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Roofing ice guard question

mrpowderkeg

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Joined
Dec 9, 2008
Messages
776
Location
Bismarck North Dakota
Planning ahead, next week I hope to get the roof on my shop, When I purchased my stuff, an ice guard was something that was not required for a shop (for a home it is) but I decided to go with it anyway. It installs along the eve, BUT after that, do I still need to use a starter strip, or is the ice guard the starter strip?
 
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moserjj

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Joined
Oct 17, 2010
Messages
155
Location
WI, USA
Yes you need a shingle starter strip. I won't use the rolls anymore, all they do is bubble up and cause problems at the edge. I would recommend the starter bundles, regular looking half shingle things. I also run them up along the edges of the roof as well just because it looks better
 

MoonRise

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Joined
Nov 5, 2010
Messages
4,028
Location
NJ
sheathing > drip edge > ice shield > starter strip > first row of shingles

For the rest of the roof, if you have 'severe' weather, you might run the ice shield all the way up. But at the least, you run tar paper or similar up all the sheathing.

This is for standard asphalt-composite shingles. Clay tile or slate or metal roofs are different. But I kind of don't htink you are putting clay tiles or slate on a shop roof in North Dakota. :D

http://www.gaf.com/Roofing/Residential/Products/Shingles/
 
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mrpowderkeg

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Joined
Dec 9, 2008
Messages
776
Location
Bismarck North Dakota
It's just like standard shingling then, except instead of tar paper for the first row the Ice guard takes the tar paper's place. Last home I shingled, ice guard was not code, so it was not used... This was in the late 90s though.
 

tolken4

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Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
330
I used the type the box store had, but if you can find it, use Grace.

From my shed post I am in the middle of this.
"For anyone doing this. Ice and water goes under the rake drip edge and over the eves drip edge. You will see some arguments here, but best I can tell this is the correct way. Other option is to to both over and under on the eve edge."

You will see my bottom row goes over the rake. That little part is technically wrong, but it is a shed and I already had it nailed down :)
8022352810_e47f77d635_c.jpg


My shed post for more pics:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=160999&highlight=12x10&page=4
 

6768rogues

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Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
4,524
Location
Western NY
Ice and water shield is a "last resort" barrier to keep out water that penetrates all the way through or around the shingles. Drip edge (flat areas) goes under the ice and water shield. Rake edge (gable ends) goes over ice and water shield. If installed over the I&W shield on a flat area, water getting to the ice and water shield will go under the drip edge.
Some codes require drip edge to go over the I&W shield, but in that case it needs to be cemented down to prevent water from going under.
Check out this video:
The picture by tolken4 above appears to be a gable end with I&W over rake edge. That is not a correct installation.
 
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eeyore1

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Apr 22, 2012
Messages
90
Not being smart, my contractor didn't know to take the backing off the ice guard until they had to come back and tear it all off and redo 27 sq.:dunno:
 

tolken4

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 5, 2007
Messages
330
FYI, regarding the backing. GRACE seems to stick better than the rest. Any kind of cool or cold temps and you will find stapling the other brands to get it to stay in place is required.

This is ok, it is self sealing.
 

fury9

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Joined
Mar 4, 2012
Messages
1,277
Location
Mchenry, IlLaHnoYs
around here a quick saying to remember for ice and water shield is 2 feet to the heat, means you want to bee two feet past the heated area
 

PittsS1

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Joined
Sep 12, 2011
Messages
108
Location
Minnesota
I ran the I&W and ran it over the subfascia, put the drip edge on, then ran a smaller strip of I&W over the drip edge. This makes the drip edge encased in the ice and water so that there's not an opportunity for water to get under it. It's also totally overkill.

A lot of people like to still run felt over the ice and water, though technically it's not required. However, if you have to tear off a roof, you'll find it much easier if the sealing strips of the shingles aren't stuck to the ice and water directly but rather to felt. Way easier to strip.

And I second the comments on the Grace product, but the only place I can find it around here charges double what the box stores do. In excess of $100/roll. But I thought it was worth it for putting in critical areas (valleys, sidewall flashings, etc.)
 
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