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Ryan's Multi-purpose shop

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gogolf0401

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West central MN
after the wall girts are up, steel is next. I fount it easiest to abandon the scaffold and just use a ladder. I bought sheets to fit the walls top to bottom. Make sure you do your homework here before ordering the steel. You do not want to cut every peice to fit!

I decided to use "shelf" strips for at the bottom of the steel panels and j-channel at the top and around the windows and doors.
I don't know what this "shelf" steel is called.. but it's a different option than j-channel which looks better for at the base.

I used my air stapler to fasten the j-channel and shelf strips.







You will have to cut the steel if the floor is uneven in places and around doors and windows. For this I decided to use my circular saw with a cheap plywood blade ($1). You can use the expensive blades for thin steel, but I found that these throw larger slag than the smaller tooth plywood blades and cut marginally better. You will definitely want to buy a full face guard instead of just safety glasses. If you get this slag in your eyes you will have a hard time with infection.
Remember to put the cut sides in the J-channel instead of on the shelf strips to hide the ugly.
 
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metalart

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That looks amazing... couple questions about the plumbing, did you tie in any vents for the floor drain/shower/toilet? Are those tee's for your branches instead of combos or wye and 45?
 
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gogolf0401

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That looks amazing... couple questions about the plumbing, did you tie in any vents for the floor drain/shower/toilet? Are those tee's for your branches instead of combos or wye and 45?
The vents will come off of the verticals and through the outside wall. Should work fine. Not sure what you are asking for your second question.

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gogolf0401

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West central MN
Awesome garage man. I doubt you have but have you used the heater yet? If so, how good does it do?
Oh yes. I was going to mention the performance. At -20F the heater runs about every 10 min and runs for about 2-3 minutes. That is when I have the temp set to 45. I was impressed that with 11 windows, a big 12x12 overhead and 3500 sqft that it holds heat as well as it does. I'm loving the spray foam walls!

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Bib Overalls

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Jonesboro, Arkansas
That looks amazing... couple questions about the plumbing, did you tie in any vents for the floor drain/shower/toilet? Are those tee's for your branches instead of combos or wye and 45?

The vents will come off of the verticals and through the outside wall. Should work fine. Not sure what you are asking for your second question.

That is what the $1,500 is for. Tees are never used in soil lines. They become traps for solids. Your underfloor soil lines would not pass inspection in any jurisdiction. Hopefully you will not have problems. Soil lines are plumbed with fitting that bring converging lines together with a sweep pointing down stream. Tees can be used in the above floor vent lines.

With that said, I am really impressed with your overall concept and your attention to detail. Very nicely executed.

I used surface mounted electrical conduit in my shop. Seems like I am moving boxes around all the time.
 
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gogolf0401

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West central MN
So I held off on applying a concrete sealer since I wasn't sure what I wanted to do. I plan on welding and grinding, so an epoxy is an expensive and bad idea since it will not hold up to the abuse my floor will see. I still wanted to protect the floor from stains somehow. After much investigation I decided to give TrueLock TLPPC urethane from GarageFlooringLLC a try. I'm not even sure they sell it any longer, but so far I am satisfied.

The coating does a couple things, it soaks into the concrete like a sealer, but still remains on the surface enough to give it a sheen and repellent nature. The color of the concrete is retained since the coating is clear, and I was fine with that. You'll see that I didn't do the whole floor, the game room and bath will have a color coating of some kind. I'm still deliberating on that..



The floor is not slippery at all and no grit was added like with an epoxy.

The application was very simple.. 1. clean floor, 2. get backpack garden sprayer, 3. fill sprayer and spray floor, 4. let it dry, done

Make sure to measure your consumption of material. I chose to do section by section as created by my relief saw cuts that make about a 10' square. I found that I was using more material than what it was rated for, so I had to ease up on how heavy I was applying it.

I gave it 2 coats. If I pour water on the concrete it does appear to darken a bit, but I have spilled oil on the floor and it does not soak in and stain the floor, so I am happy with it. In hindsite I would probably give it 3 coats.

 
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gogolf0401

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interior walls

Design basically matches my original concept.



Put a big doorway in both sides of the wood shop. The one going into the game room will help me move furniture like a pool table in there with ease. I think I might do a hidden door of some kind.









I will use the 2nd floor as storage. I need to build some stairs next.

 
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Adittmer

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Feb 23, 2016
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Looks great! I wish I was as far on mine lol.


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racestatus

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Danbury, CT
that's beautiful!!! I need to get out of CT so I can actually build a place like that! I think that would be 8k a year in taxes lol
 
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gogolf0401

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Had some time to build my stairs



Used 5/4 decking instead of 2x6's for the stair treads as they are cheaper for some reason.



Just used 2x8's for the landing with a plywood floor

 

aka Larry

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No offense, but are you a midget...errr...vertically challenged person? Assuming the railing is 36", it appears that at the top of stairs there is only like 60" of clearance from the ceiling.
 

Dodge

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Illinois
Your building is looking great. One question though. I hope it wasn't mentioned and I missed it, but how are you fastening the interior walls to the floor? With the tubing in the concrete, I doubt you used tap-cons or something similar. My son has the in floor heat in his 40X80 and is very happy with it, here in Illinois.
 

bdbecker

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Iowa
No offense, but are you a midget...errr...vertically challenged person? Assuming the railing is 36", it appears that at the top of stairs there is only like 60" of clearance from the ceiling.

That's what kids are for! :bounce:

I think he mentioned earlier that this area was for storage, so headroom is probably not that important.
 
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gogolf0401

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West central MN
No offense, but are you a midget...errr...vertically challenged person? Assuming the railing is 36", it appears that at the top of stairs there is only like 60" of clearance from the ceiling.
Haha, no I'm 6'1". There is about 7' of clearance at the top of the stairs. The 2nd floor is mainly for storage.

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gogolf0401

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West central MN
Your building is looking great. One question though. I hope it wasn't mentioned and I missed it, but how are you fastening the interior walls to the floor? With the tubing in the concrete, I doubt you used tap-cons or something similar. My son has the in floor heat in his 40X80 and is very happy with it, here in Illinois.
I may have forgotten to mention.. I used a 22cal hammer nail driver and adhesive. The nails only go in a little over an inch if I remember so that is far above the tubing.

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