Saylor Beall Air Compressor VT-735-80

[JJOrzech]

Anyone on here sell parts for Saylor Beall Air Compressors? I am looking for the following parts:
- belt guard
- magnetic starter
- pressure switch (178 psi)
- I intend on running a 5HP Single Phase 1725 RPM motor which means I'll need an 8.2" pulley (if my math is right) as original motor was a 1750 RPM. Will also need a belt for the smaller pulley.
- I need the valve access tool
- the tool used to press motor away from pump to tighten belt.
- I also would like a gallon of the correct Saylor Beall paint
- replacement labels.

I also need a wiring diagram to figure out how to wire the low oil cutoff and pressure switch and motor.

Lastly, Can anyone tell me what the copper line running from bottom of tank to top of tank is for? I assumed the bottom of tank is where the drain should be.

 

[JJOrzech]

I apologize for images coming up sideways, no idea why they did that?? I have cleaned the tank since these pictures were taken, I added a pressure guage and plumbed the left side fitting with a shut off valve and hose connection and purchases a OEM service valve. I unbolted the belt guard but it is rusted together and I have been unable to pull it apart and will probably end up destroying it taking it off. What is a fair price to sell the used 3 Phase motor for? I would like to use the sale proceeds towards the purchase of the single phase unit

 

[48548]

Can you just weld up the rust spots on the belt guard?

 

[JJOrzech]

Can you just weld up the rust spots on the belt guard?

its not the rust im worried about its getting it apart so I can remove the 3 phase motor. It rusted together pretty solid and the few places where I have tried to pull it part its destroying the seam so in all likely hood I will end up destroying the guard in the process of taking it off

 

[JJOrzech]

Will this work for the Mag Starter?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ATCCYXK/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[md21722]

You do not need to change the motor sheave (pulley). With all the parts this one needs you may be better off buying a new one. How is the tank inside?

 

[JJOrzech]

You do not need to change the motor sheave (pulley). With all the parts this one needs you may be better off buying a new one. How is the tank inside?

I like to restore things and this one has a good pump so I dont see a problem with fixing up the smaller stuff, even the belt guard is not a must have but it is a safety issue and would like to replace due to that fact. largest cost will be the motor but I have found several for about $400-450. I would just like to give this 14 year old compressor a second life so to speak. I was also inspired by johnathons thread. (He is a little more OCD than me though)

 

[JJOrzech]

You do not need to change the motor sheave (pulley). With all the parts this one needs you may be better off buying a new one. How is the tank inside?

no idea how to check the inside of the tank. I plan on removing the pump, motor and then sanding/grinding down the entire tank and coating in POR-15 before reassembly.

 

[6PTsocket]

As Saylor Beall is still very much in business and air conpressor suppliers sell parts, as well. Why are you having parts problems? The new 5 hp DeWalts even use a Saylor Beall pump. It says so in the DeWalt parts list. Saylor Bealle should be able to answer your questions, supply parts, info on switching to single phase and supply a manual.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[JJOrzech]

As Saylor Beall is still very much in business and air conpressor suppliers sell parts, as well. Why are you having parts problems? The new 5 hp DeWalts even use a Saylor Beall pump. It says so in the DeWalt parts list. Saylor Bealle should be able to answer your questions, supply parts, info on switching to single phase and supply a manual.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I did contact Saylor Beall and they sent me to a local vendor who supplies parts but he was not interested in selling me any parts and was focused on selling me a new unit. I dont want a new unit, I want to repair this one and this one was working fine in the shop I bought it from and just need to switch it over to run in my garage. So needless to say that gentleman was less than helpful.

 

[JJOrzech]

He also told me that the CHEAPEST motor I could get for it was $682 + shipping when I know that I can get one much cheaper.

 

[md21722]

You could always call Saylor Beall back and ask for another rep in your area. Based on your parts list I would check the tank before proceeding. It sounds like you want to put money rather than thought into this. I wouldn't put $1,000 into this without knowing the tank health.

 

[JJOrzech]

You could always call Saylor Beall back and ask for another rep in your area. Based on your parts list I would check the tank before proceeding. It sounds like you want to put money rather than thought into this. I wouldn't put $1,000 into this without knowing the tank health.

