Rust Removal

[Snip's]

You will be pleasantly surprised!

I am still skeptical every time I drop more parts in. And I am just as surprised when I remove and rinse them.

The worst part is the impatience... I want to remove parts after only a few minutes because of how well this works.

I don’t understand how the bubbles can outline the part, but even more so, how can you read the text in the bubbles of a part that is 3” or more below the surface… found this gem behind my daughters rental garage.


Look closely. You can read CHAMP 2 in the bubbles…

One of the undiscovered properties of this DIY formula is that it possesses liquid spellcheck...

 

[Michael_in_DE]

using the citric acid recipe. most things need a couple minutes of tooth brushing after a few hours/day of soaking.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

 

[Michael_in_DE]

heres the finished clamp btw.

 

[Michael_in_DE]

Check out the corrosion on these matco sockets.

 

[Mike'smeatshop]

using the citric acid recipe. most things need a couple minutes of tooth brushing after a few hours/day of soaking.

Even with Vinegar I take a bucket of water from the dehumidifier and a brush and give it a good brushing and the scale just falls right off.

 

[xnology]

That all looks pretty amazing!

I’ve had good luck - the brushing is so minor it’s really not bad at all. This is still the simplest method that I have personally tried - so far!

 

[yhprum]

Has anyone found how this affects paint? Is it comparable to evaporust in that regards. I’m interested in dropping an original paint motorcycle gas tank in the mix to derust it.

 

[xnology]

Has anyone found how this affects paint? Is it comparable to evaporust in that regards. I’m interested in dropping an original paint motorcycle gas tank in the mix to derust it.

I haven't painted anything yet that I have de-rusted. I have waxed everything so far. I imagine it would be very similar if not the same as evaporust with painting.

I know that Michael_in_DE has a clamp painted above and cgrutt has a vise painted above. They will have more insight if anything out of the ordinary needs to be done to these parts.

 

[tengraver]

Nice results... How did you prevent flash rust post process?
I've used a warm oven to drive off the moisture but still get flash rust...

Spray it down with alcohol? That's what we do with parts that come out of the water (wedm machine) at work. It's cheap, clean, and easy

 

[Marsim]

I tried this for the hell of it with lemi shine (just because I had it on hand), baking soda, and bottled water. These were covered in rust. Overnight soak worked very well.

 

[xnology]

I tried this for the hell of it with lemi shine (just because I had it on hand), baking soda, and bottled water. These were covered in rust. Overnight soak worked very well.

I am unfamiliar with Lemi Shine. Looking it up, it is a citric acid cleaner - correct?

I am amazed out how clear your solution is with the bits in it. Your results look equally amazing!

 

[Marsim]

Lemi shine is a citric acid dish washer additive. It's pretty cheap. I used it just because I have it on hand.

 

[csp]

I haven't painted anything yet that I have de-rusted. I have waxed everything so far. I imagine it would be very similar if not the same as evaporust with painting.

I think the question was if the citric acid removes paint. Sounded like the desire was to de-rust the gas tank and leave the original paint intact.

 

[PlanB]

I put evaporust into a motorcycle tank that had a rust and a flawed coating. The evaporust worked on the rust and really softened the coating. Tanks liners are resistant to gas/hydrocarbons but not aqueous evaporust....

I am not sure if regular paint work react the same but I'd test it out somewhere it won't be noticed.

 

[Pexto]

I think the question was if the citric acid removes paint. Sounded like the desire was to de-rust the gas tank and leave the original paint intact.

I've been trying out the 100g citric acid/40g sodium carbonate mix. One of the test pieces was a rusty old splitting wedge with lots of rust, and some black paint. I left it in there for about three days, after which the rust was all gone and the remaining paint was very soft and came off with a wire brush.

So far I like this mix. But it definitely affects paint, so be careful.

 

[Pagan Wizard]

I recently watched a video from YouTuber JeffsShop. To strip paint, and de-rust parts he first soaks parts in undiluted Simple Green, which is a degreaser, and given at least 24 hours, it will remove paint, followed by a cold water rinse, and then another 24 hour soak of water with about a shot glass full citric acid per (US) gallon of water. When the part comes out, another rinse with cold water and wiped completely dry. It is important to use cold water to rinse, and to NOT use hot air from a hair drier or heat gun, as warm or hot air will accelerate the chances of flash rusting. When the parts are completely dry, apply rust converting rattle can primer. Here is his video for reference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sILPLWQwTY4&list=PLfmzf8SKnxXmnEwOASi_oqncae5ra8pXH&index=3

 

[xnology]

I ran my first parts with paint still on them. The paint is definitely effected. It came off with minimal scrubbing with a tooth brush. Not all of it came off, but whatever was close to the rust being removed sure did. Probably was compromised, but who knows?

