Restoring rolling tool cabinet

[dillymann]

So I got this old tool cabinet that needs lots of work. Its missing one drawer at the bottom and one drawer is rusted out in the corner. Needs new casters and has friction slides. Would it be worth putting the money into it? Its pretty beat up but is a cool cabinet


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[jakemac]

The milk in my fridge doesn't smell, but it's looking a little chunky, should I still drink it ?

 

[dillymann]

im not sure what kind of box it is but these are pics of a similar one that i can find

,http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g44/Unreachablez/Tool Box/toolbox2_zps79ef16bc.jpg

 

[jakemac]

We'd need to see pictures of the actual box in question, but the one in your post looks like a Beach (???).

 

[dillymann]

I will have to get some later its not at my house currently


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[dillymann]

Definitely needs paint


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[dillymann]

Pretty much the same condition as the one pictured but has a little bit more rust


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[Marc Benjamin]

lol, I had pretty much the same question last week. While waiting for your pics, check out the link below and see what most of the folks say.

 

[dillymann]

lol, I had pretty much the same question last week. While waiting for your pics, check out the link below and see what most of the folks say.

my bottom is in almost identical condition to yours, so far i have nothing into it but im not sure what itl'll cost to do. casters are about 10-12$ a piece and paint???

 

[Jackverson]

Hey Dilly the pic which you insert is look like old cabinet but in better condition just paint is require for this cabinet.Thanks!!

 

[Bigplum]

Without doubt you must restore it, even without seeing the actual box in question

If need be sell a kidney or sell ****** favours to fund the project

 

[Marc Benjamin]

I think the paint/primer/sandpaper/misc cost for the bottom would not get any higher than $60 for diy rattles.

 

[dillymann]

ok so I bought this box to re do. It is the same as my other but is missing the parts that the other one has. cost 50$. this is the actual box i bought

 

[dillymann]

I think the paint/primer/sandpaper/misc cost for the bottom would not get any higher than $60 for diy rattles.

what kind of paint should I use? I dont have access to a spray gun, should I get a 1 gallon can of paint or spray can it? its going to be painted black to match my top box

 

[Sonny2010]

Lets see how it comes out!

 

[Zeke]

A lot of better brands spray cans actually have good paint in them.
In CA this is the only solvent based paints we can get.

 

[dillymann]

also I need keys for the lock or a new lock. where would I get keys or a lock?

 

[Zeke]

also I need keys for the lock or a new lock. where would I get keys or a lock?

eBay, lock shop maybe even Amazon. Lots of online suppliers. For specialized items the greatness of the Internet makes searching for items easy. Should have been around when all we had was the Yellow pages and lots of gas.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

Get Rustoleum gloss black. See the threads in my signature.

 

[dillymann]

I think the paint/primer/sandpaper/misc cost for the bottom would not get any higher than $60 for diy rattles.

Get Rustoleum gloss black. See the threads in my signature.

how many cans should i get?

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

how many cans should i get?

Depends how many coats. I give my boxes a minimum of three, wetsanding in between. Eventually you get a finish like glass.

 

[dillymann]

Depends how many coats. I give my boxes a minimum of three, wetsanding in between. Eventually you get a finish like glass.

will it be ok for me to paint it outside? and should i take it down to bare metal?

 

[Zeke]

Jeez, man. If you're that green you better paint something that doesn't matter much for some experience.

Seriously and meant in a friendly way.

So I got this old tool cabinet that needs lots of work. Its missing one drawer at the bottom and one drawer is rusted out in the corner. Needs new casters and has friction slides. Would it be worth putting the money into it? Its pretty beat up but is a cool cabinet

Reading that over I think I'd just walk away.

 

[dillymann]

Jeez, man. If you're that green you better paint something that doesn't matter much for some experience.

Seriously and meant in a friendly way.

Reading that over I think I'd just walk away.

ill admit I dont have much experience spray painting but I keep seeing people that say painting outside is bad because of dust and wind, and im only asking these questions to learn how to do it the right way

 

[Marc Benjamin]

ill admit I dont have much experience spray painting but I keep seeing people that say painting outside is bad because of dust and wind, and im only asking these questions to learn how to do it the right way

Ideally, you would want to spray it in a controled environment like a bay or booth hence inside the garrage but it depends on what else is in there. You need to be carefull about overspray and drips. I suppose you can line the surrondings with plastic but Abigger consideration is the lasting odor.

