Salt Life Hideout
- Thread starter Wingnut65
- Start date
I know the gentleman who owns this bus in Ohio (Brad) and this is not original sealing wax red. The bus is a very rare model camper and very complete but it has been resprayed through the years. This bus is often referred to as the pink bus.
This is my bus and original paint Sealing Wax Red:
Stay original colors....original NEVER goes out of style and will hold more value.
That is one nice Bus you have, dirtylawnchair
. It seems I've admired it at Bulli Brigade before. I will have to check all the shots I've taken to find it. I love the stance. I will have to talk with you when I start to focus on dropping the suspension. For now, I know I have RGB's to work around in the rear.When I saw Brad's Bus, it is what I remember the color of our Bus. I have paperwork saying it is S.W.R., but it was not the same bright color as yours. I guess I have more research to do.
For now, patina will be the color of choice for me. But after I replace all the rusted pieces, it will really need to be repainted completely. But it would not be unheard of to repaint a newly completed project with a patina finish. I keep thinking back to this '37 Ford with a fiberglass body
343
Omph, I haven't really thought about a Corvair engine since there are so many great VW specific engines available now. I don't think this guy had an original 1600 cc engine in his ride.
344
If I would go away from VW, it probably would be a Porsche based engine, which for the most part are interchangeable.
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And for an Ofishal Hideout Bus Update...
The right front wheel is off!
It just took some creativity, a big gear puller, a dead blow hammer and a lot of persuasion.
VW-010
And all that persuasion and with the brake shoe frozen to the brake drum, they twisted pretty good in the process. No fears, its getting new shoes all around.
VW-011
The other wheels are soaking in PB Blaster.
.
The right front wheel is off!
It just took some creativity, a big gear puller, a dead blow hammer and a lot of persuasion.
VW-010
And all that persuasion and with the brake shoe frozen to the brake drum, they twisted pretty good in the process. No fears, its getting new shoes all around.
VW-011
The other wheels are soaking in PB Blaster.
.
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Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Some C-4 and a blasting cap might have popped that drum off a bit quicker, but I love the ingenuity using the spacers and wedges. There really isn't any slick trick to getting rusted drums off other than using brute force, is there?
Porsche power plant parts on a VW bus!?! Isn't that like putting racing slicks on a Prius?
I love the look of those buses, but I know squat about what it takes to make them scoot 'quick like a rabbit'.
Please take plenty of pics, walk us through what you do to the stock engine and why you do it; always enjoy learning about unfamiliar mechanicals from someone who's done it before and has done it right.
Porsche power plant parts on a VW bus!?! Isn't that like putting racing slicks on a Prius?
I love the look of those buses, but I know squat about what it takes to make them scoot 'quick like a rabbit'.
Please take plenty of pics, walk us through what you do to the stock engine and why you do it; always enjoy learning about unfamiliar mechanicals from someone who's done it before and has done it right.
Thanks, O, but the C4 was step number 6, after all else failed. And the idea of the wood wedges were to keep the puller from sliding off the curve of the wheel, again. You can see in the shot that the left side was getting close to the edge.
Rest assured that plenty of photos will be taken during the project. As for the stock engine, the focus right now is to get it to sound like a VW engine instead of a paperweight.
With a limited budget, the least expensive way to get it running is to rebuild what I have. I'm going to pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plugs to let it start soaking, unless I find something that works better. I grew up with this Bus and have helped rebuild the engine at least two other times. Now I will be channeling my Dad to recall how we actually did it. That and plenty of manuals and video's, I should be ready to go.
Slicks on a Prius is a stretch. A Porsche in a VW is at least keeping it in the same family. Ferdinand Porsche's fingerprints are all over the design of the Bus that evolved from the Beetle. From the decision for the flat-four air cooled engine to the swing axle rear suspension to the torsion bar front (and rear) suspensions. These are the same things found in early Porsches. As I write this, I just thought that maybe I should ask Jack if he has a spare engine collecting dust...
