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Rockwell Drill Press Resto

nine4gmc

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Here is a Rockwell 15-017 I picked up recently. I need a motor, motor mount, motor pulley and power switch if anyone has parts laying around, PM me please!
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I have wire wheeled everything since these pics, will post updates tomorrow.

My big question....What color would you go with?
 
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Packard V8

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The good news is the table for that DP was made for many years and is fairly common.

The bad news is if one is not careful, buying a power switch, motor, mount, pulley and table one piece at a time over on owwm.org will cost more than a complete working DP bought locally.

jack vines
 

Glacial_Speed

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Sorry, I have no parts. But owwm is where you want to go if you want to do an exact restoration.

As for color.......a metallic red would be cool, but that's just me.

The switch isn't too critical if you're staying with fractional HP motors, most of what you buy could handle it.

Of course you could get variable speed control with a VFD for about $125 and a 3 phase motor, then you would never have to change belts/pulleys again.

It looks like the motor was mounted on a plate that swung on a hinge pin.....shouldn't be too hard to fab if you can't find the parts. Good luck
 
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nine4gmc

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check out Vintage machinery. org

I have visited that site but I do not like the site format or layout, it is not user friendly. I tend to get lost or confused and find myself back here.

The good news is the table for that DP was made for many years and is fairly common.

The bad news is if one is not careful, buying a power switch, motor, mount, pulley and table one piece at a time over on owwm.org will cost more than a complete working DP bought locally.

jack vines

The table I am not worried about, I will use it like I stole it until it breaks. I think I paid $20 for the DP at auction, I was going to part it out but after breaking it down, I decided to keep it and rebuild it for use. I have a floor model 15-665 with a 1hp motor on it, I may use it while I restore the floor model. The pulleys are different on the floor model though, it is a 6 speed. Also, the switch is a standard beige light switch so I am actually looking for two power switches....

Sorry, I have no parts. But owwm is where you want to go if you want to do an exact restoration.

As for color.......a metallic red would be cool, but that's just me.

The switch isn't too critical if you're staying with fractional HP motors, most of what you buy could handle it.

Of course you could get variable speed control with a VFD for about $125 and a 3 phase motor, then you would never have to change belts/pulleys again.

It looks like the motor was mounted on a plate that swung on a hinge pin.....shouldn't be too hard to fab if you can't find the parts. Good luck

I get lost at OWWM...:lol_hitti I thought about red, then I googled red drill press and threw up a lil in my mouth. I like subtle colors, I was thinking a greenish/gray or brown or light gold. :dunno: I can definitely rig a switch and fab a plate, I was just hoping someone had the right style laying around. I have a 3/4 HP three phase motor on a disc sander and a spare 1 hp three phase on the shelf. Where can I get a VFD fror $125? Links please!

What size HP motor are you looking for?

I would like 3/4 or 1 hp but since I have a 1 hp on the floor model, I could get by with 1/2 on the bench.
 

Outlawmws

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That DP appears to use the "swinging gate" motor mount, so fairly easily fabbed up. There should be a corresponding hole to the one in your top picture, (high and to the left) and that stud sticking out the back in pic 2 is the tensioner for the belt.that simply holds open the "gate",and the screw on the side keeps it in place.

I have a newer version of a Rockwell, so here are a couple of pics of its mount:

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If you just want a working DP, and not a "restore" (Sound like it to me), most any 1/2" 1725 motor will do the trick. a 1040 would be better for getting slower speeds. if you plan to drill steels a lot, you need to go slower still for larger drill sizes. >3/8" say)

You can do an intermediate pulley set, or go for a variable speed. Treadmill motors are great for this.

Get a cast off treadmill (Often free or cheap on Craig's List), and scavenge the motor and the last PC card in the control circuit (it will have a heat sink, and wires going from it to the motor, possibly through a Choke that resembles a transformer coil. those two or three items are all you need)

With that you can fairly easily have motor speeds from a couple of hundred RPM to about 6000 RPM.

The only hard part of a treadmill motor is the drive pulley. That needs to be modified on a lathe to fit, or you could run the original treadmill drive to an intermediate pulley and regular V belts from there. or a last possibility as to convert the spindle pulley over to the Treadmill belt type.
 

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John Timmins

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I bought a floor model about 2 months ago for $100. The seller brought it down to Florida from Wisconsin. The color is grey. I believe this is original, and it is in very good shape for a 1959 model.

I need to lift the assembly higher on the pipe since the belt rubs on the pipe.

The motor swings on the hinged frame to allow the belt to be loosened to change the speed. I am assuming the the on-off switch is original.

I will get more pictures for you if you want. It is no problem for me to take the belt off and swing the motor. The on-off switch should be available from Cutler Hammer. This is a 120V motor.
 