While I don't have that much experience with painting steel, I do have quite a bit of experience applying finishes over photo's and let me tell you, that odor stays in your garage for a loong time.

 

[Zeke]

If it's breezy and there's dust, leaves or pollen in the air it will find your paint. Not only that, the spray cans are not real powerful and the paint is thin to get it out and get it on and flow. A light wind and not much paint will even reach the object. So, yes, it's best to paint in a still, clean area.

 

[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

will it be ok for me to paint it outside? and should i take it down to bare metal?

1) I ONLY spray things outside. As long as there isn't wind or dust, and the temperature is good, over 60 degrees, low humidity, you'll be fine.

2) I don't always take things down to bare metal...depends on what it is and how much work it will be, but I've always gotten good results.

 

[dillymann]

1) I ONLY spray things outside. As long as there isn't wind or dust, and the temperature is good, over 60 degrees, low humidity, you'll be fine.

2) I don't always take things down to bare metal...depends on what it is and how much work it will be, but I've always gotten good results.

The new bottom i bought is the same as my other one but in great shape, its missing 2 drawers and the front door but I have all of those parts on the other chest, the paint is in good shape on this box but the drawers and front door on the other needs paint.


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[Lookin4'67Galaxieconv]

I wouldn't worry about taking that bottom box down to bare metal, then. Just sand it down to where you have a smooth surface to paint. Put more effort into working on the drawers and front door on the other box when you're prepping for paint.

 

[dillymann]

Here is my original box in question, I hit it with a wire wheel yesterday ad its not in too bad of shape, there was alot of surface rust that made it look alot worse. The one drawer was rusted out all the way along the back side and about a 2" strip from right to left on the bottom at the back, I put some fiberglass in to fill the holes an then I plan to body fill it on the outside. The top was pretty pitted so I put some body fill on the top too, going to get some paint today as its on sale and going to clean it up alot more before priming.


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[dillymann]

I wouldn't worry about taking that bottom box down to bare metal, then. Just sand it down to where you have a smooth surface to paint. Put more effort into working on the drawers and front door on the other box when you're prepping for paint.

Do I have to prime or can i just spray the enamel?


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[jakemac]

If you leave paint on, then I would prime. It will help to give consistent color between the painted and unpainted areas.

If you take the whole box down to bare metal, then I'd just give it a final wipe with acetone to get rid of any oily fingerprints and apply the paint. Most paints today have a primer mixed in. But I'd still make the first coat thin to create a bonding coat, then start giving it a better topcoat.

 

[dillymann]

If you leave paint on, then I would prime. It will help to give consistent color between the painted and unpainted areas.

If you take the whole box down to bare metal, then I'd just give it a final wipe with acetone to get rid of any oily fingerprints and apply the paint. Most paints today have a primer mixed in. But I'd still make the first coat thin to create a bonding coat, then start giving it a better topcoat.

Ok, I plan on leaving alot of the old paint on, im just going to take it off where its rusty or flaking


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[Marc Benjamin]

What paint is on sale and where?

 

[lilredex]

You in Canada??

The usual procedure is.....bare metal - prime it. Just spraying over existing paint in good shape - scuff it and paint. And yes it is fine to paint out doors, just pick a day with no wind (or bugs). Tremclad "Fire Red" is a good match for those.

Locks are cheap and easy to find. Have a look here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220035

And here, for an example of that Tremclad paint (#1454 post)

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3129680

 

[dillymann]

You in Canada??

The usual procedure is.....bare metal - prime it. Just spraying over existing paint in good shape - scuff it and paint. And yes it is fine to paint out doors, just pick a day with no wind (or bugs). Tremclad "Fire Red" is a good match for those.

Locks are cheap and easy to find. Have a look here:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=220035

And here, for an example of that Tremclad paint (#1454 post)

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=3129680

Ya I live just outside of toronto, I bought armour coat poppy red enamel


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