Rockwell 17-600 Advice/Help

[tigercreek]

I've been a longtime viewer and finally joined.

I was given an old 17-600 (1964? #1339409) if I would come and pick it up. Can't say no to that!
It was stored in a covered and semi-closed shed in South GA.
It is in poor shape BUT, amazingly enough, fires up and works without any obvious problems.
My questions concern missing, missing/broken, broken parts.

Many of theses parts may be impossible to fin/replace/repair and I wouls like advice/pictures/help in what things should look like, what I need to worry about and what I don't.
A - concerns the feed dial. It is missing and I can't even find a picture of what it should look like. Does this control the set depth of the drill?
B - concerns the crank/gearing assembly which appears to have never been there. Does this control belt tension?

C- concerns the hub. One handle is still there held in by a screw. Really bad shape. Would a Clausing hub work as a replacement since these seem to be hard to find?

D - This DP has no on/off power. Would it make good sense to install an old on/off switch here?

Finally, here is a pic of the motor that was used to replace whatever was here originally.

Thanks for any help/tips you can send my way. I'm sure I can bring this back to a much cleaner, working machine - but I don't want to be going down a road with no good ending.

 

[Davefr]

I have experience with a couple 17-600's.

A - That does look like a feed dial/indicator. As long as you have a good spring inside that housing you could probably get by until you can find or reproduce the missing parts

B - This is a rack and pinion assembly for lowering and raising the head vs the table. Generally you can transfer the table raising mechanism parts to this housing. I believe these DP's came with only one rack and pinion system for the user to choose what part of the DP should be raised or lowered. (head vs table). Or both if you can find another rack and pinion kit.

C -I don't know but these Delta/Rockwell hubs shouldn't be too hard to find. I usually see them on Ebay.

D - Yes, or better yet, a VFD control panel.

Start putting together a list of what you need and take it over the the BOYD thread at OWWM. I've found the members there are very helpful with supplying some hard to find parts at reasonable prices. Also check with GJ member 454ragtop. He might have some more 17-600 parts. (He saved my **** on an otherwise unobtainium part!!)

You **** to get this one for free. Rough but a rewarding project and a wonderful machine when complete. My advice is to disassemble it completely and start the restoration from the ground up.

Make sure you service or replace all ball bearings. (4 in the quill/spindle assembly and 2 in the motor). A spun bearing can ruin a hard to find spindle.

This is the latest one I rescued/restored. I'm just waiting for the VFD to arrive.

And here's my first one.

 

[tigercreek]

Thanks. That's exactly the kind of info I was looking for.
Don't hate me for the price - I'm hoping this project doesn't end up like most - costing more than if I'd bought a complete unit. Love working on stuff, though.
Something tell me this prees won't look half as good as your first on when I'm finished. Hell, even the serial# plate is just about gone!
Thanks again.

 

[Packard V8]

Congrats on the freebie. The 17" Delta is one of the best DPs a home shop could hope to have. And yes all the parts are readily available from the members at OWWM. (Carefully read their pages of rules; they're serious about enforcing them.) Also, many 17-600s are parted out on eBay; just watch and bid up to your limit. If you don't win that auction, you'll get an idea of what the going price is.

jack vines

 

[tigercreek]

Thanks, Jack. Already been checking ebay for parts - or lack thereof.

 

[454ragtop]

Welcome, as mentioned, those are great drill presses and usually worth the time and effort to restore. If that one has a table raising mechanism, don't worry about the head raiser, very few came with both. I do have those parts, but really, pretty unlikely you'd move the head. The head raisers are usually installed on the production drill presses which don't use a movable table, the table is actually the top of a bench. I think that hub is repairable, if not, they're around, though I have no spares at the moment. Definitely install a switch in the face of the head, either for the current motor, or a VFD control station if you swap to a 3 phase.

