Rolling Welding Table

[DesertSparky57]

I started on my welding table the other night. After looking here at many different ones I decided to give it a shot. This isn't my first welding project, but I am very new to welding and fitting of cut material to be welded. I've built a 125gal fish tank stand, a drill press stand, and now this. So yeah I'm a noob

I look at it as a learning opportunity. So far, I have learned that I can offset my inability to weld like a pro with my ability to cut very accurate material and to fit the pieces together as best I can before attempting to weld them. This is the first time I have ever cleaned and prepped the metal properly. Wow it makes a huge difference, much the same as prep does in painting. Degreasing and mill scale removing seems to make my welder work so much better, even though I've only tacked my pieces so far.

For removing the mill scale I used a 60 grit 4" flap, then wiped with acetone to degrease. Shiny!

I decided on a sort of trapezoid shaped table, I guess. Basically the top of the support frame is a smaller footprint than the bottom. I did it for two reasons, to give me lots of edge area open to clamp to and to make it more stable because my table needs to be fairly narrow to fit in my workspace. The top will be 26x48 probably 3/8 or 1/2. So if I just brought legs straight down the base would be very narrow if I want a 6" overhang all the way around.

Material is 2x2x.250 square tube. I'm waiting on casters from castercity.com and machine feet from McMaster. Oh and my harborfreight band saw snapped its original blade after one project, the drill press stand, so I'm at a standstill until I can make it to McFadden's to get a newy love that place.

I love to draw also, so I busted out the Pencil2.0 and cadded it up. Been years since I did an isometric.

The plan-

4 rotating casters with full lock, there will be four adjustable feet just inboard of the casters to lift and level the table. I have since updated the drawing with a new overall height and the tilt of the legs came out to 8 instead of 10 degrees.

I had to make a temp table, some barstools and junior beam worked okay. I loathe welding on the floor. I'll get a pic of the setup later. I tacked the ends of the table up and got the drilled and tapped pads for the casters on one of them. I will add more pics tomorrow.

The piece is perfectly symmetrical, so I am happy. After the whole thing is tacked I am going to put a center support across the bottom for an expanded metal shelf, round stock on the end somewhere for clamps, two mig holsters on opposite corners and a trailer hitch type setup for my old vise centered on one long side.

Anyway, I'm no pro but I sure do enjoy working in my garage. And I won't be afraid to put close ups of the fitting and my welds, which will be ugly, so more pics to follow. Thanks for reading!

 

[fourjeepin]

Looking good!

 

[Zengineer]

LOL, your pencilCAD looks to be working pretty well! I can't recall the proper way to do isometrics... that class was nearly 20 years ago now!

 

[DesertSparky57]

Thanks fourjeepin.

PencilCAD2.0, the latest and greatest super computer. Isometrics is like riding a bike, it totally ***** and you wish you had something better! I did that one purely for fun, although it did help with my cut list once I changed the height.

Next few days I should find some spare time and get some more progress pics up.

 

[chevroletfreak]

Wow, that brings back memories. I know I could not do as well as you did on those drawings. I love it! Oh and nice table

 

[DesertSparky57]

Thanks zengineer and Chevroletfreak. If I can't draw it I can't build it. Just the way my OCD brain works. I guess it centers more around the fact that nothing pisses me off more than re-doing something because I failed to see some critical measurement somewhere. Like I said, OCD

All a learning experience, makes for great times in the garage! I guess I have one small update. Got a small box from castercity. I had been looking elsewhere for good casters, man am I glad I found this place. Pricing is far better than anywhere I could find and by quite a bit too. Four total lock swiveling casters, they even match my finish color. sweet.

Now I just need a bandsaw blade and I'm back on track.

 

[MoonRise]

Nice.

Nice drawing(s) and interesting looking table.

OCD alert: You'll have to revise the drawings yet again (Rev. B). You posted that you were using 2x2x.250 square tube, but the drawings list 2x2x3/16 tube. Oh, the horror!!!

 

[DesertSparky57]

Lol that has actually been corrected good eye though MoonRise!!


Oh and yes it was marked rev B

 

[theknurl]

i rimmed my 24x60 welding table with 3/8"x3"x3" leg in.....even though the top is Navy plate 1/8" of stainless on 5/8" of steel,
its flat

i put a shelf about 5" below the 3" for all the blocks, angles and spacers you need for welding, to leave room for my knees under the table while welding
the 6 or so C clamps that i usually use hang off the edge of the shelf (leg up angle) at the edge

the big J H Williams clamps and pipe clamps are somewhere else

no wheels on the table, it is right next to the Lincoln 300/300

 

[TerryH]

Nice table and nice drawing. I love to draw as well. I'm too stupid to use the CAD programs but I can run a ruler and a pencil.

Looking forward to seeing more progress pics!!

