Resurrect a Wilton Drill Press

[Marvelicious]

I picked this baby up off Cragslist for about it's value in scrap metal, but I'm fairly confident that it's worth saving. Based on the casting number on the head, it is either a Wilton or Dayton (was sold as both). Wilton/Jet still sells essentially the same model (J-A5816) with a few updates. As near as I've been able to find, most of the part numbers interchange.

Here it is as I bought it:





...and after just a bit of elbow grease:



Obviously the cleanup will continue, but it was nice to find something under the grime. There is virtually no slop in the quill and a dial indicator running on the outside of the chuck is showing less than 5 thousandths runout.

If the rear pulley was still with the unit, I'd just replace the motor, but that part alone is at least $200, plus the motor and I'm not entirely sure I want to listen to the variable speed belts. For similar money, it seems likely that I could replace both pulleys with simple stepped pulleys, and pick up a 3 phase motor and VFD instead of the single.

Anyone have any input? Yay or nay? I'm not opposed to spending some money, as I think the end result will be worth it...

Also, I'm not 100% how the chuck/arbor/spindle all goes together on this unit. A blurry old copy of the original manual states that assembly/dis-assembly should be "self explanatory" based on the exploded diagram. Well, maybe if it weren't a pdf of a photocopy of a manual that is older than I am, but it isn't all that clear to me. I'm inclined to pick up a set of drill chuck wedges, but I want to be sure that it doesn't have some other means of attachment before I start trying to beat it apart! Anyone have any insight?

 

[WWIIjeep]

That's a Jacobs 633-C chuck assembly. The threaded collar is attached to the chuck with an internal snap-ring.

Loosen the collar with a spanner wrench. Continue turning until the collar bears on the top of the chuck and forces the chuck off the Jacobs #33 taper on the spindle.

You can use Jacobs chuck removal wedges between the collar and the chuck, but it's usually not necessary, and you'll still have to loosen the collar and remove it in order to get the chuck completely off the spindle.

 

[Marvelicious]

That makes a lot more sense of the blurry diagram. Glad I asked! Hopefully the repeated baths of Kroil will help move things. Thanks for the help.

 

[exmaxima1]

That's a Jacobs 633-C chuck assembly. The threaded collar is attached to the chuck with an internal snap-ring.

I have essentially the same drill press except with a different table. I never could remove the chuck on mine as well. They are on there REALLY tight!

 

[exmaxima1]

Anyone have any input? Yay or nay? I'm not opposed to spending some money, as I think the end result will be worth it...

I have the same drill press and like it alot. I would not spend $200 for a new rear sheave, as (like you) I only paid a few bucks for mine---$40 to be exact. But I like your idea of simple pulleys and VFD. That way you could always move the motor/VFD to another project down the line if you find a better drill press---like an old Delta.

The best part of the simple pulleys is the low noise. Those variable sheaves are noisy and get annoying if you use the press for any length of time. At work I have a Clausing with the variable drive and only use it when I'm in a hurry. I prefer my simple 1941 Delta DP-600 when I have to drill/countersink holes for hours. It is much quieter and runs smoother. Almost therapeutic.....

 

[Marvelicious]

Well, your $40 beats me by $10, but I'm still pretty happy. I'm pretty sure that for most of my purposes, the drill press won't be the limiting factor: I simply don't build anything that requires more precision than that at this point.

I'm leaning pretty heavily in the VFD/step pulley direction at the moment - it just seems like a better use of the money. I've read a few threads on VFD's here and there, but there seems to be a bit of dispute about whether to oversize the motor, and by how much. I ran across one poster who swore that it was unwise to go with less than 3hp, because when using large bits, the VFD doesn't gain the mechanical advantage that low gearing gains. I understand the concept, but tripling the motor size seems like overkill, for the relatively rare occasion I'll need to drill truly large holes in hard metal. I have spotted an older 3hp motor or Craigslist for a song, but any savings are negated by the cost of the higher powered VFD.

Anyone with personal experience putting a VFD on a drill press care to weigh in?

 

[exmaxima1]

I'm leaning pretty heavily in the VFD/step pulley direction at the moment - it just seems like a better use of the money.

Before giving up on the stock variable sheave scheme, check eBay for a used spring loaded sheave. Since you already have the main adjustable sheave, you are open to lots of options for the motor sheave.

