Rounded Out Allen Head Socket?

[YoshiMoshi3]

I have a 2005 Camry. The OEM sway bar links have no wrench flats towards the bottom of the stud of the ball joint. They are 100 % round.

I know most sway bar links, this area has a wrench flat, with an Allen head at the top of the stud. You can either put an Allen head in the top of the stud or a wrench at the base of the stud. But with Toyota, don't know why, the only option is to put in Allen head wrench at the top of the stud because there are no wrench flats at the base of the stud. You then wrench off the nut while trying to counter turn the stud.

However these always round out on me, and I have to cut them off. I don't like doing this because sometimes I accidentally ding up the knuckle or strut in the process with my angle grinder.

This got me thinking. Is there a Allen head wrench extractor socket that I could use? I know for like rounded external hex fasteners, there are special extractor sockets you can use that will bite into the nut or bolt allowing you to take it off. Something like this.

Is there a socket set I could get for rounded out internal hex (Allen) instead of external hex? Essentially an Allen key socket except with teeth on the sides to bite into the internal hex hole?

Meaning something like above, except with "teeth" on the sides that can go into a rounded out hole, bite into it, and allow for a good grip?
The specification for the nuts on the sway bar links is 55 ft lbs. So they are on there pretty good. I need something that would allow me to apply lots of torque on the internal hex of the stud, to counter turn the nut off.

Any ideas or I'm stuck just cutting these things off?

 

[nicks78camaro]

Regular or needle nose vise grips tightly clamped on the round part, heat up the nut with oxy acetylene torch, ratchet or impact the nut off.

 

[qqzj]

I have a 2005 Camry. The OEM sway bar links have no wrench flats towards the bottom of the stud of the ball joint. They are 100 % round.

I know most sway bar links, this area has a wrench flat, with an Allen head at the top of the stud. You can either put an Allen head in the top of the stud or a wrench at the base of the stud. But with Toyota, don't know why, the only option is to put in Allen head wrench at the top of the stud because there are no wrench flats at the base of the stud. You then wrench off the nut while trying to counter turn the stud.

However these always round out on me, and I have to cut them off. I don't like doing this because sometimes I accidentally ding up the knuckle or strut in the process with my angle grinder.

This got me thinking. Is there a Allen head wrench extractor socket that I could use? I know for like rounded external hex fasteners, there are special extractor sockets you can use that will bite into the nut or bolt allowing you to take it off. Something like this.

Is there a socket set I could get for rounded out internal hex (Allen) instead of external hex? Essentially an Allen key socket except with teeth on the sides to bite into the internal hex hole?

Meaning something like above, except with "teeth" on the sides that can go into a rounded out hole, bite into it, and allow for a good grip?
The specification for the nuts on the sway bar links is 55 ft lbs. So they are on there pretty good. I need something that would allow me to apply lots of torque on the internal hex of the stud, to counter turn the nut off.

Any ideas or I'm stuck just cutting these things off?

Use a big vise grip pliers on the back, and use impact gun to go back and forth to get it out. Better clean the threads first

This is a very common design. After market parts have flats.

 

[16sierra]

Weld on a nut or hex head bolt.

 

[Walkers]

Or use a nut splitter.

 

['52Chevy]

Something like this might work for you!

ICON Screw Extractor

 

[Fedwrench]

What? No one is recommending MAC RBRT?

8 Pc. Tech Solutions Bit Socket Set - Metric

Ingersoll Rand® Tech Solutions metric bit sockets have a patented design that not only prevents fasteners from stripping, but also can remove already stripped and damaged fasteners up to 85% rounded. And they’re suitable for use on new, undamaged fasteners as well. The sockets use a 2 piece...

www.irhandtools.com

Craftsman V-Series X-Tract Technology 3/8 in. drive Metric Hex Bit Socket Set 6 pc Mfr# CMMT17720V - Ace Hardware

Manufactured for professional-level performance, the V-Series™ 3/8 in. Drive Metric X-Tract Technology™ Hex Bit Socket Set features an innovative fastener gripping design. Built with X-Tract Technology™, these hex bit sockets are geometrically designed to extract fasteners that are up to 50%...

www.acehardware.com

I believe PROTO offers a similar set.

I've had good luck using a Torx bit on a rounded hex in the past. Good Luck

 

[The Cobbler]

I just went thru this with my Sante Fe while replacing struts. if I would have known the PITA it was going to be, I would have bought new links and cut the old ones off .

 

[134k]

I have the Facom OGV (Mac RBRT) socket hex bit set and it's been helpful in these kind of situations.

 

[Rusted Nut]

Screw extractor or hammer a cheap torx bit in the striped out hole.

 

[DHCrocks]

I've pounded in a torx in the past and it worked.

 

[MJK]

Grind some flats on the end. Or weld a nut on it, loosen retaining nut, and grind welds. Or Vice grips.

But really, if it is that old and beat up I think I'd be replacing it anyways. So just cut it off.

 

[plinker]

My method for dealing with sway links is clean whatever rust is on the threads (die grinder wire brush), some spray oil and/or heat (but not so much as to damage the boots), if it still insists on getting stuck 1/2 way, vise grips can work. This assumes reusing links.