Rest assured that plenty of photos will be taken during the project. As for the stock engine, the focus right now is to get it to sound like a VW engine instead of a paperweight.
With a limited budget, the least expensive way to get it running is to rebuild what I have. I'm going to pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in the spark plugs to let it start soaking, unless I find something that works better. I grew up with this Bus and have helped rebuild the engine at least two other times. Now I will be channeling my Dad to recall how we actually did it. That and plenty of manuals and video's, I should be ready to go.Slicks on a Prius is a stretch. A Porsche in a VW is at least keeping it in the same family. Ferdinand Porsche's fingerprints are all over the design of the Bus that evolved from the Beetle. From the decision for the flat-four air cooled engine to the swing axle rear suspension to the torsion bar front (and rear) suspensions. These are the same things found in early Porsches. As I write this, I just thought that maybe I should ask Jack if he has a spare engine collecting dust...
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dirtylawnchair
Member
Check the "M" code plate behind the passenger seat back rest. It will have a color code on it.
BGR - Beige Grey / SR = Sealing Wax Red
I buffed mine with M3 compound and glaze. My red looked very close to yours when I got it. My BGR was already toast.
Buffed with glazing compund. That would explain alot. Your Bus looked exaclty like mine when I brought it home! I guess that is the image of the color that is in my memory. I will check my plate tonight. I also have a sticker below the plate with the colors noted. Thanks for posting your 'before shot'
VW-005
Update from my last post, I searched options for a good penetration oil and have ordered some Kroil. (link is to a special deal). I also want to try the acetone/AFT home brew that supposedly gets better results.
VW-005
Update from my last post, I searched options for a good penetration oil and have ordered some Kroil. (link is to a special deal). I also want to try the acetone/AFT home brew that supposedly gets better results.
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tinbender 66
Well-known member
Buffed with glazing compund. That would explain alot. Your Bus looked exaclty like mine when I brought it home! I guess that is the image of the color that is in my memory. I will check my plate tonight. I also have a sticker below the plate with the colors noted. Thanks for posting your 'before shot'
Update from my last post, I searched options for a good penetration oil and have ordered some Kroil. (link is to a special deal). I also want to try the acetone/AFT home brew that supposedly gets better results.
I like that shot. Perfect patina!
JCQuick
Well-known member
That is one nice Bus you have, dirtylawnchair
When I saw Brad's Bus, it is what I remember the color of our Bus. I have paperwork saying it is S.W.R., but it was not the same bright color as yours. I guess I have more research to do.
For now, patina will be the color of choice for me. But after I replace all the rusted pieces, it will really need to be repainted completely. But it would not be unheard of to repaint a newly completed project with a patina finish. I keep thinking back to this '37 Ford with a fiberglass body
[Omph, I haven't really thought about a Corvair engine since there are so many great VW specific engines available now. I don't think this guy had an original 1600 cc engine in his ride.
If I would go away from VW, it probably would be a Porsche based engine, which for the most part are interchangeable.
Thats Greg Urrutia's bus he does a lot of stuff with that thing beleive it or not thats a warmed up 1600 in that pic if my memory serves me right. You can find him on the ulitimate air cooled forum. Thats where the Horse power folks hang out
A type 1 engine can make an honest 150-170 reliable horse power if built right with the right parts
Thanks JCQ for the insight. I've always loves shots like this just to show that the old VW Bus does not have to be the slowpoke on the road that can't go over 55. I will have an engine that will be able to cruise at highway speeds, but I think 150 HP may be pushing it. At least the Finance Minister may object!
TB66, This was actually a year and a half before I brought it home. I just wished I had moved it into the garage 10 years before. It sure would have saved a lot of rust issues.
TB66, This was actually a year and a half before I brought it home. I just wished I had moved it into the garage 10 years before. It sure would have saved a lot of rust issues.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
It broke because you didn't use the METRIC breaker bar! lol
shopnut, there was about 4' extra leverage at the time, but I think I like the 'gorilla arms' idea for added pressure.