He was the only one in the area. This is a fully funtional compressor, I watched it running in the shop, it was set up differently than one would set it up in house and they kept a bunch of parts that were on it which is why i got it for the price I did. If it makes everyone feel better I will check the integrity of the tank but other than smacking on it with a hammer I dont know how else to check it. It seems solid. Is there a proven method for checking out the inside of the tank that doesnt involve welding? I dont want to cut this thing open and have to weld it back up again. I am more than happy to take any precaution before spending $450 on a motor and another $60 on a mag starter and so forth. Is there a link or a video that shows me how to do what you are asking?

Thanks!

 

[JJOrzech]

This is something the sales rep kept saying! "Saylor Beall is the best compressor you can buy, they are the cadillac of compressors and will last you the rest of your life." But in the same breath, "This compressor is 14 years old and its always cheaper to buy a new one than rebuild one" Isn't that a contradictory in terms? Also this doesnt need rebuilt as it works, it just needs to be retrofitted to work in a home garage. I really do appreciate everyone's input but it seems like Saylor Beall would just rather sell a new compressor than help repair/restore one that is 14 years old.

 

[JJOrzech]

Also since I know that the pump is good couldnt I just replace the tank if it were to fail? The most expensive part of the air compressor is the pump right?

 

[6PTsocket]

He was the only one in the area. This is a fully funtional compressor, I watched it running in the shop, it was set up differently than one would set it up in house and they kept a bunch of parts that were on it which is why i got it for the price I did. If it makes everyone feel better I will check the integrity of the tank but other than smacking on it with a hammer I dont know how else to check it. It seems solid. Is there a proven method for checking out the inside of the tank that doesnt involve welding? I dont want to cut this thing open and have to weld it back up again. I am more than happy to take any precaution before spending $450 on a motor and another $60 on a mag starter and so forth. Is there a link or a video that shows me how to do what you are asking?

Thanks!

Welding on a tank is a no no unless you are a welder certified for pressure vessels. The procedure is to get the tank re certified. They have a safe place to pressurize it beyond where you would ever use it, to see if it blows. There should be a date on the tank for when it was tested by the manufacturer. See how old it is. I know you can't run it now but it would be good to see how bad the rust is when it is drained. It doesn't sound like you need to see a dealer in person. Get a parts list, go on line or get on the phone. Another dealer might be more helpful. It doesn't matter where he is. Also try SB customer service again and tell them the dealer they suggested was no help and you would be grateful if they could answer your questions. I find these big companies you often get different people and eventually can luck out and get somebody to help you. Your first call probably only landed a secratary with a dealer list. If you press, they may pass you on to engineering or tech support.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[JJOrzech]

ok I think I understand what yall are saying. BEFORE dumping money into it, get the AIR Tank re-certified to ensure it is structurally sound.

 

[JJOrzech]

Welding on a tank is a no no unless you are a welder certified for pressure vessels. The procedure is to get the tank re certified. They have a safe place to pressurize it beyond where you would ever use it, to see if it blows. There should be a date on the tank for when it was tested by the manufacturer. See how old it is. I know you can't run it now but it would be good to see how bad the rust is when it is drained. It doesn't sound like you need to see a dealer in person. Get a parts list, go on line or get on the phone. Another dealer might be more helpful. It doesn't matter where he is. Also try SB customer service again and tell them the dealer they suggested was no help and you would be grateful if they could answer your questions. I find these big companies you often get different people and eventually can luck out and get somebody to help you. Your first call probably only landed a secratary with a dealer list. If you press, they may pass you on to engineering or tech support.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

thank you this is very helpful! I will work on getting the tank re-certified and then buying the parts I need to get it up and running in the garage! I have two classic cars that I am working on and would really like to get this up and running. I am tiring of using hand tools...LOL

 

[Marctrees]

By far, most, basically all, of the parts you need are not specific at all to your compressor, but generic for very many different compressors.

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

JJO - CHILL ......... Really probably OCD about the tank condition, that's one helluva nice compressor.

