Please feel free to lean back in the recliner, kick your shoes of (but don’t scratch the coffee table) and enjoy the next few moments of your day as you read my update. I really appreciate your time reading the adventures of the Salt Life Hideout when you could be doing many other things. Do you realize that this particular minute has never ever been in existence before and never will again and you continue to read with eager anticipation? Well then, let’s begin the
Water Heater Cabinet Build
This project goes back to the Master Plan to clean up the clutter at the front of the garage. When I built the paint cabinet, this is what I had for the concept at the front:
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The center Paint Cabinet and the A/C Closet on the right have been built
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Here is the starting point of the project
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Mops, brooms, other cleaning type stuff, windshield squeegee, Christmas tree stand… It’s all there and I feel it looks cluttered. Objective of this project will be to cover this area with a cabinet, (I tried the idea of eliminating all the stuff, but we’d be done by now. Besides we need them.)
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Mock-Up Time!
Since the corner of the wall has wood studs with 1/2" drywall on both sides, I need to provide solid wood framing for the hinges to fasten to. I have a 2x4 but used a 2x2 for this mock-up. The OSB will be the 5/8” plywood panel. The 1x6 will be the shelving unit on the inside of the door, just like the A/C Cabinet
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Here is the test door in the open position. Note that the hinge is planned to be fastened to the 5/8” plywood.
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(Ignore the 1x2 below. I realized it wouldn’t work but didn’t take it off yet.)
Here is the test door in the closed position.
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And this was where Mrs. Wingnut came to inspect. (You know that every project needs a Supervisor…) She couldn’t understand why I would mount the panel to be aligned with the wall when the rest of the cabinets are about 4” out in front of the wall. Here is what I had planned…
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And she was correct! The closed cabinet would look something like this.
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She couldn't understand why anyone in their right mind would build it that way when it should align with the other cabinets. All I could do was agree with her. She was right. Again! I was eager to listen since her idea would look much nicer and actually be easier to build. See…
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Besides, finishing off the front of the garage with the paint stripe and other details will look much better as well.
So, Mock-Up #2 was installed! It was convenient that a 2x4, one hinge and a 5/8” plywood was the exact thickness needed to align with the other cabinets.
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The hinge has to be held off the edge of the wall so the screws go into the wall studs instead of the drywall on the side. You will note that the hinge is not flush with the 2x4, but is actually offset.
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Another benefit of this solution is that when the cabinet is fully opened, the cabinet does not block the opening like Mock-Up #1 on top does.
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So, with the Mock-Up #2 approved by the Supervisor, time to cut the 2x4, mount the hinges and hang it. I used plywood spacers and then clamped the hinge, set the hole, drilled and mounted the hinges. I am using four 4” hinges to carry the weight of a loaded cabinet
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So, with all four hinges mounted, I set it in place with a couple drywall screws.
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This brought to light another problem. With the hinges mounted securely to the drywall, the knuckles of the hinges were binding against the drywall, making the door hard to open. Also, the door panel would not close flush to the adjacent panel.
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But, I came up with the idea that adding a spacer at the edge of the hinge would free up the hinge action and also align the closed door panel. When finally installed, this ended up being a piece of a jumbo bamboo skewer (+/- 1/8” Diameter)
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Let's Get Building!
When the 2x4 was mounted as the hinge post, it was now time to measure and cut the plywood. I cut the door panel to the same 56” height as the other three doors are. The top piece will be a separate door.
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I drilled holes in the plywood where it would be mounted to the hinge post. But trying to hold the panel in place with one hand and align and screw with the other would not be easy. So I made a jig align the bottom of the door with the one next to it.
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OK, I know this is not the most exciting cabinet build, but someone somewhere will have to do this sometime and they can remember all the fun I had here. Hang on, it’s almost done…
When I got the door panel mounted, I made a cabinet frame mock-up from scrap 1x6’s. I needed this to be able to measure how long the shelves would be. But this also me realize that putting the angle in the hinge also put an angle in the 2x4 hinge post. But this actually helps with giving more clearance from the shelf to the wall when the door is closed.
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It was also at this point as I had already measured and was just getting ready to cut the 1x6 vertical side panels, when the Supervisor came back out. She didn’t know why I cut the door panel to only 56” when it really needs to go all the way up. (I hate it when she is on a roll with good ideas). So, I re-measured and cut the 1x6 to a longer length. It’s OK, it all works out perfectly.
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It was at this moment that I realized that the hinge post was not aligned perfectly plumb with the wall. So, to answer the question I asked a couple days ago, this was the first time the whole cabinet was removed, adjusted and reinstalled. All the time realizing that I needed to move the screw holes a little so the screws won’t go back into the wrong holes. This includes the hinges to the wall and the door panel to the hinge post.
Once all was re-installed, I was able to measure the shelf lengths. Of course they were not all the same length. Couldn’t be that easy… Shelves were cut, glued and screwed in place, and then painted…
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Then the cabinet was mounted to the door panel and tightened in place. Then the door couldn’t close at all. So the shelves had to be removed so the door panel could come off for some more adjustments to the hinge post. Then the shelves were re-installed. Then the top filler panel was installed.
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I decided to make the top panel a completely separate panel with a 1/8” gap to match the two separate doors on the right.
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I added the handle and magnetic latches at the top and bottom to finish
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And this project can be stamped “Almost Done”. All that is needed is…
- Install the shelf bars to hold everything on the shelves,
- Finish the bottom closure panel door and
- Provide vent hole in the upper panel for the water heater ventilation
- Re-hang all the cleaning stuff that came out of there.
- Install the missing door panel piece at the top. Other than those…
I'm glad Mrs. Wingnut help guide my design to a nicer result.
Thanks for taking time out of your day to ride with me through this next step in the Hideout.
Now, Go Forth and Build!