O, Darn, you may be right. Lets see, a 19 mm drive with a 455 mm handle and a 170 pound gorilla... Do gorillas come in metric?
Welcome to GJ, Kev55in and thanks for stopping by. There is plenty of creative storage ideas here in the Hideout.
O, Darn, you may be right. Lets see, a 19 mm drive with a 455 mm handle and a 170 pound gorilla... Do gorillas come in metric?
Welcome to GJ, Kev55in and thanks for stopping by. There is plenty of creative storage ideas here in the Hideout.
Looks like a shortage of penetrating oil and patience
Or maybe an air impact wrench!
JCQuick
Well-known member
Progress slowed on Saturday after the 3/4" breaker bar did.
Let me guess rear axle nut
nope that wont work ^^^ Dang Wingnut65, you must have gorilla arms (or a really long cheater pipe to slip on there!)
Let me guess rear axle nut
We have a couple WINNERS!
VW-013
Congrats, JCQuick. That is a voice of experience.
And, Shoottx, I soaked it with PB Blaster, Brake Fluid and then the home brew of Acetone and ATF. Still nothing. I did buy a 1/2" to 3/4" drive converter to try the socket on my impact gun. But I'm afraid I might just split the socket (non-impact). Next step of a little heat. I've also ordered some Kroil to see if that works like it says it should.
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JCQuick
Well-known member
nope son That thing is supposed to be on that hard. We have atool at the race shop that was made out of 1-5/8" cm tubing 5ft long with a 46MM on 1 end and a 36MM on the other.
This is what I use at home it works its an OLD Craftsman 3/4" breaker bar and an old jack handle. It has served me well for many years.
But you are ina pickle cause you can't set the bus on the ground and apply the brakes and that makes its a biger deal
This is what I use at home it works its an OLD Craftsman 3/4" breaker bar and an old jack handle. It has served me well for many years.
But you are ina pickle cause you can't set the bus on the ground and apply the brakes and that makes its a biger deal
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HOTFR8
Banned
Just realised I have never posted on this topic yet I always find something interesting to read.
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Yes, the 170 pound Gorilla is the METRIC equivalent of 77.11 Kilos. lol
1152.4 Nm of torque I figure if the lever arm was 1.524m (5 feet)
Wingnut65, it's OK to bust a bar over a nut, but it's a whole lot worse to 'Bust A Nut Over A Bar'!
1152.4 Nm of torque I figure if the lever arm was 1.524m (5 feet)
Wingnut65, it's OK to bust a bar over a nut, but it's a whole lot worse to 'Bust A Nut Over A Bar'!
JCQ, A welded breaker bar would be perfect. My Dad had the 3/4" breaker bar and three large sockets that were only used for the Bus. I found the 46 mm to come in handy. I have the 4' cast iron sprinkler pipe that worked too well on the bar. My neighbor offered his t-bar and I think I will give it a try.
When I couldn't get leverage, I did have to put the back wheels back on the Bus, fill them with air and set the bus down on chocks. That gave me leverage and resistance to break one side. The other side is just being ornery.
Welcome to the Salt Life Hideout, Simon. Glad you stopped by and I hope some of the ideas that I stole and made them work for me, can offer you some ideas as well. I've enjoyed seeing how your down under shop project Down Under! That concrete really turned our nice.
Thanks Omph for your knowledge and mathematical skills. You are right on the money for the moment arm. And as I was sitting over the extension bar, I was being very careful not to do either suggestion, but the lesser did prevail.
When I couldn't get leverage, I did have to put the back wheels back on the Bus, fill them with air and set the bus down on chocks. That gave me leverage and resistance to break one side. The other side is just being ornery.
Welcome to the Salt Life Hideout, Simon. Glad you stopped by and I hope some of the ideas that I stole and made them work for me, can offer you some ideas as well. I've enjoyed seeing how your down under shop project Down Under!
