Restoring rusted work bench top ?

[Weedwaka]

I scored a sweet 8' long work bench top from a retired steel worker. He had it left over from his shop build, but it was stored outside and has a good amount of rust on it.

Whats the best way to tackle the rust and coat it ? I was originally going to hit it with a grinder and then start sanding it out with a DA. I grabbed some 140 by hand and gave it a good rub to see what kind of bite the rust had, and it came off real easy without any hard pitting. So now I am thinking of starting with 140 and moving up from there.

Phosphoric acid was recommended to remove the rust, but other than rust-mort in the body shop, I have no experience with it. Bit leary of using chemicals at home too.

Also, what would you rub the top down with to keep surface rust from re forming ? He said he just rubs his down with a slightly oily rag now and again and it does the trick. His benches looked perfect.

Any hints, tips, ideas welcome.

 

[dude67]

I would have it sand blasted. I don't know how corroded it is but that should get it nice and smooth. Then the oil will keep it nice.

 

[Ryan87LX]

Naval Jelly would probably work to remove the rust. Wipe on, let sit, wipe off.

I left a bottle of bleach on my table saw over the winter - it leaked and the entire top of my saw was rusted. I sanded it off with my orbital. Took a while and left some dark spots, but there was no visible pitting and everything feels nice and smooth.

I hear that auto wax will keep the top from rusting in the future.

 

[dittle fart around]

I had bare steel tops on the benches at work. When they got ugly mostly from coffee stains I used a red scotch brite pad on a grinder and voila new bench top. If you don't have anything more than surface rust put a little oil on the pad to keep the dust down and go to town.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Simple is a flap disk on an angle grinder, followed by an orbital sander or whatever you like to finish it off. Like dittle says, Scotchbrite pads will keep it clean.

Then paint it, or put a little bit of light oil on the top to keep it from rusting again.

Acid is going to be more trouble than it's worth, in my opinion.

 

[mgilde13]

Try some CLR on it. It works wonders on hot rods and requires almost 0 elbow grease.

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r309/fleck1/59 el caminos/DSCN5122.jpg

 

[Brad54]

Do NOT use acid. Fumes, it'll kill all your grass, and if you get any on the concrete it'll mark the concrete.

I've found a twisted wire cup on an angle grinder to be the best rust remover there is. It's fast and thorough, and seems to leave a burnished finish on the metal's surface when you're done--I've also found that burnished surface to be rust resistant on its own.

It IS messy though--throws a lot of rust dust in the air. So wear a dust mask, too, or you'll be blowing rusty boogers out of your nose for three days.

And it's loud, so use ear plugs.

-Brad

 

[-Brent-]

Don't bother with CLR. If you want to go that route use oxcillic acid, a.k.a. wood bleach, lots cheaper and stronger. However, this is a steel work bench, hit it with the flap disc and move on. Loads less time than messing with chemicals.

 

[CARS]

I think cross posting from another forum works:
http://metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2257

One of the best write-ups on surface rust removal I have ever seen.

The rust I deal with is where half the panel is missing. You're lucky!

 

[dolfans]

What will you do after you get the rust off? I have a metal table that i want to repair(paint). It has paint overspray etc on it

 

[dittle fart around]

What will you do after you get the rust off? I have a metal table that i want to repair(paint). It has paint overspray etc on it

Once you paint it you'll be repainting it all the time. A nice clean metal surface is a wonderful thing. Hit the top with a scotch brite pad on a angle grinder once a month and your good.

 

[Carl B]

Phosphoric acid was recommended to remove the rust, but other than rust-mort in the body shop, I have no experience with it. Bit leary of using chemicals at home too.

The link from CARS is a good one. I've never used Navel Jell... or Rustmort...

What I have used for decades is Ospho. It's used in most good body and restoration shops. Ospho is a mild solution of Phosphoric Acid, about 12% as I recall. Relatively inexpensive by the quart or gallon. Most automotive paint supply stores carry it - as well as Home Depot now.

Use a scotch bright pad, and scrub the metal down with Ospho. As mentioned in the linked write up - you can use a little water sprayed on to keep things wet.. I just use a little more Ospho..

Phosphoric Acid chemically reacts with Rust {Iron Oxide} to form Iron Phosphate - which is inert. The Ospho will kill microscopic rust in the surface of the metal - and it will prevent Flash Rust for several days.

The US Military among others - have studied RUST Prevention and removal for at least 80 years now - and to this day - a mild solution of Phosphoric Acid is the most effective method of rust removal and control.

No need to worry about your grass - Phosphate is what is in all common grass fertilizers, just wash the area down with a flood of water, it will neutralize the acid in the ground - and your grass will look freshly GREEN. ;-) Also don't let the word "ACID" scare you - it takes a proper balance of acid and alkali to sustain most living things. Orange Juice contains relatively massive amount of acid... relative to a potato.. ;-) Balance in all things....

I would recommend using rubber gloves, {you know the old - do as I say not as I do}...

FWIW,
Carl B.

 

[Machobuck]

Acid with a brush

 

[Weedwaka]

Lots of great ideas to research.

I have never used or even seen a flap disc. Google is "learning" me right now...

I am just leaving it steel when I am done. No paint.

 

[ZRX61]

Ya said ya have a DA & seeing as ya said #140 took the rust off easily hit it with #80 & then #180-220.

I'd probably buff it with a paste wax after that for protection etc... However, I'm in the Mojave desert so I can leave bare steel around for years without it rusting

 

[ert01]

A selection of flap discs are pretty essential to any metalworking shop in my opinion. You would be amazed at how clean and smooth you can make rough old steel and boogery welds (not that any of us make ugly welds of course haha) with a flap disc and some patience. It's great too for when you want to clean up a piece for welding without removing any metal... (like thin sheet metal). I keep even worn out flap discs around for just that reason.

 

[Virgil Cain]

The link from CARS is a good one. I've never used Navel Jell... or Rustmort...

What I have used for decades is Ospho. It's used in most good body and restoration shops. Ospho is a mild solution of Phosphoric Acid, about 12% as I recall. Relatively inexpensive by the quart or gallon. Most automotive paint supply stores carry it - as well as Home Depot now.

Naval Jelly is phosphoric acid as well, and I suspect that Rustmort also contains phosphoric acid.

Phosphoric acid even in fairly concentrated form is not that aggressive. As you get it in solutions like Ospho it is very mild and easy to use. Of course, don't get it in your eyes but even if you do it can be washed out with water and shouldn't do you any permanent harm.

The great thing about Ospho, Naval Jelly, etc. is that it converts Iron Oxide (rust) into Iron Phosphate which is fairly inert and actually forms a protective layer that slows the future formation of rust. It'll turn the surface somewhat dark, and if you put a coat of oil on top it'll last longer without rusting.

If you're going to go this route I'd also recommend Ospho. It's fairly cheap and easy to use and you can get it at Home Depot and other hardware stores. I'd particularly recommend it if there is pitted rust that you can't get out easily with sanding or grinding. It will stop those pitted spots from further rusting.

 

[Tarheelgarage]

Flap disc sand and paint with a coat of enamel paint.

It's a work bench, use it and don't worry about how good it looks.