Rust prevention, hand tools

[ching0n]

Very much in the air (loose definition, not the scientific definition) in the form of fog and wind. I don't bother washing my car much, because the next morning the windshield is just as crusty as it was two days prior.

Almost everything not SS rusts around here, and even cheap SS does rust here. Just a matter of how quick you notice it. The "chromed" piece on my generator, less than 1 month in the midst of the mess we had here in January February.

Almost 20 years ago, my daughter's grade school science experiment tested various forms of rust protection, by getting squares of plane blade steel, treating each of the 8 squares differently, and putting a set of 8 squares in various location around the property. Something like: outside, inside the garage, in a toolbox in the garage, inside a bathroom, inside a bedroom, boxed, and I forget where else. The winning rust protection method was not something I see touted online, but was what the plane blade maker used.

Almost every sample rusted, except in the toolbox, and maybe in the bedroom.

Need to fish that study out some day.

yeah, it's why I defferentiated "air" from "wind". I wouldn't expect indoor airs w/little movement w/the outside to have much salt water whereas I'd expect much more in the outside air carried by the wind.

To OP: I would not use WD-40. If I recall, it's acidic which gives it its rust cutting power for loosening items. Once the oil is gone, you'll have some acidic compound left on your metal. Maybe 3in1 if you can find it. I don't know what would be so special about duck oil but I remember rebuilding a supercharger and the foul smell from the deteriorated lubricant made me think maybe we are still using whale oil in some applications .

Maybe get some floor wax, that ought to be cheap.

 

[ching0n]

I am another for simple ATF

I'll dump tools I don't care much about in used motor oil and let them air dry.

 

[ching0n]

I actually searched for Herp Heaters, but got big light bulb sized things, thought they were long and skinny too.

you could probably line your drawers w/these before putting your foam liners:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082K9TPPZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[MovingAlong]

There does appear to be a pattern in the responses - salt is bad, acid is bad, "something" oily is good, waxy is good too.

 

[pfaustus]

What I learned having all my tools stored in a occasionally damp basement for a number of years: Make sure there is an airspace between the box and the ground. Wooden boxes beat metal boxes hands down. Even if not completely airtight, a wooden toolbox is usually more airtight than a metal toolbox, especially ones with drawers. Wooden boxes inside bigger wooden toolboxes is even better. A moving blanket over the toolbox helps. Put moth balls in the boxes to absorb moisture. Oiled tools not in closed boxes (in an open carpenter's tote for example) will rust relatively quickly. Wax is only a little better, if any. A coating of vasoline will prevent rust for a long time. My Dad used to do that, and it was always sorta a PITA. Or he would coat things with straight grease, which was an even bigger PITA. But I was desperate due to oiled/waxed tools rusting, and vasoline worked. I wish I could ask him if he got it from his Dad or from the military.

 

[Samuel D]

It’s interesting to hear you mention Vaseline, pfaustus. That’s what the old dog in a local bicycle shop told me to use on the chromed parts of the bicycle that rusted. Put it on a cloth and wipe the chrome, he said.

(He also said chrome is a nightmare in this town and recommended bicycles with as little of it as possible, but the chrome on a bicycle is a long way from the quality and thickness of the chrome on good hand tools. I still didn’t expect it to rust indoors.)

Must be a mess on tools, though.

 

[ching0n]

What I learned having all my tools stored in a occasionally damp basement for a number of years: Make sure there is an airspace between the box and the ground. Wooden boxes beat metal boxes hands down. Even if not completely airtight, a wooden toolbox is usually more airtight than a metal toolbox, especially ones with drawers. Wooden boxes inside bigger wooden toolboxes is even better. A moving blanket over the toolbox helps. Put moth balls in the boxes to absorb moisture. Oiled tools not in closed boxes (in an open carpenter's tote for example) will rust relatively quickly. Wax is only a little better, if any. A coating of vasoline will prevent rust for a long time. My Dad used to do that, and it was always sorta a PITA. Or he would coat things with straight grease, which was an even bigger PITA. But I was desperate due to oiled/waxed tools rusting, and vasoline worked. I wish I could ask him if he got it from his Dad or from the military.

you can probably melt vaseline in an electric crock pot or one of those girly popurri crock pots. Just dip your tools.

Another option may be mold release (wax in spray basically) or welding anti-spatter spray. Hell even cooking oil/PAM is better than nothing (I'd go w/the least likely to dry up without being tacky):

 

[brglasp]

After trying everything already mentioned beside the Vaseline, I finally had the idea to try what I use on my firearms. G96 Gun Treatment. Most of my best tools are in a non-climate controlled shop in rural Kansas, hot and humid. Anything not chromed will rust pretty quick where I'm at. I buy the aerosol can of the original G96 and just do a quick spray on everything and just let it dry on its own (I even coat the surfaces of my welding tables works great). It does an amazing job cleaning tools as well and specifically mentions protecting against fingerprint damage. Best part about the stuff is it smells amazing! Also, since it meant for firearms, there is no mess after it dries, just pick up and use the tool the next time.

ABOUT THE G96 GUN TREATMENT ®:​

• Cleans Your Gun: Contains solvents which will completely remove all traces of rust, gun powder, leading, and corrosion in seconds.
• Lubricates Your Gun: Contains lubricants which will not freeze, oxidize, or evaporate (the result of missile research). Leaves no gummy residue. Keeps firing pin and all moving parts working as low as -50F below zero; insures perfect firing every time.
• Protects Your Gun: Leaves invisible magnetic film over all metal parts which protects your gun against rust under all weather conditions, even salt water spray. Protects frequently handled guns against “fingerprint” damage. This is the single and best gun care maintenance product ever designed to solve a gun owner’s cleaning, lubricating and corrosion protection problems. A unique formulation of active lubricants will not freeze, oxidize or evaporate. Designed with a pleasant odor, this gun treatment is assured perfect firing from 50 F below zero to 350 F.
• Safe for use on polymers.
• Directions for use - Spray evenly over area to be treated. Allow to set for 60 seconds. Wipe with clean cloth. Apply to all metal surfaces, inside chamber and inside barrel. Wipe after application. When treating gun for first time or for long term storage protection, spray three times, wiping dry after first and second application. Note: After treating gun allow solvent contained in the oil to evaporate for 10 minutes before placing gun in any airtight container such as a gun case, sealed carton, etc.

 

[flyingblind]

There does appear to be a pattern in the responses - salt is bad, acid is bad, "something" oily is good, waxy is good too.

Growing up we used to drop tools, knives and guns in boiling ATF. The hot oil would soak into the surface of the metal and displace all other dirt or oil.

 

[zendriver]

I dip mine in hot bees wax. Protects but when I go to use them, they are coated in bees wax.

Actually I wipe them down with WD40 after every use. They look just like unrusted tools, the next time I go use them. It’s about as hot/cold humid where I live as most anywhere else.

I did pull a pair of rusted needle nose from my tool bag recently that was stored in the basement

Used them for some dirty job then just tossed them back in the bag. I was mad at myself for being so lazy.

Imo it leaves enough of a coating of something that gets the job done. Understanding how rust works it doesn’t take much.

 

[RTM]

There does appear to be a pattern in the responses ...., "something" oily is good, waxy is good too.

Unless you are a woodworking, then Oily is bad too.