Typically the holding hex is rusted (or rounded) to the point where nothing will hold the internal hex and it's a losing game, so it's less hassle to just cut them off in the first place and get new ones.

I have had times where a different size hex bit will be oversize enough to work or a torx bit can be made to fit. This has been the case with ball joints/tie rod ends where you are removing them and re-installing them for whatever reason (wheel bearing, knuckle, ete..), same deal though, clean the threads and use penetrating oil.

 

[david3921]

"You then wrench off the nut while trying to counter turn the stud." This may be part of the issue. You're not supposed to counter turn the stud. You're supposed to just stop the stud from turning.

 

[Gurp]

The internal extractors links above for HF are a good design. I've used Irwin ones before with good luck at work( industrial maint)
I like he mentioned also have pretty good luck with hammering a torx key in as well.

 

[WWheeler]

My first go-to is to shove a prybar in there to pry against it while impacting the nut off. Rarely when that doesn't work I'll get vise grips on it.

What? No one is recommending MAC RBRT?

8 Pc. Tech Solutions Bit Socket Set - Metric

Ingersoll Rand® Tech Solutions metric bit sockets have a patented design that not only prevents fasteners from stripping, but also can remove already stripped and damaged fasteners up to 85% rounded. And they’re suitable for use on new, undamaged fasteners as well. The sockets use a 2 piece...

www.irhandtools.com

Craftsman V-Series X-Tract Technology 3/8 in. drive Metric Hex Bit Socket Set 6 pc Mfr# CMMT17720V - Ace Hardware

Manufactured for professional-level performance, the V-Series™ 3/8 in. Drive Metric X-Tract Technology™ Hex Bit Socket Set features an innovative fastener gripping design. Built with X-Tract Technology™, these hex bit sockets are geometrically designed to extract fasteners that are up to 50%...

www.acehardware.com

I believe PROTO offers a similar set.

I've had good luck using a Torx bit on a rounded hex in the past. Good Luck

Craftsman (also a Stanley brand), also has their version "X-Tract Technology".

https://www.craftsman.com/product/c...e-x-tract-technology-hex-bit-socket-set-12-pc

I really do need to invest in a set of those RBRTs though.

 

[jobo1004]

Honda does the same thing. I've got these on order to try out the next time I need to mess with them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMGNSKPM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[shawhite]

Nut splitter like listed above is the easiest fix

 

[qqzj]

Uh

Honda does the same thing. I've got these on order to try out the next time I need to mess with them. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BMGNSKPM/?tag=atomicindus08-20

You don’t need a small and expensive vice grip here. A cheap big one works fine. Using malco on this is a waste of tools

 

[jayemm]

Needle nose vise grips clamped tight over the rubber boot (or remove boot). Also pop the socket part off exposing the ball on the back side and grab that with the vise grips. Zip nut off with impact. I used my impact driver. Yes, as mentioned, clean the threads and maybe lube them.

 

[toddmorr]

Rbrt, grabs like a mother on that rusted junk

 

[Buckgnarly]

RBRT or the above mentioned thin vice grips....or just replace.

 

[VolvoRyan]

You're counter holding the "stud" the wrong way for most grabby/extractor tools.

If an impact wrench won't get the nuts starting to unfasten, use implements of destruction. Err on the side of caution.

-Ryan

 

[Kenstone1]

A pipe wrench on the round part.
jmo,
.

 

[jobo1004]

Uh


You don’t need a small and expensive vice grip here. A cheap big one works fine. Using malco on this is a waste of tools

This is garage journal. I don't know about you, but I look for excuses to buy tools.

 

[qqzj]

This is garage journal. I don't know about you, but I look for excuses to buy tools.

You don't need an excuse to buy tools...

You just made an excuse to waste tools

 

[redwrench60]

The area between the sway bar and boot is thin, like 5/16”-3/8”. I have a pair of thin round jaw Snap-on vise grips that were literally made for this and work perfectly.

Firmly grab the round area with thin locking pliers so it won’t spin and zap it off with an impact or stout air ratchet. I’ve removed and reinstalled, or replaced zillions of links this way. You can’t **** around on flat rate.

 

[JeepYJ]

I just went thru this with my Sante Fe while replacing struts. if I would have known the PITA it was going to be, I would have bought new links and cut the old ones off .

This right here. I just put new ones on our Sienna last fall. Cut it off with a reciprocating saw and spend the $20 each for new ones. Not worth spending the time getting the old ones off.

 

[jobo1004]

You don't need an excuse to buy tools...

You just made an excuse to waste tools

Not sure how I can be wasting a tool. It's not a single use item. If it makes the job easier great. If not I'll find something else to use slim jaw locking pliers on.

 

[plinker]

You don't need an excuse to buy tools...

You just made an excuse to waste tools

IME "a big cheap one" is asking is asking for trouble. Cheap tools arent. No sense fighting the sway link/or other and the tool you're trying to use when something a bit higher quality works the first time and lasts longer, we're not talking about consumables like drill bits and such.