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Glacial_Speed

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Subtle..... like a bronze color or perhaps a mint green or dark silver? Not screaming yellow or orange. I'm not very good at picturing subtle for some reason. :lol:

Anyway the VFD I was thinking of is actually more than I thought....it's $130 for a 1 HP Teco FM50 from factorymation, plus whatever shipping is.

http://www.factorymation.com/s.nl/it.A/id.193/.f?sc=2&category=30

But before you invest a whole bunch of time.....how's the runout on just a hand spin?
 

mrbreezeet1

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I bought a floor model about 2 months ago for $100. The seller brought it down to Florida from Wisconsin. The color is grey. I believe this is original, and it is in very good shape for a 1959 model.

I need to lift the assembly higher on the pipe since the belt rubs on the pipe.

The motor swings on the hinged frame to allow the belt to be loosened to change the speed. I am assuming the the on-off switch is original.

I will get more pictures for you if you want. It is no problem for me to take the belt off and swing the motor. The on-off switch should be available from Cutler Hammer. This is a 120V motor.

That's nice, looks like a OEM Delta motor too.

a 1040 would be better for getting slower speeds
That reminds me, my craftsman's DP motor can be switched for a lower RPM. I just may do that.
 

Outlawmws

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That's nice, looks like a OEM Delta motor too.

a 1040 would be better for getting slower speeds
That reminds me, my craftsman's DP motor can be switched for a lower RPM. I just may do that.

I'd bet you could use a DPDT switch or similar, and have both high and low speeds. post the wiring diagram for that...
 
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nine4gmc

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Here is where I am at today, all clean and wire wheeled. I went with camo green but clear coated it. I ran out of clear before I finished the bottom and table but you get the idea with the shield and body. The bearings are like new so they will not be changed. I will probably rob the motor off my floor model until I can get it rebuilt to use on this one.

pic01233.jpg



Nice press John, I would love to find a floor model like that to match! Quick question, the handle on the front of the body above the spindle to the left, what is it for? My floor model has one but this bench model does not, it just has a bolt and nut.
 

Outlawmws

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Here is where I am at today, all clean and wire wheeled. I went with camo green but clear coated it. SNIP

Nice press John, I would love to find a floor model like that to match! Quick question, the handle on the front of the body above the spindle to the left, what is it for? My floor model has one but this bench model does not, it just has a bolt and nut.

That is looking VERY nice!

The lever you are asking about is a quill lock, and can also be used to minimize the clearances on the quill. Your nut and bolt can do the same, it's just not as convenient in a working situation. Be sure to lube the quill well when assembling it so you don't get wear on it. If you have it, way oil for mills and lathes is a good choice. If not, something thick and sticky, like maybe 140 wt.
 

John Timmins

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Post a picture of the name tag please and the serial number. Do the same for the other drill press too.

Packard V8 sent me a link to the date code for these Rockwell tools. We can see what year they were made.

The Name Plate looks different on your benchtop than the one on my floor model. I believe the different cities where they were made have different style name tags ?
 
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nine4gmc

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Thanks Pomona, I went back and forth on colors but I am real happy with the outcome.

Outlaw, I plan to use the motor and mount from the floor model temporarily until I can locate another motor and find or fab a plate. I will be removing the motor from the floor model later tonight. It looks like a split pin holding the bracket on the housing?

Here John, the floor model is a 1980 from what I could find when I got it.

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http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2320796&postcount=15
 

Outlawmws

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TSNIP
Outlaw, I plan to use the motor and mount from the floor model temporarily until I can locate another motor and find or fab a plate. I will be removing the motor from the floor model later tonight. It looks like a split pin holding the bracket on the housing?

Here John, the floor model is a 1980 from what I could find when I got it.


pic01239.jpg


http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2320796&postcount=15

Mine are just two bolts, one on top, one on he bottom, but mine is newer than that bench top model.

For grins my labels look the same as what you posted, and the S/N is 1573754
 
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nine4gmc

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Well what do you know, Outlaw has the one made the year I was born... Let me know if you want to let it go Outlaw ;)

I got the motor and mount freshened up from my floor model. I doubt it was the original motor, it's a hazardous sealed style motor and the switch wire was just drilled out the side of the sealed junction box. :dunno: I want to find a new wire junction box for it and a plug end, I have a new 10/3 cord ready. The motor is a 3/4 hp, 11 amp high or low voltage, I have it wired for 110v for convenience of outlets. The bottom groove on the 6 groove pulley lines up with the bottom groove on the heads 4 groove pulley so it will work for now until I can locate a proper pulley, or better yet the pulley and the intermediate setup(yeah right). I also wired up this decorator switch until I can find a cool push button switch like original using 12/3. Last but not least, I picked up a 4" cross slide vise NIB for $20 off CL but the bolt holes do not line up with this table, what do I do?

