Roof Design HELP!

[wrenchmaster]

Hi, I am trying to figure out how I could join an addition to my current garage.

Getting the two roofs to blend is stoping me. I'm not working with an architect, I'd rather not.
Beside the roof, the addition would be easy to draw out for permit application.

My current garage is 20x21 and I want to add to the left a 22x28.

I'll supply a floor/wall outline and photo of my existing garage. Anything that comes to mind would be appreciated.

I can't remove the existing roof as a friend suggested, as that would be a no go with my wife. SHe'll have a nervous breakdown watching the destruction.
Kidding aside, she has CPTSD, I think there are plenty of folks on here that know all about that.
I just want to make it as painless as possible for her. If I build to the left side she won't even see it going on fro the house

 

[Hank11]

You could do a ******* pitch roof off to the left, but I think it would look ungainly, maybe even ugly. If you extend the plane of the right side of the roof up, you can get a better looking roofline.

You won’t actually be taking the whole roof system off, just the shingles and the sheathing. Sister on what you have and get the new ridge up higher. Support the ridge from the left side wall.

 

[wrenchmaster]

You could do a ******* pitch roof off to the left, but I think it would look ungainly, maybe even ugly. If you extend the plane of the right side of the roof up, you can get a better looking roofline.

You won’t actually be taking the whole roof system off, just the shingles and the sheathing. Sister on what you have and get the new ridge up higher. Support the ridge from the left side wall.

I hear what you’re saying but I can’t envision it.
Can you sketch something?

 

[coldh2o]

You could do a ******* pitch roof off to the left, but I think it would look ungainly, maybe even ugly. If you extend the plane of the right side of the roof up, you can get a better looking roofline.

You won’t actually be taking the whole roof system off, just the shingles and the sheathing. Sister on what you have and get the new ridge up higher. Support the ridge from the left side wall.

The issue with that design is the existing roof appears to be approaching a 12:12 pitch. Adding 28 feet to the existing 20 foot garage is going to put the new ridge more than twice as high as existing. Major roof framing required, and the proportions will be off.

I would turn the new roof 90 degrees to the existing, "tee" it in. With the new garage 22' wide and the existing 20' wide, the ridges can be made to match at almost the same pitch. That does create two valleys which aren't ideal for roof drainage, but can be accommodated with proper gutter design.

 

[Youngandfree]

Take the roof off and start over. Wife being "scared" doesn't trump the proper method of doing it.

 

[jack stand]

It's going to take a very clever and imaginative architect to design this one and have it look like it belongs.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I would turn the new roof 90 degrees to the existing, "tee" it in.

I think that's the only realistic choice if you want to leave the existing roof in place, but I'm also unsure about the 20x21 and 22x28 dimensions...I don't think there's an elegant way to make the unequal floor plans mesh with each other. Is building a separate garage a few feet away from the existing garage an option? They could be connected with a breezeway if desired (and that could make the whole thing qualify as a single structure, if that's necessary to meet local regulations.)

 

[billconner]

following

 

[larry4406]

Can your extension on the left side use a hipped roof, similar to this?

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Good call on the above design Larry. Keeps the eve height at the same level as the existing 'eyebrow', and even though his new ridgeline will be higher than the existing, due to increased depth (assuming 28' is depth) he would just break the new ridge to a 'broken hip' which would terminate into the existing ridge.
He could also do a gable end vs. hip, but personally, I like the hip design.

 

[wrenchmaster]

This is all great stuff.

My problem is the different floorpan sizes as Stuart points out.
He can see the problem.

I think that's the only realistic choice if you want to leave the existing roof in place, but I'm also unsure about the 20x21 and 22x28 dimensions...I don't think there's an elegant way to make the unequal floor plans mesh with each other. Is building a separate garage a few feet away from the existing garage an option? They could be connected with a breezeway if desired (and that could make the whole thing qualify as a single structure, if that's necessary to meet local regulations.)

I have to be 10 feet away from existing structures.
Put's me to close to boundry.

 

[wrenchmaster]

I think that's the only realistic choice if you want to leave the existing roof in place, but I'm also unsure about the 20x21 and 22x28 dimensions...I don't think there's an elegant way to make the unequal floor plans mesh with each other. Is building a separate garage a few feet away from the existing garage an option? They could be connected with a breezeway if desired (and that could make the whole thing qualify as a single structure, if that's necessary to meet local regulations.)

You see the problem..
Regarding the separate build.. it has to be 10' away. This puts me too close to boundary.

 

[wrenchmaster]

Can your extension on the left side use a hipped roof, similar to this?

I could if both structures where the same depth. But because I want to add 2' of depth, there lies the problem.
If you look at the floorpan drawing I supplied, notice the elements in the yellow circle. How will I get the points to terminate or meet nicely?

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Wrenchmaster... they would meet exactly as in the photo Larry provided, except the opposite, since your new building projects out further. Trust me, your roof will not be a problem.

 

[wrenchmaster]

Wrenchmaster... they would meet exactly as in the photo Larry provided, except the opposite, since your new building projects out further. Trust me, your roof will not be a problem.

Thanks for participating...

My new garage will project out 2' from the existing. That is the opposite of the photo.
How would the two valleys end at the bottom? The back walls line up so that valley would be fine. But the front would extend out 2' further than the front of existing garage.

 

[Hank11]

Larry’s picture is good and it kind of goes along with the little hip roof porch or entryway on the back of your house.

i’d want an upstairs though, but maybe that’s just me.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

As I stated, it would be a mirror image of the photo Larry provided. Just as the hips comes off of the outside corner, the valleys come off the inside corners.