If you're looking to preserve the paint that's on the tank, I don't know if this is going to get you the results you're hoping for, but then again, I am not familiar with any efficient process that will... it's kind of a "lesser of two evils" problem.

 

[four.cycle]

WD-40 and a brass brush will remove rust and leave the paint intact.

Straight Simple Green will remove multiple layers of 40-year-old baked-on paint.

 

[Marsim]

I've been playing with this mix for over a week now (2/3 cup lemi shine, 1/3 cup baking soda, 4 cups tap water). It works very well. Bubbling increases in sunlight. Bubbles dislodge loose grease/grime. Chemical reaction does not. After using same mixture 3 times, white residue clumped on metal. Wiped off with a rag. Has not removed/loosened paint, but I only soaked for 24 hours. Soaked this yesterday, surface rust only. Wiped clean with a rag upon removal. Does not discolor metal like evaporust.

 

[xnology]

Soaking an old cast iron top from a cheap table saw I picked up for the motor. The plan is to use the top for a flat blade sharpening surface once it’s cleaned and flattened. Wiped the dust and dirt off and in the drink she goes. I will wipe it off tonight and see how it turns out.

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There’s something cool about the Jupiter-esque swirling…

 

[xnology]

The solution looks quite different after 8 hours at work. I wiped the top off with paper towels and then a light wipe down with wd40 to keep the rust at bay. Hit it with some #0000 steel wool and wd40 and wiped off. Looks better than I was expecting, but I will still sand it down and wax it.

 

[yhprum]

I mixed some up half strength because I didn’t have enough citric acid for the volume I needed. My piece had flash rust on it from vinegar derusting. Two hours and it was gone!

 

[yhprum]

Another video using this method.

 

[grannyknot]

Wally world had a sale on ultrasonic cleaners recently so p/u a 30L unit, added a citric acid and table salt solution, cranked up the heat and within an hour these lathe change gears almost completely rust free. What little was left came of easily on the wire wheel.
I've always used the citric acid solution at room temp. and generally takes 24hrs to remove the rust but the addition of heat and ultrasonic vibration really surprised me.

 

[xnology]

This stuff still blows my mind. Just another old Millers Falls block plane body.

Before vs 9 hours + a brass wire brush scrub under running water.

 

[yhprum]

Ha, I just did a job last night using this method. Rusty BBQ grill shelf overnight in the bath, I love this stuff. Top photo is paint stripper and glad wrap. The rust is showing as black. Bottom is after the rust removal. Just a little paint to remove in the bottom corner.

 

[M.Brane]

Citric, baking soda, Dawn. 12 hr soak. Before & after:

 

[xnology]

That is pretty phenomenal!

 

[ching0n]

I did a test run of 5 very rusty C-Clamps, left over night. Used a med wire brush on the grinder, they came out looking great. Didn't use the soap. I left the clamps sit several days, did not oil them and no flash rust either. I sprayed painted half of one clamp, I want to see how the paint sticks when I wire brush it again. Thanks for posting this simple solution.

did you rinse the solution before air drying or air dried w/solution on? I'm curious why no flash rust. I cooked up a batch but made it PH neutral by adding more baking soda. I have some dies in there so no b4 pics. I'll do a before/after of something else.

 

[ray h]

did you rinse the solution before air drying or air dried w/solution on? I'm curious why no flash rust. I cooked up a batch but made it PH neutral by adding more baking soda. I have some dies in there so no b4 pics. I'll do a before/after of something else.

Shortly after I did the clamps, I became the better half's sole caregiver. I've only been in the shop a couple times since just to check on things. I'm sure I did rinse but really can't remember for sure. Sorry

 

[ching0n]

Shortly after I did the clamps, I became the better half's sole caregiver. I've only been in the shop a couple times since just to check on things. I'm sure I did rinse but really can't remember for sure. Sorry

I'm sorry to hear, best wishes

 

[ching0n]

did you rinse the solution before air drying or air dried w/solution on? I'm curious why no flash rust. I cooked up a batch but made it PH neutral by adding more baking soda. I have some dies in there so no b4 pics. I'll do a before/after of something else.

These came out of a very wet, very muddy yard so were fairly rusty on the surface. The one on the left had more pitting. I noticed the one on the right was significantly harder and turned darker in the solution so figured it may be a way to ID certain types of alloys. They also came out smelling like gun powder somewhat.