 

[tigercreek]

454ragtop
Thanks for the info and reply.
After getting home today I began removing parts to find what was missing or broken. So far I have been pleased with the ease parts are coming off.
I plan on attempting to repair the hub - and I am not worried about adding/replacing the head raising mechanism since the table raising mechanism is complete and functional.
The parts I know I'm going to need are all on the depth stop housing -
(The group of parts that contain/control the feed dial)
Screw - SP-732
Knurled knob - DP-544
Spring - 928-01-041-5879
Washer - SP-1610
Feed dial - 402-07-037-5001

Plus -
Lock screw - NCS-178
Brass plug- 402-07-074-5001

If you have any of those parts I would be pleased to purchase them from you.
Thanks

 

[454ragtop]

Sorry can't help with those parts. That's a micrometer spindle stop, not often seen. In fact I've never seen one in real life, only pics. Have had probably at least 15 - 20 of these 17" Delta's over the years, all had the more common threaded rod type of depth stop on the other side of the head. Other than the feed dial, the rest of those parts sound like something that could be fabbed or adapted if you had a good idea what they look like. Probably should ask over at OWWM also as Dave suggested.

 

[454ragtop]

Also, be very careful with the pulleys, treat them like the fragile somewhat tough to find parts they are. Because of the dissimilar metals, they tend to seize on the shafts. Patience, a good penetrating oil, and often a little heat, like from a propane torch. help a lot. The last couple parts machines I picked up had broken/missing pulleys.

 

[tigercreek]

As I figured since I was having so much trouble finding pics and info on these. Thanks.

 

[exmaxima1]

Geez, that will be a lot of work. I think I might have said no, but I hope you enjoy the experience.

 

[tigercreek]

Make sure you service or replace all ball bearings. (4 in the quill/spindle assembly and 2 in the motor). A spun bearing can ruin a hard to find spindle.

Davefr

Are you sure about the number of bearings in my particular machine?
According to the schematics and parts list there are only two bearings in the spindle - parts #78(920-04-021-5116) and #80(SP-5360) in the schematic.

And while I'm on the bearings, any idea of where I could find the #920-04-021-5116? It comes up obsolete or unavailable everywhere I've looked. Maybe there is an updated # replacement?

Thanks

 

[Davefr]

Davefr

Are you sure about the number of bearings in my particular machine?
According to the schematics and parts list there are only two bearings in the spindle - parts #78(920-04-021-5116) and #80(SP-5360) in the schematic.

And while I'm on the bearings, any idea of where I could find the #920-04-021-5116? It comes up obsolete or unavailable everywhere I've looked. Maybe there is an updated # replacement?

Thanks

There are also 2 bearings in the lower spindle. (#110 in your drawing).

I believe bearing *5116 is a std 6205 with a retaining ring. That makes it a 6205 -2RS. Sourcing bearings should not be a problem IMHO.

My advice is to start soaking #109 (ie BG-12) in Kroil as soon as you can. It's a retaining ring that holds the lower spindle in the quill and can be tough to remove. Making a special removal tool is Plan B (see image).

Also separating the upper and lower spindles requires finding the hidden woodruff half moon key under the spring collar. OWWM has some great tutorials on spindle disassembly/rebuild unless the Photobucket images went "****".

Feel free to keep asking ?'s here. Pay attention the 454ragtops warning on pulleys. Whatever you do don't beat on them to remove them. Use his suggestions and also use a gear puller.

P.S. Have you opened up "A". Is there a good spring inside?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I have the same drill press with the same spindle stop! Mine is serial 1326795 with a Dayton 1.5HP replacement motor very similar to yours. Feed dial is missing on mine as well.

This is what the depth stop looks like new:

I ended up putting a on/off switch on the front of mine. I thought about a VFD, but I really don't need that expense or complexity. Punches holes in steel 100x better than anything else I have as-is.

 

[exmaxima1]

Congrats on the freebie. The 17" Delta is one of the best DPs a home shop could hope to have. And yes all the parts are readily available from the members at OWWM.
jack vines

I have a 40's Delta 17 and believe one of its key attributes was the upper support bearing on the spindle pulley, but the "newer" 17-600 does not appear to have that. The lack of the upper bearing would seem to greatly diminish the reputation of that classic drill press. In any case, I would imagine that many of the parts are not interchangeable between the models.

 

[tigercreek]

There are also 2 bearings in the lower spindle. (#110 in your drawing).