 

[larry4406]

I drew this up quick in a basic architectural drafting plan. I assumed 9' ceilings, 8x8 doors in existing garage, and a 16x8 centered door in the new. It is drawn with 6/12 pitch roof, 12" deep soffits, and 4" walls.

The CAD program did pull the peak offset at the original front garage, I don't know how to correct that. I think it did it so that the ridge of the new garage would not overun the peak at the existing. This would be a relatively simple overbuild to achieve and rework of the soffit above the existing garage doors.

The plan view shows the ridge lines of the roofs. Hope this helps.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Your drawing over complicates it Larry. If you utilized the same roof pitch as the existing, being as the new is wider, the new ridge would be HIGHER than the existing, so the new ridge would break back down at 45° hips to match the right side pitch of the existing roof and the new front valley would start where the front hip meets the existing ridge. No reason for the offset ridges on the existing roof...unless I've forgotten to much roof framing since my 32 years as a framer taught me...which is possible!

 

[wrenchmaster]

You guys are on to something here...

Let me point out that the existing garage has an overhang in the front. Could the new garage return into it??

 

[DJF3]

Off the top of my head, I'm wondering if starting over with one building might be the way to go. One would have to do a detailed cost analysis to determine.

 

[larry4406]

You guys are on to something here...

Let me point out that the existing garage has an overhang in the front. Could the new garage return into it??

How much is the overhang on the front? Looked like 12" soffit.

 

[larry4406]

Your drawing over complicates it Larry. If you utilized the same roof pitch as the existing, being as the new is wider, the new ridge would be HIGHER than the existing, so the new ridge would break back down at 45° hips to match the right side pitch of the existing roof and the new front valley would start where the front hip meets the existing ridge. No reason for the offset ridges on the existing roof...unless I've forgotten to much roof framing since my 32 years as a framer taught me...which is possible!

Not sure I am following you.

The OP never stated the original pitch. Some speculated 12/12 but it is clearly less than 45 degrees. So I modeled both at 6/12 on a whim as that is what my eye guessed it is.

I clearly explained that the CAD program offset the ridge without my control and my thinking for why it did it was to ensure that the peak on the new garage did not overrun the peak of the now shifted old. Yes you could keep the ridge of the new section higher and clip it down to match the old; please show us with your CAD model.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Unfortunately, I'm not a CAD guy...at all, but you can get the idea in this pic. At the point where that 'broken hip' intersects with the existing ridge is the point where the opposite valley would start and terminate at the inside corner of the building offset. Hopefully the pic and my explanation helped.

 

[txvwnut]

Since you are tying into existing structure you going to be removing part of or half the roof anyway. Remove the entire roof and set the front of the new even with the front of the existing then run the ridge side wall to side wall instead of front to back. Then the overhang will be on the back and out of every day view.

 

[larry4406]

Since you are tying into existing structure you going to be removing part of or half the roof anyway. Remove the entire roof and set the front of the new even with the front of the existing then run the ridge side wall to side wall instead of front to back. Then the overhang will be on the back and out of every day view.

Not true.

The left side new garage can be an overbuild on the left side of the existing garage without tear off.

 

[txvwnut]

What about the overhang on the left side? I bet the framers won't be happy having to work under it.

 

[PoorUB]

Personally, I would consider blowing the roof off the old garage, and putting trusses over the whole works. Same pitch over everything. There will be a step in the roof where old meets new. Kinda like this.

 

[wrenchmaster]

Hey, you all have been helpful.
I can't remove the existing, so that's out.
Not looking to drive you all nuts.

Do you think I could get an architect to just work on the roof portion?
Does anyone know what it may cost for design?

Thanks for the feedback

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

You're overthinking this. What you want to build is VERY, VERY common...nothing new, nothing at all complex.

 

[andyvh1959]

Agreed. Chose the roof style that looks right to you. Match the ridge board height to the original roof and stick frame from there. The tails of the rafters will overhang enough to trim them back to match the finished eve heights.

 

[bcc0983]

The issue with that design is the existing roof appears to be approaching a 12:12 pitch. Adding 28 feet to the existing 20 foot garage is going to put the new ridge more than twice as high as existing. Major roof framing required, and the proportions will be off.

I would turn the new roof 90 degrees to the existing, "tee" it in. With the new garage 22' wide and the existing 20' wide, the ridges can be made to match at almost the same pitch. That does create two valleys which aren't ideal for roof drainage, but can be accommodated with proper gutter design.

I'm not trying to be "that guy" but that garage roof is nowhere near a 12/12. It's a 6/12 and maybe even 7/12 but I'm 99% certain it's a 6/12. I was in the roofing business here in Texas for the last 9 years and my guys loved it when we did these because it normally took only half a day.

 

[hobie18]

Build the garage/structure you want. Giant. Build it over the old. When covered enough, tear the old one down.

 

[walta]

I don’t see anything worth saving.

The new door will not match the old doors and it will look like **** if you don’t replace them.

Trying to match the old siding is going to a pain and get expensive.

All new windows or mismatched?

All the crazy roof framing will take tons of time- money and be stick built one board at a time.

When you are done you have an ugly building that look something stuck on an old building with a pointless wall dividing your new garage a ceiling to low for a lift and no usable overhead storage that cost more than a demo rebuild will.

If you are paying someone to do the work demo rebuild will cost less. If you put any value on your time same thing. If your labor cost nothing, you scavenge the materials and how it looks is irrelevant have fun.

I think you could easily take a 2 week vacation and come home to a completed rebuild zero trauma for the wife

Walta