Just replace/ fix if some part does not work, and use it till problems surface, probably not in your lifetime. Marc

 

[Marctrees]

Re certify?

What is the date on the welded on label?

From what I see in the photos, totally over worry.

Do whatever YOU need to do to sleep at night, I'd sleep like a Baby w what I see here.

Marc

 

[JJOrzech]

It's a 2003 according to the plate that is welded on.

 

[JJOrzech]

Here are some photos after I did a quick wash and replaced the service valve and plumbed in the quick connect and added the pressure gauge.

 

[JJOrzech]

Wth why do photos keep coming up side ways?

 

[EOC_Jason]

If you take a picture with your phone upright (pic is taller than wide) I think the forum will auto-rotate it. If you take a picture sideways with your phone then it leaves it alone...

The copper line running to the bottom is probably for a pneumatic auto-drain. Assuming it's functioning and your tank is from 2003 I wouldn't worry about testing said tank, I'm sure it's in pretty good shape.

If your local rep isn't helpful, again I would call saylor beall and find a different one. Even if they have to ship you stuff I'm sure there are others out there that would be more than willing to help. SB is the only place you are going to get that color paint unless you have a good flat piece you can take to the paint store to have them color-match.

You can get a magnetic starter pretty much anywhere, they are sized according to the motor amps...

Valve tool is saylor beall too, unless you want to fab your own (a few people have, not impossible).

 

[thecj3man]

If your local rep isn't helpful, again I would call saylor beall and find a different one. Even if they have to ship you stuff I'm sure there are others out there that would be more than willing to help.

When the flywheel on my 707 got busted I tried for 2 weeks to get one through a semi-local dealer. I finally had SB find another dealer who was even closer that happened to have a used flywheel in his parts pile.

 

[md21722]

After re-reading some of these posts & seeing more pictures, I would agree that if the tank has a functioning auto drain system that you can skip checking the tank. If you saw it running at the shop, you may have noticed if it worked or didn't. Short of getting it completely recertified you can remove some of the big fittings and look inside. If there is heavy rust on the bottom...

Why do you need a new pressure switch if you saw it running and working at the shop? There is no difference in the pressure switch going from single to three phase since the magnetic starter takes care of it.

Baldor L1410/L1430 motors show up on eBay routinely from motor wholesalers for $300-350.

Square D definite purpose magnetic starters, also on eBay, are pretty popular on this forum. They run about $140-150. I dunno, but I prefer Mexico to China for electrical stuff.

The Saylor Beall belt guard is probably going to cost a couple hundred bucks. Even generic ones cost at least $100.

You do not need a wiring diagram. The low oil pressure switch goes in series with the pressure switch.

You do not need a special tool to change the belts. You can just roll them on. Getting the sheave lined up with the flywheel is critical for good belt life. If you need new belts you can get them at any auto parts store. If the part numbers are worn off, you can bring an old belt down to NAPA and they can measure it and sell you the correct ones.

 

[JJOrzech]

After re-reading some of these posts & seeing more pictures, I would agree that if the tank has a functioning auto drain system that you can skip checking the tank. If you saw it running at the shop, you may have noticed if it worked or didn't. Short of getting it completely recertified you can remove some of the big fittings and look inside. If there is heavy rust on the bottom...

Why do you need a new pressure switch if you saw it running and working at the shop? There is no difference in the pressure switch going from single to three phase since the magnetic starter takes care of it. The Shop kept the pressure switch that was on it which is why I need another one because I know it is required to shut off the pump once the tank reaches 175 PSI

Baldor L1410/L1430 motors show up on eBay routinely from motor wholesalers for $300-350. The L1410 was the one I was looking at on eBay but through reading a BUNCH of articles it seemed that I needed to change the Sheave to compensate for the difference in RPM

Square D definite purpose magnetic starters, also on eBay, are pretty popular on this forum. They run about $140-150. I dunno, but I prefer Mexico to China for electrical stuff. Good, that is the one that I am watching right now...as long as its rated for 5HP and 220 I should be good correct?

