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Rustoleum spray cans - absolute garbage

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evintho

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Santa Rosa, CA.
Not a fan of Rustoleum simply because it takes a month to dry! I've found it to be about as durable as Krylon which dries in an hour. Cheaper too!
I'm a big believer in power paint shakers also.
My version..... an aluminum bar that bolts to the sawzall and a pair of hoseclamps. Works like a charm!

P7050003_zps2f4e71ef.jpg
 

gmcgeo

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Mar 11, 2019
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I have never had issues with it, lots of prep. tons of cleaning, and small even coats.
 

Crowbarman55

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How hard is it to shake a spray paint can? By the time I got out the saw, hooked up the saw, and put it away, I could have been done shaking and half way done painting whatever I was working on.
Todd
 

NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
I've had cans spray perfectly and other cans spray different as you use them.

In addition to the shaking prior and during use, putting the can near some heat (use common sense here) , I roll the bar inside the can.

Hold the end of the can act like you're stirring something. Slowly tip the can up or down so it moves the length of the can as it's rolling around inside. You can tell if you hit a chunk or glob of unmixed paint listening to the ball roll.
 

Old Man Roger

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Whether the ball was loose or not, it obviously has thick, unmixed paint on the bottom of the can.

I use an attachment for my Sawzall to shake spray cans.


More mixing, and make sure the contents are warm.

Two minutes minimum, and three or four minutes under a hot water tap. It thins out the paint.

I set the cans upside down in the sun at least an hour before shaking.

When painting with spray cans it helps to pause occasionally and give the can a few shakes.
These guys got it, and the heat creates a little more pressure in the can. The extra pressure makes the can spray better.
How hard is it to shake a spray paint can? By the time I got out the saw, hooked up the saw, and put it away, I could have been done shaking and half way done painting whatever I was working on.
Todd
Imagine having ten cans. I have a battery operated sawzall set up for shaking, takes seconds to put a can in.
 

KenC

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Nope. Hazmat is just a PITA to ship so most vendors don't deal with it to mon commercial accounts
I've ordered a lot of paint in the last few months. Primer, top coat etc for my old pickup project. No issues at all. Companies that sell shipping supplies even sell a paint shipping kit. Box(es), precut foam, lid clips, baggies etc. I think the issue with AK and HI is that most small shipments must come by air and that changes the hazmat rules. Especially those in pressurized containers.
 

KenC

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These guys got it, and the heat creates a little more pressure in the can. The extra pressure makes the can spray better.

Imagine having ten cans. I have a battery operated sawzall set up for shaking, takes seconds to put a can in.
IMO, the biggest variable with spray cans is the age of the product. The longer it has set on the shelf, the longer it takes to really stir up the pigments. I have some Rustoleum that is nearing 40 years old. Bought a huge lot at a hardware store closing auction way back when. Still works, but it takes a really l o n g time to make it spray reliably. The sawzall trick really cuts down on the time needed. Just a worn out blade with the teeth ground off and a couple of hose clamps.
 

Sumboodie

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These guys got it, and the heat creates a little more pressure in the can. The extra pressure makes the can spray better.

Imagine having ten cans. I have a battery operated sawzall set up for shaking, takes seconds to put a can in.
If I'm needing 10 cans to paint something, I'm using a spray gun!
 

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Rustoleum works for me most of the time but I got spoiled after using Valspar. It can run to $14 a can and I won't do that.

RE: "Not an option..." I think he means having a compressor, hoses, etc.
 

Old Man Roger

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Would save $$. $8 a can for rattle spray or a $40 sprayer and $20 for a quart of decent paint.

Rustoleum works for me most of the time but I got spoiled after using Valspar. It can run to $14 a can and I won't do that.

RE: "Not an option..." I think he means having a compressor, hoses, etc.
I have all that, but not everyone does. And in some cases, like in an HOA or rental situation, people can get away with spray cans. Or maybe something needs to be painted where there isn't any power available. I could go on and on..lol
 

Blk88GT

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Manitoba
I've had nothing but issues with Tremclad. It drives me absolutely insane. I'll try the shaking for 2-3 minutes and heating the can.... no issues with Krylon but it doesn't seem to cover as well.
 

