 
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