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Rough In Electrical for Double Oven

purplezr2

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In fully transparency, this is for my house not my shop....

So I have done a significant amount of wiring on my garage/shop with praise from the inspector on the neatness/origination/general work, but I'm struggling with rough in for my Double Oven and Range top of my kitchen.

Both will be 50amp circuits so 6/3 per the appliances my wife has picked. I plan to mount the junction boxes in the back the cabinet for easy of wiring. Is it as simple as fastening to the stud close to where the box will be within the cabinet and leaving a whip of wire to come through the sheetrock.

Plan is for 4x4 metal box with NM-Se Cable connector.

Last part to get my rough in completed prior to getting the inspector out.
 
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75gmck25

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You should download the installation instructions for each appliance first, since they often have diagrams and measurements for locating the power. If you get the junction box in the wrong location it might not have clearance for the appliance to slide into place. You will also find out if it needs a 6/3 feed (I think most now do), and whether it's hard-wired or uses a 4 wire plug.

Many appliances have gone over to using a plug-in power feed instead of hard wire. I think it's part of simplifying the process for installation. If the power cord reaches, just plug it in and go.
 

wyliesdiesels

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You should download the installation instructions for each appliance first, since they often have diagrams and measurements for locating the power. If you get the junction box in the wrong location it might not have clearance for the appliance to slide into place. You will also find out if it needs a 6/3 feed (I think most now do), and whether it's hard-wired or uses a 4 wire plug.

Many appliances have gone over to using a plug-in power feed instead of hard wire. I think it's part of simplifying the process for installation. If the power cord reaches, just plug it in and go.
agreed
 
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purplezr2

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I agree will all the above, I'm just wondering how to do rough in. Since I can have the drywall in for all the other electrical, obviously won't have the cabinet in yet, so I can't install the box in the cabinet and have it in place.

Bosch oven, instructions say the box can be above or below, comes with metal flexible conduit whip. Doesn't list length
 

Bert_

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They list a location for the junction box usually. Put your box there so it goes through the Sheetrock and cabinet. Use a cover with a knockout to connect to whip to the appliance
 

dcg9381

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Make sure you use a deep enough box for 6/3. Last over I did, we correctly accounted for the oven size, but the electrician put the box on the outside of the drywall and we had to recess it after drywall was up.

Appliances usually have enough "whip" length to accommodate various positions of the box, but they also may have a "preferred" location due to varying depth of the appliance assembly at certain heights.
 

sparky 1971

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I use a 2-1/8" deep 4X4 box with a bracket mounted flush with the face of the stud then install a 2 gang 1-1/4" raised mud ring that will bring the face out of the drywall and if it isn't flush with the cabinet, it's close enough. For hardwired ovens I drill a 7/8" hole (1/2" knockout size) in the center of a metal weatherproof blank plate and throw the gasket away.



 
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Chuckster in NJ

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Just a heads up!
IMG_2078.jpegNew NEC requires GFI protection on the receptacle for a PLUG CONNECTED stove in a kitchen.…….. 2 pole GFCI breaker in the panel will meet the new code.
 
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purplezr2

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Just a heads up!
IMG_2078.jpegNew NEC requires GFI protection on the receptacle for a PLUG CONNECTED stove in a kitchen.…….. 2 pole GFCI breaker in the panel will meet the new code.
Neither of mine will be plugged, but this is a good catch as I will need a new breaker for my dryer as it had just a conventional 30amp breaker in the old panel, and when I move it over that will need to change.
 

Skooterj

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When I built my house, I gave a copy of each appliance's manual to my electrician, my cabinet installer and my plumber.

If I had been doing any of that myself, I would have had those manuals readily available.
 

Kezorm

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purplezr2

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NEC 2023 requires GFCI for these appliances no matter what - hardwired or plug connected. There's no language limiting this requirement to just receptacle outlets.

From MN update on NEC 2023 - https://www.dli.mn.gov/sites/default/files/pdf/NECFAQ23.pdf

Screenshot 2024-08-16 at 6.14.19 PM.png
I was just reading the Electrical Inspection Checklist on that is on the Dept of Labor and Industry website, I noticed this section as well, and came to look to see if I read incorrectly the post a few above saying it only applied to corded devices.

I was going to give the inspector a call to double check, as I will need to get breakers coming asap(Menards is 2 hours away, and they don't carry the 40amp I need for the cooktop.
 
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purplezr2

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I use a 2-1/8" deep 4X4 box with a bracket mounted flush with the face of the stud then install a 2 gang 1-1/4" raised mud ring that will bring the face out of the drywall and if it isn't flush with the cabinet, it's close enough. For hardwired ovens I drill a 7/8" hole (1/2" knockout size) in the center of a metal weatherproof blank plate and throw the gasket away.



I used this method, seem to provide an easy clean result,
 
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