Sumboodie

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AK
Rustoleum works for me most of the time but I got spoiled after using Valspar. It can run to $14 a can and I won't do that.

RE: "Not an option..." I think he means having a compressor, hoses, etc.
I'd imagine nearly everyone on this forum has an air hose and compressor. I mean hell most of you all have shops with damn near acreage inside, lifts, 6 figures worth of tools, etc.
 

Crowbarman55

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I'd imagine nearly everyone on this forum has an air hose and compressor. I mean hell most of you all have shops with damn near acreage inside, lifts, 6 figures worth of tools, etc.
I have a small compressor, no lift, maybe 4 figures of tools. So I am not most. But I know what you are saying. I can paint with Rust-Oleum and it looks like OEM automotive paint work. If I spend more time I can do show quality paint with Rust-Oleum on car parts. (Not outside body work)
Todd
 

Sumboodie

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I have a small compressor, no lift, maybe 4 figures of tools. So I am not most. But I know what you are saying. I can paint with Rust-Oleum and it looks like OEM automotive paint work. If I spend more time I can do show quality paint with Rust-Oleum on car parts. (Not outside body work)
Todd
I've never had rattle can hold up anywhere near as well as a proper 2k paint. In some cases it's good enough, that's true.
 
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roc_on_the_rocks

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South central Indiana
These discussions about shaking the spray cans remind me the memorable video Eastwood had advertising their paint can shaker. It's was great, but taken down for not being PC for current times.
 
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Sumboodie

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You got it backwards. Sprayers are $8 and a quart of decent paint is $200.
Where are you buying a paint sprayer for $8? Decent paint runs $50-60 a gallon. We aren't talking about some designer brand paint for a Bentley.
 

thr3squared

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Oct 4, 2018
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CA
I've never had a problem with Rustoleum, in fact quite to the contrary. Like many here I shake the heck out of the can for quite a while...usually to the point where if someone else is around they'll ask "are you done yet?!"

Also found that whenever I had issues the the quality of the paint job it was often a result of bad conditions - cold paint/weather and humidity. Or me just rushing.
 
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stickshift

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OP here. I made a spray paint can mixer like this:

I don't have the can I described in the original post, so I can't say for sure that inadequate mixing was the issue (even though I shook the can longer than instructions prescribe), but I shook up a can using this mixer and it sprayed beautifully. Highly recommend mixing via power tool. No more jacking off rattle cans for me.
 

Dan in Pasadena

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What amazes me is how nice the spray can paint jobs turn out on the Eastern Europe machine builds on YouTube...seriously.
I think my spray can paint jobs come out pretty nice for what they are. I don't expect them to last like a catalyzed automotive paint. To be honest I don't even shake the cans nearly as long as I'm supposed to. I don't heat the cans in water - I tried it and didn't notice any difference. I have found that using Rustoleum primer first virtually assures a better job. For a long time I never used it.410E0C61-9FFC-4058-A303-174FFA4A58CF_1_201_a.jpeg

This wood box is Rustoleum. Was my dad's 40-50 years ago painted a dark brown that was flaking. I sanded the **** out of it, then Rusto primer and 3 red coats. The first I fogged on, let it set a few minutes then put a much heavier coat. The next afternoon I sanded it with fine grit paper and applied a heavy coat again. I could have made it even smoother but I think it came out nice and is true to my dad's "workmanship" as he used to used it to carry masonry tools in the back of his '59 Chevy Fleetside - that's why I'm using it in the bed of my '55.
 
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Lumpy102

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Ontario Canada
I read somewhere that blasting some compressed air back down the tube of a spray can can dislodge those chunks that seem to get caught in the tube. Have tried it a couple of times with varying results. I don't seem to have very good luck with rust-oleum either. but I do remove my tips after spraying, soak them in acetone for a few minutes and give them a blast with compressed air to ensure they are clean.
 