 

[Zeppe807]

My table weighs about 1200lbs and rolls with ease. I have to use a floor jack to lower and raise it, but it works.





If I were to suggest one thing: do not put too much heat to the top to weld it down. My 1" plate warped about 1/8". If I were to do it again I would stich weld a 5/16" x 2" x 2" angle frame to the bottom of the plate, and then weld the angle to my legs.


Looks good!


Joe Zeppe

 

[DesertSparky57]

Thanks for the tip on warping the top. There are small bits missing from the drawing actually. The accessories like clamp storage and mig holsters are just too much of a pain to draw on the full assembly. I'll most likely draw my vise mount up separately. One thing missing is the angle iron tabs that the top will be welded to, spread out evenly I'm hoping to not warp the top at all.

I thought about doing a lifting wheel type setup like what Zeppe has pictured, but I settled on fixed wheels because the table is actually quite small, leveling with feet will be fairly easy.

Thanks for looking and the ideas, I really didn't think too many people would be interested in such a small table. Work is sucking my free time from me, hopefully some progress pics up soon.

 

[DesertSparky57]

My temp welding barstool table. Pure luck it is actually level.

McFadden had the blade. Of course

I'm using a Lincoln 140 er70s6 .030 c25@28cfh. Voltage tap D wire feed is at about 200ipm. I think I could go lower on the gas, any tips for cfh??

The gap to fill in. The base pad for caster is 1/2x2 1/2 hot roll I believe, tapped 1/2x13 for the stud on casters.

First try. I can handle stick out pretty good, but my travel speed is all over the place.

Another try, maybe a little better. Maybe.

The one I like the best. I managed the width better on this one.

The welds stayed fairly flat mostly, but I've still got lots to learn. I just can't wait to weld on a real table instead of some barstools and junior beam!!!

Once I get the ends stuck together with the cross pieces it's on to storage and some shelves.

I'll be fitting wheels on soon!!

 

[DesertSparky57]

I am paying more attention to my angle, and trying to move as evenly as I can. Maybe one day I will actually put down a "pretty" weld. At this point I'm happy with strong. Is this cold looking to you??

 

[DesertSparky57]

It rolls now

 

[dave lewis]

Not at all...
HAZ. Looks real good.
Dave

 

[sscustom]

looks nice keep up the great work

 

[DesertSparky57]

Occasionally I can get the squirt gun to work right. Sometimes

It only happens on the damn test piece before I actually start though! I haven't had time to work in the garage lately, but managed a little something the other day. I got my cross piece for the expanded metal bottom in and put on my torch holders. The frame is fully welded except for the caster mounts, those will be last just in case I need to shim one.

One more.

Landscaping my back yard is killing my garage time, but I hope to nearly finish the table this weekend.

 

[sscustom]

wow great stuff keep us all updated

 

[DesertSparky57]

Not bad for a sparky with next to zero real training looking out of a $30 BlueFlame welding hood on a borrowed welder. I've got a piece of fine mesh expanded metal cut to slide in for the top shelf, but I left it at my dads place. I have also officially scrapped the adjustable feet. I've been using the table, minus the top, and so far I can not ever imagine needing to level the table up and leave it. Rolling it around makes things very nice! The total locking casters are more stable than I had anticipated, so out with the feet.

I like this one

Next up is primer and paint then the top!!

 

[spgirard30]

another idea to help adjust it if its not level would be to put a nut on the caster stud and then screw in the stud, use the nut to adjust the final height. How does that HF bandsaw work?

 

[spgirard30]

Great work by the way, I was thinking of doing something very close to what your doing since I am in a 2 car garage that my wife demands both vehicles get parked in.

 

[DesertSparky57]

Spgirard30, The bandsaw is pretty sweet. Honestly so far it's like it isn't a HF tool, it's just not the kind of saw you can cut with for days without a little maintenance. The blade wheels and guide bearings tend to **** more chips up than other saws I've used and the stand is for sure garbage, it will be outfitted with a new one shortly, also the supplied blade is literally a waste to even use. The drive wheels like an occasional wipe down. Overall, I like it.

Thanks about the table too, it's taking me a while to finish but I love it already and it doesn't even have a top yet. The entire plan for this table was so that it would fit along the wall of my garage and I can still pull in a car with a 90" track width, in a two car garage with a porky 60's muscle car stuffed in the other bay My drawings came out more accurate than I imagined, the only change was the overall height. I like tall work tables, this one is table-top-to-bent-elbow height, maybe a little tall for most people.

I shimmed one wheel with a fat 2" washer, no more wiggle

 

[machine_punk]

Great job. Drawing the project before building it is part of the fun for me too. As much as I like to design on paper, I usually force myself to work on the computer as quickly as possible...usually only 'napkin sketches' on paper, then move to 3D design software, since changes are so easy make there, without completely redrawing the project. I personally like Alibre Design 3D (now Geomagic) Personal Edition. Only $200 (less on Cyber Monday, if you can wait).