That concrete really turned our nice.Thanks Omph for your knowledge and mathematical skills. You are right on the money for the moment arm. And as I was sitting over the extension bar, I was being very careful not to do either suggestion, but the lesser did prevail.
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chris bsopke
Active member
Might be a daft suggestion as its 20 years since I worked on air cooled dubs ( and i cant remember what i did last week these days )but is it a left hand thread that side Cause if it is you ain't ever going to undo it that way .
Cheers Chris
Ps the offer to restore and road test for you is still there just ship the bus over to the uk
Cheers Chris
Ps the offer to restore and road test for you is still there just ship the bus over to the uk
Thanks Chris for the offer, but the ball is rolling on the rebuild. I've want to get a good start so I can get the parts I know I need at the big local VW show coming up next month.
On the nuts, I had the same thought. But, according to the How-To books, it is only the left front that has the left hand thread nuts. Both the rears have right hand
On the nuts, I had the same thought. But, according to the How-To books, it is only the left front that has the left hand thread nuts. Both the rears have right hand
Red Leader
Well-known member
Nice to see you tearing into the bus. It should make a great winter project.
Oh heck, you guys even have winter?
We just had our first snow the other day
Oh heck, you guys even have winter?
We just had our first snow the other day
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
Try some 'metallurgical coitus interruptus' on the male and female threads. Take about a 2 foot piece of flat stock with a squared off end (you might have to bevel the end to clear the wheel rim) and lay the end flush onto a flat of the nut. Use a 3 pound hand sledge to give the other end of the bar several solid whacks. Move the bar end to several other flats and repeat whacks. The idea is that the impacts momentarily 'deform' the nut's inner diameter thus (I love that word) breaking the mechanical/corrosion bond between the male and female threads, ergo (I love that word too - lol) the term 'metallurgical coitus interruptus'. I learned that technique many years ago from a crusty old drunk of a MCPO in charge of the engine room I slaved in for my Uncle Sam as a Machinist Mate. We had some humongous nuts on the steam turbines' casing studs. We used a MUCH bigger sledge and bar in that case! Oh, by the by, we found out that swearing at it does indeed help loosen tight nuts. 
Take about a 2 foot piece of flat stock with a squared off end (you might have to bevel the end to clear the wheel rim) and lay the end flush onto a flat of the nut. Use a 3 pound hand sledge to give the other end of the bar several solid whacks. Move the bar end to several other flats and repeat whacks. The idea is that the impacts momentarily 'deform' the nut's inner diameter thus (I love that word) breaking the mechanical/corrosion bond between the male and female threads, ergo (I love that word too - lol) the term 'metallurgical coitus interruptus'. I learned that technique many years ago from a crusty old drunk of a MCPO in charge of the engine room I slaved in for my Uncle Sam as a Machinist Mate. We had some humongous nuts on the steam turbines' casing studs. We used a MUCH bigger sledge and bar in that case! Oh, by the by, we found out that swearing at it does indeed help loosen tight nuts. Yes Dave, the ball has started rolling for the Bus. It has hit a little flat spot while a big deadline at work brings stuff home at night to get done. That and it allows more time for the stubborn nut to soak. And, Yes, we do have nice Winter mornings. Could start in the low 30's or high 20's, but it usually crawls up into the 50's by mid afternoon. And it doesn't take too long for our snow to melt off. (Yes, we had flurries 2 years ago). Maybe that is why our population increases so much over the Winter months.
Thanks, Omph for enlightening me on some tricks from an old hat. I am learning new vocabulary every day. I will give the sledge-n-flat-bar method a try since I have not purchased an Ofishal VW Axle Nut Removal Whacker Tool...
VW-014
It is probably about 1/2" thick steel that is designed to slip over the nut and wail on the other end with a hammer, thus loosening the nut. I did receive my order of Kroil last night (Kroil is another new word around here). Soaked the nut pretty good and I will spray it again tonight.