Crowbarman55

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I read somewhere that blasting some compressed air back down the tube of a spray can can dislodge those chunks that seem to get caught in the tube. Have tried it a couple of times with varying results. I don't seem to have very good luck with rust-oleum either. but I do remove my tips after spraying, soak them in acetone for a few minutes and give them a blast with compressed air to ensure they are clean.
When I blast air in a spray paint nozzle it usually flys across the garage never to be seen again lol.
Todd
 

73project

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Jan 16, 2014
Messages
82
One more vote for warming up the cans. I've had the spurting problem, heated the cans up in some hot water, and then they sprayed as expected. This has worked for me.
 

Evil Monkey

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May 22, 2022
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Hi guys, first time posting. I have had similar problems with the new Rustoleum can. At first, it seemed that I couldn't get the propellant to mix with the paint in a can that I had used previously. I do a lot of mods and redesigning so almost all of my paint jobs are small, using a small portion of the can. I decided to try storing the cans upside down, then agitating for 5+ minutes. The can would spray a light mist for about 1.5 seconds, then clear mist for 0.5-1 second, then stop. After several attempts at this, I decided to label Rustoleum with every "bad word" in the Bad Word Lexicon, and then I tried spraying upside down. What do you know, it worked! While not an ideal solution, this method enables me to finish a can and a project. Upside down with no sputter, clogs, or other spray issues. I am not saying that we should adopt this method as a permanent fix, but I don't have to buy another can ever time I start another small job. Absolutely, Rustoleum needs to fix this problem, and I don't mean by issuing refund checks. I have a small presence on Twitter, and I intend to tweet my followers and Rustoleum directly about this issue. Companies tend to respond when they know a crowd is listening! Has anyone else utilized social media in this cause?
 

Evil Monkey

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Reading other posts, especially the "hot water" ones, is leading me to think that the propellant is the culprit. Rustoleum needs to weigh in on this.
 
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stickshift

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northeastern US
Hi guys, first time posting. I have had similar problems with the new Rustoleum can. At first, it seemed that I couldn't get the propellant to mix with the paint in a can that I had used previously. I do a lot of mods and redesigning so almost all of my paint jobs are small, using a small portion of the can. I decided to try storing the cans upside down, then agitating for 5+ minutes. The can would spray a light mist for about 1.5 seconds, then clear mist for 0.5-1 second, then stop. After several attempts at this, I decided to label Rustoleum with every "bad word" in the Bad Word Lexicon, and then I tried spraying upside down. What do you know, it worked! While not an ideal solution, this method enables me to finish a can and a project. Upside down with no sputter, clogs, or other spray issues. I am not saying that we should adopt this method as a permanent fix, but I don't have to buy another can ever time I start another small job. Absolutely, Rustoleum needs to fix this problem, and I don't mean by issuing refund checks. I have a small presence on Twitter, and I intend to tweet my followers and Rustoleum directly about this issue. Companies tend to respond when they know a crowd is listening! Has anyone else utilized social media in this cause?
Try mechanical mixing. I did this after starting this thread and it worked great. The amount of mixing required by the directions may be woefully inadequate. Try mixing via drill (I posted video link for a cheap DIY example) or recip saw.
 

finn

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The UP, God's country
Reading other posts, especially the "hot water" ones, is leading me to think that the propellant is the culprit. Rustoleum needs to weigh in on this.
Heating the can does two things. First, it reduces the viscosity of the paint, making it easier for the propellant to force the product out the nozzle office .

Secondly, it increases the pressure inside the can, which again increases the velocity of the paint going through the orifice, reducing spatter.
 

American Locomotive

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Rhode Island
Heating the can does two things. First, it reduces the viscosity of the paint, making it easier for the propellant to force the product out the nozzle office .

Secondly, it increases the pressure inside the can, which again increases the velocity of the paint going through the orifice, reducing spatter.
Ironically, the better European spray paints use low pressure propellants.
 

Mr onetwo

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Plus one on the MixKwik sawzall attachment.I have been using one since they showed up on Ebay years ago....makes a huge difference.
 
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