Nicely done. Your table design is a bit different than others, it meets your needs, and the fabrication is well done.

Kev

 

[DesertSparky57]

Thanks machine_punk.

I've messed around with a few of the trial edition CAD programs available and it is the only way to go for anything more complicated than a table. I just need to man up and choose one, and start using it more often. I think I have a trial of the Alibre you mentioned, I had no idea it was so cheap. Will have to look in to that one again.

 

[DesertSparky57]

After hitting the whole thing with a big fat cup brush and a good wipe down with acetone I put 2 coats of self-etching primer and 3 coats of Sunrise Red gloss Rustoleum on it. I am now officially ready for the top.

I am interested in everyone's opinion on the top. If you have a welding table speak up please, did you do 5/8" holes for the Stronghand type hold downs? Did you groove or do slat-type top to make clamping easy? I was thinking since the table is so small I could probably get away with maybe a 4"x4" pattern of maybe 3 rows of 5/8" holes through the middle area of the table. I don't foresee ever using most of the Stronghand hold downs, but the standoff type and a few others look very handy. Although a complete pattern across the whole table is a possibility too.

Any opinions out there in garage land?

Next is the grate extension that slides into the open tube ends to make a handy plasma table... After the top

 

[ilovevocs]

Your table is looking great, nice work. Not trying to hijack your post, but in addition to the your proposed questions above I am interested in hearing feedback from guys who were using a traditional welding table and have upgraded to a table that is drilled, slotted, and or segmented for fixturing.

Personally I end up making small fixtures to clamp and index my parts together most of the time. If I had a high end table I may not find myself doing so, but I can accomplish allot with a few drops of angle iron and box tube when clamping. I then clamp the work piece to the edge of the table. On some occasions I will tack something to the table and surface the table with a grinder when the project is over.

 

[DesertSparky57]

That's what I was thinking too ilovevocs, not hijacking either. Not sure if a fancy table that I would kick myself for tacking to is a good idea. I'm leaning strongly towards a standard flat top no holes.

I'm also thinking of going with either 28" or 30" by 48" top. It would give me ample over hang all around. I think a nice fat piece of 5/8" would look nice and beefy, would be warp free unless I decide to volcano heat it, and allow me to go bonkers with a BFH if the need ever arises.

This week I spend some time 'drop hunting'

Both of my practice creations. 3 more drawers for the DP stand and a table top will bring me one step closer to a fairly functional little shop.

Thanks for reading.

 

[ilovevocs]

My table top came from a local company that supplied roof racks to the automotive market. It was a fixture table at some point in its life and when they retooled they decided to scrap it. I know a guy who knows a guy who was their facility manager and he gave me call when It became available. Cost $0.00. My top is .5" thick and is roughly 24" wide and 5' long, I say roughly because it is really not a round dimension. Their were a few holes in it that are threaded from its fixture days, and it has a slight bow to the top, over the 5' length less than 1/16" of deflection. I know its their, and know to compensate for the deflection in the event that the part I am making will be affected by it. For the cost, I couldn't pass it up. To purchase something of that size I was going to be constrained to purchasing a full sheet and paying to have it sheered. Honestly if I had to go that route I would have went with a segmented style table using .5" x 4" to 6" wide flat stock and leaving a gap like others have done. If my garage could have supported a full 4'x8' table, or even 3'x6' the expense of the full sheet wouldn't have seemed so illogical.

 

[Zeppe807]

That's what I was thinking too ilovevocs, not hijacking either. Not sure if a fancy table that I would kick myself for tacking to is a good idea. I'm leaning strongly towards a standard flat top no holes.

I'm also thinking of going with either 28" or 30" by 48" top. It would give me ample over hang all around. I think a nice fat piece of 5/8" would look nice and beefy, would be warp free unless I decide to volcano heat it, and allow me to go bonkers with a BFH if the need ever arises.

This week I spend some time 'drop hunting'

Both of my practice creations. 3 more drawers for the DP stand and a table top will bring me one step closer to a fairly functional little shop.

Thanks for reading.

great job


Joe Zeppe

 

[DesertSparky57]

It has taken me some time to find what I need, but in the end I scored pretty good. Checked in my favorite scrap pile at a local metal shop and as usual, no pieces big enough or thick enough, I've been trying to find 1/2" or thicker at least 28x48....

Full sheet price from 2 different places here in town was $480 for 4x8x1/2 A36 hot roll. No way am I paying 500 after a cut to use only 30" of a sheet then have to store the other 7' of sheet, which most likely would never get used.

The place I was checking today just happened to be spring cleaning a little late this year! They tossed a massive piece of 3/4" on the scrap heap!!! Score baby!!! The guy track torched two ends for some beer money and helped me load it up.