The stock sheave is about 6.5" in diameter, but you can go bigger or smaller since you don't have a belt cover to worry about. I would try these 2 on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191151785667?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


http://www.ebay.com/itm/291054312898?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[Marvelicious]

I did consider the eBay route. Adapting should be easy since it is the motor side pulley that I need, but I can't help thinking I'd be much happier with the VFD in the long run, if for no other reason that noise. I like to listen to podcasts while I work and I often find myself putting off noisy tasks! That step pulley hum is a lot more appealing. It is probably going to come down to what kind of deal I can find on an appropriate motor.

 

[Marvelicious]

Loosen the collar with a spanner wrench. Continue turning until the collar bears on the top of the chuck and forces the chuck off the Jacobs #33 taper on the spindle.

Had a few spare minutes tonight, this worked like a charm. One step at a time...

 

[Mr. Brooks]

I picked up the dayton version a while back. Love the variable speed and mine came equipped with 1.5 hp motor so I don't think it will be struggling anytime soon. No table lift, but I plan on designing a solution.

 

[454ragtop]

A VFD and a motor in the 1 to 1-1/2 HP is the way to go. Currently have 3 drill presses with VFD's, 3/4 and 1 HP, work excellent. Since you plan to add step pulleys also, no need for a larger motor than that, it's a drill press, not a milling machine. If you were constantly drilling holes larger than 1 ", it might make sense to go bigger, but it would make more sense to get a larger more capable drill. If it were me, I'd grab a 1 HP 115 volt VFD and a 1 HP 3 ph motor, and call it done.
Good luck, Jim

 

[Marvelicious]

Well, I've scaled back my ambitions for the moment on the VFD plan. To adapt a step pulley system to my press it appears I'd either have to have the existing pulley system machined down (I don't have access to a lathe) or just buy the "Spindle Pulley Shaft" from the step pulley version. ~$90 for that, at least $100 for the VFD, $90 for the pulleys I was looking at, ~$100 for a motor...

Meanwhile, I've got a 3/4hp single phase motor just sitting, and one of those eBay pulleys mentioned above was still down around starting bid... So I just bought it for $23 shipped. I eventually want to do the step pulley/VFD upgrade, but this gets me a functional press and I'm still under $100. Meanwhile I can keep my eyes open for the motor/vfd/pulleys for dirt cheap. I guess I can live with some noise for now!

 

[exmaxima1]

I picked up the dayton version a while back. Love the variable speed and mine came equipped with 1.5 hp motor so I don't think it will be struggling anytime soon. No table lift, but I plan on designing a solution.

Here's the "solution" I came up with for my Wilton drill press.

 

[Marvelicious]

Anyone know the correct spanner for the slotted ring? The outside of the threads are about 1.5"

 

[JimNorman]

This is a very old thread, but then my drill press is a very old press. I have the Dayton version. Two questions, is the chuck threaded to a morse taper insert? and if so how does one remove it. Of not, is there a replacement spindle that is Morse Taper?

 

[shawhite]

I’m sure if you can post a picture of your drill press some of the people here can help you out.

 

[lafester]

Pretty sure most use the standard jacobs taper 33.

 

[JimNorman]

This is the drill press in question. No idea how old it is. I believe that the chuck is threaded as opposed to a taper, but not sure just yet. Machine runs great, it is tight, no describable play although I've not put a dial indicator on it yet.

What I am wondering is if I can replace the spindle with a Morse Taper spindle? Or if not, can I get a larger chuck.

I runs smooth and fairly quiet up to about 3000rpm, after that it gets noisy, the belt seems to want to run a bit wild.

Wondering about proper lubrication points.

Thanks

 

[exmaxima1]

You have a Jacobs 33 taper with the threaded "safety collar" on the chuck. Very common. Your trailer jack table lift looks good!

 

[JimNorman]

You have a Jacobs 33 taper with the threaded "safety collar" on the chuck. Very common. Your trailer jack table lift looks good!

Am I to understand that if I loosen the collar I can remove the chuck and there is a female taper? That would be good news.

 

[shawhite]

Yes usually you loosen the collar and use wedges to remove the chuck from the spindle.

 

[tool_scrounge]

Chuck has a female taper. Spindle has a male taper.