Thanks, Omph for enlightening me on some tricks from an old hat. I am learning new vocabulary every day.
I will give the sledge-n-flat-bar method a try since I have not purchased an Ofishal VW Axle Nut Removal Whacker Tool...
VW-014
It is probably about 1/2" thick steel that is designed to slip over the nut and wail on the other end with a hammer, thus loosening the nut. I did receive my order of Kroil last night (Kroil is another new word around here). Soaked the nut pretty good and I will spray it again tonight.
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Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
GO4IT! That same MCPO also 'encouraged' our sledging efforts with the phrase -
"DON'T MAKE LOVE TO THE %&$&#^$*#&%& NUT, - - - HIT THE G$* D(#(% F*%*%)$(# THING!!!"
"DON'T MAKE LOVE TO THE %&$&#^$*#&%& NUT, - - - HIT THE G$* D(#(% F*%*%)$(# THING!!!"
******
***dittle fart around
Well-known member
Progress slowed on Saturday after the 3/4" breaker bar did.
Did that 3 times. After the second one the kid at Sears keep a breaker bar under the counter for me.
What worked was a 4 foot chunk of unistrut. Slipped it over the breaker bar and past the nut. It kinda supported the working end of the breaker bar. The torque on the axle nuts should be 250 ftlbs. I bought a torque wrench that went to 250 ftlbs for $100, torqued those babies down and immediately returned the torque wrench and got my money back.
chris bsopke
Active member
One other thought Jeff is to make sure you have all of the split pin out of the nut and drive shaft as the smallest bit left in there could be causing th e undoing problems .
Cheers Chris
Cheers Chris
"DON'T MAKE LOVE TO THE %&$&#^$*#&%& NUT, - - - HIT THE G$* D(#(% F*%*%)$(# THING!!!"
***
Those words work as a warm up, then can be rearranged to explain the pain in your hand from a misplaced whack or the nature of the broken part from the exuberance with the sledge.
Dad was never in the Navy, he imparted a similar vocabulary to all
Mat Mobile
Well-known member
Anytime I get to a task that needs to be done with a specific tool (VW strut nut socket, REALLY long screwdriver, 3/4" to 1/2" socket adapter) on one of my vehicles. I fuss and cuss and work on that damn task with what I got, and then go buy the special tool for the next time. Boy is it easier the next time around with the right tool. I consider it an investment.
And, no offense, but I could never wait 3 days for penetrating fluid. I know you're not in a rush and letting in soak is a good idea but up here in Canada, you ALWAYS have rust. If I had to wait 3 days for each nut... I'd never get anything done! Let's just say I developped techniques through a LOT of trial and error.
BTW, the garage is looking great! I'm always following your progress.
Ompha, That "making love to the nut" comment is great. I will use it on my brother-in-laws for sure...
And, no offense, but I could never wait 3 days for penetrating fluid. I know you're not in a rush and letting in soak is a good idea but up here in Canada, you ALWAYS have rust. If I had to wait 3 days for each nut... I'd never get anything done! Let's just say I developped techniques through a LOT of trial and error.
BTW, the garage is looking great! I'm always following your progress.
Ompha, That "making love to the nut" comment is great. I will use it on my brother-in-laws for sure...
Omphaloskeptic
Well-known member
'Sage advice' is worth repeating! lol
dfa, I hadn't thought about the unistrut over the breaker bar. My 4' piece started to bend when I used it to brace the right rear wheel. Might also on the bar.
Chris, no fears here on the pin... Right nut had an 8d nail bent over for a pin and the left pin was missing.
Mat, the first time is always the improvise before getting the right tool. And the 3-day soak is due to a family wedding that I am out of town for. Otherwise, it would be just an overnight soak. BTW, thanks for jumping in at the Hideout.
Mike and Omph Thanks again for more good advice.
Chris, no fears here on the pin... Right nut had an 8d nail bent over for a pin and the left pin was missing.