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Outlawmws

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I may have a spare 4 groove pulley; what shaft dia is the motor?

Pics on he X-Y table sitting on the DP table would help with advise.
 
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nine4gmc

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The shaft is standard 5/8", it would be so nice if you have a spare one you'd sell!

Here is the vise on centered on the table. I tried cornering it and every which a way but no lining up. Maybe fab some clamps that will bolt on my table and hold it in place?

pic01246.jpg


pic01247.jpg
 

Outlawmws

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5/8" seems to be tough. My "new" treadmill motor was 5/8" and I had to use a single pulley...

I have several 4 sheave pulleys, and all are 1/2" including the original I took off the Rockwell, (with original Rockwell motor.)

I think you need a spreader/adapter plate for the X-Y table, use countersunk socket head screws from the bottom, and go for it.
 
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nine4gmc

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Thanks ckadams00, I finished the electrical connection box and added a flex lamp after color matching with a 3500k 13w cfl.
pic01248.jpg
 

Outlawmws

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The light looks good, but is it only on when the drill is spinning? If so I'd ad a dedicated toggle switch to the light sourced to north of the motor switch so you can control it independently
 
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nine4gmc

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thanks guys! Outlaw, the light is wired constant separately and has it's own power switch on the top of the reflector. It was from an old upholstery sewing machine table, I just drilled a hole in the metal enclosure, shortened the threaded shaft and bolted it in.
pic01249.jpg


The drill press will reside on this DIY roll cabinet, this was an office cabinet but I put wheels from a heavy duty media cart on it to make it mobile. I need to freshen up the paint on the cart next I guess.
pic01250.jpg
 

Outlawmws

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I didn't notice the switch! :thumbup:

If you are going to roll it around much, Are you going to bolt it down? Is the height a comfortable work height?

Yeah, with the base painted (I assume to match?) that will look great! Very professional! :beer:
 

Outlawmws

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So what is going to be the deal with the floor model? I would have thought you would have used that one (personally I like the floor models better...)
 
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nine4gmc

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I plan on lag bolting it to the wood top it's sitting on for stability. The height is EXACTLY the same as the floor model, measuring 59" from the center of the power switch hole to the floor.

I like the floor model but the crank lift table has the arc of shame pretty serious, the Jacobs chuck is tack welded on and the bench model seemed like a easier one to take on as a first rebuild. I have a 1/2 hp motor I picked up for $10 but it shot sparks when I tested it out. If I can rebuild it or find another cheap, I will probably restore the floor model, if not then I will part it out.
 

Outlawmws

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Is the crank lift and table an integrated unit? or is the table lift separate? if the latter, you can move the "good" table over to the floor model. the only real differences should be the column height, and possibly the base.
 

Outlawmws

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I plan on lag bolting it to the wood top it's sitting on for stability. The height is EXACTLY the same as the floor model, measuring 59" from the center of the power switch hole to the floor.

I like the floor model but the crank lift table has the arc of shame pretty serious, the Jacobs chuck is tack welded on and the bench model seemed like a easier one to take on as a first rebuild. I have a 1/2 hp motor I picked up for $10 but it shot sparks when I tested it out. If I can rebuild it or find another cheap, I will probably restore the floor model, if not then I will part it out.

This sounds like a candidate for a treadmill motor swap!
 
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nine4gmc

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Here is a side by side shot of the two. The only real difference is with the floor model, you can get more height, most things I drill will fit in the bench model.
pic01251.jpg


Is the crank lift and table an integrated unit? or is the table lift separate? if the latter, you can move the "good" table over to the floor model. the only real differences should be the column height, and possibly the base.

Unfortunately, they are integrated. The floor model has a three spoke handle but the shaft through the head is longer and will not swap. I could put the lift table on the bench model but it is 21-1/4" wide x 15-1/2" deep, it's freaking HUGE, plus the arc of shame...pics
pic01252.jpg


The lift thing broke loose from the collar and will need welding.
pic01253.jpg


All integrated.
pic01254.jpg


Here is a really cool unidentified box I got from member Lkdelta today in the mail, THANKS Lkdelta!! It fits perfectly behind the drill press and will store all the bits, etc.
pic01255.jpg


It already had dividers and felt, I will redo the felt when I restore the box though.
pic01256.jpg


Like it was made for it!
pic01257.jpg
 

Lkdelta

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Here is a really cool unidentified box I got from member Lkdelta today in the mail, THANKS Lkdelta!! It fits perfectly behind the drill press and will store all the bits, etc.

It already had dividers and felt, I will redo the felt when I restore the box though.
pic01256.jpg


Like it was made for it!

seems strange to see it in pics now
 
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