This was after 8 hrs of soaking or so.



Google had this to say about evaporust. Since the rust was quite a bit less than the other part and cast iron tends to not rust as much due to high carbon content, this tracks. I also like the finish so may be a way to apply a patina that could be rust resistant:

I got a black film on some parts after using Evapo-Rust®. What is it and how do I remove it?

The black film is carbon from the steel. In certain instances, steel will darken in color after rust has been removed from metal surface. The darkening does not have an adverse affect on the metal. It merely represents the movement of carbon from the interior to the exterior of the metal . CRC EVAPO-RUST is a highly effective rust remover, it stimulates the carbon migration process. Other rust removal treatments will also result in carbon migration and a darkening of the metal.

High carbon parts should not be soaked longer than necessary. Once the rust has been removed, the parts should be rinsed and dried to keep the carbon from settling into the pores of the metal.

With EVAPO-RUST, sometimes a wiping with a dry cloth or a more rigorous buffing can remove the dark coloring.

 

[ching0n]

These parts had flash rust to "above flash rust". I wiped them down before putting them in the solution, ensuring nothing lose was just getting washed off. I can't remember if the wrench had that pattern (parts are dry) or if it's getting dark from the solution. This is after 4 hr soak. The longer pieces were only partially submerged.

I'm attaching my inexpensive "parts list" in case you feel like trying:

Amazon Deals on New Retail Items - Post them!

watch the amp rating

www.garagejournal.com

My chuck it bucket setup, PH test strip in the background. My solution is PH neutral to slightly basic so more than likely will not attack the steel like the youtuber's in case you forget (youtuber's was mildly acidic so probably would take forever to do any damage too):

 

[yhprum]

I just found this video today, making a gel with the citric solution and cornstarch.
You could store this in a jar, when it’s hot, put the sealed lid on. When it’s cooled it will be in a slight vacuum like a canning jar. It will stay fresh until it’s opened.
I had tried making a cornstarch gel using vinegar, but I wasn’t quite happy with it. It smelled bad and the steel sort of flash rusted in dryer areas where the gel was thin.
I will have to give this one a try.

 

[ching0n]

I just found this video today, making a gel with the citric solution and cornstarch.
You could store this in a jar, when it’s hot, put the sealed lid on. When it’s cooled it will be in a slight vacuum like a canning jar. It will stay fresh until it’s opened.
I had tried making a cornstarch gel using vinegar, but I wasn’t quite happy with it. It smelled bad and the steel sort of flash rusted in dryer areas where the gel was thin.
I will have to give this one a try.

This is great! Thanks. I've got a drill press that flash rusted and this will minimize the mess & having to deal w/liquid deruster. I wonder if one could use gelatin as the coagulant instead?

 

[yhprum]

^ Hmm not sure if gelatin might be a little too solid? Maybe not. If you decide to try it let us know.

 

[pelletman]

Purple power works great for grease and paint and is MUCH cheaper than simple green

 

[Beerhippie]

I still don't get the obsession with so-called flash-rust. It's a very minor surface layer of oxides that takes a minute to remove with some 4-0 steel wool. If it really bothers you, rinse your parts in boiling-hot water, as it dries almost instantly, preventing your dreaded "flash rust". If you have it, use boiling distilled water. The condensate drain of your AC unit is a great source of usable (if not potable) distilled water.

 

[ching0n]

As an update, this stuff also attacks black oxide coatings. Makes sense but didn't think it through when I dropped an impact socket in there. Appears to take quite a bit longer though if your red oxide is thin it might be ok.

Purple power works great for grease and paint and is MUCH cheaper than simple green

i use purple power but I read that simple green now has a product that does both grease and rust (simple green professional I think).

I'm fairly suspicious that purple power is just caustic soda/drain cleaner+dye at some dilution. Does a number on your skin & aluminum though. The stuff ITT for rust only.

I still don't get the obsession with so-called flash-rust. It's a very minor surface layer of oxides that takes a minute to remove with some 4-0 steel wool. If it really bothers you, rinse your parts in boiling-hot water, as it dries almost instantly, preventing your dreaded "flash rust". If you have it, use boiling distilled water. The condensate drain of your AC unit is a great source of usable (if not potable) distilled water.

flash rust at some point turns into deeper rust. In my case, I don't think steel wool would knock the harder stuff. It's a drag if you gotta tig and/or paint. I often run out of wd40 and/or have to clean the wd40 w/a solvent after.