Charged me .50 a pound, $145 out the door! Sweet!!!

It's got one hole in it, about 3/8 or so. After a quick fill in with the mig, and some shine with a flap and cup brush I will be the proud new owner of a sweet welding table.

So that's my Rolling Welding Table the drawings are posted up early in the thread, feel free to ask for measurements if you want to copy it. It fits right where I need it and rolls very nice, even with 295lbs. of plate on top of it.

Happy welding to you and thanks to those who offered suggestions and help to me.

Keep your eyes peeled, up next is a rolling stand for my JD2 M32 and matching Notchmaster, all color coordinated in Rust-O red of course

 

[McDammitt]

I sure like your table, could you send me the measurements and steel list? Thanks
McDammitt

 

[ilovevocs]

Table turned out really nice! That top was a nice find.

 

[alpinewhite]

How does one protect this beautiful red finish from welding spatter?

 

[DesertSparky57]

Oh I'm not worried if it gets beat up. but the table overhang is quite large. I will show pics of each edge with a tape, pics are sometimes deceiving when it comes to distance and depths without some sort of reference.

Narrow end

Long end

Finished height on 5" tall casters

As you can see pretty good overhang. Also note the height, most of my buddies do not like high tables. I however HATE leaning over all day or sitting so it works for me.

Wow, flattering Mcdammit. I'll post any measurements that you need. The original drawings in my first post were modified to work around a piece of tube I already had and to make the finished height taller. The B piece I measured on the short end of the piece, so pay attention when you miter or you'll toss a piece of brand new 2x2 in the heap because it's an inch too short...ask me how I know

Updated list

Updated Isometric

The angle worked out to an 8* angle and I had a pretty good fit. These pieces will get you the basic space frame. Note the isometric shows the labeled pieces, pretty easy

The distance from caster pad to lower cross supports was lengthened as well, to leave room to get my fat mig nozzle in to weld the pads fully as a last step, I figured building on the floor would leave me a little wobble and maybe a need to shim or refit one of the pads. A washer between the caster and pad actually worked spot on, I've found my garage floor to be highly irregular especially where I plan to park this table.

The add on like the shelf and stuff I didn't list out. A straight cut 'B' piece is needed to stiffen up the expanded metal on the bottom. I used 1/2x1/2 square to make the top shelf. I believe it was 14x34 rectangle trimmed a little to fit in nice and tight between the 2x2. The expanded metal on bottom is a 24"x36" piece trimmed to fit in tight as possible. And I used 2" pieces of scrap angle I had as tabs to attach the table to the top.

Tabs, welded where you can see here, also around on the top side between the tab and the frame before I laid the top on. Made for nice short welds to hold the top on, 6 times spaced around the table. This table is slated for fairly light weight stuff, I'm sure if you wanted to really burn the tabs in to the top you could. My little welder really has no business touching 3/4" plate, I'm pretty sure these little welds are strong enough to keep the top from coming off during the use I have planned for it. Maybe others would want beefier tabs.

The 2x2x.188 was 79.01$ for 20'. I had the other stuff already.
Casters cost me about 45$ shipped.
Top was 149.99 after checking the receipt.
So overall this is probably not the most economical approach to table building. I'm happy with it tho

 

[Hoologan]

That's crazy. I designed and built one identical to that about two years ago. I even did the tapered legs for more stability with the 24" x 48" design, the rails along the side to store clamps and grinders and painted it the same color too! Great minds think alike, I guess. I still need to add expanded metal to the lower area for material storage... Well done!

Yours is WAY over-engineered than mine (and a bit just way over-engineered for it's small size, IMO), but same concept. I used .065" square I think with 1/4 plate steel top. Perfect for the small jobs that I do.

 

[DesertSparky57]

Hoologan!!! That is awesome!!! Well done man!!!

The bottom shelf is a perfect spot to lay my extension cords all coiled and my grinder when not in use. I'm sure a small bucket of scraps and drops will make its way on there too. A very handy little table for sure!

Crazy how similar they are, I really thought I'd get laughed at for the tapered legs, it does make it a little harder to build, but gives me exactly what I need.

 

[DesertSparky57]

No doubt mine is over built. More weight is what I was after tho, so it is indeed a heavy little table!

 

[Hoologan]

Crazy how similar they are, I really thought I'd get laughed at for the tapered legs, it does make it a little harder to build, but gives me exactly what I need.

Thank you! No doubt. If you want a good 6-8" overhang for clamping with such a small table, I figure the tapered legs are the only way to get that and not have the thing fall over with all of that weight up top.

 

[MillerMav]

Great table!

What got me really excited though is seeing your drill press stand. I am such a DA. I never even thought to remove the base and bolt it onto something else. I have almost the same press and have been wracking my brain about a stand for it and the base has been constantly messing with me. Not anymore!!!