The Saylor Beall belt guard is probably going to cost a couple hundred bucks. Even generic ones cost at least $100. it doesn't HAVE to be Saylor Beall as long as it bolts up and functions as intended.That's fine, its my own stupidity, as I was moving the compressor I lost control and it smacked up again the wall in the garage and dented the cover. but in process of trying to remove it to bang out the dent I realized that the two halves are rusted together. I have thought about running it without the guard but that just seems irresponsible.

You do not need a wiring diagram. The low oil pressure switch goes in series with the pressure switch. Since they kept the pressure switch I do not know where it is wired too in order to wire the low oil cut off.

You do not need a special tool to change the belts. You can just roll them on. Getting the sheave lined up with the flywheel is critical for good belt life. If you need new belts you can get them at any auto parts store. If the part numbers are worn off, you can bring an old belt down to NAPA and they can measure it and sell you the correct ones.

so if I just mark on the mounting location the position of the current motor and mount up the Baldor L1410 then the pulley will still be in the same location?

 

[EOC_Jason]

Just use a big carpenter square / straight edge to align your new motor / pulley to the flywheel. It's not hard...

You can either guesstimate where to space the motor and roll the belt(s) on, might take a couple tries. Or you can use a second set of hands and a prybar or 2x4... I've also seen someone come up with their own spacing device using a couple pieces of wood and some all-thread and nuts. It's probably in the "show your compressor" thread...

 

[md21722]

Since motor frames are standardized taking note of the existing sheave location should be fine.

You do not need to change the sheave since both old and new motors are 1750RPM. Sheave changes are needed when going between 3450 and 1750 RPM.

You can get a pressure switch off eBay too. Key point is to get one with an unloader in the right spot and that is set for 175PSI.

Call Pacific Air Compressors in Portland and they can hook you up on any parts you need.

They are a brick and mortar shop that also does eBay sales. But you are better off going with one of the motor wholesalers for the motor and they will probably tell you the same.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

JJ...Download your manual here... http://www.saylor-beall.com/manuals/

Regarding the motor sheave, the existing motor is 1750 RPM, the L1410 / 1430 are 1725 RPM, so no need to change.

The design of the SB belt guard is that the outside section fits inside the inner section and it's a tight fit. Shoot some Kroil all around the perimeter and let it soak overnight then try sliding a knife blade between them to break them apart.

You need to tension the new belts correctly as belts stretch with time and use. Google 'V-belt tensioning jack' for the tool to spread the sheaves apart. You should also pick up a belt tension gauge to make it a little more accurate, although not mandatory. Be very sure both sheaves are inline with each other...be patient and persistent.

 

[JJOrzech]

What is the difference between the L1410T and the L1430T motors? Is one better than the other?

 

[EOC_Jason]

One says "Open" enclosure, other said "ODTF" and has a drip cover. One has a lower power factor and pulls a few more amps.

 

[JJOrzech]

One says "Open" enclosure, other said "ODTF" and has a drip cover. One has a lower power factor and pulls a few more amps.

Which one would you go with? I am pulling the sheaves and belt guard off this weekend and Havings sheaves cleaned and powder coated. Figure would be the best time to do it. Want to get motor ordered so I can put it on when I get sheaves back.

 

[EOC_Jason]

I would go with the L1430T as it has the fan on the back for better cooling...

 

[Trey T]

What a BEAST! congrats on the new compressor. Take more pics when it's up and running.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

What is the difference between the L1410T and the L1430T motors? Is one better than the other?

To be real honest, I've used both on compressors and both work well. You can compare stats on Baldor's site. Torque specs are close, the 1410 weighs a little more and has a $79.00 higher MSRP. The power factor is better on the 1430, so all in all, whichever one you can buy cheaper (usually the 1430) would be the way to go.

 

[ffast65]

nice compressor... As others said, pressure switch is same and Pacific is where I bought my champion parts.. congrats and good luck

 

[MacMcMacmac]

I'd pull the fitting off of the bottom of the tank and check to see the drain is not clogged with rust, and that the auto-drain has been doing it's job. In my experience, people put too much faith in these, and the air piston types have not proven to be totally reliable in the field. I drained about 30 gallons of water out of the instrument air compressor at work because of this. Check the lines too, it doesn't take much to plug a 1/4" line.