Mat, the first time is always the improvise before getting the right tool. And the 3-day soak is due to a family wedding that I am out of town for. Otherwise, it would be just an overnight soak. BTW, thanks for jumping in at the Hideout.
Mike and Omph Thanks again for more good advice.
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JCQuick
Well-known member
it was nice to meet you yesterday at the Bugjam Jeff sorry i didn't have more time to spend. its been a long time since I've worked a show like that and man was that a long day
Thanks, JCQ. It was great to meet another GJ Member. The Bug Jam was a great show and I'm glad you had a busy day of sales. With an assortment like that, you had everything, except what I was looking for. Since nobody had it, I will have to resort to the torch for a little heat, or mail-order the wrench. Thanks for taking a few minutes to talk. Now I understand where the 'Quick' comes from in JCQ.
On Saturday, I went to Ft Desoto for Bulli Brigade 19 and bumped into dirtylawnchair. He brought a caravan of split-window buses to the show. Hope the tire issue was easy to resolve. Hopefully I can get my bus to the show next year. A Goal has been set!
Wow, I'm thrilled at meeting three GJ members in one week, counting IGO2XS last week. Not sure how I can top that until an Ofishal GJ Shin-Dig...
On Saturday, I went to Ft Desoto for Bulli Brigade 19 and bumped into dirtylawnchair. He brought a caravan of split-window buses to the show. Hope the tire issue was easy to resolve. Hopefully I can get my bus to the show next year. A Goal has been set!
Wow, I'm thrilled at meeting three GJ members in one week, counting IGO2XS last week. Not sure how I can top that until an Ofishal GJ Shin-Dig...
IGO2XS
Well-known member
VW Toaster
My wife just saw this on Pinterest and I thought of you. Apparently all the VW owners are getting these toasters.
My wife just saw this on Pinterest and I thought of you. Apparently all the VW owners are getting these toasters.
JCQuick
Well-known member
Re: VW Toaster
we need a link to that
My wife just saw this on Pinterest and I thought of you. Apparently all the VW owners are getting these toasters.
we need a link to that
IGO2XS
Well-known member
Re: VW Toaster
google VW minibus toaster. apparently these were from VW Japan.
we need a link to that
google VW minibus toaster. apparently these were from VW Japan.
don long
Well-known member
Hey Jeff
Looks like you are having fun with the bus
I envy you working on the VW and not the garage
I hope to be there soon I'm tired of construction but I'm almost done
Don
Looks like you are having fun with the bus
I envy you working on the VW and not the garage
I hope to be there soon I'm tired of construction but I'm almost done
Don
I hear ya, Don. Construction can get old very easily. But the bright side is the masterpiece that you are creating. Keep doing what you are doing and let us dream.
I haven't had a chance to get back in the garage since the middle of November. We went to Chicago, South Bend and Indy for Thanksgiving week and since then we have been 2 weeks behind schedule for Christmas planning and decorating. The garage became the drop zone for all the boxes and now all the removed yard decorations. I hope to have them all packed away this week so I can break out some new tools and get back on the Bus.
IGO2XS and JCQuick, those toasters are cool, but definitely not in my budget. Supposedly, there were offered by Japanese VW dealers to their customers when they had service done. The cheapest that I can find is around $300. I guess I can always keep it on my Wish List in case I win the Lotto! Thanks for posting Mark!
I haven't had a chance to get back in the garage since the middle of November. We went to Chicago, South Bend and Indy for Thanksgiving week and since then we have been 2 weeks behind schedule for Christmas planning and decorating. The garage became the drop zone for all the boxes and now all the removed yard decorations. I hope to have them all packed away this week so I can break out some new tools and get back on the Bus.
IGO2XS and JCQuick, those toasters are cool, but definitely not in my budget. Supposedly, there were offered by Japanese VW dealers to their customers when they had service done. The cheapest that I can find is around $300. I guess I can always keep it on my Wish List in case I win the Lotto! Thanks for posting Mark!