P.S. Have you opened up "A". Is there a good spring inside?

Thanks. Missed that because nothing is indicated as "bearing" in the parts. Being too literal I guess.
The spring works but everything seems heavy. Needs a good cleaning, new grease and oil.
Looks like I'll be making tools and getting in trouble soon

 

[tigercreek]

I have the same drill press with the same spindle stop! Mine is serial 1326795 with a Dayton 1.5HP replacement motor very similar to yours. Feed dial is missing on mine as well.

I ended up putting a on/off switch on the front of mine. I thought about a VFD, but I really don't need that expense or complexity. Punches holes in steel 100x better than anything else I have as-is.

The pic is very helpful. Thanks.
I'm not going to worry about a VFD either. It's overkill for my situation plus the 3 phase motor is no longer involved. On/Off right in front of me is what I'm looking for.

 

[chrislehr]

I have the same drill press with the same spindle stop! Mine is serial 1326795 with a Dayton 1.5HP replacement motor very similar to yours. Feed dial is missing on mine as well.

I ended up putting a on/off switch on the front of mine. I thought about a VFD, but I really don't need that expense or complexity. Punches holes in steel 100x better than anything else I have as-is.

Not the same drill, but I recommend waiting for a Cutler-Hammer 110 switch on ebay. Also, check the BOYD section over at OWWM - a WTB ad there usually gets some replies.. I just recently replaced a Powermatic 1150 table collar there and it only took 2 days. Like Amazon prime for 25+ year old parts.... I also found a table for a 1906 bandsaw! Amazing.

20170721_220850665_iOS by Chris Lehr, on Flickr

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Not the same drill, but I recommend waiting for a Cutler-Hammer 110 switch on ebay. Also, check the BOYD section over at OWWM - a WTB ad there usually gets some replies.. I just recently replaced a Powermatic 1150 table collar there and it only took 2 days. Like Amazon prime for 25+ year old parts.... I also found a table for a 1906 bandsaw! Amazing.

20170721_220850665_iOS by Chris Lehr, on Flickr

I'll have to check that site out! My motor is wired for 220v though. I searched around for a switch of the right vintage for a while but couldn't, so got one off amazon.

 

[tigercreek]

I have one of those switches for a single phase on the way to me.
I placed a WTB ad on OWWM last night and it has yet to show up.

 

[chrislehr]

I'll have to check that site out! My motor is wired for 220v though. I searched around for a switch of the right vintage for a while but couldn't, so got one off amazon.

if you are still talking single phase, that switch does both

here's one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cutler-Hamm...642480?hash=item1c8fdbf9b0:g:b98AAOSwbUtZpGL4

 

[Davefr]

I'll have to check that site out! My motor is wired for 220v though. I searched around for a switch of the right vintage for a while but couldn't, so got one off amazon.

Just be very careful when shopping for these CH pushbutton switches. It seems like 99% of them are momentary vs. maintained. That means they're used with magnetic starters.

For your DP you need one that's maintained. (ie full on/off vs start/stop)

Unfortunately the sellers on Ebay usually don't know the difference.

I think the one in chrislehrs link is momentary.

 

[chrislehr]

But I run mine 110 without a starter just fine... Am I at risk of hurting the motor or switch then?

 

[exmaxima1]

But I run mine 110 without a starter just fine... Am I at risk of hurting the motor or switch then?

That is not a momentary switch, it is the correct switch for use w/o starter. I sold one just like it (the 3 phase version) a few months ago with one leg burnt out: still fine for single phase 120 or 240.

One more thing. If using that switch for 120 single phase it will last longer if you run 2 of the poles in parallel for the hot wire, and don't switch the neutral wire (no need to ever break the neutral conductor anyway). That way the pole contacts will share the higher current load of a 120-volt configured motor.

 

[Davefr]

But I run mine 110 without a starter just fine... Am I at risk of hurting the motor or switch then?

No, if it's maintained vs momentary you're fine. It's not easy to tell them apart because they look almost the same.

 

[tigercreek]

I bought the Cutler Hammer 9115 H83 Single Phase. It appeared to be the one I needed. Correct?